New plaster (Diamond Brite) startup

[KB_pool]

Hello,

I will hopefully be having my pool re-plastered with Diamond Brite soon. I researched the startup quite extensively and have a couple of questions, I would like to ask for opinions on:

1. My tap water is pH 7.2, TA 80 which seems quite desirable. I was planning to fill the pool with 2 hoses. The pool is 23K gal. Will it fill within 2 days, or should I help with 1 or 2 trucks of pool water (unknown quality)?

2. Research indicates I should use a 'good quality sequestrant' on day 1 or 2. Does this mean I need a metal sequestrant such as Natural Chemistry Metal FREE and a metal and mineral sequestrant such as Natural Chemistry Stain and Scale Control Pro Series. Would sequestering calcium result in pulling more calcium out of curing plaster and potentially decreasing its durability? I also noticed Natural Chemistry has Startup Magic which seems formulated for starting up a plaster, but that also sequesters calcium.

3. I have a SWG (not to be used int he first 28 days), so using Muratric Acid is preferable. Is there any point in using dry acid?

4. I need to stock up on chemicals. From what I read, new plaster results in increasing pH, TA and CH. Is this what really happens? Is adjusting chemicals once a day frequent enough?

5. SGM (the Diamond Brite manufacturer) recommends adjusting the CH to 200-400 on the third day. Will the CH be raising for some time potentially going over 400? Does sequestrant bring it down?

Thank you,

KB

 

[Flying Tivo]

You also need to test for CH of your fill water, that way you will know if you need to add and how much. What test kit are you using? Your fill water looks fine, do not truck in unknown water. I would not recommend any sequestering agents at all. The only thing you need in hand is Chlorine, Muriatic Acid(dry acid adds sulphites which hurt your SWG) and CYA. Aim for 350ppm CH and try to follow DB manufacturer recommendations as to keep your warranty. On your SWG you are correct, do not add salt until 30 days.

Fill out your signature with your pool info so we can help you better. Download the Poolmath app it is super helpful.

 

[kimkats]

Hi and welcome! You have come to the right place! I have a set of links for new plaster and a set of links for care after the plaster!

Here is the set of getting the best plaster job you can:
Ten Guidelines for Quality Pool Plaster Best one of all
All Plaster Finishes Should Last 20 Years
Not All Color Pigments are Good for Pools How to pick a good color for plaster.
A Plastering 'Watch List' | Professional Watershaping | Watershapes
Trouble Free Pool
Trouble Free Poo

Here is the set of link to help you care for the pool after the plaster is done:
Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

Trouble Free Pool

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

I know this is a LOT of info. Take you time and make sure to ask any and all questions you might have!

Kim

 

[KB_pool]

Felipe,

I used regular AquaCheck test strips to test my tap water. I was planning to go to Leslies to test the pool water. Is there a test for CH that you recommend?

Kim,

Thanks for the links. For the Muriatric acid, I have a galon of Acid Magic, which is supposed to not burn or have fumes. Looking at the label I cannot find any info what strength equivalent that is, and how it is made not to burn. Is it OK for pool use? I bought it in past to clean my salt cell, likely will need to buy regular Home Depot Muriatric acid.

KB

 

[ajw22]

Aquacheck test strips and pool store testing is totally unreliable.

We recommend the TF-100 Test Kits or the Taylor K-2006C. See Test Kits Compared. Getting the Speedstir Magnetic Stirrer makes testing easier and more accurate.

 

[Flying Tivo]

Yes you need a good test kit as Allen mentioned! Get it! You will never look back.

 

[kimkats]

I have no idea what that "magic" stuff is made of really but can guess it is mostly water from the sounds of it. You can use it. For Pool Math start with it being 10% and see if the level moves as much as Pool Math says it will. Adjust the % up or down depending on the results. Or you can save it to use on the cell and get regular m.a. for the overall pool work.

Kim

 

[jimim]

If it’s the no

Felipe,

I used regular AquaCheck test strips to test my tap water. I was planning to go to Leslies to test the pool water. Is there a test for CH that you recommend?

Kim,

Thanks for the links. For the Muriatric acid, I have a galon of Acid Magic, which is supposed to not burn or have fumes. Looking at the label I cannot find any info what strength equivalent that is, and how it is made not to burn. Is it OK for pool use? I bought it in past to clean my salt cell, likely will need to buy regular Home Depot Muriatric acid.

KB

if it’s the no burn stuff or smell I would assume it’s the lower 7 percent stuff. Lowe’s around me has the strong stuff so u don’t need to add as much.

I have Diamond Brite. When they washed my pool down before fill they did a very very very weak acid wash so I was adding acid like 3 times a day for 2 weeks and then 2 times a day for 2 weeks or so and then 1x day for rest of season to keep it in check. It climbed quick and daily.

Do like the other said. Get the test kit ASAP and get the speed stir so you take more error out of your mixing. Best money I spent. Throw the strips away and stay away from Leslie’s.