I have an Evolution Spas Rockport plug-n-play that I converted to 240. After several years, the spa pack fried out. I couldn't find the stock spa pack, so I replaced it with a BP7 unit. The motor short cycles, and I have narrowed the issue down to it being a 115v motor that is receiving 240v. I see in the instructions how to convert the entire pack to 115, but my breaker provides 240. So really, I just need to figure out how to supply just the pump with 115v. I have an inquiry into Balboa in the meantime, but I'm wondering if anyone is familiar with the system.

If the only path forward to keep it in 240v mode is to replace the motor with a 240v unit, I am not opposed to that. I would rather that, than to switch the electrical supply to 120v.

Thanks for any advice!

Russ

Hi just became a proud owner of the rj60 plus and so far, very happy with it.
I am running home assistant and I can monitor the power consumption of the cell generator.
I have setup the SWG to 20% and noticed that the production of chlorine only happens twice
during the 4 hours that I run my pump as show bellow.

It produced chlorine for 35 or so minutes twice so the pump is running for 3 hours doing nothing.
Should I run the pump just twice for 1 hour to save in energy if so what would be the best time to run the pump right now is set from 08:00am to 12:00PM
Best regards

Hi, I’m Sarah, mom of 6 kids in NC- New pool owner, fiberglass pinnacle 40, love love it so far! No problems yet

Hello everyone.
This is Juan from NY. Bought a house with a pool 2 years ago and I have been using the pool maintenance company the previous owner used for the last 2 summers. This year I decided to do start doing it myself. A bit familiar but still lots to learn!

Hi All - Happy Pool Opening Season!

Have learned a lot from this community since first getting a pool in 2022. However, my pH is a constant struggle especially through the winter close period. The pH shoots so high it creates scale. Here are the results of my final test before closing (before SLAM) and my first test 24 hours after opening and keeping the pump running. Any thoughts around what might be contributing to my pH shooting up during winter? Our winter was harsh too with almost 3 months with temps 32 or below.

Closing:
FC - 9
TA - 50
CYA - 70
pH - 7.8
CH - 350
Salt - 3400
CSI - (0.49)

Opening:
FC - 2
TA - 80
CYA - 30
pH - 8.2+ (it's the brightest magenta)
CH - 300
Salt - 2600
CSI - 0.14

I added a gallon of liquid chlorine this morning so I expect FC to bump up from 2 to 6.

Hi! I've had a Jacuzzi J225 (280 gallons) for 2 weeks. I can do math and understand pH so I was feeling...pretty confident. But:

I filled the tub from a hose, shocked it, waited a day, and tested. Test strip is shown below. It looked like--pH was way too high, and alkalinity was a bit low. So I added 1/4c of baking soda to increase the alkalinity and 2tsp of sodium bisulfate to lower the pH. Tested the next day, got the same result. I've now done this 4 times and the test strip is not changing. I got a different brand of test strip to make sure the strips weren't the problem. I've been testing every couple of days and getting the same results every time.

What does this mean? I can keep adding sodium bisulfate if that's the answer, but I'm wondering if something else is up given that the alkalinity isn't changing much either.

I have an older Saratoga Spa Adelphi. It needs a replacement controller. It has a 3/4” circulation system with a circulation pump. The thing I am struggling with is that the controllers all seem to be spec’d for 25 gpm min and my circ pump is 14 gpm. What am I missing? What do I need?

I opened the pool this year all by my lonesome this time with it being our 3rd opening, and not being present for the first one. The water was little cloudy with not too much gunk in the pool.

My first readings came in at the below:

1. FC = 1
2. PH = 7.8
3. TA = 80
4. CYA = 70
5. CH = 250
6. Salt = 3600
7. Borates = 46
8. Water temp = 50F

I added 5 Gallons of 12.5% this afternoon, and just tested again. My FC shot to 42, and when I did the Pool Math 5 gallons was a little over what was recommended. I didn't think it would jump that much. I buy my FC at a local family owned place who has giant vats and supposedly makes it themselves. I'm wondering if the % may have been higher than 12.5.

Should I be worried, should I do anything to neutralize, or just let it burn off on it's own with the auto-cover open?

Last year, traditionally when my auto-cover is closed FC has burned off SUPER quick.

I am looking to open my pool early as I am selling my house and have a photographer coming in a week. My temperature is -2 celsius at night and in between 10 and 15 degrees celsius during the day. Is that safe to open my pool?

The flapper bypass valve in my American Spas (Cal Spas) broke (I found the spring and flapper in the heating element). However, the flapper is slightly larger than the opening which I assume is there to remove it. The first picture shows the old one - I had to break of the tabs holding the spring to get it out. The other two pictures are showing the new one. There is absolutely no way this will fit in the opening. I even tried to file down those tabs slightly but just won’t fit. How the heck did they get in the first one? Anybody encountered this? Is there any other way to access?

Florida resident here are my stats
pH 7.8
TA 80
CH 300
CYA 70
Temp 80 deg
SL 3600 ppm
I am getting zero chlorine from my SWG. (4 years old) Currently using LC until I get this figured out.
My water is crystal clear but I check it about once a month in the off season compared to 2-3 times per week during season. I turned on the heater to warm it up for the grand kids and checked the chemistry only to find zero chlorine. The LEDs are all green accept the cell light blinks green as well as the word cell is in display.
The water looked good but I decided to do an OCLT anyway to be sure since this has happened in the past however with algae present. It was all good. I was due for a filter change anyway so I did that at the same time.
Waited a few days turning the cell up to 80% but when checked still nothing. I decided to open it up and clean the blades with a wooden popsicle type stick because there was some although little scaling. I did a 4-1 acid soak after for 10 mins. replaced and tested a few days later but still 0. I have not given up yet since I have no red or yellow lights or error codes, just the green blinking cell light and the word cell, which I have no idea?
Any ideas?

I have a Hayward Hydrapure unit that is only about 3 months old. Recently it started making a humming noise like a fan is running. But when I looked at the schematics I don’t see that there is fan or any moving parts for that matter. Do any of you know what may be causing this noise? It is pretty loud and annoying.

So I got a new wireless thermometer and it finds its way into the skimmer. I can't just fix it to the wall somewhere due to the electric robot. Is there any negative to keeping it in the skimmer? Deep thoughts on a Saturday evening.

I have a 15k gallon guinite salt pool that is cloudy. CYA is only at 35 or 40 (hate testing this). I’m trying to raise that but my FC is at 5 so I would think the low cya isn’t causing the cloudiness. Below are my full readings.

FC 5.0
PH 7.4 (cpl days ago was at 8 )
TA 80 (Cpl days ago was at 100)
CH 290
CYA 35

My understanding is cya helps protect the free chlorine from the sun and elements. So if cya is low, means low or no FC which is what causes problems but I don’t have low FC. CH is on the low end but I wouldn’t think it would cause cloudiness.

Any advice? Thx!

Bought the house last year, and right away had a flow problem. I have a sta rite dura glass 2 system, single speed. Its a smaller inground pool that only has one 1 1/2 inch pipe coming in, and one going back to the pool, no shut off or diverter valves. I had replaced the cartridge filter, pump lid and seal, and it made a difference for a couple months but now I barely get anything. I took off the diverter, and the copper ring is pretty corroded, but I dont know if that would cause my problem. While the diverter was off, I sanded down the ring, and lubed it up, then put it back on. Before I put the housing back together, I hit the power and could see the blades going around without problem. The filter housing is not leaking, but one time I cleaned the filter, and put tube o lube on the filter o ring, and it was awesome for about 1 minute, then lost prime. I tried to replicate that but it never got good again. The filter basket is brittle, but I dont think that could effect anything. I put plastic wrap around all fittings, and joints to try to stop any possible air leaks, but nothing made a difference. When the pump runs, a small flow comes into the pump, and if I turn the air release on the filter, it will dispel all air, then water comes out, but even with no air in the filter, the pump basket is only half full, and surging between prime and no prime.

I was looking for a low cost with relatively good flow rate (drain 4-5K gallons in a couple hrs). I just bought this unit that claimed UL but item I received was not marked. I dont like the idea of putting a non UL or ETL rated equipment in the water. I only use it 2X times a year I guess I could just a home depot one but they are 2X price for a much smaller unit.

Amazon.com They had a fake marking on the listing. Any one have a decent 1hp Ul rated model they would recommend?
thanks,

David

Greetings!

I'm troubleshooting my CircuPool Universal 40 SWG, and I'm trying to rule out the transformer as the issue. I called CircuPool, and they don't have the resistance specifications, nor do they sell a replacement. The Universal 40 is identical to many brands, such as Pureline, Blue Works, Calimar, etc. It's also identical to the Hayward, with a different LCD board layout. I suspect they're all made by the same company, Ningbo Electronics.

I found the transformer resistance spec on the Hayward AquaRite, which is 2.1-2.9 ohms. The resistance on my transformer is 5.X ohms on both pairs of wires (gray/purple and white/blue). The Hayward and CircuPool transformers look identical, and seem to cross many brands. Unfortunately, the label on mine is faded and I can't read the model number. I replaced both the PCB's (main/LCD), and get no power to the system. I put the old PCB back in, and while it powers up, it "freaks out" with lights blinking and the LCD giving a strange readout.

Any insight would be most appreciated.

Thanks!

I am trying to get my Hayward Heat Pump model HP21254T into Remote Operation Mode so I can control it with my OmniLogic system. This was working prior to this year, but I think some buttons were pressed on the Heat Pump which took it out of the remote operation mode.

I've been following page 13 of the troubleshooting guide found on Haywards website: https://hayward.com/media/akeneo_co...p_Troubleshooting_Guide__TSG_HTPMPa__c95b.pdf

I do not know how to set the Pool Thermostat to off (I can set the temperature to 61, but i'm not sure if this is "off"). I also am not sure how to set the Heat Pump to spa operation.

The manuals linked from my models website don’t appear to be accurate.

Any help would be appreciated

Yesterday I learned there are 2 different types of Mighty lube. A blue PTFE based lubricant and a red version which is silicone based.

What the difference functionally ?

What is the better product - for pool O rings ?

Or if they have their own place which product gets used where ?

Thanks

Anyone have experience with the Attendant or Attendant Mini?

I have simple setup but miss-matched equipment and this product looks awesome.

Thoughts?

Hello all,
I have the Raypak 8450TI-E. The heater is 6 years old. The issue I am experiencing is when the heater will automatically go into Comp. Start Delay when there is a heat demand. After 5 min the compressor will attempt to start for 2-3 seconds the go back to Comp. Start Delay. I changed the capacitor yesterday and no luck.
This issues started 2 days ago when I saw a high pressure prompt and now it continuously goes into Comp. Start Delay. Any trouble shooting advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Derek

I just bought a 2nd home which has a Pentair Easytouch PL4/PSL4 setup. I currently am a longtime Hayward person, so I am very familiar with their systems, but new to Pentair. The pool has a spa. There antenna mounted outside, however all the interior equipment is missing. I need to know what I need to control the spa, and control pool functions. I am looking for very minimal control, just enough to turn things on and off, even if just the spa.

My understanding is I need a new outdoor antenna that is matched with a indoor wireless receiver. That will allow me to use the app. I may or may not also need a protocol adapter? Can someone confirm if I need the protocol adapter or not? 502500 I believe is the model number? I imagine it is cheaper to use a phone app than purchase some type of remote? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I found a used screentouch remote and antenna locally. I am just wondering if I can plug the indoor wireless receiver directly into my router, or will I need to get the protocol adapter as well. Just looking for the cheapest solution to turn things on and off. Pics attached for reference of existing setup. Thanks

James

Hi all,

My pentair intellicenter app stopped connecting to my intellicenter panel. I went out to the panel to reconnect my wifi. The intellicenter panel will not connect to the wifi device. When trying to find a network it just keeps spinning and won't come up with any networks to connect to. I have rebooted and reset the panel. I checked my router and it's working fine. I have a guest network also that is only set on 2.4 ghz but the panel cannot connect to anything. It's like the wifi device it uses to connect to my wifi stopped working. Any advice?

I'm about to install the 4th main circuit board in my Omnilogic control that was installed in 2014, which is expensive and really annoying. I've decided that maybe power surges are at least partly to blame for why my circuit boards go bad after just 2 or 3 years. So I've been reading on TFP about surge protection devices. My home already has them at the main house panel, so all I want to do is add surge protection at my Omnilogic sub panel. The Omnilogic uses a Siemens sub panel.

The Boltshield (on Amazon, SIEMENS BOLTSHIELD Plug-in Surge Protection Device 2-Pole 65kA 120/240V, 1Ø, 3W) sounds good because I like the idea of installing it directly on the bus bar. Today I physically moved the 4 breakers I have so that there is room for 1 or 2 Boltshield SPDs right above the electrical feeds, which connect to the bottom of the bus bar.

Here's my question: The Boltshield just has one wire. I may be reading some things wrong (quite possible), but it seems like the wire on the Boltshield could be connected to either the neutral bar, or to the ground bar (not both). I know it is wrong (and dangerous) to connect neutral and ground in a sub panel (they should only be connected at the main house panel). But for the best surge protection, should I connect the Boltshield wire to the neutral bar or the ground bar? And, should I get 2 Boltshields and connect one to the neutral bar and the other to the ground bar?

It seems like I'd want to protect against Line - Line, Line - Neutral, and Line - Ground surges. Can one Boltshield protect against all 3? Do I really want to send surge amps back along the neutral through the house to the main panel 200' away? I'm not really even sure if the Boltshield's wire should be connected to the sub panel's ground bar - it just seems logical.

If it only makes sense to have one Boltshield, is it better to connect it to neutral or ground and why?

Including a picture of my control panel. It's a rat's nest but it works well when it works.

I'm getting the no flow signal on my Jandy Aquapure model "APUREM". The sensor indicator module is flashing green for sensor flow.

The sensor was replaced at the end of last season when it was doing the same thing.

Filters are clean, pump is running at 2700rpm.

Getting more than frustrated with this. Is it another bad sensor?

I'm probably going to need to replace the single speed pump I have. How would I go about figuring out what I would need for a replacement.

My specs are:

• Inground 17K gal, outdoor uncaged crystalcrete (yr 2002)
• 1 1/2 HP pump Hayward Super II pump
• Hayward 1750C cartridge filter
• Hayward SwimPure SWG
• No autocleaning --- Southwest Florida so it runs all year

The cartridge filter and SWG are still working fine. I plan on talking to a few local pool service companies but want to have a little more info when I talk with them.

I was at a pool store and got a general quote for around $2K installed (setup, pvc switch, power hookup, etc.)

Hey all, we just had our pool finished last week and are thrilled. We have three kids under 5 so opted for an automatic cover. During the build process the contractor mentioned the great thing about the cover is closing it up often for the kids safety, keeping it clean, pool chemistry, heat it easily, etc. When the service company came out to do our pool school, he mentioned to be careful with the cover, that if it’s closed and the chlorinator keeps running where it’s normally set, there’s nowhere for the chlorine to go and it will get to a “dangerous” level to swim in. He said to cut down or off the chlorinator if closing the cover. Just wanted to see if anyone here has more guidance on that and if it’s something we should be doing/concerned about? Thanks so much!

I finally got my SWG up and running now battling what percent to set it to. I know with an autocover, the percent should be set lower. So seeing if anyone has a good gameplan that works for them. Thanks!

Hello;

I'm a new pool owner and pool construction was completed very late in the season last year. I just opened the pool this morning and things actually look pretty good. Needed to add some water so i was running pump on main drain to get the water moving through the filter and vacuumed and brushed all day. Started testing the water this evening; needless to say there is no chlorine in there so i'll start adding liquid tomorrow until water is warm enough for SWG.

Here are some of my test results:
TA - 120
Cl - 0
Ph - over 10
Calcium Hardness - 300

When i plug into pool math, i'm told to lower Ph with Muriatic Acid to also lower TA. My question is how much muriatic acid should i add at one time; I assume pump should be running and test until i get Ph down to 7-7.2?

Thanks very much for any advice you can offer. Hopefully my details/equipment is showing in my signature, but let me know if any questions.

Tony

Hi! I'm in suburban Detroit and just got a hot tub (Jacuzzi J225). I've had a hot tub before and I can do math, but I have some questions. So here I am!