Pentair MasterTemp 250 Control Board unresponsive

Oct 25, 2017
2
Dayton/OH
I have a Pentair MasterTemp 250 which had a fried fan and didn't want to start.
I shorted pins 1 and 2 of the control board and the heater started (of course I had to replace the fan motor).
It works fine now, heats and all the goodies but all the buttons are unresponsive. I have to turn the heater on and off from the breaker on the wall, all lights work fine except one thing: The Spa ON light stays On instead of the Pool ON light (which had to be On all these years - heater works fine on this setting now).
Do I need a new control board (since it has been shorted) or a Switch Membrane? Is there a way to reset the board?
I am attaching three pictures for your reference.
Please help...
 

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The board has some spots on it that don't look good. That is probably the reason why it doesn't work like it should. Bottom of board around the "POOL ON" lettering.

Can you adjust temp?
 
Shorting pins 1 to 2 briefly is the same as pressing "Spa On". Pressing a button on the membrane pad shorts a pin (2 through 5) to pin 1 to make a selection. Pin 1 is the lowest pin and pin 6 is the highest pin.

1 to 2 ...spa on.
1 to 3...pool on.
1 to 4...heater off.
1 to 5...down arrow.
1 to 6...up arrow.

Why did you short the pins? Were the buttons not working? Is the membrane pad connected now?

You can briefly short the pins as listed above to simulate pressing a button but don't leave the pins shorted.

The pins are so small and close together that it's hard to short any two without touching the others. So don't do it if you can't short only two.

If you can short only a single pin to pin one, the board should respond as indicated. If it doesn't, then the control board is bad. If all pin combinations work by short but not by pad buttons then the membrane is bad.

I would try the membrane pad first and then the control board.
 
JamesW, it is easy to short the pins. You leave the connector in place and push the jumper wire thru where the units wiring is.

A membrane keypad is cheaper to try first.
 
JamesW, it is easy to short the pins. You leave the connector in place and push the jumper wire thru where the units wiring is.

A membrane keypad is cheaper to try first.

Ok, thanks. One reason to do it with the membrane disconnected is if one of the buttons is stuck closed, which would invalidate the test.
 
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