When is it NOT OK to replaster a pool?

Hi all! Found this thread via a friend's recommendation. My wife and I (we have one small child) are in the middle of building a pool/outdoor kitchen in TX and I really hope having this forum is beneficial to learning from others and hoping to gain as much insight into everything that being a pool owner entails. I apologize in advance because I may ask silly questions but I tend to be thorough so please do not take my ignorance as anything other than wanting to make sure I get it right as much as possible.

General Pool Dimensions:

35' x 20'
Surface area - 765 sq ft
Pool Inside Perimeter - 126.5
Interior Area - 1400
Depth 4ft - 8ft
Total Volume - 26.5k gals
Spa - 7'x7'

I have a 9 or 10 year-old Pentair 011018 and a solar touch controller. Was wondering if it is possible or even wise to update the firmware? The menu system on the pump makes me insane, it is buggy and impossible to navigate. Surely they must have improved this over the years?

I'm looking for a good heat pump for an 18,500 Gallon inground pool. Would like something fairly quiet and easily connected to Wifi to set schedules, adjust temps, etc.

Any recommendations?

I'm also wondering about keeping my Costco 12x22 above ground pool up for winter. Looking at some of the answers here, I'm leaning towards leaving it up. Lots of pine needles here. I bought a couple of pool pillows but now I'm thinking I should just cover it and allow the tarp tlay on the water while tying it to the frame without the pillows. Any thoughts? Thanks!

I'm hoping someone on here has tried this and can let me know how it went.

My pool deck is about half brick (on compacted gravel and sand, polymetric sand joints), half loose stone on top of compacted gravel... less than ideal for the brass anchors to support the mesh safety cover I want to install.

There are anchor tubes available online that are supposed to be used for installation in grass, pavers, etc. They range from about 8" to 18" long. I've also seen directions to install 4" diameter concrete columns whenever an anchor needs to be in grass.

What I haven't seen is a forum post, video, or anything else where someone has used a method for installing the anchors using these or any other methods, for better or worse.

Anybody here?

Can anyone recommend a programmer that works specifically with the IntelliTouch controllers? This thread talks about both Intellitouch and EasyTouch, but it appears that they don't have the same MCU. EasyTouch uses the MC9S family of chips, but when I checked my IntelliTouch Indoor control panel, I saw that it actually has an older 68HC12 chip (specifically: MC912DG128ACPVE).

I went ahead an ordered one of the cheap USBDM programmers from AliExpress, but when I started looking into how to install the software and drivers, I found that this programmer does not seem to have any support for the 68HC12 chips (it only supports the "S" series, like MC9S12A128).

I see there is another product (P&E Micro USB BDM Multilink Interface for RS08 HCS08) out there. It says it supports both the HC12 and HCS12, but it is a lot more expensive, and it appears the necessary software might be a separate purchase (though I am not certain exactly what software is required).

Can anyone give any guidance?

New plaster, Pebblesheen, filled end of July. Have been adding muriatic acid 2x/week to get PH down (PB says that will continue as plaster cures), which gets the PH down to 7.6 or so, but then it always climbs through the week. TA is also persistently high, and CH is consistently low. Do you recommend I get the CH up, and drive the TA down by lowering the PH to 7.0-7.2 and aerating? If yes, in what order should I do that? See my current readings below (Using the TFP Pool Math App, which is awesome btw):
FC: 7.5
PH: 8.0
TA: 120
CH: 225
CYA: 90
Salt: 3000
Temp: 86
CSI: 0.26

Thanks for any help/advice you all can provide.

Doug

Any thoughts on the new Hayward AquaRite S3 SWG systems? My local pool place says the older model was being phased out. From what I can tell, the metal housing is now plastic (which may be better for heat related issues) and the Cell is clear instead of white plastic. I'm needing to upgrade my system and not sure if I should make the jump or stick with the old school time-tested model.

I have attached a photo showing a bubble coming from one of my microbrite lights and an arrow pointing to the approximate location of its origin. (I tried to upload a video showing them streaming, but I had no luck adding a video. ) The light still functions normally. I contacted Pentair to see if this is typical. I’ve never noticed the bubbles before, but this one and only time I’ve witnessed this, it was shortly after turning on the lights and lasted for 10-15 minutes max. I was thinking maybe it was from this recently illuminated “heat source” in the water, then whatever was happening to release bubbles finally balanced itself out (if that makes sense). Pentair is sending someone out because they feel it’s likely a problem with the light. The thing is - I believe the entire wire has to be pulled to replace this light - not just replace the head unit. YIKES! If these people don’t know what they are doing or screw up and wreck the conduit, I could end up with a leaking pool right before winterizing. Not a happy thought.
Does anyone know any details about the replacement process, or this bubbling event? I’d love to hear that this is normal, or that I’m wrong about a full wire pull being required.
Thanks!

Hello,

New Plaster pool owner.
Just had the pool re-plastered on 9/20 and filled on 9/21.

Added chlorine on 9/24 BUT I added too much.
(2 gallons of bleach). Both TC/FC 7.9 about 2 hours after adding.

PH 7.8 (expected). Treating with MA.

Should I be concerned with the high chlorine?
Concerned about the new plaster curing properly.

Thanks.

Hey folks

We bought a house this summer with an inground 25k gallon pool. The lights were not working and finally got around it.

When I removed the light out of the fixture I saw two cables coming out of the conduit. The one is going to the light and the other one is going into the the wall and it's sealed with some foam. All the videos I watched on YouTube I didn't see anything like that.

The junction box has only the cable from the light fixture. The second light on the other side is exactly the same(2 cables coming out of that conduit).

I want to replace both light fixtures, Any idea why there two cables coming out?

I'm not sure what to use to stop my mortar from falling off between my paver and my fiberglass pool. I don't want it to look "rubbery"
It was suggested that I use Boss 804 in grey. Do I cover all of the mortar or just the bottom where the mortar touches the fiberglass? What about under the coping?
Thank you

Just installing our liner in our 36x18 rectangle with 90 degree corners and wondering about the bead in those corners. I can push it by hand to a fairly tight radius, but the bead is not locked in all around. Should I try to jam it further with a screwdriver, or cut the bead so its locked in on both sides and forms a perfect 90 degree?

Ok, maybe I’m worried over nothing but need some advice. The screw plate on my pressure side pool cleaner is cracked. Unsure if it’s leaking but want to replace anyway. The liner is only 3 years old but I’m worried that if i take the plate off, the vinyl might shift or stretch and I will be in trouble.

Any advice or experience on this? Also, are the threads typically the same size for a return jet on these pressure side ports? Thank you!

My Dolphin power supply has three wire output. I’ve got 29v for the supply and 2v for the “command” signal. Does anyone know if that voltage is correct?

Just ordered a TF-pro salt kit for our new pool and tried to use it for the first time to test chlorine. Opened the cap on the R-0600 reagent bottle to do the 5 drop thing.
When taking the cap off, I dumped most of the contents when the bottle did not have a spout. See the pic below, bottle on right is R-0600, one on left is what I thought it should look like. I assume this is not normal.

Anyway, I sent email to the company I ordered it from hoping they might send a new bottle. Any idea on how I get drops out the remaining contents? Go buy an eye dropper at Target?

Hi all,
Pool season is about to be over here in western PA and my pool heater has started giving me some trouble.
For reference, I have a Pentair MasterTemp 250. Installed in 2012. We bought the house in 2021 and the heater worked fine last 2 years.
When I turn the heater on, it goes through its regular on sequence, the gas is ignited (I hear the whoosh sound), and hot air starts coming out of the exhaust. But within 5s, I hear a relay click and the heating turns off (no more hot air from the exhaust). The heater tries this sequence again after 15ish seconds, and the same results. It runs for 5s and then turns off. After 3 attempts the service heater LED is on and it stops any further heating attempts.

I have looked behind the front panel, and I don't see any error code LEDs on. I have also checked the following sensors:

1. Water pressure switch: Working, I see a short on the multimeter, when the flow rate is sufficient. For now, I am running my VSP on max speed while I debug this issue, so I don't think the flow rate is an issue.

2. HLS: Working, I see a short on the multimeter.

3. AGS: Working, I see a short on the multimeter

4. Thermistor: Measured the resistance and it seems to match the water temperature

5. Air flow switch: Working, checked with a multimeter

6. SFS: Again, I can see the SF temperature go up when the heater is running for 5s, it goes up to 125. But since the heater turns off, after 5s, it stops rising.

7. Thermal regulator: I saw on some threads that this can be caused by the thermal regulator not moving. I checked the regulator. Initially, I suspected it and replaced it (it was a little corroded), but the issue persists even after regulator replacement.

At this point, I am not sure what else I can do. It appears that the heater tries to fire (indeed starts heating), but some sensor tells it that there's a fault and it turns itself off. Where this could be, I am not sure.
Any suggestions and guidance for the next steps to troubleshoot will be really appreciated. Thanks so much!

For some background, I fired my pool company about a year ago. My pool is 25k gallons with cartridge filters. I live in South Carolina, and in the summer have to be super vigilant about algae. My free chlorine levels are constantly super low, and I find myself shocking a few times a week. Its been such a pain to manage and my understanding is that a SWG will make life much easier. I'm currently looking at quotes for a Hayward Aquarite 900 40k gallon installed.

Has anyone else been through this transition? Am I correct in thinking this will help me control free chlorine and avoid algae issues with less work? Is there more information you would need about my pool to give an informed answer?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Hi! I love clean lines so I went for a rectangular pool.

Unfortunately, because of budget we chose a pool size of 29’ x 13’ (of water not coping).

We considered putting the spa completely outside but it’s too much $$.

Current size Sunshelf 8x6 and spa 8x6.

My question is - in this design is the spa too small? How can I make better use of this space?

Should I place the spa, slightly outside?

Any other recommendations?

Thanks!

I just took a sample of pool water to Leslie's, and this is and they came up with, with their preferred ranges in parentheses.

FAC 5.01 ppm (1-4)
Total Chlorine 5.01 (within 0.2 of FAC)
PH 7.6 (7.2 - 7.8)
Total Alkalinity 56 ppm (80-120)
Calcium Hardness 147 ppm (200-400)
CYA 44 ppm (50-100)
Iron 0 ppm (0 - 0.2)
Copper 0.3 ppm (0 - 0.2)
Phosphates 340 ppb (0 - 100)
Salt 2245 ppm (3000-4000)

So, first and foremost they said I gotta do 17 Oz No Metal around the edge of the pool and 1 Culator Powerpack in the skimmer,, which I've done both, but added probably 24oz No Metal by accident. In 24 hours, they said to bring another sample in to ensure the copper is coming down.

The second most important thing to do was to get the Phosphates down after getting the copper down. Then, of course, they've recommended Alkalinity Up, Hardness Plus, Conditioner, and salt. I bought everything at Lowe's (except the No-Phos which I guess I have to go back to Leslie's to get when I retest for copper tomorrow).

I say all this to say the pool has been looking great except some iron/copper looking stains on the pool floor but not a lot, and what looked like black/Grey staining on the whole pool floor but that went away on its own the past week after adding salt. Is all this recommended needed? And, does everyone's pool attract worms, salamanders, etc, or is that because it's unbalanced and creatures think it's the water they live in?

Thanks in advance!

Hello from Houston. Looking at options for having a pool built. Going through 4 different bids and am so so confused.

A good friend recommended this site and thank you all for replying to all questions.

Long story short: Had an above-ground Kayak pool installed in June 2022. We waited the recommended 2 weeks before getting in it and were very careful about "breaking it in" properly. The bottom was always a little lumpy, but this summer (less than one year after install) I started noticing serious holes forming. In the pictures below, every green mark is a divot that is 2-3" deep. These pictures were taken after I used a flat brush to scrub the bottom of the pool - the brush can't get into the crevices (ignore the corners and edges - hadn't gotten to those yet).

Kayak is saying it's not an install issue. They're blaming water tables, burrowing critters, and anything else to get out of fixing it under warranty. They say there would have been a problem sooner than now if it was an install issue. Thing is, I had another above-ground pool set up here for 15+ years with none of these problems - lumpy, sure, but no craters. Thoughts?

I have a 5-year-old Superflo VS. It primes for five minutes, then runs at specified lower speed for an hour or so, then restarts, reprimes, runs again for a while, then stops with Error Code 1A. My pool guy says I need new motor, Pentair Customer Support says it's a Drive problem. I've read that it might be a motor issue, but the motor's not shot. Dunno whether to replace the motor, or the Drive, or what.

I have a Pentair 250 mastertemp that I have been working on all weekend. I changed control board, stack flue and descaled it. I turned it back on today after descale and it ran great for few hours. I return home and it’s completely dead, no lights no nothing. Any ideas or help is greatly appreciated. TIA.

Hey guys,

Equipment all pentair
3 HP variable speed pump
IC40
Tr 100 filter

No automation - seems too expensive for what value it will bring me (no spa)

Current pool spec
20x40
7.5 by 3.5ft deep
33000 gallons.
Likely to enlarge to 22x40 - 36000 gallons.

I’ve even doing some searching but it seems like this ic40 is undersized? The PB said they oversized everything.

Looking for confirmation this is an okay setup?

Hello,
I’m looking to replace my 2HP Hayward NorthStar old pump with a new VS or maybe VSF pump. What will be the recommended one?
I have a 25000 gal salt pool
Thanks in advance

Where can I find the laws for drains in a pool. I only have a skimmer and as far as I know my pump has no entrapment safety features?

I’m wanting to know if my pool was installed breaking laws. At this point it wouldn’t surprise me

Hi. My spa light went out and I attempted to replace the T4 100W 120V halogen bulb. Not hard to do , except that the ceramic (?) base that the T4's prongs insert into has completed disintegrated. Any thoughts on what my options are? Has anyone ever done a in-enclosure repair? I am hesitant to. A new fixture (complete light enclosure and cord) seems to run $350. It is not immediately clear to me how I find the termination spot where I would remove old and connect new run (obviously well above water, and breaker is 60 feet away, and includes under deck run). Maybe I just don't light the spa anymore. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thank you, Joe

I have just excavated my hole for my 20x40 ft pool with an 8 ft deep end. My shallow end floor is ok (not perfect) and the ramp to the deep end hopper is manageable. But my deep end walls are rough due to layers of shale encountered. Although my excavator wasn’t a pool guy” I think he did the best he could with my soil condition. I need to smooth somewhat by hand and the deep end wall corners, but my question is if there are cave ins and roughness due to extruding shale what is the best approach? Is there a stabilization material to use or patch those areas with pool base first ?