• Sticky
Featured TFP Pool of the Month (May 2025) - "Cannonball!" - Family Fun

So easy! Post ONE pic related to the theme title above. I bet you have a good pic saved somewhere. See the contest rules below to enter.

PLEASE READ OUR (UPDATED) RULES BEFORE POSTING! ----> TFP Pool of the Month Contest Rules
1746100677043.png

Photo contests are announced on the first of each month. There is a 5-day submission phase. Days 6 & 7 are for voting. Winner announced on day 8. Winner eligible for a $50 prize.
1746100810020.png

It's easy! What have you got to lose? You might receive a $50 discount code from TFtestkits.net.

Click Here to See Some Previous TFP Monthly Contest Winners

Omnilogic and Hayward Aquarite

My T-15 cell is nearing it's end of life, and to maximize it's potential, I tried switching the cell type from T-15 to T-9 on my OmniLogic controller. When I did this, the PPM increased by about 400, however on the Aquarite diagnostic display it's still showing T-15. I'm not sure if I should attempt to change the cell type on the Aquarite itself, I'm a little worried that I'll somehow get it out of remote mode if I try to do that. FWIW, the Aquarite does show the output that I have set in my OmniLogic.

My Jandy VS pump sounds terrible after only 6mo use

New pool in fall of 2023, so I only got 6 mo use out of my Jandy pump last summer. Opened the pool up last week, and the pump is screeching high pitched whine something terrible.

Notified the pool company and they said the 12 mo warranty is up. So I need a new pump after 6 mo of use. Do I get another Jandy just because the plumbing would match up?

Or is Jandy a crappy brand and I should get something better. Sure don't want to replace a pump every spring.
IMG_1124.jpg

Need Recommendation for Hayward W3T-CELL-15 Replacement Supplier

Hi everyone,
I’m looking to replace my Hayward W3T-CELL-15 TurboCell Salt Chlorination Cell (for a pool up to 40,000 gallons) and would love your input.

Has anyone here recently bought one from a reliable supplier with fair pricing and fast shipping? Only interest if it’s a genuine part and not a knockoff.

Appreciate any links, names, or tips you can share. Thanks in advance!

M

Hayward Superpump to Calimar install

I'm going from a Hayward SP to Calimar VS pump and I see in the specs that there is a .2" difference in the center line of the hayward vs the Calimar. Am I looking at replumbing the whole inlet or is it possible to make it work with the existing plumbing? I've currently got 1.5" pipes so I'll need to use the appropriate unions as well. Thanks!

Need new robot

Hello All! It looks like I need a new robot. Have a Dolphin M400 about 9 years old. Stopped working last year. My son in law repaired it with a new cord, circuit board and other parts. Worked fine for a while now it stopped working again. I don't want to mess with it again.

I am happy with the performance of the robot and would like to buy another dolphin. I see models on Amazon from $799 CCplus to $1499 for the premier model. I do not need any fancy WiFi features or a bunch of wireless stuff I will never use. I just want a robot I can drop in the pool and have it do a great job cleaning. Any recommendations? Will the $799 cleaner do a good job or do I have to buy the more expensive model? Thanks!

HELP - The house we bought has major issues - Old vinyl liner, massive leak, wall heave / bowing - How can we fix it, and what do we do?

Hello all!

We have just moved into a house with a new 16x34 ft in-ground pool with a vinyl liner.
We live in Canada so there was significant amounts of snow and ice, so we could not fully examine the pool before buying the house. We knew that the vinyl liner was quite old, and needed to be replaced, yet we have some new unanticipated findings and are hoping to get advice.

Obviously, hindsight is 20:20, and I should have known better and should have put significantly more conditions on the house needing a properly functioning pool in the spring, yet I'm just trying to focus on the future and trying to get as much advice as possible.

THE PROBLEM - Vinyl liner, massive leak, wall heave:
The vinyl pool liner is also very brittle and has cracked and is floating in some areas. So certainly the liner needs to be replaced asap.

It sounds like there is a large patch on the deep end where an old main drain was patched over and probably not properly sealed. When I started vacuuming all the leaves, there is now a very substantial leak! The water level is decreasing by approximately 1 ft per day! Our sub-pump in our house has been going off every few hours because the water is draining into the collection reservoir.

The concrete pad is not connected to the pool or the coping and so the two are independent which apparently is more common in older pools? Two walls are starting to heave and is approximately 2" displaced forward from the concrete pad of the pool. Therefore, it's impossible to know when the wall has started to heave from the concrete pad above and if this is an ongoing issue as it could have occurred very recently or potentially has been stable for many, many years like this.

WHAT SHOULD I CONSIDER?
I guess now that we have noticed these issues it's easy for my mind to wander and think what else could be wrong with the pool.
There are some larger trees in our neighbor's yards and so with the numerous patches that have occurred over the years, I do wonder if potentially trees could be causing issues themselves.
Probably it is just the prior owners just patching things and not dealing with the issues as they came up.

SOLUTIONS?
We have three local pool companies coming out in the next two days and one company that is already come out and recommended that we replace the vinyl liner, which makes sense.
They also said because the concrete of the deck is not attached to the coping or the steel wall that the deck should be demolished and poured again and connected to bullnose coping. He said he would do this to add structure and support to the walls so they don't heave in more. Sound reasonable?
They also said they would put in braces and frames in the areas where it is heaved forward. I believe they were called x-frames but I can't recall the specifics. He did not give a price point on this as it depends what it looks like and how involved it will be.
Right now I have a quote as follows (in Canada): vinyl liner $7,500, remove and pour concrete $8,500, bullnosed coping $2,000, and then replacing the skimmer basket, and some odds and ends and the the total is $22k + whatever bracing is needed. The timeline would be 3 months away before they can do it.

QUESTIONS:
1) How dangerous and bad is it that the pool is going to be draining near the basement, and the sub pump is going off?

2) Once the water has completed draining out of the pool, depending on where the water table level is, would it be bad to rip out the very old and brittle vinyl liner and see what is behind it?
I'm very interested to see the bottom of the pool and so if the water table and water level does not allow me to fully access and visualize the bottom of the pool canI pump it off visualize it and then refill water back to the water table level or would that be dangerous for the structure of the pool?

3) There was also talk of demolishing the concrete deck, and then I could dig down by the seams where it is starting to heave to try to relieve some of the pressure until the work can actually be done.
Right now we have 2x6s bracing the pool, which can be seen in the photos. Does this look adequate or should I add more? Or do you think this is overkill?

4) How ridiculous would it be to just replace the vinyl liner and then follow along and see if the wall starts to move or heave at all in the future? (and thus not touch the concrete pad that is independent)

5) Would the bulnose coping provide enough structural support to prevent heaving in the future?
Should I be worried about the bulnose coping failing sometime in the future and then needing to replace the patio concrete again?

6) Also, how much is time of the essence in terms of fixing this? The prior quote is for September. We won't be moving into the house because of other renovations, so we wouldn't miss out on a pool season as we have our current house has pool, but I don't love the idea of having a completely empty pool sitting there for numerous months. Someone said they probably have availability in the next month or so. How much of a price premium should we be paying for this?

7) How much of this work do you think we could do by ourselves (as if it's just elbow grease a jackhammer, wheelbarrows, Etc I would be comfortable if we are bringing down the cost)?
Anything else that I should be asking the future pool people in terms of input and pricing and ideas?

Okay, that is probably way too many questions, but as you can tell, my mind has been racing, and I certainly would love any ideas for input or advice or what to be asking the other pool places.

Certainly, I can provide more information and clarification if needed.
I will take you along on this ride as I go through it.
Certainly a stressful and memorable ride, and hopefully not too ridiculously expensive.

Attachments

  • WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.45.58_5ba1a1bc.jpg
    WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.45.58_5ba1a1bc.jpg
    375.6 KB · Views: 9
  • WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.45.58_8ec3b04e.jpg
    WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.45.58_8ec3b04e.jpg
    193.5 KB · Views: 9
  • WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.46.00_4aa8ff2f.jpg
    WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.46.00_4aa8ff2f.jpg
    253.7 KB · Views: 9
  • WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.46.00_5a7309ae.jpg
    WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.46.00_5a7309ae.jpg
    230.8 KB · Views: 9
  • WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.46.00_85d7d843.jpg
    WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.46.00_85d7d843.jpg
    277 KB · Views: 9
  • WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.46.00_177e2ea1.jpg
    WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.46.00_177e2ea1.jpg
    288.8 KB · Views: 9
  • WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.46.01_7b7e310d.jpg
    WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.46.01_7b7e310d.jpg
    329.3 KB · Views: 9
  • WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.46.01_c3dcbaee.jpg
    WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.46.01_c3dcbaee.jpg
    361.4 KB · Views: 8
  • WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.46.02_1e855a8c.jpg
    WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 04.46.02_1e855a8c.jpg
    107.4 KB · Views: 9

Taking Control

Hello fellow pool owners! I have lived in Florida for the past 13 years and have owned a pool for 10 of those years. Even though I know some of the basics of pool maintenance, I have mostly used a pool service to maintain the pool. Partly because of my busy schedule and partly because I just didn't want to deal with it. Well... we recently purchased a new home and my wife stated she wanted to save the monthly expense and take care of the pool ourselves. Unfortunately, the previous homeowner did not take care of the pool very well and did some incorrect DIY work. We're working with a local pool maintenance company to get things straight but we ultimately want to maintain the pool ourselves. We converted our last pool to saltwater and loved it. Our current pool is saltwater but we need to update the SWG system and eventually update the pump and add a heat pump. I'm sure I'll be posting in the forums as we look to purchase the SWG so we can start enjoying the pool in the Florida summer heat!

Liner floating up

Took cover off and discovered the liner floating up. Checked the sump pit and it was working properly.

Decided to pull the liner off it's tracks a little to drain behind the liner with a transfer pump. Noticed the pool water in the liner start lowering too. Panicked and stopped the pump then re filled the water to the middle of skimmers.

Placed some blue masking tape at the water level and let it sit. Water level decreased just under an inch in 24hrs. Can't see any obvious tear. The water is green from winter.

Tossed a lot of bleach in it and ran 24 hours still cloudy but shallow end looks good. Water level fell below skimmer level so cycled the pool with drain only for another 24 hours. Water level didn't move much after that from the blue masking tape mark but the liner did float back up in the mean time.

Don't see a tear at the current water level and more or less pool appears to stopped losing water at a level about two inches under skimmer. Water did not change much with floor drain only running. Safe to say my leak is in the skimmer or plumbing to the pump itself?

As it stands pool still green with liner floating. Should I just pay for a leak test at the two skimmers? Would a leaking skimmer cause the liner to float?

2 quotes for liner replacement. One at 6.3k and the other 7k over the phone. Pool is 20x40, 2 skimmers 1 floor drain and 2 return jets.

Or should I just go ahead and pump all the water out from behind the liner and refill?

Replacing a Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP pump with a Jandy FloPro 2.7 HP motor

My Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP pool pump has been slightly leaking and it is making sound while running and also getting hot. So, I am looking to replace it with a Jandy FloPro 2.7 HP motor. I bought the motor almost new and housing used from someone. However, the backplate within the housing has a screw stuck in it, so I may not be able to use it, but if I need to use it, I need to buy new diffuser and backplate. So I am investigating if I can use my current pentair's housing with this pump. I have the below questions:

1. Will the current Pentair housing fit the Jandy motor I bought?
2. Will my aqualink system will work with the Jandy motor and will I be able to control the variable speed of the new Jandy VSP motor if it is connected to my existing aqualink system? Currently I use an app to switch on and off the current motor and the app connects to the aqualink 2.0 device attached to the aqualink RS system via Wifi.
3. The current pipe diameter I have is 2 inch. Is my new 2.7 HP pump too powerful for my current pipes?
4. The current pool filter I have is a Hayward C1200. Will the new 2.7 HP pump be too powerful for my current filter?

Here are the details of the equipment I have:
Old pump:
Model name: Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP (Model SF-N1-1A/340038)
Motor model number: 196238
Housing model number: 350089 or 354704 REV D (not sure)

Current Pipe Diameter: 2 Inch

Current Pool Filter: Hayward 1200

Current Power center: Aqualink RS Power Center (Model 6612F or 6613/6613AP)
iAqualink 2.0, Aqualink: REV T.2, FW Rev: 4.0.6-w

Current Time Switch with Transformer: Intermatic Model T10004RT1

New Pump:
Model name: Jandy FloPro 2.7 HP (Possibly model#VSSHP270DV2A)
Motor model number: B0245806
Housing model number: VSSHP270DV2A (The backplate and diffuser are damaged and might need to be replaced if I need to use this)

Any help is really appreciated.

76718913199__6B5487FD-0E9D-451E-B4D8-80444F481B1B.jpeg

Attachments

  • 76718914237__6AEA74DE-3F70-4654-B8BE-CD309FD2A906.jpeg
    76718914237__6AEA74DE-3F70-4654-B8BE-CD309FD2A906.jpeg
    429.2 KB · Views: 4
  • IMG_5579.jpeg
    IMG_5579.jpeg
    493.5 KB · Views: 3
  • IMG_5571.jpeg
    IMG_5571.jpeg
    643.2 KB · Views: 2
  • 76719152067__32AA8AF8-3C4B-4EE8-A4A4-DEA27827AD43.jpeg
    76719152067__32AA8AF8-3C4B-4EE8-A4A4-DEA27827AD43.jpeg
    555.6 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_5571.jpeg
    IMG_5571.jpeg
    643.2 KB · Views: 2
  • WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 02.16.57.jpeg
    WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 02.16.57.jpeg
    432.3 KB · Views: 2
  • WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 02.16.57 (1).jpeg
    WhatsApp Image 2025-05-01 at 02.16.57 (1).jpeg
    389.3 KB · Views: 3

The Chlorine Mystery - two brand new chlorinators, balanced water, no chlorine

Long time lurker, first time poster, be gentle :)

The chlorine in my pool keeps dropping down to 0 after installing two different brand new chlorinators. Tried everything, including pre-emptive phosphate starver treatement. Help... :(

Historically used vintage metal box Kchlor AC20 non-self cleaning chlorinator kept the chlorine well, then failed.

Two months ago I replaced it with Freeflo RP25 self cleaning chlorinator. Water chemistry tests were balanced and salt level ok as confirmed by tests in three different pool shops. The chlorinator produced a lot of bubles, but the chlorine kept dropping down to zero after I top it up with liquid chlorine. Returned chlorinator after 1 month.

A month ago pool shop installed AstralPool E25 self cleaning chlorinator. Water chemistry tests were balanced and salt level ok as confirmed by tests in three different pool shops. The chlorinator produces a lot of bubles, but the chlorine keeps dropping down to zero after I top it up with liquid chlorine.

Total Cl: 0.16
Free Cl: 0.09
Combined Cl: 0.07
Salt: 4878
Ph: 7.5
Alk (adj): 110
Cya: 61
Hardness: 345
Phosphates: 0
Total Cu: 0

35,000 litre, concrete pool, in-ground, plaster, blanket
Sand filter, more than 10 years old
Peristaltic HCL doser
Solar heating was on, now off with the same result
Non-variable pumps, more than 10 years old
AstralPool E25 self cleaning
Chlorinator at maximum setting
Robot pool cleanter
Running 8 hours a day (8 am to 12 pm, 1 pm to 5 pm)
Water clear, but goes murky if I stop manually adding liquid Cl every day

Not sure if it is relevant, but the first two chlorinators used to produce white powder (CaCO3?) ouf the jets, the third one does not.

https://www.poolbarn.com.au/wp-cont...905-H0712400_REVB-AstralPool-Eseries-2023.pdf

I am aware that testing water yourself using Taylor test kit is more precise and I am planning to buy it in the future, but at this time I am relying on pool shop tests. I have tested water in three different pool shops who are using different test equipment with results showing similar results of balanced water and acceptable salt levels.

Your help will be greatly appreciated.

Can an AGP return jet be too close to a ladder?

Drawing up deck / patio plans for my 18 ft AGP. We're replacing the a-frame ladder with a generic deck-mount resin one. Not big steps, just what I would call a basic normal ladder.

Where we want to put the ladder is immediately next to the return jet eyeball. Other than physically blocking the jet with the ladder leg, is there much to concern myself over here? Can it end up too close?

MS Paint rendition

1746067766095.png

Aiper Scuba S1 First Impressions

Hello all,

I'm still a relatively new pool owner, just have about 2 months under my belt so I'm still getting my bearings in some areas. Pool chemicals are balanced and stable though, and that's what matters. Anyway, I got tired of manually vacuuming the pool, and having the cartridge get clogged up often because of it. It was getting to the point that as I was vacuuming I could see debris coming out of the returns. Just frustrating. Maybe I'm doing something wrong or my cartridge isn't functioning properly. Or maybe that's just par for the course with vacuuming directly into the pump.

Enter the Scuba S1. After a lot of research, and mostly decent reviews of the product here I decided to pull the trigger. It arrived today, and the box was honestly pretty beat up. I was surprised because it came FedEx, and I ordered it directly from Aiper. Interior packaging was solid though, and the unit was unharmed. After a quick charge to full I threw it into the pool on auto mode. We all watched it work on the walls for a minute, and it appeared to be doing a fine job. It came up and scrubbed the tile line for probably 5 seconds before heading back down. Then we wanted to see it work the floor so I put it on floor only mode, and it instantly started picking up debris. The pool wasn't terribly dirty, I just vacuumed it this past weekend, but after running for about 2 hours I fished it out because it was getting dark and I was curious. It was showing a yellow light, so it used most of the battery. I was honestly pretty surprised at how much it picked up, especially all the sand you can see in the bottom left of the basket. I'll be picking up the ultra fine cloth filter when it gets released for this model, but I am very pleased with the first run, and more pleased that I'll be able to swim without cleaning the pool when the weekend comes around.

Tomorrow morning I'm going to drop it in on the eco mode, which is supposed to clean for 45 minutes every 48 hours and we'll see how well it maintains the pool. This weekend I'll send it on a walls mission when I have time to watch how it progresses.

Attachments

  • IMG_7779.jpeg
    IMG_7779.jpeg
    569.1 KB · Views: 5
  • IMG_7780.jpeg
    IMG_7780.jpeg
    469.4 KB · Views: 4
  • IMG_7781.jpeg
    IMG_7781.jpeg
    489.2 KB · Views: 5
  • IMG_7783.jpeg
    IMG_7783.jpeg
    488 KB · Views: 5
  • Like
Reactions: JJ_Tex

AquaPlus "No Cell Power/No Cell Power 1" error

I put a new salt cell (Generic T-15) on my AquaPlus system. I'm getting "Chlorinator Off, No Cell Power" and "Check System, Cell Power 1" error messages. Read pretty much all the stuff here and elsewhere. Replaced the GLX-PCB-Pro mainboard with a new one. Changed the 20A fuse to 15A before starting up. Replaced Rectifiers. Transformer voltages seem fine. None of the mainboards appeared to have scorch marks or cold solder joints. I got the last new board to run for about 4 days and things seem fine. Now that board is giving me the errors. I also tried my old salt cell without luck.
I can't think of anything else at this point. I'm considering returning the mainboard and salt cell and trying yet again but I'm starting to have my doubts whether something else is going on. Any ideas?

Air in the line?

I opened the pool about a month ago and everything has been fine. Today, before my daughter and I went for a swim, I connected the vacuum to the skimmer to give the floor a quick clean. At the end of our swim, we noticed that the returns were spitting out air intermittently. I stopped the pump. Opened the pump. Cleaned the basket. Backwashed the filter. Hours later, every few minutes or so, there will be a sputter.

Any ideas?

Connect Intellichlor to Pentair Pool App

Hello,

Any idea how to add the intellichlor to the Pentair pool app? I have an Intelliconnect and have been able to add the whisperflo, master temp and light no problem, but I added the intellichlor following the prompts in the app and it is on my dashboard with no control. Any ideas? Here’s are couple screenshots for reference. Thanks in advance.

Attachments

  • IMG_2048.png
    IMG_2048.png
    207.1 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_2046.png
    IMG_2046.png
    164.6 KB · Views: 6

Jandy Actuator & Spillover Feature

I recently had the two actuators replaced do to faulting wiring (the pool/spa main drain suction and pool/spa return actuators). When the new actuators were replaced on both the “spillover” feature that usually retuned water from the spa to the pool is now opposite. When I turn on the spillover feature the Jandy actuator actuates the pool/spa return water and return water to from the POOL to the SPA and NOT the main drain suction as it did before from SPA to POOL. The dip switch #3 is turned on as well. Could it be the actuators were placed in the wrong AUX on the iAqualink?

To give you some context of our pool and spa setup. The pool and spa are two bodies of water running on the same filter pump. They are on a schedule and alternate filtration on different times of the day. The main filter pump runs 24hrs per day and also adjusts RPM's throughout the day as well.

I hope all this makes sense.....

Pool equipment setup:
  • Jandy Filter Pump - both pool and spa on same pump
  • Jandy Heater for both pool and spa
  • Jandy SWG for both pool and spa
  • Jandy Actuator value on main drain/pool/spa suction
  • Jandy Actuator value on pool/spa return
  • Cyclone filter/Jandy pump for rain curtain
  • Jandy pump for secondary water feature

Upgrade Options?

I was thinking about upgrading a very aged pool pump.
Currently i have a Hayward Super 2 with a 1.65hp motor.

I was looking at the Hayward W3SP3206VSP TriStar Variable-Speed Pool Pump with the 2.7 HP motor.
Its pricey...

Does anyone have any other recommendations?
Something that can work ok with a ProLogic controller.
Think right now my pumps are all wired for 240v.

I really don't care about name brand. I really value references from here more, even if its some offshoot brand i never heard of.

Opened pool, tested CYA with it possibly being under 30

Opened the pool for the summer and first thing I tested was the CYA for SLAM.

As this test is my least favorite, I did it multiple times and it trended towards Barley being able to see it past the 30 mark in the tube. (The solution was just at the top of the tube)

I added 1 gallon of LC to get started, brushed the pool and called it a day. What is the recommendation for the CYA so I can get started for SLAM. (I know i have to be at a minimum of 30)

Sun ledge/baja shelf build

We're doing a pool remodel and would like to add a baja shelf/sun ledge. I didn't realize there were so many different methods to build the ledge. Our pool is 20x40 and we wanted our ledge to be 9x8 in the shallow end. It would be approximately 3 ft tall. Our contractor said there are 3 options:
1. Use cinder blocks to build the wall (with rebar). Fill the ledge with our old concrete coping (smashed up). Cover with 6 inches of concrete on top.
2. Build wall using concrete mold (with rebar). Fill the ledge with gravel or our old concrete coping. Cover with concrete on top.
3. Build rebar cage. Fill with concrete.

Can you share your thoughts on these options? Thank you!

Just opened pool, Ph > 10 and CC = 5.5

Hello again,
We just opened our pool in CO for the 4th season and the chemicals seem to be at their worst. The company that opened our pool on Monday said the Ph was really high (not sure if/how they tested it) and put 64 oz of 20' muriatic acid in. They also put in 2 lbs of 54% cal-hypo shock. I was busy and didn't run my own tests that day (two days ago). I ran my test today and holy cow, things are a mess. I'm mostly concerned with the CC level as I tested twice and got 5.5 and 6.0. That would suggest that my break-even chlorination level is 55! That's >9 lbs of shock and that just feels like a bad idea.

My main question is- do I just drain the pool and start over? Below are my full readings as of today. For now, I'm trying to bring down the Ph and then will work on the CC based on the advice I get here. Thx for any advice!

FC- 0.5
CC- 5.5-6.0
Ph- it was purple. It took 7 drops of R015 to get to about 7.4. That suggests 70 oz of acid but I put in 50 to start and will recheck tomorrow morning. I also turned the pump up to 2,300 RPM.
TA- 130 (for some reason my TA always goes up over short periods of time. It was 80 when I closed the pool in October. Hopefully addressing the Ph situation will get me back down around 100 and I'll go from there)
CH- 370
CYA- zero. I plan to address this after the Ph and chlorine concerns. This was 60 when I closed the pool.
Salt- 3,000. I plan to address this after the Ph and chlorine concerns. This was 3,200 when I closed the pool.
Temp- 68
CSI- pool math can't calculate it given the Ph level

Pentair Valve Actuator Acting Reversed

I have the Pentair Intellicenter, and noticed this year when opening the pool the Pentair Laminar Deck Jets were turning on even though I didn't have that feature activated. When looking at the IntelliValve the programming looks to have switched on me. How do I adjust it so the when the Laminar feature is "off" in the Intellicenter that the valve is set to run the pool jets? I've been reading a bit, and not finding the answer. I tried changing the set modes on the IntelliValve, but that didn't seem to work. Temporarily I've been just putting it in service and manually moving it, lol.


1746053541291.png1746053765278.png

How high do you let CH go?

In Phoenix and our water is very hard which means high CH. I’ve been lazy all winter about keeping logs but CH is nearing 1000 ppm. Phoenix CCR has fill water hardness anywhere from 150-350. Pool was just built, and filled, November 2023 so about a year and a half with the same water.

How high do you let CH go and keep CSI managed vs succumbing to the water exchange? I’d hate to have to do a water exchange every year but the calcium is out of control.

Wide mouth skimmer basket

Hello. Let me introduce myself.

My name is Nick, and a couple years ago I bought a home with a 24’ above ground pool. I’ve learned as I’ve went.

Last year I (regrettably) left some water in the skimmer and it froze and cracked.

I ordered a new skimmer from Amazon, and it’s not tall enough and the holes don’t match. It seems the hole size is similar, but my old one seems to have a large bezel.

My concern isn’t necessarily this, it’s that there are screws behind the bezel thru the aluminum behind the liner holding the skimmer on.

Any one have any idea how to remove those without damaging the liner? Also anyone have a direct replacement?

Filter