Has anyone switched from Jandy's iAquaLink to Pentair's IntelliCenter?

Sometimes I get really frustrated with the Jandy phone/web app, and just with Jandy in general (especially their support and lack of good dealers/repair in the area and difficult buying parts online and self-service, etc. The whole "reach out a qualified Jandy service professional" drives me nuts because most of them don't have a clue what they're talking about and most places won't even return calls). Are there substantial Pros/Cons of making a switch from Jandy automation to Pentair automation? Curious who has done it and why, and if you're happy(er)?

I'm running a Jandy RS-P16 with the iAquaLink 3.0 web antenna, along with:

• (2) Jandy PLC 1400 SWGs (not sure if those would work with Pentair automation?)
• (1) Jandy 350k Hi-E2 heater (I'd guess this would work with Pentair automation?)
• (2) Jandy Watercolor LEDs (not sure if those would work with Pentair automation?)
• (3) Pentair VSP pumps (obviously would work with Pentair automation)
• (3) Jandy non-VSP pumps (each turned on/off by a simple relay, so I'm guessing they'd work with Pentair automation?)

Looking for input, thanks.

Hey everyone. We have a 16,000 gallon inground fiberglass pool that you might see from some of my previous posts, if you looked, we have been struggling with. Long story short this is the second summer we have had it. Pool builder installed it in fall of 2021 and it was a swamp after the process. We have a mustard algae problem that keeps coming back every time I think it's gone. We have slammed and slammed and slammed multiple times last summer and this summer so far. I used yellow out as a last resort and followed their process after reading amazing reviews online, and I thought it was gone but it's back. We have an auto cover and I keep wondering if the auto cover is harboring it underneath.

Anyway, the water always looks amazing aside from a couple of places where that seems to pop up after a week of jot slamming. I don't really have any issues keeping the water balanced as it should be in those times - just the occasional minor pH adjustment and that's about it. I think you all can actually see my test results from the TF kit. Sometimes I test and forget to actually log them but everything is pretty consistent.

So after some swimming this weekend my 8-year-old developed a rash everywhere her swimsuit touched and a pretty bad case of swimmer's ear. We went to the pediatrician because she has a history of middle and inner ear infections and she said it looked very much like a case of hot tub folliculitis and asked if we had been in one. The only place we've been is out pool, which isn't particularly hot. It just got up to 89 this weekend. It had been around 83. She said it's possible rare to get from a well balanced pool, which was exactly what I thought. Anyway, due to the ear infection she's treating it if that's what it is and used an antibiotic that will cover both plus antibiotic ear drops.

Coincidentally, or maybe not, I also have been finding a few backswimmer bugs in the pool for the last few days. From what I read, it seems like they like algae but I'm not real sure how they get there or how to get rid of them yet.

So everything I can find regarding pseudomonas is related to a hot tub. The one post I can find about a pool was an above ground pool and all the water leaked out of it in the end anyway.

I'm not sure that that's what it is but I'd like to go ahead and take all the precautions necessary. Considering we have the yellow algae that pops back up every few weeks, I'm obviously a little worried about balance.

Can you all give me any advice on treatment in a pool? Considering that is an inground fiberglass pool it's not particularly easy to drain or we would have probably already tried that for the yellow algae. Someone suggested going through the slam process and then also changing the sand in the filter which I was already considering.

Any advice is appreciated!

Due to the location of my equipment I am looking to switch from sand to cartridge. I am unable to deep clean my sand due to the location of the filter and no easy way to let water overflow the tank. Moving the filter for deep cleaning would not be feasible. Due to this I suspect with time I will have to accept suboptimal filtering or have someone change out the sand every few years ( in my area deep cleaning is not offered that I can find, only changing).

The pool is in it's first season of use. I am wondering without deep cleaning what would be a reasonable length of time to expect the sand to filter well for. Pool season mid may - mid October depending on weather and heater extension.

1) Based on the above when should I look at making the switch to at least make use of the sand before it becomes an issue. After 2-3 seasons?

2) when making the switch what size cartridge would you suggest? From my reading here larger always seems to be better, but I don't want to buy an overly large filter if it is not going to make any difference in terms of cleaning frequency due to the short season. I was initially looking at the Hayward swim clear 425 sq feet when browsing through some.

Thanks

Hi, we installed a 21 inch round pool. It's about 2/3 full of water and we noticed an air bubble by 1 of the support legs. Can we pop the top rail off and push the air out without harming the structural integrity?

I have a Hayward Tristar 2-speed 1.5HP pump on my inground pool. I typically run it on low speed 12hrs a day. I had noticed that when I turn it on high speed this year that it was making a lot of noise like rocks bouncing around inside the pump. Low speed was not that noticeable. I got around to checking it out took the filter basket out etc and stuck my hand into try and turn the impeller. I was able to spin it but was pretty snug, did not feel any debris but can't say how thorough I was since the hole from the filter basket is small. Anyway when I fired the pump back up it seems as though I have lost like 5-10 PSI on the pump. Low speed barely registers above 0 PSI and high speed is now showing around 15-20 PSI. I assume my gauge is fine since it actually is moving and it was probably replaced in last 2 years. Both Hi/Low speeds still moving water but feeling as though I need to run it on high all the time now to get the right turn over. Anyway looking for thoughts if the motor might be going bad or if I should consider replacing impeller all together or something else. To note I have a Hayward Sand filter as well and sand has not been changed in 4 years probably but by the previous sounds coming out of the pump and the sudden change in pressure on the gauge after inspecting the pump certainly seems pump related.

My pool has a SWCG and the pool is open from May-October. In every previous year as the summer progresses the pH creeps up and I have to add MA. This year that has not happened, it has gone down a touch since my pool was uncovered a couple of months ago. Anyone have an idea why this would be? The only reason that I can think of is that we have had more rain than usual and I have not had to add water - after running the pool with water over the skimmer I actually pumped some water out. Could it be acidic rain decreasing my pH.

Ive been noticing a black ring in my skimmer, and my pH levels are kinda unstable. I live in northern Maryland/ anyone else noticing issues?

I have read multiple posts through the years about not relying on SWCG flow switch as primary safety. I have a Core 55 and a Circupool Smartflo 1.5hp VSP. I plan on running them 24/7 and saw that this can help negate the need for a timer or anything.
Problem I have is that last time power went out, pump did not come back on...gave AC under voltage detected. When that happened, I had to unplug pump and plug it back in, so in that case, the SWCG will come back on, and if I'm not home, the pump stays off and I'm relying on flow switch as safety.
any way around that? Can SWCG be wired directly to VSP?

As the title says, we signed up for a new pool install. I've been on this site a few times asking questions for what seems like forever, but more like the last 3yr, so its been a long time.
Some of the info for what we are getting
Inground fiberglass, 10,000 gal, Imagine Freedom pool with 8' splash pad
Heat pump heater, variable speed pump, cartridge filtration
Salt water
Auto cover
Start pool construction Sept. 1 with about 8 week construction.
Obviously, no swimming this year, but primed and ready come next spring, when at that time I will be here daily trying to figure out the pool chemistry. Will be ordering test kit you guys have suggested and doing the BBB chemical thing.
Should be interesting

I am having a very similar problem as described by NC Girl. It took about 3 years from my installation in late 2019 for the problem to arise. The Open Flue Sensor error occurs intermittently and the heater will not work when it occurs. Anyone else have any solutions other than to check every wire socket connection?

Moved from here.

AGP, Heatpump. I just opened the pool and heat pump has a Flo error.

It's a pressure switch sensor. To Troubleshoot I did a test jumper on the board, it turned on. I pulled the feeder hose for the pressure switch and water came out. Both good signs and initially leads me to a bad pressure switch.

But then I noticed my bypass valve seemed to be open. I think, this shouldn't be open unless there is excessive pressure going into the heater. I've never noticed previously if it was open or completely shut.

I do keep the inlet and outlet open when I remove my equipment for the winter. Maybe something got in there, even an animal or something.

I don't know what I should do. Maybe hook the plumbing in reverse to try and flush anything out. I don't even know if anything is there just guessing, still could bee a bad pressure switch.

I do know if u turn the shutoff valve on the output side in the heater it turns on. Which makes sense as pressure increases inside the heater activating the pressure switch.

Any ideas on where to go with this?

Hi,

A few weeks ago i had the same error and back washed my filter and heater came back to life. A week later I got the same code so completely cleaned DE filter and now I get the error codes again. I replaced the ignitor and it is definitely glowing so I'm not sure what else to do now. My pool guy who really doesn't work on equipment said I should just change out control board but he admittedly says he has know idea of what's wrong. I have a multimeter but not manometer. Should I attempt to try and figure it out?

Alright so I have (2) Jandy PLC 1400 SWCGs... I'm only going to focus on the second PLC 1400 for now.

6/12/23
Noticed intermittent error code 123 (only in Reverse Flow, though it's intermittent, so the code isn't always showing every single Reverse Flow mode).

6/14/23
Replaced black power cord going to the cell.

6/15/23
Still showing intermittent 123 errors.
Replaced SWG cell unit (with Jandy/Zodiac brand).

6/17/23
Still showing intermittent 123 errors.
Ordered new back PCB board.

6/20/23
Still showing intermittent 123 errors.
Replaced back PCB board.

6/23/23
Still have not seen any 123 errors since replacing back PCB board. (checking 2-3x per day) - 3 days now, no 123 error

6/28/23
Still have not seen any 123 errors since replacing back PCB board. (checking 2-3x per day) - 8 days now, no 123 error

7/1/23
Still have not seen any 123 errors since replacing back PCB board. (checking 2-3x per day) --11 days now, no 123 error

7/2/23, 7/5/23, and 7/6/23
Suddenly seeing intermittent 121 errors - What the heck.....!?!

To recap so far I've replaced the main SWG cell unit, the power cord, and the back PCB. (I did not replace the Tri-Sensor Interface Module (since flow detection isn't an issue, there hasn't been any reason to)
Stumped here. 121 seems less problematic than 123 was but still doesn't make any sense why I'm getting that suddenly.

ANY IDEAS? (tried to call Jandy support today -- automated message of, "We're too busy, please try calling tomorrow".
Do I need to buy one of those Clamp Meters to be able to verify voltage and amperage during the error-free conditions versus when it's reporting the intermittent 121 error code?


Troubleshooting reference from install guide...



Thankfully my other SWG is still error free for now (was getting 171/189 codes on that cell (fixed by replacing the back PCB) and then later was getting 120 errors (fixed by 50/50 acid washing cell))

Hey y'all,

Confused on instructions. They to use 7.5ml and 15ml mark for tf pro view tube, and 15ml and 30ml for tf100. What is this even talking about? There is no tube marked with 7.5ml.

Also, the red capped cya mixing bottle has no markings on it at all. Directions say to fill red capped cya bottle to 7.5 mark, and the 15ml mark with pool water. Again, no markings on the bottle at all.

Am I missing something?

My pump runs 23 hours per day. Last night I had my deck jets going all night hoping the aeration would cool the pool. My pool was at 93 degrees at sunset and only dropped to 91 by sunrise. The low air temp was 80 last night / this AM.

I’ve been having the deck jets still going all day and the pool is now at 94 degrees and the outside temp ranges from 90-94 depending on the weather app I’m looking at. My pool isn’t deep with minimal shade but it is white. Any ideas short of putting in a chiller? I’m about to start some yard work and there isn’t anything refreshing about jumping in a 94 degree pool afterwards. This is my third summer with the pool and we have never had this issue. Granted the weather lately has been hotter than usual here, but I don’t recall my pool ever getting over 90 degrees. 2 days ago, it hit 96 degrees in the afternoon.

Hi my spa is leaking on the outside rocks of the spa causing the spa to completely drain of water anyone know a route I can take to find the exact location of leak and fix it? Thanks

Any ideas on what kind of fence I could put up to prevent little kids from falling in the pool but still be able to sit on the patio and have good visibility of the pool? I'm not a big fan of the fencing that attaches to the pool wall. I'm thinking something like this picture with a small rolling gate for now until my kids are old enough that I don't have to worry about them falling in. Hopefully someone has a good idea. Thanks!

Somewhere I saw where someone in MI had installed one of these. I'm not understanding why they had to bring in sand lol. Anyway, besides and old carpet, what else can be used that is not terribly expensive but will last to put under the pool along with the padding that comes with it? Thank you. Going to be a challenge but i think my wife and I can do it.

is there any advantage of picking a blue-based stonescapes pebble color (like aqua white) vs a gray one (like French gray)? Will one be more prone to looking dirty over time?

Our old pool at a previous house was white plaster and had all sorts of stains after a decade (was like this when we moved in) and I may be traumatized from that. I’ve never had a pebble finish pool before though so I’m not sure how different it’ll be. I understand with the proper care this shouldn’t happen to any pool, but I’m thinking worse case.

I may have started in the wrong forum.
As in I have an AGP with only 8000 gallons in a 24 x12 intex pool. It appears most have larger IGP. I upgraded to a larger sand filtered pump than the size that came with it. I followed all directions on the install and setup of pump with backwash and rinse first before filtering.
A couple quick questions. The pool store I went to check my water first week said no calcium in an AGP with Vinyl liner. Then the next week they said you need to use Calcium primarily for the pump. They also wanted to use a phosphate remover requiring two backwashes. I was surprised this was needed for a brand new sand filtered pump. I need to know if this is a store I can trust for pool chemistry or if these are just $$ grabbing fluff. Thanks, Larry

The suggested 'Ideal' and 'Recommended' values don't agree with the Hayward recommendations. How do I change them in Pool Math app?

Hi there we have a 18 round pool with a hayward 1 hp pump, i vaccumed it after cleaning and our pressure has dropped from 10ish to 5, just wondering what anyones ideas might be, skimmer is clean , pump basket is clean.

I am following the TFP guidelines this year as far as chlorine levels directly correlating to my CYA levels. Everything is balanced perfectly at the moment as follows:

pH 7.6
FC 7.0
CC 0.0
TA 110
CYA 45-50 (my best guess, it's so subjective this thing "when the black dot disappears")
CALCIUM 210

I test daily and I use liquid chlorine to keep my free chlorine round about 7ppm. It seems that I need to add 1 quart of liquid chlorine (12.5%) every day for my 21,000 gallon pool. Usually I test when I get home from work and the FC reads between 5.2-5.6 or thereabouts everyday so 1 quart usually gets it to 7 or just above. I usually add the chlorine around 7-8pm and let the pool run for a couple of hours more before I shut it off for the night. Then I turn it back on around 8am.

Once a week or less I need to add some muriatic acid (about 16oz split up into two doses) to keep the pH in check. After a few weeks I might add a little baking soda (2-3lbs) to bump the TA back up, and then repeat.

So my question is, does this sound about right? Keeping the chlorine that high each and every day? I am not damaging my pool liner with this consistent higher levels of chlorine? I read that CYA stablizes that specific amount of chlorine so that it shouldn't do any damage to anything. I just want to make sure I am good and hear from some of you who have been doing it this way for years.

I am using a Taylor K-2006C test kit for all my testing.

So yesterday out of the blue, my pool pump was not on. I checked the breaker and it was tripped. I reset the breaker and it tripped instantly. The pump is wired to 115v. I removed the 2 wires from the pump and turned the breaker back on and the breaker remained on. I checked the voltage at the wires by the pump and was getting 115v with the voltmeter. Reconnected the wires and turned the breaker back on and it instantly trips. So I’m guessing something is wrong with the pump. The pump is only 3 years old. Any clue on what I could check next before buying a new pump??

Does anybody have any experience with getting a HeatPro VS Heat and Cool Heat Pump (HP50951T) to work in Cooling mode on an Omni PL system?

My rep didn't activate cooling mode, we didn't think we would need it, but with the temperatures and the pool cover, the pool is turning into a bathtub every day.

I've gone through the settings/config, I click on 'Heat Pump', click on 'Cooling', and it asks if the unit supports cooling, I say Yes to that, then it asks which relay it's connected to. This is likely the issue, however I have tried the 3 relays that are active (2 LV and 1 HV). When I set all of that and the system restarts, I have the option to enable Cooling in the app, and it says that it's cooling, but the heat pump doesn't do anything.

Any ideas?

Drain plug leak the rubber gasket on inside is split. What should I use to seal it?

Moved from here.

I am looking for help in figuring out which salt cell is compatible with my system. I am (completely) a pool dummy. I have a Summer Waves pop-up type pool, 20’x48”, just under 10,000 gallons. I bought a Blue Works BLSC-20 chlorination system September of 2020 to use summer 2021. I think the cell is failing. I have voltage readings of 24.2, amperage of 3.02-3.07, my salinity is 3400. (Although, it does read 0000 at times. I did a salinity strip test that says I have plenty of salt.) The cell appears to be clean so I can only deduce that it has expired.
The issue is that I can’t find a replacement! The model says: BLSC20-BT. I cannot find this cell. The system states that it is compatible with Hayward Goldline AquaRite, SwimPure, AquaRite XL, NatureSoft, SmartPure, Mineral Springs, and Blue Essence Systems. I don’t know if the Blue Works cell is compatible with these or if these cells would work with my Blue Works system!
In addition, I have no clue what the differences are between a t-cell 3, 9, 15 and what is comparable to what I have! Can anyone advise?

So since as mentioned in a prior thread my pool of 16 years rusted out and I have a new one being installed tomorrow.

The old pool was bonded to one of the uprights by the pump, then attached to the pump.

Is it a simple as them just attaching that copper wire to the new upright, or is there something more that's needed or am electrician to do that? All the electrical is existing from when the pool and electric was put in 2006.

I am feeling really discouraged and anxious about my ability to figure pool math out. Sorry in advance for the long status report and question! I have a small 10x30 summer waves pool. My thought was to figure this out then next summer upgrade. I'm ready to say heck with it. Everything seems so complicated. I have a TF pro test kit.
Anyway, I put our pool up not entirely prepared. Realized I did not have stabilizer which is coming today (chlorox granual). The water sat for a day, kids played, before I added anything to it. After that I added liquid shock as my chlorine (3oz). Next day did the same, chlorine read 0. Next day I added clorox balance tabs to raise alkalinity and ph. Also added chlorine. Still reads 0. Last night, my pool was 0 chlorine, ph 6.8 and I tried the alkalinity test and it's either 90 or 110 (directions say it should turn red but was light pink at 9, darker pink at 10 drops? Was this correct? Or should I have kept going until dark pink became red? Etc.)
I am hoping chlorine reading 0 is from lack of cya. But how do I add the granual stabilizer now? (It will have to be mixed in a bucket, no skimmer on pool). And then how do I get chlorine up? I'm scared of creating an ammonia storm. Please help.
I asked my husband for help and he thinks if the water is kind of clear, which it is, let kids swim. But I don't want anyone to get sick.

I am asking for my husband who thinks this is a good idea (and I think it is a terrible idea)... Our pool is CLOSE to needing to be replastered. We are thinking about selling the whole property and hate to put money into real plaster and are afraid the "almost" state of the pool will severely hurt the sale. So he is thinking about a roll on plaster called Sider-Crete. If anyone has heard of it, could you give your opinions on it and on the general idea of a cheap quick do-it-yourself thing like this?