Hi all- we moved into a house recently that had a pool so I have just been a pool owner for 2 months. I did not grow up with a pool so I have taught myself what I can from this site so thank you!

Our pool is surrounded by gardens, mulch, grass as well multiple trees, including a large tree which hangs over the pool so there are leaves in the pool often. I find myself out there brushing daily, if not twice a day as it gets dirty pretty quickly after each brushing (will get a robot next year to help with the cleaning). I hired a pool company since I was brand new and so far they have said it is just organic matter settling and no algae. I also do my own testing now but when I brought my water to Leslies earlier this summer, they had the phosphates over 4000.

I don't mind putting the work in and understand maintenance is part of the gig but I wanted to write to you guys and make sure the constant brushing is typical for a pool in an environment described above and not something else that need to be addressed. The water itself has always been clear. Here are some photos and my latest taylor test results

thanks for all the information so far!

PH 7.4
FC9
CYA 60
TA 80

Heater is not drawing gas but not giving error - dirty filter

Hi folks.

I have a new pool with new heater and salt system with iAquaLink automation

Pool has been working great the last 2 months but today I turned the heater on and have noticed that although the app says it’s heating temps aren’t going up.

I went outside and noticed no gas is being drawn from the natural gas connection but the heater (Jandy Pro Series) isn’t showing any sort of
Error.

I noticed that my cartridge filter is “dirty”. Could this be the cause? Wouldn’t there be some sort or error on the machine or in the app?

Okay so I ordered a new pump as mine froze this winter & stopped working. I got a 1HP Aquastrong pump. Here's the catch, the inlet & outlet are both 2" openings. My hoses to & from my pool (above ground Coleman Swim Vista) are 1 1/5". I know I need some schedule 40 pvc, however the "reducer" (Lowes calls it an adapter coupling don't ask me why) is sort of small. Would it be smart to get a short piece of PVC & connect it to the pump, then put the reducer on that to connect my hoses to?? HELP. Not a plumber & husband won't be home from work until tonight. Trying to get this done to get my pool cleaned, I set up my sand filter & pump all on my own. I know I can do this too however, I just want to make sure my approach is right.

Thank you!!

We have been successfully maintaining our pool through out this summer using using liquid chlorine at 10% and muriatic acid. I have Taylor test kit and use it faithfully. I was talking a friend that is in the pool maintenance business and told be that adding liquid chlorine adds salt to the water and can cause salt levels to be too high which can be corrosive. He is recommending a Taylor Test kit K1766. I do not have a SWG.

My question is do I really need to be concerned about this?

Thanks!

When I do the alkalinity test. When I mix chemical 7 and 8 it turns purple not green

the problem has been solved...thanks for the help

Construction of our 15000 gallon gunite pool ended about a month ago. It has a salt water chlorine generator, but the salt hasn’t been put in yet. We brushed it twice a day for 2 weeks. The plaster is supposed to be Pebblefina Acquos, but it doesn’t look like it, and I don’t think the flecks were sprinkled into it during plaster. It looked pretty blotchy and still does. We did not get into it until a week after plaster and were very gentle on it during this time. The pool builder hired a maintenance company to take care of chemicals for two weeks. They only came 3 times in those two weeks. After their last visit, I tested the water with the test kit the builder gave us. There was no chlorine in it, the pH was over 8 (that’s as high as the kit reads), and the TA was 110.

I wasn’t sure if those results were valid, because the kit had been left outside for a while. I went and bought the Taylor K2006 and the test results were the same. I did not elect to hire the pool company after this, because they did not add anything during their final visit, when it clearly needed chemicals.

I added about 1/3rd gallon of chlorine that evening, and it was gone the next day. I also added muriatic acid by diluting into a bucket and pouring around the edge of the pool, then brushing to stir and clean the plaster. After doing this, we noticed even more white blotchy staining the next day.

We then went on vacation and I simply told the person staying at our house to check chlorine levels and add a half gallon when low. It consistently is gone almost as soon as it’s put in.

Question is, does the plaster blotching go away? I tested CYA today and there’s none. Any suggests for adding?

Sharing my pool info here from Pool Math:

==========================================
Oasis
------------------------------------------
Build Type: Plaster
Volume: 15000 gallons
------------------------------------------
Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 0.0 (13 minutes ago)
CC: 0.0 (13 minutes ago)
pH: 8.2 (13 minutes ago)
TA: 110 (13 minutes ago)
CYA: 0 (13 minutes ago)
TEMPERATURE: 80° (14 days ago)
==========================================
------------------------------------------
Test Results 06-25-2023 @ 09:08 PM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 0.0
Combined Chlorine: 0.0
pH: 8.2
Total Alkalinity: 110
CYA: 0

Good morning. I have some yellow mustard algae. Vacuumed , brushed, scrubbed, repeat. Difficult to eradicate. Raised the CL to 30, not maintaining on OCLTs, drops to 22. Due to heavy rains and storms, hadn’t checked in a day. Dropped to 17, and maintains at that. Water clear, no sign of algae..yet. So, according to my (original) instructions on the DPD/FAS, I can further test at 25 ml with 1 heaping scoop, then multiply by .2. Tried with 2 level scoops DPD powder on both 10ml and 25 ml. Getting very different readings. Cl today 17, and 14.8 respectively. Prior to SLAM, readings were approximately CL 6, CC 0, pH 7.6, TA 100, CH 100, CYA 45, Borates 35, water temp. 82°. These readings were with the 10 ml. So which CL reading do I go by? I use Pool Math. Thank you!

For closing the pool this fall I always use pool safe anti freeze. I saw this at Home Depot for a fairly low price. Says on bottle that it is safe for swimming pools. But the description says …. 128 fl. oz. Ethyl Alcohol -50°F Universal Non- Potable RV Antifreeze. Is Ethel alcohol safe to use or should I spend more for alcohol free. ? They have it for $3.98/gal vs $7 plus.​

Thanks
Rich

Anyone know how to get the tracks off of a Maytronics M600? Mine are worn to the point that the robot doesn't have the same traction as before.

So I've had a new pool cleaner for a few weeks now and it vacuums and brushes the floor, walls, and water line. Does a very nice job. My question is do I still need to brush my pool? I'm running the cleaner at a minimum of 2 days a week. Thanks?

Good afternoon,
My pool service company indicated they found 1000 parts per million (PPM) of salt in our pool. The pool is chlorinated not a saltwater system. Is it a problem? Seems to me that's well below the level to make any difference. I realize salt does not evaporate but over time, seems like backflushing, hydro vacuuming and tropical storms deluging the pool should certainly remove the salt. Pool is a 38,000 gallon, in-ground Gunite. Your assistance is appreciated.

I have an Autopilot RC-42 doing about 1.52 output per day.

I also have a ~42,000 - 45,000 gallon pool. I'm not quite sure because checking between schematics and actual pool there's some slight differences but this measurement has been what I've successfully used for chemistry.

I completed SLAM and now am letting FC levels drop from 30 -> 8. I'm noticing I'm losing somewhere around. 3 - 4 ppm FC a day. But how am I supposed to replace that much FC if my SWG produces such little chlorine? If I use the pool math calculator at 4 hours I'll have raised FC by 0.8. With 8 hours it's 1.5. I don't see how apart from running the SWG 24/7 I will match the FC loss. So does the FC loss come down the closer it gets to the level the CYA can support?

I started with a CYA of 0 pre-SLAM and have worked up to 50 CYA. I'm hesitant to get to 70 too quick but have the CYA ready to be added slowly over the course of 2 weeks because the CYA takes 48 hours to properly adjust.

This is my 2nd year with the pool and I FINALLY found the source of my algae and repeated SLAM, so I want to do this absolutely right and never worry about this pool again.

Test Results:
FC: 17.5->16.5ish overnight, I say ish because it's slightly higher than 16.5 as there's a tiny bit of pink left
Alkalinity: 70
pH: 7.6 Pre-slam, havent checked lately
CYA: 0 pre-slam, currently 50

Thanks

Hey everyone. I searched before posting and had no luck finding my answer. I want to install a fountain to help cool the water a little. I have a Cancun Deluxe Fiberglass pool with 3 main return lines. The fountain hooks up to one and asks me to plug the other two. My question is will this be detrimental to the plugged return lines or will it wear down the pump?

My pool was off for 5 days while we were out of town. It was light green and cloudy when we returned and got things turned back on. As part of this process, I disassembled and cleaned my filter cartridges.

I’ve been slamming at 10ppm for 3 days now. My oclt has been steadily declining. My cya is low 0-10 range (I presume because I use bleach, but also have an autocover that is on when the pool is not in use). My pump runs 24/7.

After three days, the pool is Crystal clear but the water has a light green tinge. FC has been between 7 and 10 since I started the process. CC has been between 0 and .5. Last night I lost 2 ppm of FC. pH was 7.2 when I started.

Am I on track and just need to stay on the slam routine, or is something wrong? Other than my patience . . .

So for SLAM, I’m looking for:
CC off .5 or less - Check!
OCLT of 1 or less - Getting close
Clear water - Clear but wrong color.

Update:

Still need help.....
Took out thermal regulator and the temp went above the prior 92 shut off. I bought a new Thermal Regulator and installed it. Heater shut down at 88 :-(
I took the thermal regulator back out and here is what I am finding as it heats up. Spa Temp 90, Heater shows 88, exhaust shows 288, and the heater when holding down either spa on or pool on shows 305.

Spa Final Temp after about 30 minutes is ....... 100 on the EasyTouch Panel.

So why would the new Thermal Regulator shut down the system at 88/92?

Ideas are appreciated. Pics showing settings as described above.





I have cleaned out the heater base (rodent food remails), checked wires, and replaced the Stack Flu Sensor. Still shuts down at 92 degrees. The other think I noticed was that the temperature reading on the Sta-Rite is 2 degrees off from the Easy Touch panel.

Any suggestions on what my next step should be?

TIA

Will it pass through into the filter bucket or am I calling a pool guy to get it out?

I have had my 15x25 ft oval above ground pool for 17 years. When I went to open it this year there was about 2 ft of water left in the pool. There were no visible signs of where the water possibly went. I have a small rust hole near the skimmer but high on the wall above and not where the water could have possibly leaked out. I did pump rain water off the cover and have thought maybe if the cover had a hole I may have possibly pumped the water out myself. But nah... I now have been getting the run around by the guy trying to get someone here to fix/diagnose/let me know if it can be fixed. Tell me what size liner/ what kind etc etc.

Question... where do you think the water went? There is now a foot of water left in the pool. He says he wants to fix the hole and hopefully not put any other holes in the liner??? I say take off the liner and fix wall and replace liner! I'm only looking to fix it for a few more years. He keeps saying he thinks its structure isn't good. Its solid! I dunno??? I don't think he is actually listening to what I'm saying? Any way it's a popular time of the year I'm hoping I can even find a liner. Dang!
ree

Hi all!

Hoping to learn how to do right by my new San Juan Desert Springs pool!

Hello, looking for help from the most helpful pool forum I know. So. . .

First upfront, I am aware of the syncing procedure contained in the manual for my Hayward Colorlogic LED (see pic at the bottom of this post). Several posts I found while searching before posting referenced it. But, it does not work with my lights and my Hayward Omnilogic, never has. I believe the main reason is that ever since getting the pool in 2016 it takes between 30 and 60 seconds for the lights to fully turn off (or more accurately the spinning wheel to stop so I can turn the lights back on) so that always far exceeds the “turn off light for between 11-15 seconds” and then turn lights on instructions. All other controls from the app and panel are activated practically immediately.

I have two lights in the pool and one in the spa. One of the lights in the pool is not in sync with the other pool light and spa light (See examples below). I’ve tried using the “sync” button in the Omnilogic app and on the main panel with no luck. it appears when hitting the sync button the two lights that are in sync do reset back to VooDoo Lounge but the light that is always out of sync does not - that light just goes back to the previous color it was on when I hit sync lights.

I’ve also shut down all breakers killing power to the system hopping for a default reset of light with no success.

Does anyone have any suggestions for next steps.

Hello,
I am in the process of fixing an above ground Dough Boy pool that was completely buried in the ground. There was a leak in the liner and the walls caved in at certain spots. My pool builder has recommended mixing and pouring slurry (concrete and sand without rock) in between the sheet metal and the dirt. Does anyone know if this is an effective retaining wall to prevent the dirt side from pushing into the pool? I have many more questions about my pool project, but if anyone can help I wouldn’t greatly appreciate it.

Hello all, I would first like to thank you all for being part of this community to help newbies like me out. My mother in law just bought a house with a pool and neither her nor I have experience managing a pool so I am here to learn.

I studied biology in college and worked in a microbiology lab for 5 years prior to starting my service for Washington State. As a drinking water regulator I enforce laws regarding coliform bacteria in an effort to prevent an E. coli contamination in public water systems. On occasion I even teach chlorination classes for employees of municipal water systems.

I feel a bit ashamed to be needing help as I work in the water industry and deal with chlorine and bacteria on a daily basis. I thought I could handle a pool, but there's many different issues at play with a pool than public drinking water systems.

With that out of the way, I am willing to admit when I don't know what I'm doing and here is one of those areas.

Our PB’s masons installed the coping on our new pool. We are concerned with areas that chunks were taken out when bullnosed or over sanded in some areas. See the pics. Can you gone me your thoughts?

Hello TFP!

I am getting close to the end of a successful SLAM, have had the filter pump running 24/7 since the afternoon of Saturday June 24th, and the filter pump has been making a loud pulsing sound with a rough periodicity of 1 second for the past 3 days. The pump has 5 days of continuous operation apart from episodic filter cleanings that take 30-45 minutes per day. This sound persists even immediately after I clean the cartridge filters and restart the pump.

The pool is 26k gallons, PVC runs are 2", and the pump is a Waterway SMF-120 (single speed). There are no suction side leaks, evidenced by the completely full pump basket. The pump motor is running hot enough that I cannot safely touch it for very long, which is partly related to it being unusually hot here in Tampa the past several days (90-95 F).

I am interested in input on how to diagnose what is going on with the pump and/or its motor. I am adept with low and high voltage electrical and can check the motor housing temperature using infrared.

Thanks for reading!

Last year I replaced the pump for my Hayward Xstream 150 Sq Ft System.
This year the locking ring broke, boy was I surprised when I found out why the pool was losing water!

I'm looking at a new system, I could replace with the same but is there a better setup for a 150-200 sq ft filtration system?

We have a pool - spa combo with spillover dam. During SPA usage we use valves to suck water from the bottom of the SPA through 2 x 2" drains, through Pentair 1.65 HP pump through Hayward S244S sand filter and the through Jandy Lite 2 heater and currently return through single 2" return located in SPA. Current there are 6 x 1" SPA jets with 1/2" venturi vents located just above each jet. The plumbing was initially setup with one 2" line feeding 2 x 1" jets and another 2" line feeding 4 x 1" jets. My question is with the filter and heater inline with the pump output, will the current pump drive all 6 jets or would I need a booster pump to get good spa operation. One option would be just to plumb the either of the existing lines...the 2 jet or the 4 jet and run it that way. Feedback requested...

Hi all! Thanks in advance for any help you'd be able to give me. My pool is about two and a half years old and I live in Tampa florida. The temperature is currently in the 90s and has been every day for the last several weeks. I noticed this error on my panel of my true clear system yesterday, so I cleaned the cell, took a water sample to pinch a penny, and added some salt to the water as they told me to. I also cleaned the filter. After doing all that, the error went away but this morning the error is now back. Does anyone have any idea how I can check the cell to make sure it is functioning properly? Or for that matter, anything else I can do to try to resolve this without having to buy a new cell? I thought they lasted a while longer than this. Tia!

Thanks to the member who had a thread about supporting sections of PVC!
I needed something for my SWCG and used a 4-hole cross connector with 3in on 2 sides and 2in on other 2.
I just cut it in half and the 2in side went on left over PVC and the 3 inch side supported the underneath of the horizontal PVC plumbing.
Pretty sturdy and don't have to worry about pressure on unions and other connectors

thank you.I need a place where i can get good advice,tips and ideas as a pool cleaner and this is the perfect place.