I accidentally got the salt level to 3500 - 3600. It is for a t-15 Hayward. Can I leave it there or must I lower the water level to get it below 3400?

And early today I added a 40 lb bag of salt. When adding small amounts like that it is recommended to turn off SWG for the next 24 hours? That 40 lbs is what put me over - I had read 3000 and 40 lb should have only raised the level to about 3300.

8,000 gallon above ground pool with dome
Baquacil
Sand filter
Just inherited maintenance from my mom (74)
Pool unchanged since ~1983, same liner, walls, everything original except pump and filter, and dome.
New England location

I’ve got a brand new pool, but am on my third builder now and am piecing stuff together. When the electrician wired my pump, it works and turns on but doesn’t work through the automation. It appears as though I need to move the wiring from the filter spot to the J4/J5, issue is I don’t seem to have a green/yellow wire anywhere. Is that something separate or something I need to buy? Assume it was probably in the box and got thrown away.

Just trying to make everything work, guy who finished the pool is a legit worker, but old school so all the automation stuff makes him scratch his head and his son who was supposed to set it up has been slow at best.

Hi all, I have run into an interesting problem with Pentair Easytouch. I have set up two schedules for the VS 3.0 Pump. One is called "Pool" and the other is called "High Speed". High Speed is a feature. I am trying to run the pool at 1500 rpm for 6 hours (Pool rpm) and 3 hours at 2700 rpm (high speed). What I see happening is that in the "pool" schedule, the pump relay kicks on, SWG gets power and it runs. In the high speed schedule, for whatever reason, the "pool pump" relay is not activated and SWG does not get power and does not run - but the pump is running at high speed. Is this a wiring issue or expected behavior? I was hoping that ad t "high speed", the pump relay is activated and SWG can run during both schedules.

Hi, I am a brand new pool owner and this is a brand new pool. Pool is about 45 days new and we put salt in about 2 weeks ago. I don't know if the SWG has ever worked correctly but now my chlorine drop test readings are less than 1.0 ppm.

Also, I am unable to monitor or track the salinity in the mobile app, not sure why. everything else seems to be usable in the app.

Where do I start for troubleshooting? I can call my pool builder but I'm doubtful I'll get a reply anytime soon.

thx

Hi everyone, wanted to get some thoughts from people who have heaters for the pool.

Did some searching on the forum and from what I've read Raypak is getting the most reccomendations from most of you on here.

I went to their site and found the pool sizer calculation page to estimate what type of heater I would need.

http://roxwebdev01.pixelgate.net/gas_sizing/Raypak.php?appid=1

On that page given my input.

Heating the pool May through October to a temp of 82 degrees.

Milwaukee Wisconsin area

Solar Cover on 20hrs per day.

Its calculating that I would consume about $266 in electric costs. $461 in natural gas, and some un-godly amount using propane.

I was planning on Gas or Electric but never having a pool heater before thought I would ask for some advice before digging any further.

So I stopped using my Apera PH60 tester for pH readings because the readings were crappy compared to my Taylor kit reading. I realized today, it's user error. I had been following the Quick Start/Use laminated card that comes with the unit, but I also noticed that that laminated quick guide doesn't say ANYTHING about proper storage and well, I was not properly storing it . I found out that the probe should be stored damp/wet with the cover/cap fully closed to keep the tip from drying out. I was not doing that and my unit seemed to get less responsive over time, even calibrating it didn't help.

The good news was, I foiund that cleaning the probe in the 3M KCL Storage Solution for a couple of hours, and then recalibrating the probe (7.0, 4.0 and then 10.0) totally fixed all my issues. Not only does it read correctly now with both the Taylor and TF-PRO pH blocks (yes, I have to use both, cause I need to double-check things being color blind) but the PH60 also reads SUPER fast now.

I bought this on Amazon to get me a proper cleaning and calibration and couldn't be happier: Amazon.com

Now I know to store the probe tip with some moisture on it and in its protective cap/cover to keep the tip from drying out. Passing this along for others who might struggle with their Apera PH60 meter.

(I use mine because I'm color blind and color based pH reading tests have been a real struggle for me in the past, though I think I've managed to train my eye properly and have gotten way better).

HTH someone else.

New DPD powder from TFP store bought in Spring 23. Just opened it yesterday and used it and it turned my test sample murky. Same thing today.

The powder is white and fluffy like my others have been. Over 4 years, this has never happened.

Testing is in line but the cloudy thing is weird.

Any ideas?

Would homemade Solar rings be nearly as effective as a Solar blanket at night to retain heat? I’m struggling with the Solar blanket. I was told I must remove it daily or CO2 will build up and increase acidity causing damage to the pump etc.
Reels are too expensive and unreliable for above ground pools.
I was thinking of triangular shapes to minimize gaps.

I have been battling scaling in my SWG. I've been careful about keeping my CSI slightly negative, but still lots of calcium buildup. Granted my CH is getting really high and I'll need to drain soon, I still just don't understand why I'm getting so much scaling even though I believe my pool chemistry is where it needs to be according to pool math. How far in the negative do I need to be to ensure I don't get any scaling?

I have an old Hayward Starclear filter housing. I noticed recently the dome lid was cockeyed when I went to clean the filter. It wasn’t leaking but it definitely wasn’t flush on one side. I chided myself and cleaned the filter, put the lid on and tightened til it stopped. Dome flush. Kicked the pump back on and it did the same thing. Read some stuff. Replaced the knob. Screwed it down flush. Same dang thing. Took some vice grips to the tie rod and it’s in there very tight. I am remiss to try to tighten it further, but I can’t think of any other piece of the geometry here that lets the lid not be flush. All I can think is that over time I loosened that rod a bit here and there with a crusty old star knob grabbing it a little too hard. Any advice appreciated. It’s not leaking, and the gap on the high side is > 1/4”. But I can’t think this is desired behavior. Also, are the tie rod lower threads standard or reverse? Seems they should be standard but I’m so confused here anything is possible.

Thanks!
Chris

Hello,

I recently bought a house that has no drainage area at this section of the pool in the picture. The other side of pool has deck o drain but in this section of the deck there is no drain solution and it just puddles up there. Today it rained excessively and with no where water to go, all the dirt and debris went in to pool.

Does anyone have suggestions on improving drainage for this problem? The deepest area is where the deck column is.

The pool pump under the deck to left side marked with an red X and I believe a drainage pipe runs under the landscape trees marked in a blue line as I can see outlet of the pipe past the stucco wall.

When I roll up my solar cover some leaves stay stuck on the cover and get rolled up, but some debris and many leaves just dump into the pool at the last turn of the reel. I see that Poolmaster sells a leaf catch that is weighted down on the pool deck. You sweep or hose the leaves and pine needles onto that before you roll up the end of the solar cover. Has anyone tried that and does it work for you? Does anyone have a DIY prevention of this leaf dump?

May 22nd After a 4 week delay we should start excavation and install on our Summit 35. Leisure pools would not deliver. Quality control found a "defect" and would not deliver. I see very few posts on fiberglass level tolerances. Any one have any any thoughts on what I should look for as PB moves forward? Level, equipment install settling? Going with a cool deck layer on pool deck any one have any advice on keeping it clean? Concrete installer will not form and install for 28 days after backfill and mentionined settling. How soon can we swim after equipment is running?

Hi guys, thanks to your help, I setup an intex 14x48 ultra frame agp this year, on level ground too! :-D
I'm thinking it's about that time to take it down though, as temps at night are closer to 50 than 70. Anyone have any tips for the take-down or storage of the pool for the winter?
Thanks again everyone! I dont know where i'd be in the pool world without you guys

My local Ocean State Job Lot (great place in the NE to get really well priced pool chemicals)
has closing kits for about $20 for the 20k gallon kit. But what exactly is Winterizing Powder and Liquid Winterizer?
I've seen these kits around by a few different manufacturers. Anyone know which two chemical types are actually in this? Doesn't say on the box.

Back in May, my Hayward TCELL-15 stopped working. (At least 4 years since I last replaced it) I found that the replacement cells had jumped up to over $899 in price. (For reference, in 2013, I paid $429 for a new one)
I was on a cheap fit and decided to try a cheaper off-brand cell. (First mistake) I went with an interesting cell that was partially see through. The website said it has a 5 year warranty and it was only $369! Wow! (second mistake!)

Product arrived with no issues. Installed and we were running fine for 3 months. Last weekend, my Aquarite panel started showing a "Hot" error which is one I have never seen before. Turns out this seems to indicate the cell's on-board thermistor has gone bad. I used my multimeter and confirmed the resistance was only 2k ohms instead of the 8-10k ohms it should be. Naively thinking I am well within my 5 years, I contact the website via email. No replies. They have a live chat feature on the site, so I talk to the first person... and as soon as I mention I need a warranty replacement, the chat session is terminated on their end. (Not a good sign). I try again and get a different person (in name at least) and this time I simply ask about the warranty and what the process is. They point me to a dedicated web page on their site for warranty claims. It is a simple form. Put in my info, give them the order number, date of order, picture of the error, and copy of the latest pool report showing low chlorine level. I put all of that information in place and submitted. Seems to have gone through.

I am currently waiting for their feedback. I am not holding my breath. But in the meantime, I have purchased the OEM Hayward cell like I should have in the first place. PM me if you have any questions...

I also saw a Youtube video where you can cut into the cell's cable and simply cut the thermistor wires and connect a resistor that is set to 10K ohms to trick the panel into thinking the cell's thermistor is working... I know that is probably a bad idea since the panel does need to know the actual water temperature. I also saw another person who physically put a thermistor into a hole they cut in one of the PVC pipes and wired that to the control panel.

Here is my Aquarite panel diagnostics:
Temp: 154
Cell voltage: 32.7
Cell current: 0.00
Output% 8SP
Salinity 0
Product name: AL-3
Software rev: r1.59

Recently our 8050 has stopped running after about 1 minute. The cleaner is cleaned out; put into the pool and goes to the bottom as it should. I press the start/stop button to begin the cycle. It runs about a minute before turning off; the cleaner error indicator begins to flash once every second. Usually this means the cable isn't connected correctly, so I checked that. After so many attempts, I simply unplugged the entire unit from the wall and unplugged the cable over night. Today it turns on, but doesn't even run at all, it immediately shuts off and begins the one second flash.

Any suggestions as to what the issue might be?

Thank you.

Hi all,

Last year, I integrated my solar pool heater into my home automation system so I could see temperatures and pool heating state. See How I added a Hayward solar pool control to HA via ESPhome

Now, my next project is to add an actuator to the valve to my pool waterfall that I want to control through automation.

This is the valve I intend to buy: actuator and I've seen on youtube how to set it to turn 90°, so I'm one step forward.

I also understood from a bunch of internet searches that I will need a 2 channel relay to make the valve turn in either direction - something like this: 2 channel relay board

That's about as far as I got with this...

How would the 3 wires (from the valve) connect into this board?
I'll then also have to figure out the ESPHome configuration

Anybody have any hints / suggestions?

Thanks a ton in advance,
Bernard.

Good morning TFP. New here and looking for help diagnosing and removing buildup around my spa return feature. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi, I have an 18 foot diameter above ground pool with a Raypak 156a heater which worked fine most of the summer but now when it ignites I can’t hear the fire like I used to. I can see a blue flame through the little window inside the heater but the flame looks weak and no heat can be felt on the outside of the heater. The heater thinks it is working fine, display says spark and then heating like normal. I’ve cleaned all filters, chemistry is good. Any thoughts on why it would do this? Thanks in advance for any help.

Hi! I’ve been lurking the threads for weeks now looking for the perfect tile for my spillway and this is my first time posting! We’re currently under construction and I need to submit my tile choices tomorrow and have been going back and forth for the spillway glass tile. My spa is going to be very large and the focal point, I’m doing the exterior with the Carrara grigio gray porcelain veneer and want to add an extremely iridescent pinky, purple, turquoise, unicorn like glass tile 1x2 for the spillway. I want to make sure the tile matches the waterline tile but can’t decide what would look best. I’m between aquabella sh1291, lightwaves (can’t decide between blue or aquamarine) Aquabella constellations Aquarius and aquabella crystal. I’ve heard @kimkats the bling queen so any advice for the tile choice and grout is welcome and very much appreciated! Thank you all

I bought a solar cover two years ago and it is already falling apart. I started seeing plastic in the pool a couple days ago. I looked at the site and the cover is warranted for 10 years however it seems to be basically worthless. The first two years they will replace it but after that, the warranty is a discount off a new cover and the discount isn't all that great. Plus, it appears I've voided the warranty because I did not cover the cover (to keep direct sunlight off it) but seriously - who does that? Anyway, my questions is whether or not I should just replace the cover with a cheaper one. If they're only going to last two years, I could save almost $100 by buying the cheaper one. I can't see me covering the cover when it's out of the pool. That's just not realistic.

Opinions on a solar cover would be appreciated. Thanks.

I had my pump replaced in the spring (~3 hp fixed replaced by variable speed). It seems like since it was replaced the skimmers no longer work. I am pretty sure it matches the pump replacement timing since I have never had to clean needles out of the pump basket like I did with the old pump. I have read through old post and don't see any solutions that apply to me.

Pertinent Info
-Filter pressure is almost the same when variable speed up is at maximum speed as with old fixed pump
-I have tried water levels 1/2" above and below the top of the weir valves
-The bottom of my skimmers have float valves but they are all the way up when running and the adjustment cover is all the way open
-I can take out the baskets and valves and don't see any meaningful flow
-There are two pipes on the pool side inlet to pump but no valve to control the balance between, there is also a spa side inlet and obviously a valve between pool side and spa side
-Old pump: Purex Triton Whisper Flow WFE-8 2.0 HP Service Factor 1.3
-New pump: Jany Pump VS FlowPro Variable Speed 2.7 HP
-I run it at 3250 for the first hour then 2250 the rest of the 8 hours I run it.

Any help would be appreciated

Photo shows old pump but the only change with new pump is between valve and inlet.



New pump

Hello all,

After 2 years of having my system, I had the nipple on my ozone system break. I had decided when the system stopped working I was going to remove it. I capped the nipple, and disconnected the ozone generator. But here on the return is the Venturi device. I want to remove the setup from my plumbing, but I am unsure if I need a one way valve or not. As you can see on my spa return there is a one way elbow. Can I just remove the Venturi and replace it with 2” pipe? Or should I add a one way clapper as well on the pool return?

Thanks for any help!

This is my second season with an 18X9X52 Intex with sand pump and swg. Owning and running a pool has been a delight (and really low maintenance) because of TFP. I use the Pro test kit, I've never had algae, and it just brings our family a lot of joy.I think we are ready to buy a heater to extend this experience (and make it a little less cold in the summer). I think I'm going to go with a 120 v heat pump, but want to run my thinking past y'all and ask for advice on what/when to purchase.

1. SOLAR is not an option. I can't do solar heat because my pool is in a wooded backyard that gets limited speckled sun. (This is why we need a heater during the summer. Other than July, pool temps are around 76 degrees.) Solar heat is not an option, although we do have the solar cover, which helps a little with that speckled sun.
2. Natural gas is probably not an option. I have a grill gas line in the backyard that I could use, but it is less than 50,000 btu (probably around 25,000 btu). Running a new gas line would require tearing out the ceiling in my finished basement.

3. I don't have enough room in my panel to add another 240v and the cost to add a new panel and run a line around my house is cost prohibitive.

I think that leaves me with a 120v heat pump? I'd like to spend less than $2000. .

Does anybody have any recommendations? Does anybody use (or familiar with) fibropool? or Ecotech? Does Doheny make a 120v heat pump?
FH135 35,000 BTU 120 Volt Swimming Pool Heat Pump


Will this type of heat pump work in mid-Missouri to heat during summer and extend the season? How long might I be able to extend the season? Is it better to buy in fall or spring?

Any advice is appreciated!

We have some variable sized fiber optic strands which are going into the grotto for a Star field effect. The strands are in a covered cable. Once we strip back the covering, the strands get pulled into the grotto area before gunnite (see YouTube video on this). We hope to bundle them and weight them during the gunnite spray to keep them from disappearing into the gunnite. My question is: Can the strands pass on top of the grotto jump rock’s framing/rebar and poke down then be buried on top by gunnite or will they break? I’m also concerned about the additional weight added to the top by people standing on it. I feel that the strands should be fed through the center of the rebar structure to keep the weight of the gunnite off of them. Does anyone have experience installing fiber optic strands in the grotto? I’m thinking of trying to reach the “Ask Pool Guy” who posted the video, but I’m not sure how to find him.

I have constantly a difference between total chlorine and free chlorine of around 0.5 - 0.6 ppm. I have heard that this level should preferably be lower. I have tried chock chlorination but it did not lower the level. Any ideas on how to lower it?

Hey all, I'm currently slamming my green pool. I'm on Day 2.

On day 1 at sunset, using pool calculator, I dropped enough bleach for 24 FC (64 CYA). By morning, it was around 4 FC. I just added enough to get it back up and will retest at sunset. Is this pretty normal for a day 1?

As far as CYA, I just had to drain a bunch of water (prior to slam) to get it down so my numbers may be wacky (chem tests attached). I noticed my Taylor kit seems to read CYA higher than Leslie's (70 vs 53 today).

Anyway, my TA is 57. Do I need to worry about it during my SLAM? I do have baking soda.

How often do I need to backwash/rinse? I can't use the "backwash til clear" method because it starts out green anyway.

Also, the manager at Leslie's wants me to use Black Algae Killer so bad that he gave me a bottle for free. I've attached the ingredients. I know the general consensus is to not trust Leslie's guys, but him giving it to me for free threw me off. I go in all the time and don't buy anything, so I don't think he's trying to get me to buy more chemicals. I've read the SLAM articles, but I didn't find an article on this particular product.

Hello All

Thanks in advance for the help. My AquaRite panel went dark this week. I am a novice on these boards but I have replaced the limiter in the past. I couldn’t find a parts diagram that shows what I think is the problem. However I am sure the experts here can confirm if this is the cause or the effect. In the attached picture it looks like the red piece (technical name) is burnt out and needs replacing.

Would appreciate if someone could point me to the part name and whether this may indicate a larger issue that needs to be resolved.

Thank you!
Brian