My pool is 24 years old. The pool filter housing has been leaking and I am about to replace it (too many broken components). I bought the new housing and am getting ready to switch them out. Do I need to change out the pipes or the unions? The housing is the newest version of the older housing so the inlet/outlet openings are the same as far as size, height, etc.
Just wondering if I would need to change out the unions.

The last two pools I've done have been the summer waves 14' round 48" deep. While I have enjoyed them, the last one had a manufacturing defect last summer causing a seam rip and I lost an entire month out of the peak of the summer season and I was pretty bummed. 30 day warranty sadly, so I just had to take the loss.

Right after that I looked @ Intex and I found the perfect pool. It was 15' round 52" deep with a 2-year warranty.

Now it's......gone from their site??? I really liked that one, I feel like the extra couple inches in depth would go a long way.

You can get 52" in much larger pools but I don't have the space.

In a 16' round or less size, what should I be looking at, preferably in 52" depth? And not blue exterior!!

Also, I noticed that there are some permanent pools in these size ranges that are within my budget (ideally under 2k) but then right next to them on the site will be an identical pool for 3k more. Would it be possible to get into a permanent pool that will last me a few years under 3k out the door? That might be something I would look into.

Thanks!

Hello everyone, I'm really happy to have discovered the TFP website

I've read all your articles, but where should I start to balance my newly filled water?

Here are the results:
pH 7.2
FC 0.1
TC 0.1,
Alkalinity 19
Calcium Hardness 44
CYA 5
Phosphate 119.

Thank you for your help.

I’m confused as to what this could be. I had 4 bottles of 10% LC leftover from last fall. They were made in September 2023 (so 7 months old). They’ve been sealed with the seal and vent cap. From the moment I opened these, there is this brown “dirt” looking stuff at the bottom. You can “shake it up” and it will just turn the sodium hypochlorite solution a dark amber / brown color instead of the usual light yellowish green color. What is this? It seems to be slightly less potent than expected. This is from Atwood’s and is brand named “online pool shock”. I don’t remember it being like this before.

Thoughts?

Well, I was randomly surfing on Amazon (yes I have a problem). And I discovered a Betta SE Plus.

It has the missing feature we were all looking for adaptor based charging in addition to solar. Now I just got my Betta 2 back, but had they offered me an upgrade to the plus I probably would have taken it.

I recently purchased an Intelliconnect to monitor/adjust water temp. I have a Superflo VS pump and Raypak/Rheem Superflo VS. According to the manual, it cannot control this particular pump. If I get the Intellisync and connect it to the pump could I then connect it to the Intelliconnect?

Bought this home with its 13' x 26' freeform pool in FL about a year ago. Have noticed that the water level seems to quickly seep down to even with or just below some of the small cracks around the pool's top edge, and then stay stable. See pictures. I don't know what this material is, but I'm hoping to be able to fill in these small non-displaced cracks. There's ~8 of them spread around the pool, all at or above the waterline. Is filling them in a good idea, and if so, what would I use to fill them in?

Just completed a renovation. Home has 37 year old Anthony Pool. Just bought a Polaris360. Got a few questions.

So basically my question is simple.
If I’m using the 10ml sample, do I use one or two scoops?

Reason I ask is because I read somewhere on this forum that it’s only 1 scoop. But the instructions on the k-2006c never mentions 1 scoop for the 10ml sample. Any thoughts?

Hey Everyone. We are in the process of opening our pool and realized that after running the hose for a while the pool still wasn't filling back up. I pulled the cover to find the lighting niche was broken over the winter (see pictures). I am not sure what the repair will require. The pool is 2 years old. Does this seems like something that should be covered under some warranty? I have a message out to my builder, but I want to be prepared when I discuss it. Thanks!

Hi all, I have a weekly pool service for my pool. Part of their job is to test the water and add chemicals as needed. I also clean the pool myself (emptying the skimmer baskets multiple times a week, clean the filter as needed, check water chemistry etc).

Yesterday my pool service tech came out and did the routine cleaning. Before he left he dumped what looks like a powdery substance that comes in a large white bucket with blue text. Hard to see what it was from my security camera footage. What I could see right away is how cloudy the water got where he was dumping it into the water. It was mostly concentrated in the deep end.

I keep my pool open year round and the water has never been cloudy in the year and a half since construction was completed. The water is always crystal clear. I've had the service from the very beginning as well.

The water chemistry before he added chemicals (I don't know what all was added by him) was as follows:


I stopped by the pool store where he is based and brought in another water sample to be tested. The tech left no notes so they said he likely added calcium and if the pH is high then it won't break down as effectively which leads to the cloudiness. I added 6lbs of pH Down earlier today as a result. I'm guessing he also added shock because Free Chlorine was much higher and there was a half empty bottle next to my pool equipment left behind.

These are the results from today's water test (< 24 hours later):


What should I be doing or is this normal? I have been brushing the pool since there are large deposits forming on my tanning ledges and at the bottom of the deep end. Brushing them disperses it.

Hello, problem with my Aqua Logic pool, uses AQL-PS-8 controller. My Aux 3 relay runs an Edge Pool pump. Recent problem now is when the Aux 3 runs (either via timed schedule, or when run Manually), the system shuts it down and goes into Service Mode. I can successfully run Aux 3 pump while in Service Mode, but as soon as I turn off Service, and try to run Aux 3 manually, goes right back into Service Mode.
This seems to be only happening with Aux 3 Edge Pool Pump, as I have Aux 5 running a Waterfall pump, and this Aux 5 runs fine via timed schedule, as well as running manually.
Any thoughts as to why Aux 3 Edge Pool Pump triggers the system to go into Service Mode? My system is around the 2006 timeframe, but all was running fine up until about late March 2024. thanks

Hello everyone,

I have a Fibro Fiberglass pool that have roughly 30 000 liters of water using a salt chlorinator. When I loaded the information in the PoolMath app, I get the following recommended level:

• FC: 1.0 - 3.0
• pH: 7.2 - 8.0
• TA: 50 - 90
• Hardness: 250 - 650
• Cyanuric Acid: 60 - 90

When Fibro sold me the pool, they gave me maintenance guide which says to keep the water in these levels:

• FC: 0.6 - 1.5 ppm
• pH: 7.4 - 7.6
• TA: 80 - 120ppm
• Hardness: 80 - 240
• CYA: ~60 ppm

Looking at these number, it seems beside pH, all number don't really follow TFPC recommended level.
FC start lower and end in the middle of the recommended, TA start at nearly the maximum of TFPC and end way higher. As for hardness, it's the total opposite not even reaching the recommended level. At least CYA seems to be consistent.

So I'm wondering, who do I follow? I never had trouble with my pool to be honest. I normally do the red and yellow test for ph and chlorine, once a month the salt level and for the first month when opening the pool, I go do a pool chemistry test at my local pool shop which use exactly the TFPC kit and give me the result. Only thing I bought from them in the past was either chlorine, something for ph, calcium for hardness and that's about it.

Trying on my own now with TFPC and I'm unsure which number to target for, manufacturer or TFPC.

Thank you

I discovered a leak in my filter pump late last week. I'm assuming it's the shaft seal, I don't see water leaking around the inlet, outlet or basket, only under the motor housing. It was a fairly slow leak that looks to be growing. I have a warranty maintenance call for Tuesday (6 more days), but I'm wondering if I should stop running the pump, or reducing the run time until then.

I have a separate pump for water features that also has a return into the pool, I could run that for circulation, but it obviously won't utilize the skimmer or SWCG.

I appreciate any advice.

Hello,

I have a Hayward Aquarite goldline SWG that is reading 0. The salt levels are around 3,000 by a test. I do not hear a click when turning the SWG on. Is this the salt cell or main PBC?

This is really a minor issue, but since I’ve opened my pool up for the Spring, the pool drain is now gurgling when water surface is disrupted. I did a search to find out if there were any silencers for drains like this? Also, it looks pretty ugly. First world problems.
iCloud Photos - Apple iCloud

I’ll just drop this here for your viewing pleasure. Please check my numbers and offer any helpful comments.

I purchased new cartridge filters for my Hayward Swimclear. These are supposed to be direct replacements for original. Everything measured out fine, but the cartridges would not seat on the base. I placed them in the sun and was able to get them on the base, but then the alignment “spider” at the top of the filters would not go on so I went to remove the cartridges and on of the base pieces broke. I’ll need to buy and install a new one and wonder if it’s a difficult job. It’s too late to return cartridges, any suggestions on getting them to fit properly? I thought about filing down the edges a bit to see if that will work. Any ideas? Thank you.
Chris
Hayward Swimclear C3020
Inground pool 15X30

Just a reminder for opening that if you open based on pool temperature instead of an arbitrary date, you won't open to a swamp. I open when the temp is above 60. It is currently hovering around 50. I figure 2-3 more weeks and I will open.

They announced a surface skimmer at CES. Supposed to ship at the end of the month. It is pricey.

However, it has the one feature we have all be screaming for which is charging. I say this longingly as I look at my Betta just floating in the pool due to our 6 weeks of overcast weather.

I'm looking into buying entry steps for my above ground pool. I have small deck/patio and would need to take them out end of season to cover the pool. Anyone have any luck finding a product that can be attached for stability, but will come out of pool to cover. Most that I see are like the Confer, and have two stabilizers to attach to deck. Can these be easily attached/detached according to season?

For Atlas Industrial ORP sensor they sent me recently: despite their website claiming 3/4 NPT, it is not. The thread is something different. Can’t be certain but I think it is 3/4 BSPT. I bought an adaptor on Amazon $14 and a #14 o-ring from Ace (BSPT uses o-ring for sealing and the gasket supplied with the adaptor is not suitable). Now everything fits perfectly! Don’t know what Atlas’ deal is, I emailed them with no response.

My multi port valve developed a leak under the handle last year. After winterizing the pool, I took the multi ported valve apart, reset the spider gasket and put it back together.
I also took apart the handle assembly, but did not pay attention on how I put it back together. I suspect I have the insides turned 180°, since now the handle position is not in the correct position when I tried to set it to filtering.
Of course, now my pool is filled back up, it is still leaking water from under the handle, and the handle position is offset from what it was last year. All the original labeling is long gone, I made my own label position.
Any tips on how to take everything apart without having water gush everywhere?

Filter is AquaTools 300lb sandfilter

Hi guys

Pool enclosures seem to be a great idea, especially in cooler environments (I'm in the UK, East Midlands!) and where you can make use of the sun (Northern hemisphere & I've got a south facing garden... although it's still the UK so limited sun!!). However, the "nicer" ones - i.e. telescopic opening ones - seem to cost £££ (or should I say $$$ on here?!).

My other issue is that it's going to be an AGP and unlikely I can "dig down" even a little (due to various boring factors I won't go into here) and that means any enclosure can't be higher than 1m (as there's a legal / planning permission rule over garden / external structures over 2.5m, and the pool is 1.5m high... although I'm trying to seek clarification / confirmation with my local authority), plus, it would need to fit & sit on the AGP pools sides - which are usually thin / not designed to take weight load. However, I might build decking up to/around the pool, to make it look nicer and also provide "seating" for a pool enclosure.

I had another idea though - how about I enclose the entire thing - i.e. the exposed above ground sides of the pool too (which would help with heat loss) - as it will only be 4 x 2 metres in size? I've seen cheap polytunnels (plastic / acrylic greenhouses) that are 6 x 4 m, which would just about fit the space I have available and would also protect the pool equipment from the elements?!

There's a few problems I can see with this. First is the fact these things usually have only one entrance (door at one end), and don't really open up. On a hot day that's not going to be great... some have windows which would open up a little, but it'd be far preferable to be "open to the skies". Again though... I'm in the UK, no that's not going to exactly be a high percentage of days!

Also, if I have a heat pump - would that work well in that humid environment? Actually, it may work better than one fully external, as it should be warmer... although they output cold air, right? So I'd have to vent that out somehow...

An ideal solution would be if there's a polytunnel out there that assembles in pieces, potentially two halves or even 4 quarters, that could quickly and easily be disassembled, and is light enough so that a portion could be physically moved out of the way to open up the pool...?

Not sure if such an option exists or whether I'm living in cuckoo cloud land again, but I'm going to have a long and thorough google research session!

Anyone covered their pool with a greenhouse / polytunnel type solution? I did find one example on YouTube and it sounded good, although there was no way his could be opened up...

Cheers
Ross AKA "the mad inventor"

P.S.

Oh... I saw this !!!


Yeah. It's probably not great... but could extend the season a bit. You'd have to take it off and put it away though whenever the wind picked up (and I've noticed it's windier in my new house than where I used to live, seems we're on a high-ish point of land) and would definitely have to put away during winter. Although I'd also be concerned a polytunnel may break in winter... if there's heavy snow. Although it seems my spot of east midlands in Leicestershire randomly seems to miss snow as opposed to a few miles up/down the road, so I may get away with that... just needs to be wind proof!

We installed our own pool in 2013 other than the liner which we had professionally installed. It's time to replace it and so we called the same guy since he did a great job and at a fair price the first time around. We now have a deck built all the way around the pool and so he suggested a beaded liner. However, the receivers he suggested don't go over the top of the pool edge, they screw in to the pool wall just below the top. I want to do a little more research on this but I've searched and searched and can't even find a screw-in receiver. This guy started a large pool company in CenTex years ago but sold it to his nephew and now just does installs - mainly in-ground - so I trust him, but would still like to read up on it. Has anyone ever heard of this? Is there a special term for it? Do you know where I can find info on it?

Also, has anyone had a negative experience with beaded liners? I wish I would have known about them before we surrounded our pool with a deck.

Happy Spring everyone! It’s been unseasonably warm here, meaning my pool water warmed much earlier than expected, leaving me with my first green mess.



Had to add a little water to reach skimmer level.

FC was 0 as expected, CYA still reading 60 from the fall… the water I added may have diluted that a bit, but treating at 60 level until I re-test cya tomorrow.

pH came in between 7-7.2.

2 gallons of 12.5% had me reading 15 after 15 minutes, but gallon 3 then had me overshoot SLAM level at 35. Oh well, we’ve got a strong start.

Now we start the wait, test, add, brush game.

I recently changed the sand on my hayward S244T filter and now it's putting sand back into pool after backwashing and rinsing. I was very careful with the standpipe and laterals during the change out. I filled the filter about 1/2 full with water prior to adding sand slowly and carefully so I don't think lateral damage is the culprit. I have read a lot about sand in the sightglass during the backwash cycle but I don't see any sand in my sightglass until I switch to rinse.

What's the highest breaker I can put on this wire coming from the house to my pool heater? It has a 50amp breaker currently. Just wondering, thanks

Jimrahbe said:

C,

I had assumed this was a new pool, but I now see it is just new to you. If the pumps have been working for a year or two, then it is not a F/W issue. Look at the pump, it should have a date of mfg. on the label. Let us know what it is...

You can't hurt the pump by running it too fast or too slow or for too long.

The pump is normally controlled by the automation from the small black cable that plugs into the side of the pump's control panel. When the automation is in control, your pump's display should say "Display not active".

Since your pump has an RPM display, this means you have lost communications to the pump.

Using your app, turn on the pool light and then go out a visually confirm the light is actually on. Then push the button on the main panel to turn the light off and make sure the app shows the light is off. If this works, that confirms that the RS-485 com bus is still working and that something is wrong on the pump side. Could be the pump or it could be the cable.

1. Check to make sure the end of the cable is connected to the com port inside the automation.
2. Disconnect the cable going to the pump and inspect both ends and make sure there is no corrosion.

If it is not the cable, then the control head is bad. (Assuming everything else on the RS-485 bus is working ok,)

Thanks,

Jim R.

Click to expand...

Hi Jim,
I am having the same problem and I did exactly what you have suggested. Everything checks out and still no communication between the ScreenLogic app and the pump.
You said the control head could be bad. What is and where is the control head ?
Do you think updating the screnlogic interface adapter would help ?

Hi fellow spa owners!

I have owned a used spa for a few years now that came along with our house. The cover has always had a dip on one side, and that allows rain to pool in that part of the cover instead of rolling off. I'm always lifting the cover to remove that pool of water.

Additionally, when I open the spa, the edges of the inside of the spa cover look wet, unlike the rest of the cover.

Does this mean my cover is toast? Do I need to buy a new one? It seems to still retain heat well, and keep critters/leaves out, which is the main reason to have the cover. But I can replace if needed.