SWCG advice

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Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Bummer... :(

Are you sure you got the sch. 40 fittings? Stay away from DWV (Drain-Waste-Vent) stuff.
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The 2" pipe I got is schedule 40 DWV pipe. I figured it was fine if it was sch. 40. Although the leaks are both at the 1.5" end of the reducers so I don't think it is a problem with the 2" pipe. I think I just need to redo them and have more patience. The problem with this stuff is that you don't get easy "re-dos". Any advice is appreciated.
I'll attach a pic of where the leaks are located.




100116
 
One tip from me...when you buy fittings, always double or triple what you think you need. They're cheap, and if kept out of the sun, will last forever. Occasionally:rolleyes:, I make mistakes and having extra parts avoids a trip to HD with dirty hands in muddy pants and boots. I've accumulated so many extra PVC parts, I rarely need to run out for PVC stuff. Keep all your old parts and cut-offs too; they may come in handy when you need a short section of pipe or a fitting.

Looking forward to seeing the final install.
 
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
One tip from me...when you buy fittings, always double or triple what you think you need. They're cheap, and if kept out of the sun, will last forever. Occasionally:rolleyes:, I make mistakes and having extra parts avoids a trip to HD with dirty hands in muddy pants and boots. I've accumulated so many extra PVC parts, I rarely need to run out for PVC stuff. Keep all your old parts and cut-offs too; they may come in handy when you need a short section of pipe or a fitting.

Looking forward to seeing the final install.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'm a learn as you go type guy and this is no exception. I might be prone to a mistake once or twice a year myself. :) Seriously, I appreciate you taking the time to reply. I'm completely alone in the project - the help I get here on TFP is all I have. Tomorrow is a new day. I will get this working.
 
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Razorhog said:
Thanks, I'm a learn as you go type guy and this is no exception. I might be prone to a mistake once or twice a year myself. :) Seriously, I appreciate you taking the time to reply. I'm completely alone in the project - the help I get here on TFP is all I have. Tomorrow is a new day. I will get this working.
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Just curious, is there a reason you can't eliminate those 4 90's (that were allowing the inline chlorinator)?
100136
 
Razorhog said:
The 2" pipe I got is schedule 40 DWV pipe. I figured it was fine if it was sch. 40. Although the leaks are both at the 1.5" end of the reducers so I don't think it is a problem with the 2" pipe. I think I just need to redo them and have more patience. The problem with this stuff is that you don't get easy "re-dos". Any advice is appreciated.
I'll attach a pic of where the leaks are located.




View attachment 100116
Click to expand...

Razor,
There are two kinds of Sch 40 pipe. One is pressure pipe the other is DWV. Both are sch 40 but only pressure fittings are permitted by code for your service. Not that they won't work for most pools just they are not rated to the same pressures and most building codes will not approve them. Several 90's in this photo are DWV. You can tell the DWV by the enlarged end on the fittings. The pressure fittings are the same diameter for the entire fitting, not just the end. DWV fittings also do not have as deep of penetration on the joints.

Here's a tip for good PVC work. Use soapy water to fit up all the pieces and have each piece fully inserted. Then mark the edges of each fitting on the pipe. Also mark perpendicular to the edge. Then when you add the glue line up on the line and perpendicular mark. When you put glue on the joint it will invariably go in a little further. It can also twist some. This effect gets magnified at each fitting and will end up way out of square. Marking like this will make your work look very professional and you won't end up with stressed fittings that can be subject to vibration cracks. Also,, do the marking with a pencil not a magic marker. The magic marker will come off with the PVC primer.

I hope this helps.

Chris
 
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setsailsoon said:
Razor,
There are two kinds of Sch 40 pipe. One is pressure pipe the other is DWV. Both are sch 40 but only pressure fittings are permitted by code for your service. Not that they won't work for most pools just they are not rated to the same pressures and most building codes will not approve them. Several 90's in this photo are DWV. You can tell the DWV by the enlarged end on the fittings. The pressure fittings are the same diameter for the entire fitting, not just the end. DWV fittings also do not have as deep of penetration on the joints.

Here's a tip for good PVC work. Use soapy water to fit up all the pieces and have each piece fully inserted. Then mark the edges of each fitting on the pipe. Also mark perpendicular to the edge. Then when you add the glue line up on the line and perpendicular mark. When you put glue on the joint it will invariably go in a little further. It can also twist some. This effect gets magnified at each fitting and will end up way out of square. Marking like this will make your work look very professional and you won't end up with stressed fittings that can be subject to vibration cracks. Also,, do the marking with a pencil not a magic marker. The magic marker will come off with the PVC primer.

I hope this helps.

Chris
Click to expand...

Thank you for the tips! This stuff would have been great to know before I started, lol. Going to the plumbing supply store this morning.
 
splashpad said:
I was just trying to think of reducing your cramped excess pipe work :D Yes there will be 90's needed :)
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Well I went and measured, don't think the direct route will give me a long enough stretch for the SWG. It's 14 inches from the center of the multivalve pipe to the center of the return. After the 90s and reducers I won't have the required 11" of 2" pipe for the SWG. The distance after the 90 going towards the return is even shorter, like 10 inches. Ideas?

IMG_7792 (2).jpg
 
Mount the SWG vertical so the water flows up through the flow switch.

Straight out from pump, 90 up, mount SWG, 90 out towards return, 90 down, straight down to return pipe level, 90, connect to return.

This gets pipes clear of booster pump.
 
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According to the manual, you also need 6" of straight pipe before the SWG.

Its a one piece unit unit with the controller attached to the cell, so it may be a bit funky mounted vertically.

100173
 
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Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
According to the manual, you also need 6" of straight pipe before the SWG.

Its a one piece unit unit with the controller attached to the cell, so it may be a bit funky mounted vertically.

View attachment 100173
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The only directional mounting instructions in the user guide are:
"Unit must be mounted at a minimum horizontal distance of 5 ft (or more, if local codes require so) from the inside walls of the swimming pool." ((aka 5' away from the pool)

I know that is not the point here. ;)

The mounting adapters do not work with this cell (per descriptions)
 

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