My filter is leaking at the middle junction. I've cleaned the O-ring and lubricated it, made sure top and bottom of the housings are nice and clean and posi-loc ring is on perfectly. Why is it still leaking?

My vinyl liner is leaking. Last fall I was hopeful I got the source when I found a small slice in the liner by the stairs and patched it. But the water dropped below that over the winter. It’s now at the light niche. I had plugged the back of the niche in the fall with putty. While there’s a chance that is leaking, the point where the liner is sealed to the niche is clearly leaking and now that I removed the outer ring I can see the cheap cardboard gasket behind is completely disintegrated. Will buying a replacement cardboard gasket really help to seal it or should I be using something else? (I’m pretty sure the gasket is Hayward Spx0506d) And how best to seal behind the liner? Butyl tape? Putty? I can see water going in behind the liner now that the ring is off. If the back of the niche is leaking I’ll need to fix this first anyway.

Thanks in advance!

It’s about 20+ years old. It’s worse near the deep end. I like the look but it’s hot and flaking off all around the pool. What’s the cheapest route to fix? Can we wait a few years and do liner at the same time ? It’s a kidney pool so the cover tracks would have to come up to too replace .

I thought I've been pretty good this year at doing everything I had to do after changing out my water and tried really hard to not come on here and just do it myself. I tested pretty much at least x 2 days and got my CYA and levels up to where they need to be and I'm having a hard time getting salt cell to create enough FC. It's still under warranty and I'd have to look to see if it's a year or 2 old. I got a Hayward good cell this time around. Since it hasn't been too hot for Phoenix yet and often times cloudy I didn't think I'd have to have the cell turned up too high but I find I keep turning it up higher and longer throughout the day. I've added chlorine to the pool when it's getting close to 2 FC but I want to keep it high right now since we're not swimming anyway-I've learned the hard way enough. Here's what I have it running and if I'm seeing correctly the Chlorine and pump are on at the same times as with the Omnilogic you have to set them separately so I could see how someone could think they have the salt cell running when it's not if the pump isn't also programmed at the same time. One thing I did change was that I had one of the times out of order and I thought that could've waited until a PM and skipped the following AM times just because I had PM programmed 1st.

Here's what I have RN:

Chlorinator 80% 6AM-9AM 3001 RPM
90% 9:01 AM - 3PM 1656 RPM
93% 6pm-9pm 2070 RPM
84% 10pm-6am 1587 RPM

FC 2.0 (then added a gallon of chlorine)
CC .5
pH 7.5
TA 90
CYA 70
Temp 79
CSI -0.36

No signs of algae. Crystal clear water. Thanks!

My m400 in about 6 years old. Any idea or fixes on why one set of tracks move? If I touch the tracks that are inoperative they start up. Any help is appreciated.

Hi, it is nice to be here. Im Looking for tips and problem solving.

I have an older 4000 Pentair 4000 SMBW-4060 DE filter that is in need of a grid replacement. I've searched but can't find a good replacement set. I believe the filter part number is #074925 for the Pentair part. Anybody know if there are other replacement brands and model numbers I can use? What options do I have?

I know this thread is a year old but I have the same problem but I don't have an Intelliflo pump. How do I know whether the com port is good? I'll replace the antenna set if necessary but I'd hate to do that and then have to replace the main board too.

Sorry - this was originally in another thread. So, I have no lights on the receiving antenna and no Intelliflo pump. Do you think this is a com port or an antenna problem and how do I check?

I have a Tristar 900 1.85HP pump for my pool which is somewhere between 25-30k gallons. I just moved into this house and it is the original pool from 1978. I have two 1.5 inch skimmers pulling from the pool and a single 1.5 inch pulling from the spa. The main drain at the bottom of the pool was removed (plugged) by the previous owners. My issue is that I don’t seem to get a good flow rate to keep the pool as clean as I would like. I’m trying to avoid an expensive overhaul, as ideally it would be nice to re-plumb with 2 inch skimmers and add another skimmer and/or drain to the main pool. However, is there something I can do to help? My pump never seems to be fully primed (but no leaks as far as I can tell). The suction lines go from 1.5 to 2 inch and then 90 degrees into the diverter valve. Could this be part of the problem? Should I re-do the plumbing and replace elbows with sweeps? Get rid of the double 45 going into the pump? Would swapping out with sweep elbows help on the pressure side? See pics and thanks for your help.

Pool build is getting ready to be underway. Dig starting next week. What days of construction are must be on-site days. I can take off some days what days should I be here for. I will be home everyday after work.

Questions for you guys. I learned something new every year and this forum has been a great resource.
So I have 15 foot Intex above ground pool with the 2800 series Intex sand filter and I just use the basic Intex skimmer basket that hangs over the side of the railing.
Yes, one day I intend on getting the Hayward skimmer that goes in the side of the pool, but I haven’t done it yet because quite honestly I don’t trust myself to cut a hole in the side of the pool and not end up with leaks lol but that’s another story LOL!!

My question today is when I plug off one of the inlet ports so that the skimmer gets better suction, my pump becomes markedly louder because of the air being sucked in. I have tried using a plug that had the little tiny hole in it to let minimal water through and I have also tried using a plug that was solid to just close it off and I have the same issue. If I have both ports open, the pump is so quiet I forget it’s running and it’s beautiful. But then, of course I get no suction at the skimmer and its effectively not doing its job

So my question.. is this normal? I feel like it isn’t because I can see the air bubbles going through the line and it does cause the pipe to pulse occasionally. And I know that’s not good for the motor.
So what is the trick? Do you guys just bypass that one inlet all together and run one hose straight from the pump to the skimmer port? I currently have it teed off to where one hose is going to each port and then converging in the third hose that goes to the pump.

Opened my pool a few days ago and added chlorine. Today I got around to doing a full test.

FC 14
pH 7.3 (somewhere between 7.2 and 7.5)
TA 50
CH 50
CYA 30
Salt 1800

Clearly I need to add stabilizer. I'll get on that first. I'll probably also get some salt in there. Not sure what to do about the pH. It stayed in the very low 7's all year - never naturally increased. I might add something to bring that up a bit this year. I'll have to read up on that because I believe it impacts alkalinity. First thing's first - to the store for CYA and Salt.

Second issue is a question about salt. My SWG says salt is 2900 and my test says 1800. I try to keep it around 3000 so no doubt I'll put in a bag, maybe two. Question is, does it matter? If the unit thinks it's at 2900, isn't that all that matters? Won't it still keep making chlorine as long as there is actually salt in the water, rather than be 2900 per the unit, or 1800 per my test kit? BTW, my test kit for salt is a 3 or 4 years old. It's always read different from the unit, but would it be worth getting a new test kit, or, basically rely on the unit and put in more salt based on that.

My name is Chris I have been I the pool industry for 20+ years in Pennsylvania doing troubleshooting for pumps, filters, heaters, salt systems, and water issues both common and crazy

Alright this is a long shot I'm sure but can anyone figure out the Make and Model of these steps?
I did see a Post by superdave5599 who at had them in 2023 but there is no info about what the steps are.

So if anyone here can help I would be beyond apperceive

Thank You in advance

I have the TFP test kit and noticed the pool store also measured TDS and phosphate (he said both were ok and the water was in good shape). Numbers were
pH 7.6
FC 5 (I just replaced my SWG and am in the process of titrating the chlorine production %, he said this should be between 0.7 and 3)
TA 90
CYA 70
Phosphate 250? (can't recall exactly but it was the 2nd lowest of the 4 color blocks)
TDS (don't know the number but he said it was fine)

When I've measured calcium hardness it's been 975 or so and draining the pool was recommended here. He said that he wouldn't with a TDS number coming back as normal. What are your thoughts about this? Thanks!

Forgive my etiquette in not introducing myself. I'm CJ, live in Arizona, and have had many pools. I've never done more than the standard maintenance and cleaning a typical owner would do. I have repaired and replaced some parts when needed. My claim to pool fame was a heater repair at my last home.

I'm a retired Army helicopter test pilot and maintenance minded guy. I’ve decided to completely remodel my new home and tear into about anything, and fix/repair, just about everything I think I have the time or desire to. I finally have the time on my hands to learn about pools and have the desire to be a self proclaimed ‘expert’ on my own pool and finally found a forumthat seems to have the knowledge and patience to teach me. Thanks for allowing me to participate.

CJ

@gweston
Hi there! Our house has an Aqualink RS4 controller, Pentair VS pump, Raypak electric heat pump pool heater, and a gas spa heater. The old homeowners gave us manual instructions to operate pool at pump and breaker box, but I’d love to set up WiFi access with Home Assistant to be able to control the pool/spa mode, pump speed and schedule, and heaters if possible.

How can I tell if the IQ-30A module could work for me? If it can, how was the install? I’m no electrician, but I have replaced outlets, fixtures, and fans.

Anyone know of a cordless robot vacuum that can go up and down inclined pool floors but does not climb the pool walls?

My pool walls stay clean and I only need the floor to be vacuumed but a lot of the ones out there that don't climb walls are meant only for flat floors. I'm looking for one that can handle the slope of my pool floor.

Hi, I have a Jandy diverter and one of the screw slots cracked from the outer side. (photos attached) I know snugged it just a bit too hard unfortunately.

Can this cause an air leak? Is there a way to fix it? I read super glue maybe or could a longer screw work on this?

Thank you!!

Chris

Good day to all.
I fired the pool store about 2 weeks ago and JUST completed my second test using the
TF-PRO

I decided to clean the filter before adding CYA
I see all these spots in the filter. Have never seen this in over 15 years of cleaning the filter.

This is a new filter.

By the way, the pool looks clear and good right now.

Please have a look at the photo and my test results. ANY IDEAS ?

Appreciate your thoughts on this.

Thanks

Hi all,
I have started to get the pool going due to increasing temps in SW OH and wanting to avoid mosquito problems.
It's a cartridge Voyager SwimPro with 175sq ft and a 1.5hp single speed Hayward/AO Smith pump. 115V available only.

Pump still runs, but it's a single speed. Wiring looks sketchy at this point and frame very rusted. Not really comfortable doing another season with it.
It's unfortunately a thru bolt 48. I would like to get a VS pump for the efficiency and noise aspects.

For above ground with thru bolt, virtually no replacement motors exist (the pump wet end is in great shape).
I think I'm stuck going with whole new pump. For above ground, the 2 seemingly (under $900) options are the Black&Decker and Doheny's.

B&D:

Doheny's

Which would you recommend?
Which sand filter size should I get (given that I want to ditch the cartridge due to PITA in cleaning)?

Thanks!

When I start my pool, the pump has no prime. It pumps and pumps, and just as the basket fills... the water level collapses, and water stops coming in. When it resets, it starts pumping water in, the level rises... and the same thing happens. I see no obvious sign of a leak. All leaf baskets are empty. I turned off the aerator and vacuum. What else could be the cause?

Long story short. Cover had a hole in it so we didn’t cover this winter because they couldn’t get us a cover made in time. Should I drain and refill or slam. I’m thinking slam but curious what yall think

Hi guys

Anyone have good or bad experience with these pumps (see link below). I have a 25,000 gal pool and looking at installing the Pentair 022056 which has been discontinued. Because of this, I can get it new for under $1500 and also get a $450 rebate from my utility company. Pentair says they would honor the full 3 year warranty if installed by a professional. I’m just worried about availability of parts moving forward. Seems like a smart purchase only if the parts are interchangeable with the newer intelliflo models. Thoughts?

I just converted my pool to a salt water generator (thanks to this forum for advice and help). My pH has been maintained at 7.8 for quite a while before the conversion and I haven’t had any scaling or cloudiness. My family has sensitive skin and I really want the pH to be closer to 7.4 but 7.5 is okay. Does this Orenda screenshot look like a reasonable goal? I just took all the current measurements with a Taylor kit.

I'm looking into purchasing a saltwater generator. Not looking to break the bank but also want quality. Ive read you want to get 2x the size. Current setup is 19k - 20k estimate. It's a 27 ft x 54 inch. What does everyone recommend

I came across HTH Super Shock at Costco. They’re granules but cal hypo and don’t contain CYA. Are those safe to use or does anyone have any experience with it?

The board in my hottub went and I am trying to find a replacement, but I am not sure about the specifics. My board is a Balboa V500z P/N22972_E. My hottub has two pumps, a heater (of course), LED lights (that I dont care about), a speaker system (which again I don't care about), and an ozonator (I think its called). Its also 240.

I have seen many boards that are VS500 and VS501. Are they interchangeable? For example, will this one work?


Also, if it says NO AIR BLOWER, does that mean it wont make the bubbles?

Looking to upgrade from a single speed pump to a Hayward vsp. My liquid chlorine plaster pool is around 20k gallons and has one skimmer rated at 55gpm. Filter is Hayward DE 6020 and heater is Hayward 400K. In the not too distant future I plan on installing an Aquarite S3 Omni system.

Should I go for the 900 or 950, and for what reasons? I’m also unsure how you determine pump run time and at what speed. I live in SoCal so my pool gets plenty of sun…