Thoughts on bio-active cya reducer

I would like to say first to Jason that I didn't mean to appear to be rude as there is always a chance that there's something going on that we don't fully understand I just think that given the fact that the Bio-Actice CYA reducer was added its most likely to be the cause.

No, no convenient way to check for bacteria. You would need to take sampLes to a lab that can swab agar plates, incubate them and the check for Colony forming units (CFU) after incubation. And I think there's a high probability that you could take samples without bacteria even when bacteria is present and get a false negative.

Thinking about it more I think I would raise your FC/CYA to 4ppm/40ppm and see where it goes before super chlorinating. Given that you've had CYA issues I would be inclined to bring your CYA up to 30ppm with cyanuric acid, PoolMath says that's 108oz. I'd get your FC up to 4ppm and do your best to maintain it there. Keep checking you CYA and hope it stays close or at 30ppm. If it keeps dropping then it's time to super chlorinate. And since you've had a CYA problem I would stay clear of the pucks.
 
I used a product named Bio Active 8 oz package. Had a very high cya content 130ppm. Drained part of my 30 k gallon plaster pool. Ended up with 95ppm. Added bio active once Fcl was under 3ppm next day reading was 77. Today added another 8 oz Fcl must be below 3ppm. I'm going to check again tomorrow. Let's see what happens
 
I used a product named Bio Active 8 oz package. Had a very high cya content 130ppm. Drained part of my 30 k gallon plaster pool. Ended up with 95ppm. Added bio active once Fcl was under 3ppm next day reading was 77. Today added another 8 oz Fcl must be below 3ppm. I'm going to check again tomorrow. Let's see what happens
I would ask what are you using to get your numbers? None of the test kits we have found to be accurate will provide readings to the level of 95 or 77.

Multiple members have tried this product in the past with minimal if any results.
 
Re: thoughts on bio-active cya reducer

I wanted to give an update on my use of the cya reducer. I do believe it does work. Last season I put a bag in July (I didn't end up using it in May) and went from 340 ( I was wrong on my original post) I had to dilute the pool water 4 to 1 for the test. This put the CYA down to approximately 240. It took about 2 weeks. I believe the key is using it when it is warm. Also I had to leave the cover off of the pool for awhile. I have solar panels and the temperature of the pool was about 85. I did not use it again last season. This year only using liquid chlorine and through water evaporating and replacing water, the CYA was down to 140 by June.I put another bag in at the end of last month I just tested the CYA and it is 70. I found it on Amazon for $35. I am pleased and hopefully I can keep the CYA down I think I will get to the ideal range of CYA with water evaporation and replacing.
 
If any member of TFP buys bio-active CYA reducer, please do not expect it to make any difference in reducing your CYA.....it won't....period.

Kim, Making only 2 posts in two years and ONLY about bio-active (and how it works!) raises some eyebrows among us cynics. No other issues during that period?
 
Sounds like a product you can buy as a combo pack with pucks. ...lol
I can hear the pool store now...here buy this bucket of pucks and get this cya remover free. Directions will say...add cya remover when pool turns cloudy or green.
 

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Well Actually it has been one year. I usually get my answers by reading your forums. The reason I do not post is you people scare the heck out of me. I can see that you have made up your mind about this product. That is fine, I still appreciate the information that I read on your site.
 
We have made up our minds but only after 11 out of 10 people posted that it didn't work. There have been a number of active threads of people trying it out. We would love to have a product that reduces CYA without draining. Bioactive even had a rep signed up who was trying to help people through the process and it still didn't work. And they are no longer active here. Hey, that is sorta punny. :)
 
long story short.
22k gallon oval vinyl pool
Hayward s244t with fresh sand and new gasket.
centurion .75 hp
cya = 300, $60 Bio-active (drop in the bucket compared to the $1000s in bleach I've poured into this pool). This is after dumping 18" of water.

After 5 days
~1" rain water
FC: 2-3 (twice daily)
CC: .2
pH: 7.4
TA: 130
CH: 260
CYA: 240 (thats a reduction but at this point its still anecdotal)


Next step is a truck full of dirt.
 
I will also say I would be hesitant to share any data with this group, but I have to get comfortable with the readings first I will add in this post. Living in Vegas you have to have water conservation as a priority if you have any sort of decency about you; the water replacement costs help motivate you too :) I've been using test strips so I'm going to switch to a better testing but I am concerned (in general) about my CYA considering I use pucks which seem to be very convenient. I intend to look into the TFP method but was hoping to hold on to this very simple puck life :) Another concern is that my FC is generally around 1PPM, but again using testing strips. So far crystal clear water using HTH Super 3" pucks but my pool guy I fired (because I wanted to save $150/mo) also did what he referred to as a preseason algae treatment which they guarantee prevents algae during pool season.

Well Actually it has been one year. I usually get my answers by reading your forums. The reason I do not post is you people scare the heck out of me. I can see that you have made up your mind about this product. That is fine, I still appreciate the information that I read on your site.
 
If you don't use pucks then you don't need to worry about cya and then you don't have to drain or use bio active. I have never put a puck in my pool and I have never drained a drop since it was filled in 2012.
 
Preseason algae treatment is probably copper and can end up being a huge problem.

If you're using nothing but pucks, you need to carefully watch your ph, ta and cya. An all puck routine typically does not work in the long run.

I definitely recommend getting a proper test kit.
 

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