Our pump is about 10yrs old, over the last 2 years it stopped working a few times and I was able to put it back working, by replacing the capacitor 3 or 4 times. Today the pump stopped working and we want to replace it. Any pump recommendations based on what we currently have, and also, is there a place you recommend buying it from?

We.ve been using the Intex filter pump 633t 2500 for 2 summers and it works great. The pool is relatively small, above ground 12 x 30, so we only run it about 2 hours a day. The water is always crystal clear, no problems there. We've only been using the manual on/off because we start it at different times.
Today we decided to try the timer for a 2 hour run. Turned it to the 2 hr setting, started fine but never did shut off. Had to shut it off manually after 2 1/2 hrs. So went back and read the manual, unplugged it, reset it, and tried again. Same problem. Pump is only on it's 2nd summer and works great, other than this. We must be doing something wrong or missing a step somewhere? All settings are manual, it's not programmable. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I am in need of a new liner- since moving here we always considered renovating the pool with stairs and creating a shallow end.. My question is more of a trust issue rather than a technical question.. While here the contractor said "You have Black ABS pipes, they biodegrade- you need to replace them" my 30 second google search could not find the answer, and they are already old - potentially 60 years - and I was going to suggest re-plumbing the pool as I want to relocate pump and filter to a different location.. Chances are the pipes are close to end of life anyways..

I'm not actually a pool owner, but I'm a home inspector and do pool inspections following the ASHI standards of practice. I'm doing one right now where is a dispute between the homeowner and contractor about a lot of renovation work being done, and I noticed that the in-ground pool (still under construction) has stone coping and decking butted together with no elastomeric sealant at the transition. As far as I know this is not OK, but can somebody enlighten me if there are scenarios where it's acceptable? I don't have pictures at the moment, but can provide some if necessary.

Hey guys I purchased a house with a modest 31x16 pool. I’ve estimated it to be about 20,000 gallons and is being fed with 1.5” lines to 2 jets. Other features of the pool includes a waterfall (not functional as it has a leak currently that will require a decent amount of masonry work to fix) and a couple rotary things on the stairs that creates bubbles (are these bubblers?) I’ve added a pentair intellicenter and a pentair SWG to the pool. It also uses the pentair sand filter and has a 0.5” line connection for the booster pump but I do not use that as I have a robot cleaner.

I’m looking to replace the pool pump with a variable speed that I can control through the automation platform. I figured this would be easy but I’m confused with the reading I’m doing. What is the best pump I could get for my pool? Does it require a cable that I have read I need to purchase separately? (Seems insane it doesn’t come with the pump)

Thanks everyone and sorry for the newb questions I’m teaching myself different things as they come up!

Just received an RJ60+ that I'll be installing soon. I have two manual timers, one of which isn't being used, and was wondering if there would be any practical reason to use it for the SWG instead of wiring it to the pump timer. Have no prior experience with this. Is it ever the case that you want the pump and SWG running for different periods of time? Or is it better to link them and use the SWG controls to manage its output in different seasons? Not much winter here in Houston but I can imagine that a lot less chlorine is necessary than in the blazing summer. Thanks.

do you think poolstainremovers.com product would remove the stain? I am guessing it is calcium but don't know for sure.

Hello. I am new here but not new to pools. I have been self servicing my 13,000 gallon in ground pool since 1998. The last refinish we had pebble tech surface and field stone surround added. I use a sand filter, pentair pump, Hayward Salt system and a Raypak 8450 Heat Pump. I have a Dolphin pool cleaner that we call “Petety”. Petety originally was a Polaris that ran a second pump motor. The new Dolphin is much more effective and consumes much less power. Looking forward to learning from the community. Bill.

Small pool for the kiddo. 850 gal. New to pools. New sand filter. Rinse cycle blew dirty water back into the pool. Corrected the sand filter problem but now need to correct the cloudy water problem. Please help.

Our gunnite pool was recently emptied and resurfaced (epoxy). I am slowly refilling it now by hose from house well water. Once I got to about halfway (12,000 gallons) I added one bottle of liquid chlorine and turned on the pump, using only main drain suction. The water had been crystal clear but quickly turned the green you see in the picture in about 25 minutes. At first I assumed it was oxidized iron or copper from the well water -- but I took a sample to Leslie's for testing and they found 0 iron and 0.1 copper. So what could it be? An incredibly very dirty filter or lines? No time for algae to have bloomed. Ideas/suggestions appreciated.

It has only been a month, but I can’t help but feel giddy about my SWCG conversion. The RJ45+ just works. The CR Magnetics relay just works. My pool water is clearer than it ever had been. Ever. The only thing I do is clear out leaves and add acid.
Perfection. Chefs kiss
Thanks to those of you who helped me get here!

Algae has crept in over the last week, even with acceptable FC, CC, pH, TA, CYA and salt levels.

We've had a lot of rain, but the FC/CC have remained pretty consistent, as have the other levels. I was planning to SLAM, but the required FC level with CYA of 70-80 is SO HIGH...!

Please advise!!!

Hi Guys,

New here, looking forward to learning alot from you all! Just curious, I've seen all the negatives about Baquacil (and experienced the pink slime) but is there anyone who actually likes it and has any ideas on how to actually beat the pink slime? It's really my only issue with it and I would like to to stay with it if possible. Appreciate your feedback, thanks!

Hello. I need y'alls opinion on whether I should do a SLAM.

Last night at 8:30 pm when my pump shut off, I went to clean out the basket and saw what I thought was the start of algae on the ledge (a few inches below the waterline) of my fiberglass pool. It was only along one corner, so I brushed it off. I immediately tested chlorine so I could do an OCLT.
FC - 5
CC - 0
Morning Tests:
FC - 4.8
CC - 0
(I used 25 mL sample cuz I wanted the most accurate result)

This morning, I turned SWG to 100% output since I wasn't going to be home all day and wouldn't be able to get LC until this afternoon. I tested FC again at 2 pm today and it was 6 ppm, CC-0. I looked all around the pool, no sign of green on the ledges or anywhere else. I vacuumed to prepare for SLAM, and no sign of algae in the Dolphin. So, water is clear, passed OCLT, no combined chlorine....but I know there was something last night. When I wiped it with a white paper towel, it was yellow-green. So, mustard algae or pollen?

I don't think pollen would settle on the ledge like that in just one area, as I've read here in other threads. Plus, it's an area with little circulation. But, even after all night and day, I didn't see anything resettle in that spot, or anywhere else. I thought mustard algae keeps coming back to the same spot?

So, question is...do I SLAM?? Right now, since it's evening, and things look clear, I'm going to do another OCLT, just to double check. But if I pass tomorrow morning, and still not see any visible algae, should I trust that? I want to avoid a SLAM if I don't need it, but if you guys think I should, then I will. Help!
Today's Results:
FC - 6 (had been consistently 4 lately and last night 5, will test again tonight)
CC- 0
TA-60
PH - 7.8
CH- 160
CYA - ?? ( At 50 dot was visible, at 40 semi-visible, at 30 not visible...so is it 40???)
Salt -Taylor 2800 ( SWG -3100)
Temp - 94

My pool builder set my pool and spa up as 2 separate bodies of water. They both have their own filters, Mastertemps, IC40s, Pumps, ect. But they share 1 easy-touch panel.

He also installed 2 intellichem systems. My pool intellichem is wired into the easytouch and the IC40 is connected to the built-in salt transformer in the easy touch. The other is for my spa and it is connected to an Intellichlor power center that powers the spa IC40.

The problem is when I use the screenlogic app, I can only see my pool chemistry and I can't see what my spa is. My question is can I use the com ports and connect my spa intellichem to the easytouch as well so in the app I can see both bodies of water?

I understand I may need the com port expansion board to accomplish this but before I buy it I want to know if it is even possible and will work.

Hi All,

Does anyone have a good method of removing dirt/grime/oil build up along the waterline tiles of a light-colored travertine? I've tried baking soda and a scrub brush, but that doesn't seem to touch it.
Maybe hit it lightly with a pressure washer?

Thanks,
Patrick

Free pickup in downtown. First come, first served.

I turn it on and once it climbs the wall it gets stuck on its side.

I've seen some products with "other ingredients" on Amazon but was looking for something pure to increase calcium. I need 18lbs per PoolMath and Cal Hypo is expensive so going with pure calcium chloride and LC combo.

PinchaPenny has this but are there other brands and products that are 100% pure also?

There was a little plastic jar sitting in my pump basket. The lid had holes in it and it looked like a piece of metal is in it. I was told by a guy who had worked on my pool in the past that it "contains elements that help regulate the chemicals and breaks down algae."
I went to clean out the pump after vacuuming the other day and it appeared to have broken on the bottom edge.
Is this necessary, do I need to replace it?
I don't know if this is a standard piece of equipment because I can't even find any info googling about such a thing.

Hi I am new to pools, I am on my second season and attempting to figure out all of this stuff I have already ran into several issues , broke a things and wasted lots of money trying to figure out stuff, so I guess it’s time to talk with people who know what they are doing

My cold water is soft but my hot water is hard. I have flushed my water heater and drained it and filled it back up with cold soft water. I immediately tested it coming out of kitchen faucet and it tests hard again…about 50ppm of Hardness. I’m perplexed.

I have a water softener hooked up before the water heater.

Hi all,

I am in the process of moving the pool equipment. So far so good.
Can anyone help identify the small ~ 1/4” clear tube that runs along the pipe next to the bond wire? It’s almost like drip system pipe.
It runs up through the pad and terminates just above the pad.
It appears to have pressure from the pool and trickles water in the direction of the pad (away from pool). Before demo I’ve never seen water trickle from the end of the pipe above the pad. Pool is a 1990’s build. Some say pressure side cleaner pipe but it’s very small to have much pressure. Any help would be appreciated.

Hello!

I've recently started using Hasachlor 12.5% to see how it would compare to the pool Essentials 10%, and I'm not sure if I'm just not understanding the difference between the two, but I can't seem to get the chlorine to 5ppm with the gallon of Hasachlor compared to how I get it with Walmart Essentials chlorine. Are there any benefits in using one rather than the other? It's definitely not the cost.

Am I missing something?

I feel like I'm using what seems like an awful lot of chlorine. Our pool is 18,032 gallons; it's gunite with a pebbletec finish.

• My combined chlorine reading is zero.
• CYA @ 60
• My pool is in the direct, south-Texas sun for probably 12 hours/day with temps of 100+
• I have never seen algae in the pool, and I check the chlorine daily
• I keep pH around 7.6 to 7.8

All guidance and feedback is appreciated.

Hey all!

I've had a pretty good summer with the pool this year, with the water staying nice and clear. Over the past couple of weeks, I started to notice a very slight tint of green, which I promptly corrected by increasing my chlorine level until the water looked clear again... Now I realize I should've done the drop test to confirm all was actually well.

We last used the pool this past Thursday, and the water remained (I thought) pretty good looking. I vacuumed, brushed, and then put the solar cover on.

Today when I uncovered it, about 5 days since last use, I found a good amount of algae looking material on the floor. The water was clear all the way to the floor, though. Vacuuming seems to have stirred the sediment up, as I expected would happen.

Upon seeing that, I vacuumed what I could, and am now running the filter with chlorine at SLAM level (after balancing the pH).

The issue I'm facing is that I'm going out of town for the next 4 days or so, and I'm not sure what to do with the pool while I'm away. I do have a chlorine feeder that I rarely use, so would it be best to lean on that while I'm away to hopefully keep the situation from getting worse?

Also, any ideas what I did wrong here? Maybe my mistake of not drop testing led to some small amount of algae turning into a larger mess during the 5 days we didn't use the pool? For what it's worth, there are quite a few trees nearby, and I had been using it about every other day and frequently vacuuming.

Edit: I also noticed today that I forgot to put the eye back into the return jet when I opened the pool this year. I don't think that would've really caused this issue, but figured it's worth mentioning.

And the bay has surface temps of 100 degrees in some areas!

It’s official - we have found water that is actually too warm for me.

I have used my Taylor K-1766 test kit to test the salt levels in my pool and have some concerns. The test it steadily coming back at 4400 ppm. According to the Jandy Aquapure 1400 manual I should be between 3200-3500 ppm. My aquapure is showing 3800 ppm. I know I can recalibrate the SWG to match what the readings are with the K-1766 test but if I do this won’t it shut down my SWG? I also know the only way to lower it is to drain some off and refill but not sure if I should do this or not.

Looking for some guidance on what I should do. I just recently finished a 8 day SLAM and totaled up how much liquid chlorine I had to add and that was 21 gallons which I know contributes to the salt level going up.

Thoughts and suggestions greatly appreciated.

Hello Everyone,

When I am testing using drop tests with Taylor what do I consider my end point? For example: If testing alkalinity, at drop 10 the water turns red, at 11 drops it turns darker red, at 12 drops there is no change. Do I call it 100, 110, or go between the two, and call it 105? I have had, and used this kit for a couple years, but was never clear on this. Thank you.

Hi all. I have an inground (shotcrete) pool and raised spa that was complete last summer with a Hydrazzo finish. While we love the smoothness of the Hydrazzo finish, we have had a lot of issues with staining and it was ultimately concluded by our PB that it was likely mixed improperly (they reviewed our pool chemistry reports too). Pool is maintained professionally on a weekly basis and we do chemistry checks in between and brush it regularly. Thankfully, they are standing behind everything and we have to pick a new pool finish. They have recommended PebbleSheen but I am concerned about it being too rough. Going to check out Pebble Breeze and some of the other PebbleTec products. Would love recommendations from others that love their pool finishes! Thank you so much!

Hello, I added liquid conditioner which consisted of about 20 ppm on day 4 of my start up, test confirmed at pool store on a few occasions. This weekend I added enough based on the dry stabilizer’s container and TFP for the extra 10 ppm. I did the sock method on Sunday and fully dissolved in about 10 hours. I went to a different pool store yesterday and it reflected my cya is 24 and the other store showed 21 prior to me adding more. my test can’t read it since it goes to 30 ppm. Some say it takes about a week to show on a test or takes a few days. Should I wait longer or add?