What would cause the hose coming off my pool heater to burst, I have a 1.5 horsepower pump. My gas pool heater is a raypak.

What do you all think about the Skim-Around, has anyone used it?

Hello

I recently set up Pentair Screen Logic for my Easy Touch Panel. Everything works as it should through the app on my phone except for changing my pool light color/mode. I can turn the pool light on and off from the app, but can’t change the pool light color or mode from the app. I have a 120 volt intilibrite pool light and have set it up correctly on my east touch panel. I am able to change the pool light color and different modes from my easy touch panel, just not from the screen logic app? I attached some screenshots while using the Pentair pool app. If I pick a color or mode in the lighting section, nothing happens on the screen.

Thanks for any advice!

Hi All, My App just stopped working and says RS485 Error. my remote direct connected to the pool is old and fried by the sun so I cant see anything on it. If i turn the power off and then boot back up the filter comes on, but only runs for like an hour then shuts off. i have no way to change using the app. I did have the firmware to upgrade and I did that. it then worked for a little while like a few hours, then back to same thing. I cant keep the filter running. Any suggestions?

I signed out, back in and that didn't work.
I re downloaded the app and that didn't work.
only thing that seems to get it running is cutting power and then turning back on.

This is what I’ve been vacuuming up yesterday and today (nylon stocking in vacuum hose)
The white stuff turns in to very fine chalky dust when dry.
Dead algae……? Or……..?

So did my first test, hopefully entered all the data into the PoolMath app and shared it here somehow, i hope
Pool has been maintained with tablets( i know bad idea, but i have 30 pounds of the stuff)
I will list the numbers here as am unsure about the sharing thing.

FC 2.5
pH 8.2
TA 200
CH 450
CYA 100

Where do i start?

Hello,

Just curious what the down sides might be of buying a sand filter with 2 inch valves when my piping is 1.5 inch. I would just use a reducer. The pool store said there is no down side but I am nervous about buying a filter that is not meant for 1.5.

For example won't the part of the pipe leaving the sand filter that is reduced to 1.5 have a part that is going to collect stuff and need to be cleaned out often?

I'm having trouble changing my VS pump speed. I'm assuming I can change on the PDA. I thought I did that but it keeps reverting back to 3,040 rpm. I'm trying to set it to around 2,000.

Can someone tell me how to make the change via PDA or from the pump display screen?

Hi. I'm considering installing a SWG and my question is:

Is the SWG turned on by applying power to a controller for the SWG?

IE - Can a smart switch like a sonoff be used to turn it on and off as long as it is turning the pump on to a compatible speed?

Hi all! I wanted some feedback on what I should do. Here's the situation:

We are about to leave town (Houston TX) for 10 days and I'm worried about coming back to a green pool.

I'm struggling to keep FC above 0.5 (measured with my TF-PRO kit). We can see small patches of algae scattered throughout the pool that are easily brushed off the bottom and walls.

We use chlorine tabs and I'm afraid they've raised CYA too much over the past month. In addition to the tabs, I added a gallon of 10% liquid chlorine over the span of two nights and it didn't budge the FC. I'm guessing it burned off from the time it was added to testing the next day.

Water is clear and most measurements are in line. CYA is probably higher than it should be, but I'm not the best at measuring it with the black dot, etc.. We cleaned the filter this past weekend, it was dirty but not alarmingly so. Last cleaning was Nov 16.

Water Temp: 91°C
FC: 0.5 | CC: 0.5 | TC: 1.0
pH: 7.6 | TA: 80 | CH: 275
CYA: 60-80 (depends on who is reading it)

My strategy is to immediately add more 10% liquid chlorine over the course of the next 48 hours (which is when I leave town). I have 3 gallons ready to deploy. I'm hoping this will get FC higher and then it will burn off to normal and the tabs would do the rest. I likely won't have time to SLAM or drain the pool to lower CYA.

Any other ideas on what I can do. I don't have anyone that I trust to monitor the pool when I'm gone and I prefer not to use a pool company.

Thanks for your feedback!

Brian

The power supply for my Nautilus Plus got burned up (plugged in and there was a pop followed by smoke pouring out of it). Maytronics confirmed it was out of warranty and pointed me to the replacement part 9995672 for $300, but the old one I have is actually 9995670 which sells for $200. It looks like there's a screen or something on the 9995672 that I assume makes it more expensive. Anyone know what that screen does, and is it worth the extra $100? Will it even work for my unit if mine originally came with the 9995670? Maytronics checked my serial number before pointing me to the 9995672, so I'm not sure why they didn't suggest the one that matches my original one. It took me ~30 minutes on hold before someone picked up so I'm not eager to try calling again. Thanks!

We have a Raypak 8450 heat pump that has been working fine to heat the pool but last night it mysteriously came on at 7pm (pool pump is timed to go off at 6pm) and it had been valved off all day and not used. It was not blowing cold air out the top so it actually wasn't heating but it was running. I talked to a Raypak tech this morning but he wasn't much help. My normal setting is 85* and the lcd screen said the water temp was 90*. Any thoughts????

Hey TFP,

I had an automatic water filler installed, and had a different guy run the water line for me a few months ago. He put in 2 manual valves, one right before the pool and one on the other end near the water supply. This is nice because I can seal it off from either end. But, he did not install an anti-siphon valve to prevent water from being sucked from the pool back into our house lines. I'm not clear exactly what is needed...is the attached photo the proper product for this?

cheers!

Pool has been cloudy blue for weeks. Bought a house with a long-neglected pool about 12,000. I have a Hayward Pro Series Sand Filter with 150lb of sand.

Pool has been blue but cloudy for weeks. Tested w Taylor K2006C kit today:

FC 3ppm
CC .5ppm
pH 7.6
TA 110
CH 130
CYA 50

Is SLAMing worth a shot here? I have the filter on nonstop, changed the sand entirely about 2 weeks ago, and it just won't clear up. I've been using powder shock and tablet chlorine but realize from.this forum I should try liquid.

Not sure if it’s going to do any good but I like to tinker. I ran a temp air line off my shop compressor to the pool. Then built a little copper aerator I guess. It’s 3/4 type M with an air fitting, check valve to keep water from going back into my air line, then capped. I drilled 20 1/8th holes around the pipe. No idea if it’ll do any good but if it does I’ll probably rebuild it in pex A so I don’t have a copper pipe sitting on my plaster. Seems to be working pretty well and it looks pretty cool running.

Why? Mostly just because and the pool math app recommended dropping the pH to 7.0-7.2 then aerating to get the TA down and pH back up. And it seemed like a fun piddling around project. I’m a remodel contractor so I used what I had laying around.

It really confused my pups.

OK, I admit that I've totally freaked myself out of wiring this thing up. So I called a local electrician out to help me and he made it worse by saying he's not comfortable doing it.

We even looked at the instructions on the forum for a similar set up. So is this really that hard? I'm electrically challenged but also not an idiot, no problem with the PVC cutting and splicing.

Can I post a picture of my current Jandy circuit board set up? And then get help?

I don't want to pay a service company $1,000 to hook three wires up, no disrespect intended to them.

Today, when checking my skimmmers, I noticed the water wasn’t flowing in to either one of them. It was like the skimmers were turned off. The baskets didn’t have much of anything in them. The pump was running fine and the pump basket had minimal debris in it, it certainly wasn’t clogged. I decided to turn the pump off and then back on because it runs at 100% speed for the first 10 minutes of being on, then reduces to 50% power. Just wanted to see if the situation would improve or stay the same. After I did that, everything is back to running as it should. This situation has happened once before, about a month ago. Any ideas what is going on? I would think if our skimmer lines had a clog, it wouldn’t have gone back to operating correctly when I turned it back on. Is it a pump issue? For reference, all the equipment , plumbing, etc. is nearly 2 years old. Zero issues last year.

It seems that Im always battling a little bit of algae in my pool, what I call a 5 o'clock shadow! Otherwise the water is clear but I feel that I am needing to brush away algae a little too often. I check my water balance daily and today I went to pool store to confirm my numbers. They are as follows from the pool store and are very close to the numbers I get with my Taylor kit:
FC-4.72.
Total Cl - 4.72.
pH - 7.6.
TA - 105
Calcium - 237
Cyan - 64
Iron - 0.1
Copper - 0.1
Phosphates - 2549
TDS - 900

So clearly the phosphates are high, I have landscaping with plants, mulch, etc within 18" or so from one long edge of the pool and over winter organic matter tends to collect in the cover. Are the phosphates really my problem? I have read in many forums that the phosphates are not such a big deal and dont necessarily need to be addressed. Last year they were in the 1800 range and I did add a bit of fresh water this spring after a power vac to waste. Any advice for me????

Hello TFP!

I recently had a Pentair CCP320 cartridge filter installed and have been cleaning it daily as part of a SLAM I am almost done with. As a result of this work, I have noticed a few issues that I am looking for input on from a more experienced user:

- filter pressure - After cleaning with a filter flosser hose attachment, the clean PSI reading on the pressure gauge is 16-18 PSI. Is this unusually high? Should I acid wash these cartridges? I ask because my prior DE filter would have a clean pressure of roughly 8-10 PSI. The maintenance service I was using left these filters out in the sun for a week plus while using flocculant / sequestrant.
- top manifold - The black plastic top manifold (part 170027) that fits into the top of the filter cartridges is very difficult to remove when cleaning the filter. I need to use something like a wide screwdriver to pry the top manifold ports out of the top of each filter cartridge, which puts a lot of wear and tear on the rubber cartridge top and the underside of the top manifold. I am deforming the plastic on the underside of the top manifold when prying these ports out. Is this normal, or could it be a consequence of leaving the cartridges sitting in the hot Florida sun for a week, possibly shrinking the rubber top so it does not fit properly?
- compression spring - The compression spring is not vertical when installed on top of the top manifold. This spring has an odd offset, making it especially annoying to close the filter.
- clamp ring - This clamp ring is a real challenge to install, possibly because of the compression ring problem I mention above. Is there a trick for installing these clamp rings?

As a noob to maintaining the pool and equipment, I am unsure how much of this is just standard fare versus this particular filter not being good or my maintenance service having damaged the equipment.

Insight appreciated, thanks for reading.

Hello everyone!

My 120v 300w incandescent flood bulb has burned out in my pool. (At least... I hope it's just burned out, and not something worse.)
I was interested in replacing it with something of an equivalent brightness that could change colors.

However there seems to be a ton of options out there with a WILDLY differing price range, and no one specifies a reason for the difference between a $70 bulb and a $300 bulb.

Previous posts have mentioned the site inyopools as a good source for bulbs. But the same issue crops up with no explanation given.
Pureline LED Pool Light Bulb Color Changing 120V 35W - $74.00
J & J Electronics ColorSplash LXG LED Pool Lamp 120V 23W - $299.99

Is it just the lower wattage? That seems crazy to me.

At any rate, can anyone recommend any reliable brands?
Or at least clue me in to what I should be looking for?

Thanks for reading!

Hello there. I need some advice. I opened my pool a few weeks ago. The pool is always green/brown at opening. The weather here in RI has been rainy/thunderstorms and humid pretty much every day and nobody was swimming so I have not been on top of the chemicals for about 10/12 days.
A couple of weeks ago, The CYA was 16 according to the pool store (I do have the Taylor K2006 test kit but I have a hard time w cya test) so I added 4 lbs stabilizer- did not test after adding
Well the pool turned green then brown from neglect, even smelled like a swamp.
Last night I decided to tackle the pool.
The ph was sky high so I added muriatic acid to bring it down to 7.2
I added 6 gallons of shock to begin with and added about 4 more through night. Filter running. The chlorine was getting "eaten up" very quickly.
I thought about it and concluded it must be ammonia. I tested the water and it appeared the may be a slight amount but then I looked at the forum and it said that you shouldnt test for ammonia if there is chlorine in the pool.
This morning the free chlorine was 7. The pool very cloudy.
I decided to test the cya and I couldnt get a reading so I figured I would go to the pool store( they use a computer) and see what there results are.
FC 4
TC 4.73
ph 7.1
TA 59
CH 138
CYA 5
Phosphates 1081
Im still learning but I figure I have ammonia since the cya decreased so drastically .Can anybody give me some advice here?

I have a 12k gallon white fiberglass pool.. Recently I had to SLAM my 12,000 gallon, white fiberglass pool that got away from me. My FC was reading zero and it was so cloudy I could not see the steps in the shallow end. Since we were having a bad stretch of weather forecasted for the
next 5 days I elected to slam the pool.

Within 24 hours things appeared to improve dramatically and within 48 hours the pool was crystal clear.

I maintained the shock level for another two days to insure a successful SLAM but then noticed a huge difference it the color of the fiberglass. The pool took on a brownish orange appearance almost like I had an iron issue.

I reduced the PH which did help lighten the staining but it is still very noticeable.
Is this now a permanent color caused by introducing the high chlorine content??

Really not sure how to handle it. I did put in a quart of Iron out but it did absolutely nothing.

Would appreciate any advise.
Gary Blizzard

Hello TFP!

I am getting close to the end of a successful SLAM, have had the filter pump running 24/7 since the afternoon of Saturday June 24th, and the filter pump has been making a loud pulsing sound with a rough periodicity of 1 second for the past 3 days. The pump has 5 days of continuous operation apart from episodic filter cleanings that take 30-45 minutes per day. This sound persists even immediately after I clean the cartridge filters and restart the pump.

The pool is 26k gallons, PVC runs are 2", and the pump is a Waterway SMF-120 (single speed). There are no suction side leaks, evidenced by the completely full pump basket. The pump motor is running hot enough that I cannot safely touch it for very long, which is partly related to it being unusually hot here in Tampa the past several days (90-95 F).

I am interested in input on how to diagnose what is going on with the pump and/or its motor. I am adept with low and high voltage electrical and can check the motor housing temperature using infrared.

Thanks for reading!

I grew up with a pool, my dad used the pool store and baquacil so the only thing I leaned with that pool was cleaning out the skimmers and backwashing the sand filter. Then 10 years ago my wife and I bought a house with a pool and just hired a weekly service. In January we had the pool plaster redone. I realized that a service spending 45 min on it once a week probably was not the best way to keep it in the best shape so I took on the job and as my dad had for many years went to the pool store. It only took one trip to realize they only serve to upsell irrelevant chemicals. Long story short the App Store led me here and my TFPro test kit is due any day now. In the mean time I’ve been using two different kits from Home Depot and Lowes along with test strips. My levels are pretty close but I’ve still got a small problem with algae in the shaded areas so I plan to SLAM if the proper test dictate that it is needed.

40,000 gallons
Plaster with waterline tile
Sand filter
Using a Polaris 9550 as needed.

Really enjoying the great info both on these forums and on pool school in general.

Hello!
I have an above ground pool that was neglected for 3 yrs. Still in the process of cleaning out the remaining sludge. There were some dead animals and the pool became a birthing center for frogs. The company that is coming to replace the liner suggests I replace the filter and the pump. As far I know it is still working, without water in the pool all I can do is turn it on and hear that its running.. My question is with all the muck, dead animals and frogs that have been in the pool is it wise to replace or just deep clean and replace the sand? Also if I just need to deep clean, how do I do it. Previous seasons the pool remained clean but when covid hit, the pool became an after thought. Any recommendations will be much appreciated!

See link below. Thoughts on these, or does anybody have experience? Seems like a fun (and affordable) addition to our above ground pool. I'd make sure it's compatible with our pump first.

Pool sprayer

Got the test kit refills when Taylor had them on sale this spring and just recently opened the R-0870 DPD powder. Some of the granules are gray in color, and I notice when I use it to test the water is cloudy (after I add the powder). Results remain the same as they have previously, but every container I've had in the past has had pure white granules. Like I said, doesn't seem to impact the test but curious if this is okay to use or if it somehow is contaminated.

.

How long after I add acid can i test the pool again? I have a new laster pool and an trying to keep the ph under 8. It was 8.2 6 hours ago, i added the required amount of acid per pool math, and it looks like its still 7.8 (instead of 7.0 like i put acid in for)

Did i retest too soon?

Hello TFP Community,

We had a fiberglass pool installed last year in June. It's a fiberglass pool that holds 11,400 gal (16x32) (3.5' - 5.5' deep) with Pentair IC40 SWG, Variable speed pump, an automatic pool cover (dark blue), Polaris pool robot and well water. Two Tanker trucks were used to fill the pool originally. Our family loves the pool and last year we had no issues. Because the SWG kept the chlorine levels pretty constant, I didn't add anything but salt last season and pool was always crystal clear. Started out this season with a crystal-clear pool and all was fine for a while. I found the TFP site and ordered a Talyor Pro test kit and did a few tests during last year and this year and all was fine ...for a while. Then, because the chlorine was a bit high, I was stupid enough to turn off my SWG for several weeks. All was fine until we got a 10-day cool spell during which time, I didn't open the pool. When it finally warmed back up and I opened the pool, the water was green. I turned on the SWG, but it couldn't take care of the algae. I began doing much more research on TFP forums to find out what I needed to do to get the pool back to normal. Due to my own experience with a pool store once, I only wanted advice from TFP while taking a lot of heat from my wife on why I "don't just call a pool company to come fix it!" I hadn't added any salt to the pool this year because my Pentair InteliCenter2 phone app and the control panel both stated that the salt level was still at 3800. I added 2-40 lb salt bags and turned up the SWG to 100% (was at 28 before I turned it off) and still green water. I started researching on TFP how to SLAM my pool and started adding liquid chlorine gallons to the pool. I made several trips to the store and tried to keep the FC levels up to kill the algae. It took a while, but I finally got most of the green to go away, however there is still al light green tint to the water even though it looks clear and I can easily see things on the bottom of the pool. Also, about 3 weeks ago the pool water was a little low so I added well water to raise it back up. We do have iron in the well water as it turns sidewalks etc. rusty brown, but I've never measured it in 36 years of living here. It does taste very good, and we've never had any issues a water softener doesn't take care of in the house. I did just recently discover that my pool test kit can test calcium and it was 350 on 6/18.

Here are some of my recent pool levels:

TA CL CYA CC FC PH TC pool was crystal clear
5/11/23 9 65 1.5 23 7.5 25 didn't measure TA
6/22/23 150 10+ 65 2.5 .5 7.2 2.5
6/23 500+ 10+ 50 0 50 8.2 50 added liquid chlorine earlier to kill algae, CL was orange, TA took 56 drops
6/24 500+ 10+ 70 0 30 7.5 30 TA still very high, CL orange, added a gal of muratic acid to lower PH
6/27 500 10+ 55 2.2 37 7.6 39 TA still very high, CL orange, water looks clear with light green tint

Over the last week I also added 6-40 lb bags of salt and the salt level now says 6750 and I've been running the SWG at 28% since the FC is high due to the liquid chlorine I added.

6/29/23 It's been cool again and when I opened the pool to look at it this morning, it's still got a light green tint, but I can clearly see the bottom and the sparkles.

I have used the pool robot and brushed the sides and bottom of pool. I have never seen any algae dust clouds when brushing the pool. The fiberglass pool color is light-medium blue with sparkles. When the sun shines on the
pool, I can see the sparkles and anything that's on the bottom of the pool. Nothing noticeable comes off when I use a brush. I need to add some more well water and I'm wondering now (by reading TFP forums) if the light green
tint could be from the well water. We have begun to swim in the pool again with no noticeable reactions. When opening the pool this year, due to the automatic pool cover, I had to add well water to the pool however it was still
crystal clear...until after I turned off the SWG! I also read a thread about the reagents being too old. I got my first test kit about a year ago and am ordering a refill kit today to see if that makes any difference on why my FC tube doesn't turn all the way clear but a hazy light brownish color.

And as a side note and a laugh- I sell chemicals to the RV,marine, and cargo trailer mfg industry in my area- but I've never had a class in chemistry!!

This is a clear lesson for another newbie of what NOT to do with a SWG.

I am looking for advice on how to get the light green tint out of the pool.

Bill

My Pentair Warrior SI has finally succumbed to the issues many others have reported (purchased April 2020 from Marina Pools, but certainly not their fault).

Earlier this year was having issues with Wall-E not going to the shallow end. Upon @JoyfulNoise suggestion I broke him down to the propeller and sure enough it was wrapped in dog hair. Removed. Reassembled. Worked great for about a month.

Last week it started doing this thing where it would go forward about 12”, backward about 12”, then stop. Tore it down. Impeller had nothing on or around it. However, the impeller was very resistant to spin with a push from my finger.

Still not willing to dish out $600 for a new motor assembly, I took to YouTube and found this Login to view embedded media
Could it be this simple?
A bearing that cost $1 and a $25 tool (that I might be able to borrow from a parts store)?

Stay tuned folks - IM GOING IN!