Hi,

Our pool is being remodeled. The PB sold us on Hayward Universal ColorLogic LED Pool Light, 12-Volt, LED light LPCUS11100.

I just turned on the newly installed light and it is casting a huge shadow on the deep end. Does anybody have any ideas on the reason it is casting the shadow?

One reason we were given is when a PB (not ours) came by to give an opinion and said the LED light is installed upside down and that the same is true for the niche. Is that even possible with Hayward LED lights?

Thank you.

Hello,
I just bought a house with a salt water pool. First time pool owner. I hope to learn a lot here.

Hi all,

My 2 year old saltwater pool has this water bonding fitting. My question is does this replace the need for a sacrificial anode? Thanks for your time. I'm a new pool owner and I'm slowly learning!

Thanks,

Dan C

I bought a house recently and it came with a polaris 360 that was already installed to the pool. I noticed the pool has not been getting cleaner despite having the Polaris on for 10-12 hours a day. Upon checking, I realized that the Polaris isn’t really going anywhere. When inspecting further, I noticed that the wheels do not spin when the pump is on. I saw a YouTube video where the person was holding the Polaris in the pool and was counting the rpm for the wheels, but mine does not do that. Does anyone have any idea on what I should do? I’m completely new to all this.

UPDATE: Cell Reversing is a non issue, normal cycle. Must've had an algae bloom that was eating up my chlorine.

Recently replaced my 6 year old salt cell with a brand new Jandy PLC1400. Hadn't checked the pool since last week, went out this afternoon and saw the water was cloudy. Checked chlorine levels and, zero point zero. Anyway, the Aquapure control center says the cell is reversing. The cell is clean, verified good voltage hitting the cell and that the sensors were clean. It's dark out now, so I plan to troubleshoot first thing tomorrow morning. My new cell came with a new sensor and power cord, but I didn't install them when I replaced the cell. I'm going to try that first thing tomorrow morning. Just hoping someone here could maybe suggest other troubleshooting tips. In the meantime, I dumped a couple gallons of liquid chlorine in the pool to clear it up. Thanks in advance!

Hi I'm david. We are about finish redoing our pool that came with the house. We decided to go with mini Pebble instead of replastering. Also added salt water system pentair. Start up day 1 just started today. He said it only takes 4 days. . if all goes well, he will be our service guy. Hopefully I won't be back here often for help lol

new here have an inground salt pool

Hello-

I have a Hayward aqua rite with a t-9 cell. Recently it started flashing check salt and inspect cell. I checked my salt today manually and found it at about 3100. I then cleaned the cell, reset the “check cell” light and calibrated the unit to 3100. This was about 8 hours ago. I just checked and it’s now reading 2600 with both check salt and inspect cell flashing again.

I have had this unit for 8 years and am on my 3rd cell. Never seen this issue before. Any suggestions?

I have a 20,000 gallon above ground pool. It is installed on top of a Gorilla Pad, which is directly on top of the ground. In 2020, we had a large number of pinholes in our liner (dozens of them) and it was suggested that I damaged the liner with too much chlorine. (I was trying to get rid of algae that wouldn't go away). We paid someone to replace the liner last year, and before the summer was even over, I was pretty sure we had a leak again. Now that the pool is open, I took a closer look and can see there are more pinholes again. Now I'm thinking it's ants or temites, because I've been very careful with my chlorine use. My question is, if we install a concrete pad under the pool, will this help with the insect problem? Have any of you had this issue and if so, what did you do? We love our pool, but we can't afford to replace a liner every 3 months lol.

Hello all
Next week I am having my pool water filtered through an R/O exchange system. My CYA is over 200 and I live in Phx. Draining the pool is not an option now. Has anyone had this done to their pool recently ? Also, what is a good CYA level to maintain in a hot climate. Only liquid chlorine from here on out. I have learned my lesson with 3 in. chlorine tabs. Thanks.

Hello! Salt pool owner for 6 years, new to forum and goodness I wish I would have found you sooner! We live in Texas so our pool runs year round. I’m excited to learn more about keeping my pool in top condition.

I have a Pentair 300 offline chlorine feeder, it's set to zero yet my pool's chlorine level stays above 3ppm. The feeder was installed by the contractor with the feeder "in" line before the filter vs. after (which is what the manual suggests). When I open the chlorine canister while the pump is running, it is full and immediately overflows despite having it's valve at zero.
1. When the valve is at zero, shouldn't that stop any water from entering the chlorine chamber? If so, then the valve is potentially defective. Except it's a new valve and the 3rd after the first two failed within 6 mo's of each other (started leaking/cracked).
2. My concern is that there is too much pressure due to the feeder line attachment before vs. after the filter, though the filter pressure valve shows 20 psi so I don't believe it could dramatically higher before entering the filter. Could the pressure be the issue?

Any other suggestions? My thought is to try to replumb with the filter "in" line after the filter to see if that solves the issue, but I would need to seal the original hole in the pvc pipe somehow- I don't know what to use.
I'd appreciate any help. Thanks, Phil

We bought an 18'x48" Coleman Vista during covid for us and the grandkids. It lasted ~ 2 years. Some of the legs rusted out. Replacements are ridiculously expensive so it's cheaper to buy a new pool. This time, went with Bestway 20'x48". It lasted a year. Same issues. Same issues with replacement parts. We just ordered an Intex 20'x52" pool. I realize they're all manufactured by the same company. We got these because they were all < $500. We reuse our heavy duty ladder and our sand filter and pump. The water stays good, we just need to figure out how to 1) inhibit or slow rusting and/or 2) how to build or replace the parts with something more durable.

So I've just converted over to swg and had an RJ45+ installed (need to update signature). I waited 24 hours after adding initial salt and was reading 3400 using the 1766 kit. New vsp pump running 24/7.

The swg was generating first day with no issues. Second day I've noticed twice now that the water coming through the cylinder is clear instead if hazy. The wall mount showed 0 amps and 0 salt. Both times I turned off the swg and then turned it back on. It immediately recognized salt and started producing chlorine. The water exiting the cell was cloudy and the display shows amperage on the cell.

Thought I'd post here before calling circupool in case someone has experienced this before.

Hello!

We just had a new vinyl liner and variable speed pump installed this week. They did an awesome job but I thought they were handling the first addition of chemicals but they just said bring in a water sample. I did that today and was instructed to add 10lbs of PH down and 2 gallons of chlorine. During the day today I found this site through Reddit and started playing with the calculator which is giving me pretty different results so wanted to ask the group.

30000 gallons chlorine pool
Hayward 700 VS pump and Hayward sand filter
pH 8.2
TA 180
FC 2.0
TC 2.0
CYA 55
TH 400

Calculator showing just shy of 6lbs of pH Down vs. 10 from shop recommendation. I just don't want to screw it up off the bat. Also wondering how much ph down to mix with water in 5 gal bucket before adding and what speed we should have the pump working at for adding this stuff? Thanks for reading, we'll get better on our own quickly but I hate that the pool basically has no chemicals in it short of chlorinator running so want a quick answer this time around til we can read more.

I'm going to paint the exposed PVC at my equipment pad.

For those that have used Krylon Fusion or Rust-Oleum 2x, were you satisfied with the results?

Does anyone have a different favorite/recommended brand of paint?

I received and installed my WaterGuru Sense 2 today. After the first test, some of the results differ greatly from my Taylor tests

WaterGuru
FC - 5.1
TA - 99
CYA - 86

Taylor
FC - 1.5
TA - 80
CYA - 60

Should I not trust WaterGuru? Should I not trust my own tests?

Thanks.

Help! Having the grandkids over tomorrow and Free Cl = 11.5 ppm Goal 5.0 with CYA 70
SWG: IC40 15,000 gal. Everything else is balanced. pH 7.5
I have 24 hours on a weekend to fix this.
The pH is 7.5 so vitamin C is out.
Peroxide or thiosulfate? How much? for the 15000 gallon pool?
Thanks

Hi, I have a Taylor K-2006c test kit. I am testing FC/TC with a 25 ml sample of pool water. When I enter 2 dippers of R-0870, the sample turns a cloudy light pink. This is the first time using my kit. I expected a clear pink.

Context: I have high CYA (200 ppm). Has anybody had similar experience when CYA is so high?

If the cloudiness is not a problem, can I trust the test results?

Thanks everybody!

I have two bubblers on my tanning ledge. The water is about 6" deep there. The two eyeball fittings there protrude a bit and the inside portion of the eyeball (the actual hole) has a very sharp edge. Multiple times, people have stepped on those and got a chunk of skin cut off in the shape of a circle.

I'm concerned about the pain these inflict, because when we're running through the pool water, they're very difficult to see and easy to step on.

Is there anything simple I can do to lessen the pain these cause?

My sample does not turn yellow when I add a drop of R-0630. I don't see an expiration date on this test, but I just bought it last season. Can I just add more drops to get it to turn yellow?

Hello,
I just emptied my filter out due to murky film on top of my pool water and poor pump/filter operations. I watched a YouTube video which advised to put water into the bottom of the filter, then pour in glass medium, then added water filling up most of the tank, allowing about 5 inches below the top of the filter tube. When I placed the top back on ad tried to backwash, water pushed the top unit off. I am wondering if I put too much water into the filter and if I should drain some out to reduce the pressure? If anyone can advise, please do! Thank you VERY MUCH!!

I’ve been dealing with some pool cloudiness for the past few weeks. Initially I thought it was pollen. Been sweeping, runnning the vac, backwashing, etc. my chemical levels have been a little high (as indicated by the pool store — I just bought the TF-PRO kit so never again with them)

Anyways it was recommended that I FLOC the pool, then vacuum to waste. They wrote everything down but left one detail out. To set the pump to recirculate. So I dumped the floc in. Ran the filter for an hour before I turned the pump off. Waiting 24hrs set the pump to waste and started vacuuming.

Of course over the 24hrs of settling time. I jump on this forum start searching and immediately had a panic attack. One for FLOC’ing in the first place, and two for running the pump while putting that Crud in my pool

Question now. Am I screwed here? I vacuumed but it still stirred a bunch of stuff off. My guess I’ll have to do this 2 or 3 more times. What about my filter situation? Will I be able to backwash to help any future issues? Any suggestions?

I’m hoping my testing kit comes quickly. But first I need to get the pool under control from this situation. I cannot dump the pool and refill as it’s a liner and over 35k gallons.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Hey gang. Somehow, my bottom drain cover screws fell out and I cannot locate them. There are 4 screw holes on the cover but according to the manuals I found, it appears only 2 screws are used to secure the cover?

I looked at the 2nd drain (I have 2 at bottom) and only 2 are present there but the PB had to replace the liner under warranty a few years ago and am now wondering if they misplaced a few?

Anyways, best I can tell the cover screws are SS #6 1" long but I can't find the specs for the threads. Was hoping to simply go to the HW store to find replacements but I want to make sure I match the thread spacing.

Does anyone have a suggestion on a replacement screw?

Also, I can't find the exact manual on the Waterways site for my cover based on the numbers on the drain cover?!? Seems they make a few different similar looking covers for vinyl liner pools but none exactly match part number and surprising to see different part numbers for the cover screws...

Here's what I dug up. If anyone has any thoughts, I would appreciate it.

Many thanks!!
Marc

Was thinking of switching over to these style cartridge as it looks like it will filter smaller particles 3 vs 10 to 15 micron and also no cleaning just replace. My only concern is if these filter smaller particles it could possibly clog up quicker.

Curious if any other Ariel owners have solved the issues of coping scratching the sensors and the unit beaching itself on steps.

I am a big fan of Solar Breeze and really want the Ariel to work but I haven’t got more than 3 weeks out of one before having to exchange it.

Support has provided me with acrylic blocks but they do not protect the sensors except for a 90 degree hit. Also, they are weighing down the front of the unit and is causing it to needlessly spin.

I sent support a follow up email on how to resolve and am waiting a reply. I will update if I hear back but it the meantime …. Any owners solve these issues?

Hi, it's me again.

It's only been a few weeks since my month long SLAM and my pool is cloudy. I noticed it a bit cloudy a few days ago so brought my FC to 10. Today it's much more cloudy so I figure I'm back to having to SLAM again. I really don't know why this keeps happening. I know pool maintenance is supposed to be easy after doing a SLAM, but not for my pool. Not until I figure out what I'm missing. I kept my water balanced, you can check my logs through the poolmath app. I ran the robot periodically, brushed the pool a few times. Made sure to keep the auto cover vault clean. Maybe I didn't vacuum the debris from the vault enough. Could dirty grout above the waterline be the issue? Could it be that my auto cover is closed most of the time except when swimming or testing water? I want to see if I can unbolt the leading rail if the auto cover so I can clean the grout under there as it looks dirty. I'm going to begin the pool disassemble and scrub down today before bringing mt FC levels up.

I haven't tried an OCLT, but I doubt it'd pass. I dropped .5 FC over night with my SWG set at 30%. Is go out of town for the week on Monday and won't be able to look after the pool while gone.

I’m away working for 2 weeks and naturally the day after I left the pump motor eats itself. Pool man says the bearings are trashed and to replace the whole thing for $2200. No thanks. Motor appears to run 800-900 but does anyone know the specs. Ie frame, face etc that I could match up to a non pentair motor.
Thx in advance

Just got the Taylor 2006C Salt kit in and did my first round of testing. Brand New pool, construction finished late May, 7500 gallons plaster Wet Edge, no screen, direct sunlight all day. The pool builder has been balancing chems up until about 5 days ago... Pool looks beautiful, crystal clear. Looking for some confirmation on what I should and shouldn't be doing via results/ pool math suggestions. Thanks in advance for any insight!

Results were

FC - 3.0 - The Recommended target is 6.0 at 90 CYA - The recommendation is to run the SWG at 40% 7.75 hours a day.... It is already running at 40% 10 hours a day from 8am to 6pm. Should I up the Percentage or pump run time?
CC - 1.0
CYA -90 (Pool builder was using a lot of Dichlor I think)
PH - was high, Per 2 drops needed on Acid Demand Test to hit 7.6, Taylor book suggests 13.8 oz of 31.45%
TA - 70
CH - 220 - This is recommending to add 15 Lbs. of Calcium chloride? thoughts?
Salt - 3400

I'm pretty sure that adding the acid is a no brainer, but want to verify the other items before proceeding!