Where to set SWG at

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You should never have told me about the owners manual. Now that Im reading it, I have more questions! It says in the manual that the ideal levels for FC is 1.0 - 3.0, with CYA 30-50. Isnt that FC level awfully low?
 
You should have all documentation from all your equipment. Including that it was registered for warranty purposes. If you do not, contact the pool builder.
 
carnivalday said:
You should never have told me about the owners manual. Now that Im reading it, I have more questions! It says in the manual that the ideal levels for FC is 1.0 - 3.0, with CYA 30-50. Isnt that FC level awfully low?
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One caveat about the manufacturer's owners manual. Ignore the chemistry discussion. They have no clue about proper water chemistry.
 
Hmm, dont have any warranty info. I just texted him and asked him. Thanks for that.

Ignore manual chemistry numbers....check.
 
carnivalday said:
the ideal levels for FC is 1.0 - 3.0, with CYA 30-50. Isnt that FC level awfully low?
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Yep! That is the bad thing about "outdated" levels. Some pool products have not been re-written since the stone age aka before the CYA/FC ratio was found. CYA buffers the FC........................a pool with 0 CYA and a FC of 3 is MUCH harsher than a pool with a CYA of 30 and a FC of 7. TFP has science to back this up if you would like to do some DEEP reading. We have a section called the Deep End for things like this.

The pool industry is slowly catching up but some areas still need to work on their understanding. Of course they are slow to do it as it will cost them money due to lose of chemical sales.
 
I saw that section The Deep End. I looked at it briefly, and than ran out very quickly! Maybe one day, but Im not there yet.
 

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The cage does provide some UV protection as well as it having been SO cloudy in the *sunshine* state as of late. I am sure that has a lot to do with it. If nothing else it has given her plenty of time to play with her equipment and learn what is what and how it all works together!

Kim:kim:
 
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Rancho, no trees for shade. I have huge sycamores a hundred feet or so to the west, and get just a teensy bit of shade very late in the day. Otherwise is blaring sun (or used to be, I could have sworn I lived in the Sunshine State). Thats why I purposefully put the pool where I did, so it could get warm and toasty.
 
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So I got all excited this morning with the sun out, and supposed to get over 80 today. That didnt last long as it got cloudy quick, so I gave up on the solar heater. Did a couple of tests; FC is 10.5, down from 11.5 yesterday, so Im losing about 1 ppm a day. Ill keep the SWG off and test daily until I get down to a better level, so I can test pH. CYA down a smidge, from 30 to (Im guessing) around 25. I can just barely barely see the dot at 30. CC is .5 up from 0. Looks like I need to order some new Mad Scientist Chemicals here pretty shortly.
 
You will go through more regents as you learn your pool. After a year or so it will level out and you will not need to test as often. I can look at my pool and know when the pH is a little high (the water is kind of dull looking). I do the test to show me how much m.a. I need to add and call it good!
 
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(I know Im going to be sorry that Im asking this). In going thru this thread again, for the umpteenth time, it seems to me that my SWG, run at 100% for 24 hours produces a. .92 pounds of chlorine, b. 432 grams of chlorine, or c. 12 ppm chlorine. Allen's calculation for me works off of ppms. Is there a time when I will need to know the pounds or grams that it produces?
 
It is always good to record that data for future use. But your pool volume will not change, so the 12 ppm FC per day is a good one to work off of.
 
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I think Ill add those numbers on my spreadsheet just so I have them in case I ever need them. Thanks.
 
Jimrahbe said:
C,

A SWCG generates the same amount of chlorine no matter what speed the pump is running, as long as it is fast enough to turn on the flow switch..

The SWCG will make no chlorine if the pump is not running. So you can adjust the output of your SWCG by adjusting the % of output and/or the time the pump is allowed to run... 1 hour at 100% generates the same amount of chlorine as 10 hours at 10%..

Tell us what size SWCG you have and how long you normally run your pump and we can give you some numbers..

The SWCG has no brain. It just generates the amount of chlorine you tell it to make, no matter what is in the pool.. It is up to you to test and then tell the SWCG to increase or decrease its chlorine generation.

Thanks,

Jim R.
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What is easier on the SWG, to run it at 100% for a short amount of time, or to lower it and run it longer?
 
carnivalday said:
What is easier on the SWG, to run it at 100% for a short amount of time, or to lower it and run it longer?
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The SWCG could care less which you do. But as Saturn stated -- running the SWCG during the hours you have the pump running makes sense.
 
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