No pressure after sand replacement

So your saying the 1/2 doesnt mean its allowing flow from both sides? The other direction says off if i rotate 180.
**deleted incorrect info for this valve/diverter**

Do you get water to the pump if you change the handle to either Port 1 or Port 2?
 
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James was referring to the directional valve before the pump. With other valves, the handle end is open. But we must be missing something obvious here. Doesn't make sense to not get ANY water movement if all you did was change sand after vacuuming. Let's re-cap:
1. You said you vacuumed it all out THEN put fresh sand in it. Then you tried to to a backwash and got no pressure. Is that the correct sequence of events? Just want to confirm the timeline.
2. When you vacuumed, how bad was the pool at opening? Lots of leaves & junk? Any chance you got yourself a clump of junk in that suction line (clog)? You said you tried a vacuum, but perhaps that wasn't strong enough. What about water? Have you tried inserting a garden hose into the pump "inlet" hole, wrap the hose tightly with a wrag, and push water backwards towards the pool? If you have a water blaster bladder type product that's even better.
3. What happens if you fill the pump basket with water first before turning on the pump? Does the water move at all or just sit in the pump basket?
4 - Have you checked the pump impeller (power off) to ensure it spins freely?
So the pool had a new liner and fresh water put in. Since it was opened i decided to remove sand and add new. Added new and filled pump and basket with water. The motor comes on and the basket empties and has only half water. There is no water coming in from both hoses connected to the pool.

I disconnected motor and that valve for both inlets and put my shop vac at that opening. I got water on valve 1,2 and 1/2. So i ruled out water coming in. Someone did mention my handle at the filter was backwards and that is a new sticker. Could amazon of sent me the wrong sticker? If that the case it would atleast still run like normal instead of backwash because the 180 degree position is filtration.
 
The handle should be OVER the way you want the water to come/go :) (so if you want to ALLOW Port 1, then the HANDLE should be OVER Port 1 (to "open" it) and that will "close" (block Port 2)

Do you get water to the pump if you change the handle to either Port 1 or Port 2?
Ive done that. I get no water from 1 2 or 1/2. If i break that connection and use a shop vac. I do get water flow from 1 2 and 1/2. Right now i have it at the half because thats default operation. The water gets filled to the top on that basket via hose and as soon as i turn the filter on its half way down and if you open it. There is no water being pulled from pool into the basket.
 
The handle should be OVER the way you want the water to come/go :) (so if you want to ALLOW Port 1, then the HANDLE should be OVER Port 1 (to "open" it) and that will "close" (block Port 2)

Do you get water to the pump if you change the handle to either Port 1 or Port 2?
NO - read Post 12 from JamesW - The Hayward valves are different than the Jandy valves.
The OP has the valve correctly set for water flow.
 
I agree that if you removed the pump to pull water from the two incoming lines, and moved the 3-way valve through each setting (1,2, & 1/2) with good water flow, there is no blockage from the pool. This sounds like an above ground pool correct? Can you post a pic and update your signature please? As for the mulitport valve sticker, if it was installed in the incorrect position, you would see odd behavior at each selection, but at least you should see water move at some point. You can pull at least a half-basket of water out of the pump basket before it stops. If your waterline is above the pump (AGP), the priming should not be an issue. Water should flow easily to the pump. That is taking back to the filter itslef as if something may not be corrrect in there after the sand exchange. Everything else seems stright-forward. Does what I'm saying all make sense so far to what you're seeing on your end?
 
I agree that if you removed the pump to pull water from the two incoming lines, and moved the 3-way valve through each setting (1,2, & 1/2) with good water flow, there is no blockage from the pool. This sounds like an above ground pool correct? Can you post a pic and update your signature please? As for the mulitport valve sticker, if it was installed in the incorrect position, you would see odd behavior at each selection, but at least you should see water move at some point. You can pull at least a half-basket of water out of the pump basket before it stops. If your waterline is above the pump (AGP), the priming should not be an issue. Water should flow easily to the pump. That is taking back to the filter itslef as if something may not be corrrect in there after the sand exchange. Everything else seems stright-forward. Does what I'm saying all make sense so far to what you're seeing on your end?
This is an ingorund pool and it kinda makes sense. Im familiar with above ground from my previous house and being water needs to be sucked from below ground which is where lines go to the pool. Thats the part im trying to grasp.

My apologizes on the signature thing. I just joined and have no idea what that means when you and another user asked about signature. What should i have in there?
 
This is an ingorund pool and it kinda makes sense. Im familiar with above ground from my previous house and being water needs to be sucked from below ground which is where lines go to the pool. Thats the part im trying to grasp.
If you change the filter to recirculate then turn the pump on, is it able to move water?
 

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Any chance the MPV isn't sitting correctly over the center standpipe?
The pipe is centered but thats another question that pops up in my head. How does that operation work. How does that operation work? In my previous filter which was cartridge it would cause like a tornado to spin and have the water flow. With the sand at the bottom and sand is heavy. How does that work on the inside?
 
What should i have in there?
If you take a look at my signature, you'll see a good example (pool type, equipment info, etc). Anything that helps describe your set up. You should be able to go to the left TFP menu, SETTINGS, and update signature. If you're on a phone, you may have to turn it sideways to landscape.
 
If you change the filter to recirculate then turn the pump on, is it able to move water?
Nope it never moves water. When i ill the basket and turn it on u see it pushing into pool and once basket looses its water its dont pushing water. Thats why im leading to the filter itself because isnt that what give me the pressure to suction and push water? Also the gauge never shows any build up of pressure.
 
The pipe is centered but thats another question that pops up in my head. How does that operation work. How does that operation work? In my previous filter which was cartridge it would cause like a tornado to spin and have the water flow. With the sand at the bottom and sand is heavy. How does that work on the inside?
The dirty water falls onto the sand, then the "filtered" water is pushed out the pipes back to the pool
99616
 
Nope it never moves water. When i Fill the basket and turn it on, u see it pushing into pool and once basket looses its water its dont pushing water.
What is pushing into the pool?

Thats why im leading to the filter itself because isnt that what give me the pressure to suction and push water? Also the gauge never shows any build up of pressure.
The pump does the work :) the filter just cleans the water :)
 
Im familiar with above ground from my previous house and being water needs to be sucked from below ground which is where lines go to the pool. Thats the part im trying to grasp.
The only difference is that with an inground pool, the pump uses effort (suction) to pull water from the pool, underground, then "up" to the equipment pad. So water flow isn't as effortless as with an AGP where gravity does the work. In your case, this means the two suction lines you have must be full of water to the pump to create a good suction (air-tight) so that water can flow constantly from pool to pump. Sometimes there is a blockage, but you seem to have ruled that out because you physically pulled (vacuumed) water from the pump side of that 3-way valve with your shopvac. So if we rule-out anything from the pool suction ports (skimmers) all the way to that 3-way valve, that leaves the pump and filter. The pump seems to be moving water, at least half a basket's worth, then goes dry. So either it needs more time to pull water from your two suction lines, or there is an air leak somewhere around the pump. But you said all drain plugs have been installed on the pump. I'm assuming the clear basket O-ring is installed too right? All lubbed well too for good seal? Is there any chance the MVP didn't get seated correctly on the center pipe when you reinstalled it? Doubtfull, but needed to check.

If none of this seems odd, the only other thing I haven't asked .... when you fill the pump basket with water and turn it on, how long are you letting the pump run before shutting it off? For some pools, it can take a good 30 seconds to a minute to prime those two suction lines. You might even have to pull the water out of the basket, and refill it a couple times quickly to help prime the lines.
 
The only difference is that with an inground pool, the pump uses effort (suction) to pull water from the pool, underground, then "up" to the equipment pad. So water flow isn't as effortless as with an AGP where gravity does the work. In your case, this means the two suction lines you have must be full of water to the pump to create a good suction (air-tight) so that water can flow constantly from pool to pump. Sometimes there is a blockage, but you seem to have ruled that out because you physically pulled (vacuumed) water from the pump side of that 3-way valve with your shopvac. So if we rule-out anytiing from the pool suction ports (skimmers) all the way to that 3-way valve, that leaves the pump and filter. The pump seems to be moving water, at least half a basket's worth, then goes dry. SO either it needs more time to pull water from your two suction lines, or there is an air leak somewhere around the pump. But you said all drain plugs have been installed on teh pump. I'm assuming the clear basket O-ring is installed too right? All lubbed well too for good seal? Is there any chance the MVP didn't get seated correctly on teh center pipe when you reinstalled it?

If none of this seems odd, the only other tihng I haven't asked .... when you fill the pump basket wiht water and turn it on, how long are you letting the pump run before shutting it off? For some pools, it can take a good 30 seconds to a minute to prime those two suction lines. You might even half to pull the water out of the basket, and refill it a couple times quickly to help prime the lines.
All the rings and seals alone with connections are sealed. I didnt lube anything in the basket but the seal seems tight and if it wasn't i would feel air around it when i put my hands no?

I wait a good 20 to 30 seconds and nothing happens. I haven't waited a minute because with the basket water mid way i didn't want to burn out the pump. So i def didn't wait 1 minute.

I did open the basket a few times and refill to the top with water. Another thing i should point out. Forgot this part. My closer used like a pool anti freeze in the deeper end line. That was in the basket a few times and fizzing like soda. COuld that have gone in filter and cause false pressure? Should that line have been vacuumed out prior to starting filter?
 
I would do the following:
- Pull the basket lid and make sure that O-ring is lubbed. That is very important. Without lube, you lose all suction.
- Then fill the pump basket with water and let the pump run for at least 1 minute to try and prime. It will be okay. It may be struggling to fill those two lines with water. We just don't want pumps to run 3,5, or more minutes.
- I doubt the antifreeze is causing this. It would effect your chemistry perhaps, but not the priming.
 
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I would do the following:
- Pull the basket lid and make sure that O-ring is lubbed. That is very important. Without lube, you lose all suction.
- Then fill the pump basket with water and let the pump run for at least 1 minute to try and prime. It will be okay. It may be struggling to fill those two lines with water. We just don't want pumps to run 3,5, or more minutes.
- I doubt the antifreeze is causing this. It would effect your chemistry perhaps, but not the priming.
What would i use for lube on the ring? This special lube?
 
What would i use for lube on the ring? This special lube?
Yes, pool silicone lube. I current have a product called Magic Lube, but there are others. Just NEVER use petroleum jelly (i.e. Vasoline) on pool o-rings & seals. It will tear them up. You definately want a pool silicone lube. Very common at pool stores.
 

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