I ordered a TF test kit and now Shippsy wants proof that it was manufactured in N. America. I e-mailed tftestkits.net for help, but they haven't gotten back to me. I seem to remember dealing w/this problem in the past, but I don't remember how.
Shippsy says

• Certificate of Origin
• An Exporter's Statement of Origin
• Any other documentation that indicates the country of origin of the goods.
• It can also be a web page screenshot showing where the item is made or manufactured.
• A screenshot of the email directly from the manufacturer/vendor stating that they manufactured or produced the item. The screenshot must cover the sender's details, such as the email address, sender's name, timestamp, and date.

is enough. I've been throughout tftestkits.net looking for anything like this, but haven't found anything.

Just moved in coastal Florida, acquired this pool, equipment's in ok-ish shape., currently working on bringing chemistry into TFP recommendations (test kit should be here today!!!)

Looking to convert to a SWG system, and replace the filter at the same time, the filter works, but its weeping, getting brittle, and if im going to do some work, might as well set it up to last.

My questions are:

I dont currently have an equipment pad, just a few pavers (strategically?) placed, how big should i go, was thinking 4x5 feet?

I believe i have a 120 sqft hayward filter, thinking of going for a 200sqft hayward swimclear or jandy of a similar size, or would the 150 be enough for minimal maintenance.

Would like to eventually automate, but dont want to jump on a new pump just yet, this is where where im torn between the tru-clear for SWG, and Pentair for an eventual pump replacement, ive been told the pump and SWG should be from the same manufacturer to make it all work happily together, thoughts?

Also looking at a robot to clean the bottom. pool shop loves the Polaris freedom, hates everything maytronics, where i was considering a dolphin 400, but i suppose that isn't out yet? I haven't found any real reviews comparing the two that seem unsponsored. or should i bail on cordless, and get a corded model? looking for something that can handle waterline cleaning.

My 2 year old daughter decided it would be funny to throw 2 of these rocks (not sure of size/shape) into the skimmer while I was emptying its contents.

I have turned the pump off for now, but I would like to know if I am still able to turn it on and use it?

Also how do I try to get the rocks out?

Hi all, I purchased a house with a pool a couple of years ago and used a pool maintenance company to service it. This year I want to try to do everything myself. I've been browsing through this site and am really enjoying, and I hope that I'll get al the info I need, and won't destroy my pool!
Right now I would appreciate if someone can help me with the following.
My current pump, pentair whisperflo 011514 (1.5 HP) made a very loud noise last year, which got progressively worse during the season. So question number 1) Should I attempt to replace the bearings or just replace the pump? The pump was installed in 2015. 2) If I replace it, from my research it seems I should get the Superflo VST 342002, is this correct? 3) Is there a difference between Superflo VST 342002 and 342001? and lastly 4) please excuse my ignorance over here, but how do I remove the pipe that's connecting the pump to the valve (please see attached picture), do I need to cut it?
Thanks!
Sam

Hi,
I am an American living on the Mediterranean coast, where we have long, hot, dry summers. Our apartment pool and terrace tile has always been grouted with flexible siliconized grout made for pools, with the brands available in Turkey. Our overflow drainage trench (which has been covered with liquid insulation and mesh the past 3 years, tile underneath), has recessed ridges at the top to support the plastic grating. There is L-shaped plastic trim installed on those ridges around the entire perimeter. Each year we do grout repairs before opening the pool, but there always seem to be increasing cracks in the grout line between the plastic trim and the hard border tile. One pool engineer here said that trim is useless; recommended that we remove it, seal the exposed surface with more liquid insulation, and just sit the grating directly on top of the ridge. Another pool engineer said the plastic is fine; just remove the old cement grout and fill it with epoxy grout instead. I have read and been told that epoxy grout has excellent durability between ceramic tiles. However, since the plastic is prone to flexibility, the hard epoxy could crack and separate at the edge. I am having trouble finding information about this precise problem here. I would appreciate any professional advice. Thank you!

Hello Everyone!

I am new to this forums and pools entirely, we just finished our pool build at our home and are excited to get lots of use out of it this year. I am taking on chemicals and maintenance myself as I have been scouring these forums and have learned quite a lot and feel pretty confident that I can manage it easily.

Here are some specs of the pool and there are a few pictures attached:

Pool Size - 18 X 36 with a 7 X 13 Sun Shelf
Spa Size - 7 X 10 with spillover into pool
Water Features - 3 Copper Scuppers opposite Spa
Finish - Stone Scapes Mini Pebble Salt & Pepper
Pump - Jandy eSeries 2.7 Hp Vsp VSSHP270DV2AS
Filer - Jandy CV Cartridge Filter
Heater - Jandy 400K Btu JXiQ Propane
Lights - Jandy Infinite Watercolors Nichless
SWG - Jandy Aqua Pure PLC 1400
Automation System - iAquaLink RS

Great to be here!

Winterized my pool and everything is completely open and all valves are off but water is pouring from skimmer basket. Can someone help me with this?

I just bought 8 gallons of chlorine from Lowes and I can't find the date code.

Hi

I’m at the end of my month long upgrade to my new OmniLogic panel. I have installed a total of 4 valve actuators.
1. Vlv1 return to spa/pool(adjusts when spa is turned on or pool is turned on)
2. Vlv2 suction from spa(opens when spa is turned on)
3. Vlv3. Additional suction from pool ( to close when spa is turned in)
4. Vlv4 additional suction from pool (to close when spa is turned out in)

I have set up the spa with vlv1 &2. It works when the spa is turned on.

I cannot figure out how to get Vlv3 &4 to actuate to closed when the spa has been turned on. So do I need to actuate these other two valves using an interlock when the spa is turned on? I’ve read through the installation instructions and cannot find the answer.

Began SLAM a few minutes ago! Used the calculator to bring to bring FC to 24.

Stupidly did not change percentage from 6% chlorine to 10%.

At 6% I needed 7 gallons and 2 quarts. After adding looked at calculator and caught my error. Should have added 4 gallons 3 quarts!

Barely any algae at opening visible. Drains clear but pool was extremely dirty and vac died. New one installed today and ran for 3 hours b4 removing vac and starting SLAM.

Yikes - brand new liner last season. Do I just test away as normal and write it off to old age or is there anything else I should do.

FC 2
CC .5
Ph 7.5
CYA 60

Please recommend a contact for the correct parts to refresh my Pentair Whisper Flo pump. Losing pressure and flow, a tad bit noisier than normal.
I'm thinking about replacing all the seals and motor bearings. Five years old, still looks like new.
I would like to use the correct OEM parts.
Thank You

Hi all,
I am looking to upgrade to a salt system but if I understand correctly I need to do a bit of re-plumbing to get the minimum 3' between the heater and cell. I'm thinking if I can somehow re-use that first elbow out of the heater, I can spin it upwards, go up about 1.5-2 feet, across the current intake pipe and back down to tie back into the inlet at the valve back to the pool/spa, with the cell on the downward pipe in the front. I guess plan B if I can't re-use the elbow I'll need to source a new union and start that part from new.

I've been looking CircuPool Universal25 Salt Chlorine Generator at discount salt pool with their $10 upgrade to the 40k version or the Pureline Pool Salt System 40,000 Gallons, Chlorine Generator, Control Panel & Salt Cell - Model PL7700 at inyo for about the same. Both seem to get decent praise from what I can tell, the discount salt seems to have a 4 year warranty vs the 1 at inyo with both advertising about the same output so I'm leaning away from inyo unless there's something I'm not seeing. I do have an automation system (no-name relay based) but I'm ok with just a simple on/off for control, I don't see needing to adjust output often enough to go with the hayward one given the extra $1k for that.

Off topic, I would like to replace the temperature sensor but my automation system uses a DS18B20 3 wire sensor instead of the thermistor that everyone normally uses for that shape of sensor, if someone knows of a similar mounting or something where I can slip in my own sensor, I'd be grateful for any leads. This seems like a somewhat custom part and the manufacturer is unfortunately out of business so I can't source a new one that way.

Hi all, I have a new pool build that was completed in Dec 2024 and have learned a lot browsing these forums. I wished I discovered it earlier in the build process so that I could have avoided certain issues.

Now that it's all done and I've been maintaining the pool for a few months now I just wanted to get your thoughts on my SWG usage. I feel it's a bit high from reading others' accounts. Currently seg runs for 5 hrs/day for a 8000 gallon pool to keep FC around 5-5.5.

Jandy Truclear SWG - ran at 50% for 10 hrs/day and keeps FC around 5-5.5
Pool - 8000 gallon gunite
Alk - 80
PH - rise quick to 8.2 or over and brought down to 7.4 every two or three days (rise caused by new plaster?)
CYA - 70
CH - 300
Salt - 3000

Does anything seem seem off or anything I should adjust?

I am waiting for water temps to get to 60-65 to get the new SWG up and running. I am using pucks until then since I am off site. I go out 1x a week to restock pucks, test / balance chemistry and run the robot.

Once the SWG comes online, what is the correct setting to start at being I am not on site daily. I think maybe shoot high, add liquid to give the SWG time to get up to speed?

Pool chemistry will be close to perfect at the switchover.

So exact questions are:

1. Once I get to temp, what settings to leave SWG on it is an RJ60+
2. How many gallons of Chlorine to add initially? I have regular Clorox bleach and also Super Shock (Diamond Brand from Leslies)

Thanks

Jeff

Looking for recommendation for a 140K BTU HP (large single phase ). From looking over multiple manufactures spec sheet the efficiency are all similar (as expected). Are there mfg that are more DIY install accepting? Warranty for DIY install? Any brands more or less reliable than others or last longer? It looks like R410A is going to be phased out to R32. Doesn't look like there are many domestic R32 HP, they mainly look to be imported. R32 should be a little more efficient, not sure if it will be significant enough to tell.

I looked at running NG when redoing the pool a few years ago, but it was going to $8K to $10K to run a line and upgrade the service to my home, so out of the budget and the running cost was about double of a HP. I ended up upsizing the electrical service to the pool, I was replacing it already, only cost more for larger wire and larger conduit.

Like a lot of folks here, I am seeing the dreaded 125/194 codes again now on my system for the third time since the pool was built. We are now just at the end of the 4th season on this pool and we are on our 3rd SWG cell that is now dying. I've had both replacements put in as warranty replacements by the PB, but I think I am on my own now. This last one lasted almost exactly 1 year, which I think is abnormally short. Examining the SWG cell and taking it apart, I found that the center post is completely corroded through (disconnected) at the point where it connects to the center plate. I have never cleaned the cell with acid nor does it have any deposits on it at all. It looks completely clean, like new except for that center post.

Why is it corroding so fast? I have had to SLAM the pool twice this season, but other than that the chemistry has been within TFP guidelines the whole time (only CYA is a little lower but my SWG duty cycle peaks at 40% mid-summer to maintain FC so I think that is good enough). CYA has been around 40-50, the FC around 3-4, I let the pH rise to about 7.9-8.0 before adjusting back down to 7.6 with acid, TA is 50-60 and CH 125-150. Last fall the CSI was just below zero (but pH was high at that time at 8.0 to 8.1), over the winter it dropped to -0.7 to -0.9, but the SWG is only at 10% (or off when water is below 50F). In the spring and over the summer, the CSI has been around -0.6 to -0.7.
Does anything in the chemistry look like it could be conducive to the posts corroding so bad?

Now to my repairs: I tried to solder the post to the plate, but that didn't work, I guess the metals are just not compatible with soldering. I then tried brazing with a copper brazing rod (used for HVAC copper tubing). That didn't want to flow and stick either.
Next, I drilled small holes in the rod and in the top of the plate and reconnected the post to the plate with a short copper wire then wrapped the wire and the connection to the post in waterproof gorilla tape. This worked and it was drawing 6.8A again and produced a lot of hydrogen bubbles. But it only last about 1.5 days before the codes were back again. Taking the cell apart, I found that the complete copper wire was gone (dissolved I suppose) with only a small stub left in the post.

Next, I used a steel nail to make the connection and wrapped the whole rod, connection to the nail, and the connection to the plate completely in gorilla tape to waterproof the whole thing. It's been in the pool for about 12 hours now and still working *knock on wood*.

Has anybody else tried repairing these? It seems crazy to throw away an $600 part only because one connection comes loose!!

Thanks!
Sam

I've got a leak from the water outlet inside my heat pump. It's not broken PVC as far as I can tell, just the seal where the PVC pipe meets the tank where the water is heated. What can I use to seal the connection from the pipe to the tank that will actually work?
I've seen older threads with caked on silicone that looked pretty bad. Some said epoxy wouldn't hold well on an outlet pipe. What's the right fix, and are there specific products you would recommend?

Hello, could anyone please advise on a good lubricant for a peristaltic pump hose (the one between the rollers) ? I am using a Seko pump with a Pharmed BPT (TPE) hose for acid injection. I've seen conflicting information online: some sites mention not to use silicon-based lubricants, some say to use pure silicon grease, and others recommend glycerin or water based options, etc.

what do you guys typically use for this ? will the typical Jack 327 Pool gasket Lube damage those TPE hoses ?

Also, if I need a specific one, can you guys recommend a brand / website where you can buy a small amount? I found some places that specifically sell peristaltic hose lubricant but they only sell that the bucket...

Thanks!

Hello I have an aqua trol it’s firmware is a 1.45 it does not have a way to change salt cell My daughter bought me a new cell for mine was dues after 7 seasons was a t5. But she bought a t9 for my birthday Problem is there is no way to change cell size and we passed the time of return any ideas what I can do

Hey all,

I’m having a hard time finding out videos on how to install this upgrade kit to an existing S3 set up. Looking at the installation manual I can tell most of the stuff is very simple…except the lights.

My pool lights are currently hooked up to a Hayward Colorlogic controller, how do I transfer control to my new Omni board so I can control them remotely? All the electrical work has been done, breakers, transformer, etc since all that had to be done before hand when the pool builder set up the ColorLogic controller, just need to run the appropriate wires so that the lights are controlled by the Omni upgrade board instead of the ColorLogic controller on the wall. I’ve attached a few pics of my whole set up for reference…

Thanks y’all!

V

I found TFP near the end of last year. I'm SO excited to open today and implement all I have learned. I'm having the equipment professionally opened today, but they are not touching my chemicals. I switched companies to one that doesn't monkey with that side of things.

We're opening a little earlier than normal to be clean and ready to go for a gathering in two weeks.

Get to be a little chemist checking all my levels soon!

I love my 3900 Sport but recently the feed hose has been disconnecting from the vacuum tube / feed pipe assembly. I have replaced the feeder hose connector but still having this issue. The feed pipe looks like in good shape with no visible cracks / chips / defects and the factory o-ring is still in place.

Whenever, I connect the feed hose to the Polaris 3900 Sport, it no longer “clicks” and does not make a good connection.

What could be the issue? How can I remedy this?

I've had billowing in my new vinyl pool several times and have chosen to let the water table subside. It turned out well—everything returned to form. This last storm (once in a generation, though I've heard that before) has produced floating vinyl beyond my imagination. See the picture below.

Should I be patient and let the water find its own way out? I suppose this will require some looking after to manage the potential for wrinkles. OR start pumping some, if not all, of the water from behind, again with brushing of wrinkles, etc. Thoughts anyone? @Dirk?

McLeod

This issue is driving me crazy. The Jandy LXI400N heater was working fine. Now, turning it on for the first time this season, it won't work. The heater motor starts up and runs for a long time. Finally, after quite a while you hear a click inside, which I assume is the heater calling for gas? Nothing happens. It eventually shuts down and gives off an ignition fault code. It never lights off at all.
I called in an "authorized" repairman. He put a gauge on the unit somewhere inside. The gauge shows gas pressure to spec, but when the heater calls for gas the pressure drops to below spec. He says that there is a problem with the gas supply. I called in a plumber who checked the gas supply and he says it's just fine.
I then called in a repairman from another place to look at the heater. He said it needed a new igniter. He put one in. No change at all. He put the same gauge on the unit that the other guy did and got the same result. He says it's a gas supply issue. I then called in yet another separate plumber. He says there is no issue at all with the gas supply. Arrrggghhhh!
I then called in a THIRD different heater repairman. He's not sure what's wrong. He believes it's the internal solenoid controlled gas valve, which he believes has an internal regulator on it that he believes is faulty. He wants to install a new one and see what happens. That's all well and good except the darned valve is $500!! If it doesn't fix it I'm out $500 and still have an inoperative heater.
Do any of you out there have any ideas on what could be happening here?? I'm about to pull out what little hair I have left.

Hi, one of my Jandy 2 way valve cracked over the winter and sprung a leak. I managed to get the old one off but have trouble figuring out how to put the new one on. As you can see in the picture, there are valves next to it which does not provide much wiggle room tonout the valve in. Any suggestions how to get it in there? I can use a couple of unions but wanted a uniform look if possible.

Also, I am opening the pool because I will be away for a couple of weeks and don’t want a geeen surprise. Is it safe to plug the pressure side with a freeze plug? I don’t need this like for now as it’s for the steps. It looks like it’s working but wanted to make sure it won’t blow out since I’m away.

Thanks.

Recently purchased a Scuba S1 and have been pretty happy with it. The only problem is I get extremely fine silt/sand left behind. I'm assuming this is too small for the 180micron filter basket it comes with. I'm not aware nor could find any replacement baskets so I'm thinking of getting 50 micron filter sheets (like what a fish tank uses, I think they call it polishing filter) and lining the inside of the basket with it. I was curious if anyone else has attempted this before regardless of the make of their pool robot?

we are replacing our 20 year old liner this May. We like a specific pattern but i'm told that it only comes with this embossed "pearluster" finish that, while looking nice, can make keeping it clean harder as it tends to trap dirt/debris.
We have a dolphin robot vacuum and i check the water balance probably every other day or so. I've been doing all my own pool maintenance for two years on it now, but i am using a pool company to install the new liner.

Does anyone have any experience with these kinds of liners? Is it a nightmare to keep clean? Not a big deal? just trying to gauge it before we commit to a final choice.



Thinking about the Sea Stone Marble which is only available with that specific kind of embossed finish

Hi Everyone,

I need some help. I am planning on replacing my existing Booster Pump a Pentair Boost Rite (LA-MS05). The pool store recommended the Pentair LA01N. I have read the various thread on robot vs booster and not ready to make that switch yet. I also read this thread Booster Pumps - Further Reading.

Now I am trying to find a good price on the unit and also open to other options. PoolPlaza.com came up in my search and they had 2 units with different manufacturer SKUs with a price difference of $120.

• LA01N-DUP --> $449
• EC-LA01N --> $569

Here are my questions:

• It seems like the same unit, but curious if anyone knows what the difference between the units?
• I am looking for recommendations on the best site to order the booster pump from?

Thanks,
ktr32

Looking for your valued input on our in progress gunite pool renovation in frost thaw climate Central NJ. The demolition of our former cantilevered concrete decking is complete and this week the PB will begin on removing tile and get to starting the renovation work.
In trying to understand the materials that will be used (reading the TDS). In phone discussion it does not appear that the PB is aware of the TCNA EJ171 Movement Joint guidelines for exterior applications for ceramic and stone, the location and the frequency of these soft joints are called for every 8 ft to 12ft depending on the materials and environmental conditions. We HAD for 21 years tile that never came off the pool (including through this weeks jackhammering!) and back then with the cantilevered deck and NO coping - we had no soft joints in the tile. Now wondering since we will have 12X24x1.5 inch thick granite coping and will be using a 6X6 THROUGH BODY Porcelain water line tile on this renovation, should I be pushing the PB to put in the soft joints if it hasn't been their practice? If I am understanding properly the "soft joint" would be a 100% silicone material and would be in the TILE and then Up through the granite coping stone, too. IS this something to insist on or is it something to go not have and then down the road IF there is cracking, deal with later (not preferable). Not sure if we are allowed to mention product brand names here so want to be respectful. THANK You all in advance
Picture of pool to be redone below so you can see the raised wall of tile too.

So basically I replaced both my old regular pump and my cartridge filter for a variable speed pump and a DE filter. I ended up draining the pool(22,000 gallons) and refilled the pool yesterday and today. The pool guy came over and turned on the pump for the first time and set it running to 5 hours because he needed to add the DE powder to the skimmer to complete the installation of the DE filter.

Anyway, he didn't show me how to program the pump so I decided to just watch a bunch of YouTube videos on how to set the RPM, time, and duration for all 3 programs or 2 if I just want 2 different speeds each day.

I guess my question is, what numbers do people generally set their RPMs? My pool is pretty small at only 22,000 gallons. Do you guys use all 3 programs, just 2 different programs or just 1 program for the whole day? I'm currently looking to get a new pool vacuum to run during the middle of the day while I'm at work so I imagine the pump would need more speed for vacuum to run right?

I'm adding some powder conditioner and chlorine tomorrow morning so I'm thinking I might need to run the pump pretty high right? What's a good RPM for when I'm adding conditioner and chemicals?