few years ago, we build 1000 gallon Fitmax above ground ipool using the 19 inch sand filter from Amazon, seller XtremePowerUSA and 2HP pump. Last year, the filter switch valve intake connection cracked and broke. Order 7-Way Valve Switch direct from XtremePowerUSA directly, got the incorcct part and never able to get it working again. Wait and wait for months and months, no stock available.

Thinking to replace with 16 inch sand filter and valve switch from different supplier. Whom do you recommend?

Hi everyone, I have what appear to be rust like spots on my stairs. Localized to this spot. There is a tree above it but i can't think of why it would cause it. Any ideas for cause and fix?

Pic attached.

Just posting here so others don't end up spending time on troubleshooting like I did.

Short story - If you have an Ikea DIRIGERA smart home hub it may cause disconnection between the Screenlogic indoor protocol adapter and the Easy Touch outdoor unit.

Longer story - I have a EasyTouch controller for my pool equipment, connected using the Screenlogic wireless interface antenna, and indoor antenna connected to a protocol adapter, that is connected over ethernet to my home wireless access point. Worked flawlessly for 3 years then this morning I could not control my pool anymore from the Screenlogic app. The app connects but shows outdated data and controlling circuits from the app does not really activate them. Indoor wireless unit has all three LEDs (PWR/Tx/Rx) blinking like crazy. Outdoor wireless unit has PWR LED blinking very slow, and Rx/Tx LEDs off. Tried resetting every unit (Easy Touch, protocol adapter) disconnecting/reconnecting connectors, Hard power cycling out EasyTouch, shutting off nearby appliances and A/C unit - nothing worked. Called my service company and they had a tech available same day. He came over, did the same disconnects and reboots, told me to re-install the phone app (he claims that is the first thing Pentair support recommends) - nada. He said he will have to call Pentair support and do guided troubleshooting, but it was already afternoon here in the West coast, so he said they will have to come again at time when Pentair's east coast support center is open.
After he left I used a 100ft Ethernet cable and moved the indoor protocol adapter+indoor antenna right next to the outdoor unit. Connection was established and I was able to control the EasyTouch controller with the app. Moved the protocol adapter and antenna back in - no connection.
As a last resort, I decided to shut off nearby devices. Started with a wireless router - no go, moved to a Philips Hue hub - no go. Turned off an Ikea smart home hub - immediate success. The indoor antenna LEDs stabilized, with the PWR constantly on and Rx/Tx lighting intermittently. I was able to control the pool with the app. This hub has been there for a year and never caused a problem. In hind sight, it may have gotten some over-the-air update that caused it to start transmitting some RF signal that interferes with the Screenlogic wireless link.

Hello all!
Bought a home and it came with a large in ground pool. Mostly got it under control but I have a question.
Shown on this photo you can see 3 pipes with valves coming into the pool pump.
The one on the left marked D is from the Drain, the next marked S is the Skimmer, but the 3rd is marked R (RLL) - its valve has never been opened by me.
What could that pipe be?! All 3 pipes exit the pump house and go directly underground.
The pool itself has 1 drain, 1 skimmer, and 2 return jets.
The return line can be seen on the far right of the photo.
I have no idea what the 3rd pipe is marked R going into the pump.
Any ideas?

Can anyone recommend an alternative solar panel coupler other than the OEM fafco sunsaver ?


this price seems absurdly high.

I have one leaking. pulled it apart today and found a two splits or cuts on the inside.

It was only leaking when the system was off so I swapped it with one along the top row.

It is probably OK for a while but I would like to replace it.

Hi got an in ground pool 36500 gal. Water is cloudy and green. PH 7.2 Been shocking it heavy around 8 bags every few days. Last thursday used Floc per pool place. Well it didn’t work been vacuuming last two day to get what I can from the bottom. I have been using Cal Hypo shock HTH Shock Advanced. Any help appreciated as every pool store has different options solution.

I have a fiberglass pool that I kept clean all the time. Now I'm starting to get spots that look like black mold and can't get it clean. What do I do? Do I need an a scrubber?

Our original pool liner was replaced 2 years ago. We had it for 14 years with no real issues. The only thing was that we could feel subtle bumps behind it which was apparently from surface rust on the galvanized walls that developed over time.

We decided to have our concrete removed and replaced with pavers along with a new liner. The company that installed the new liner recommended installing foam padding on the walls as it would make for a better feel but would also act as a buffer to ensure any surface rust spots that developed over time wouldn’t puncture the liner. They also scraped our old walls clean and sprayed a rustoleum coating prior to the foam. Now we have had a few ongoing issues with groundwater getting behind the liner. The liner stays in the track but you can definitely feel the water bubbles at times. It is not always in the same spot and usually goes away by itself over time, however we never had this issue before? The only thing really different is that we added the foam… and thoughts or suggestions with this? We live in NJ and have had more rain than usual. I do not believe there is a leak in the liner. Thanks!

As a licensed summer camp, we're required by the Michigan health department to submit weekly pool water samples for coliform testing. Since I've taken over the pool management, I've had 24 consecutive clean water samples over the course of three summers. And this week, on the second to last sample of this summer, I got a coliform positive test.

Feeling pretty discouraged now that my perfect record is no more. Tried to pinpoint all the possible causes... I've kept the FC above the minimum recommended by PoolMath, though this summer I've been doing this by adding bleach first thing in the morning (as opposed to twice a day in years past) so I usually find it having sat all night long pretty close to the minimum. We also took the sample about 15 hours after having kids in the pool. I would have thought that was long enough for chlorine to kill anything off, but perhaps not. I had one point a few weeks ago where I found the FC at 1ppm in the morning (due to a miscommunication with our lifeguard where bleach wasn't added when I thought it was). I don't know if coliform is like algae and can start growing after that and continue until a SLAM, but I suppose that's another possible cause. Our fill water (well water) also has a TA of about 450, so I've been keeping the pH around 7.8 so I don't have to add acid as often. I know that's well within limits, but since chlorine effective goes down with higher pH and I'm running a commercial pool, I wonder if I need to keep the pH lower as a result.

Regardless, I've SLAM'd the pool, boosted the filtration with DE (had to backwash 12 hrs later), and will go back to my twice a day bleach routine to keep the FC towards the high end until we can get a SWG installed. So that should bring it back in line, but I'm hoping someone more experienced might have an idea on how I can prevent this from happening again, or if it's just to be expected from time to time.

For reference, my average test results are:
CYA: 35-40
FC: 3-7
pH: 7.6-7.8
TA: 110-130
CH: 280

Hi,

Working my way through the internet and the manuals for the Jandy heater (that I have) and a Hayward variable speed super pump (do not have yet); Im wondering if anyone has insight to if this may or may not work....

The JXi heater has optional Versaflo (do not have) valve that the existing control board triggers an output when there is a call for heat.
The Hayward pump allows for an external control through relays for non-supported automation. Could a relay put on the output from the Versaflo trigger the relay for the VS pump to switch to high speed when the heater is heating?

Im not really interested in a full blown automation system.

Thanks!
Matt

Recently installed a new SWCG, and have been monitoring Cl demand and working to get it dialed in just right.
But now it's getting hotter, the pools warm, and so today I put up my shade sail.

I wonder what impact the extra shade will have on my chlorine levels, if any.
Doesn't really matter. Either way I'll keep testing it and figure it out; mostly I just wanted an excuse to show off my shade sail setup

I have a Pentair IC40 Salt Cell and went to check things out this morning as the pool looked a little cloudy and the flow was a bit bubbly. The pool is an inground, Vinyl, about 32,000 Gallons, located in Eastern VA. I saw that the IC40 had the RED No Flow indicator on and the salt level indicators were flashing (red & green). I took this as a chance to clean it and see what that might do. IT WAS FILTHY.

I did the diagnostic check and it showed the cell to be at about 60% life but all other items cleared (besides the known current issue)

However, when I put it back in the system, plugged everything in, and turned it on the flow light almost immediately went to green and then back to red. And the Salt level indicators never stopped flashing. For now I am putting the winterizing pipe back in and taking the Salt cell out of line so I can maintain flow and keep cleaning the pool through the skimmers and filter.

But does this sound like a Flow Switch replacement should work? or should I put in a call to my Home warranty so they can send out a pool repairman to do the deep dive into the repairs?

I bought this House in 2017, where the person I bought it from had performed ZERO upkeep on the Salt cell or pool components. They actually used a Chlorine Float for the years that they owned the house and used the pool. Now here is my dilemma. I have replaced the pool Liner, pump, the Sand in the Filter, and the IC40 salt cell since I have owned this place. I have an issue with salt "crusties" building up around the bottom and outside of the salt cell and some of the Junctions of the pump casing. Is this normal or okay? I have checked and verified that the o-rings are lubricated and that there is no physical leakage of water coming from the piping. But is there any way to stop and prevent the Salt from building up in these areas?

Hi All. I noticed yesterday for the first time some blackish spots / smudges on the bottom of the pool. I've been testing chemistry every day, and other than battling high ph (new gunite pool), chemistry has been good and water has been crystal clear all summer. I went to Leslies and they tested the water + recommended I add 25 fl oz of Leslie's Black Algae Killer, which I di about 24 hours ago. The original spots are fading but now there are more spots. They do not come off when brushing with a wire brush. I hand scraped with a paint scraper, and the stain does come off and looks brownish / black on the paper towel when transferred. Looking for some help on next steps. Details of pool: Gunite, 16X34, 3' to 7', salt water (Pentair), new build - finished in April 2023. Chemistry yesterday:
Free chlorine - 2.85
pH - 8.0
Total Alkalinity - 111ppm
Cyanuric Acid - 58
Iron - 0
Copper - 0.1
Phosphates - 610 ppb
Salt - 2883 ppm

I need to add salt and adjust ph and assuming I should shock it, but not sure which order since I added algae killer yesterday. Any help is appreciated.

Photos are difficult to capture b/c he pool surface is dark (steel blue - Diamondbrite) but I've attached some.

Unit will not turn on-no lights on display at all. Manual says to check fuse. Where is the fuse located?

The inlet pipe on my Pentair FNS 60 Plus DE Filter inlet pipe broke ordered new pipe in route, but I can't remember which way the 90* bend faces is it up or down.

I tested the salt by hand and I know it is roughly 3200. Every day when my salt cell starts up, it says it is 4500. I did the recalibration method and it still stops at 4500. The light isn't on for High Salt and it seems to be generating salt. The only thing that has changed is my pool guy reoriented the salt cell after checking it for buildup. Would this have caused mis-readings? This is third year with salt cell. Its a Aquarite 900. T-9
Should I try cleaning it and reattaching? What else should I do? Going on vacation of course!!

The pH and ORP values have been really off (pH reading is higher than actual value, ORP reading is low compared to chlorine level). I was thinking of cleaning the pH and ORP probes, but reading through the manual, it says to "turn off the AC source power to IntelliChem at the GFCI switch" before disconnecting the sensors. I spent some time looking at/around the system, but I can't figure out how to turn off the power. Attached some photos of what it looks like. Does anyone know how to go about this?

hello, i have a full sun pool (12+ hours per day); i was thinking of getting a sun shade and mount it to my pool fence to shade around 50% and reduce chlorine demand, especially for a two week vacation i have coming up. thoughts, is that going to help?

TIA

Who is the moron who decided to replace all the plumbing and do a better job this time, since she has to do something about her trashed sand filter anyway? Yeah, that would be me. Daughter is home this weekend so I finally have some help to get the filter situation dealt with.

Taking a cool down break - it is insane outside and the pool water is too hot even for me - about 96! I drained below skimmer and return so I could finally replace the glued together nightmare (read my build thread for that dramedy) which meant the sun didn’t have to work as hard on the remaining water. I swear, if it starts to boil, I’m throwing in some lobsters.

Could anyone give advice on to why our pool just this past month has a brown/orange bottom every morning
However water is clear
We maintain our pool daily and treat once a week ~ We now have to vacuum everyday and treat 2 to 3 times per week

Had a 18x36 inground salt pool installed in 2019. I have been running a Hayward 1hp single speed pump running with a Pentair salt generator. I did just install a Hayward vs 1.65hp pump last week to help with electric bill. Im playing around with the set up. Right now running it 3am-5am at 2500 rpm's and 5am-3pm at 1600 rpm's Anything under 1600 rpm's the salt generator shows low water flow.
Anyway, we have the perfect spot for a pool that gets zero leaves but does get full sun pretty much all day. I have never put anything in our pool except salt and baking soda since the first day of install and have never had anything but crystal clear water. I also only have to backwash about 3 times a year being not much gets in the pool and i use a Dolphin electric pool cleaner that does not go through my sand filter.
Anyway, that's a little about me and look forward to scrolling through this helpful forum!

Good afternoon everyone.

Quick question - the pvc that fits into the multi-port valve from the laterals, how snug should that connection be?

The reason being is this - when i first bought this filter/pump i thought it strange that my fitment was a little bit loose. Not long after getting the pump running for the first time I started noticing sand in the pool. Not a lot but enough to notice, unfortunately. Initially I chalked it up to maybe some inconsistency from the manufacturer for the sizing of the sand. That being said - I have since done a "filter to waste" and vacuumed up all the sand in the pool only for it to return again!

Could this fitment be the cause? I Don't think there were any cracks in the laterals. Also, if this might be my problem, is there anything I can do to fix it? Maybe an o-ring on the pipe to help seal?

Heading out on a 3 week vacation, which is our first trip away from the pool since taking ownership and adopting the TFP methodology. I maintain my pool chemistry with liquid chlorine but plan to add trichlor tablets to inline feeder as a safety backup. I will likely increase Chlorine up close to SLAM levels before leaving and will have people stopping by each week to dump some liquid chlorine in (but no testing or precision). CYA is currently around 50 and I'm in very sunny and very hot Texas.

Do you all recommend a brand that is known to be pure TriChlor, no baking soda or copper added?

Finally feel like my 12x24 is in a good place. But I’d like to add a second return using two Hayward eyeball 1.5” directional. Here is what I have:

Hayward 21” pro sand filter
Hayward wide mouth skimmer
Hayward 1.5hp pump
Pentair ic60
Raypak heater

Would adding a second return help. Thinking of adding at the far end of the pool to push toward skimmer (which is currently close to where the standard first intake is on Intex). I’m surround by trees so want to keep stuff flowing toward the skimmer.

Follow up question: if the consensus is to add a second return, what do I do about the salt chlorinator? Would I split the return after passing through salt cell? Or only have the cell on one return?

Thanks all!

About 2 weeks ago, I drained and refilled my pool and am now officially using TFP method I am now in what I consider "maintenance mode".
At this point, the only struggle I am having is PH & TA.
when the pool was refilled...TA was at 180. I worked hard to get it to 100 over the course of 3 days.

Here is the dilemma, once I got TA to 100, I have been aiming for a PH of 7.0.
My Ph has been rising .4 every day (except for yesterday, it only rose by .2)
So I have been adding quite a bit of MA on a daily basis
Because of Constantly adding MA daily, my TA has dropped another 30 in 3 days.

So, I am now at TA 70 and trying to maintain PH 7.0

My question is....will the PH start to stabilize (now that TA is 70) so that I won't need to add MA everyday? One it finds the "perfect" TA level, will the PH stop raising everyday? I mean, I know it will rise...but it should be a slower rise. I am worried that my TA is going to drop so low that it will create another issue. Meaning, I am successfully address one issue (keeping Ph at 7.0) while creating another issue...driving my TA too low.

Thank you for any help you provide

Water is clear and balanced, but it seems like a never ending battle to get rid of the constant layer of greenish-yellow "dust" on the bottom. Any disturbance, like a foot step, just produces a mini-explosion of the dust, so vacuuming is a very slow process. I presume it's dead algae, but it's so small a lot of it goes through the sand filter and then through the cartridge filter and ends up right back in the pool, thereby turning the water green. (Yes, I know, vacuum to waste instead.)

Any suggestions on how to minimize or even eliminate this "dust"?

Hello everyone,

After finally getting my pool fixed and up and running I am at the point i can start tweaking pump settings. I have a Hayward Max Flo VS 500 1.65 THP on 2 inch piping pumping on a 25000 gallon pool (Main drain is dead only have 2 skimmers, pool size 36 by 16 rectangle). The pool has a T9 cell Hayward SWG at 60%. DE filter is DE4820 with current pressure at 7 psi. Currently the pump has been running 24/7 at 2850 RPM (530 watts), i imagine the electric bill is going to bite me in the butt in a few weeks. The kid at the pool store told me to run it 8 hours a day or all night if i add chemicals. What is your recommendation, how long should i run the pump? I am aware if the pump is not running 24/7 the SWG may need to be adjusted on the percentage of Chlorine production but given that TC went from 3.19 to 7.8 in 96 hours maybe i can leave it at 60%)

Not sure if relevant to this post but here are the latest AccuBlue test results (i know they are not the best but i dont have a TF-100 Salt kit yet):
FC 7.8
TC 7.8
pH 7.5
TA 78
CH 163
CYA 41
Iron 0.1
Copper 0.3
Phos 208
Salt 2900 (My hayward panel says 3400)

Hello Folks! Need some help!

I have a Jandy Aqualink RS with a PDA-P4; 3.0 firmware on all.

Last week we noticed the pool was not running its program from 7pm to 7am for the filter pump on the pool. Turned the PDA on and it read 6pm in 2006 - clearly the time was reset. Upon further inspection, all the programs had been reset as well. I can set the time no problem now, but when I try to create a new program for any feature, the system crashes, the filter pump will turn off if I had it on, and when the PDA comes back up, it reads 2006 again.

I am at a loss, thoughts?