I chased down the leak in my hot tub. There is a crack at the bottom. I found it when I drained it and water started coming back in through the crack. See pic. My plan is to use hydraulic cement to seal it, but I'm not sure if I should chip out the pebble first to expose the shell or just put the cement as is. Any insight appreciated.

Hi guys,

My pressure gauge is oscillating on my filter. Also the check valve is rattling on the in-line chlorinator rainbow 320, I opened it up with the clorinator off and pump running... I could see air bubbles coming up in the water inside the chlorinator.

There is a micro drip leak at the T point after the chlorinator ( two drops of water in 3 hours I tested twice with a parchment paper under it)

But from what I've read, leaks after the filter should only cause water leak not air.
It seems there is air in the filter somehow. After backwash and rinse the gauge stabalizes for a couple hours and then air builds up and makes it oscillate (tested this twice). I took off the pressure gauge to re-seal with teflon and when I removed it there a blast of air that comes out with it.

It has not had any adverse effects on the pool, no air bubbles I can see. I think the air is just having a good time inside the filter and chlorinator.

I plan on replumbing the leaking T this weekend. But I'm concerned it maybe something else. Pool pump basket is full/ no air bubbles in there. Problem seems to start at filter. What do you guys advise I check?

Thank you.

Soooooo aggravating! My Jandy Aqualink "ghost" is back. This time it is worse. I am finding my light on a LOT. I also am finding the heater on. I keep the gas off though when not in use. And now, new for this season, the pump turned itself off.

I believe this weekend I will reseat every single connector in the system. If that doesn't work, I guess it is time for a new main board.

I think I will also start using the "All Off Time" feature. That at least will act as a reset.

Hi,

We recently purchased our home and it came with an above ground pool. I know that it wasn't used in the 2024 season, prior to that I am not sure. The pump was left out, but everything was disconnected.

It is a Hayward Power-Flo Matrix 1.0 HP. Do I need to do anything to it before plugging it in? I know this is probably a stupid question, I just don't want to tear something up from lack of not asking.

Thank you!

I hope it's okay to post this here!

I love my TF-PRO Test Kit and rely on it to keep our pool in great condition but I have added some items to make the kit a little easier for me to use!

I now have 3 graduated cylinders and 3 magnetic cross-shaped magnetic stirrers so each of the 3 tests, (Chlorine, Calcium Hardness, and Total Alkalinity) each get their own!

The dimensions of my 3D print are the same as the foam insert, except I only made it 35mm tall.

If you have a 3D printer and want to print it, you can go here!



If you print it and like it, please leave a reply and consider boosting my print!

It’s actually printed with PLA matte black but looks a little bit blue in the photos.

Thanks for looking!

So I've winterized my pool fine for many years. I generally leave a 1/2 to 3/4 full bottle of antifreeze in the skimmer and it's always fine. Last fall I was unexcusable in a huge hurry and didn't get to the closing until late October. Screwed up and didn't leave enough antifreeze in the bottle and it floated after a ton of rain. Had the skimmer under the cover and blah blah blah. I fouled up.

So now the wall to bottom of skimmer junction is cracked about half way around. I know the proper fix is to jack hammer it all out replace and redo the concrete. Obviously I don't want to do that, at least to start.

Is there and epoxy that would possibly work in this case? The crack is on the 90° so it seems like I could fillet in enough epoxy to work? Then cover it it with flex tape. It's no pressure so it seems it should, doesn't hurt to try I guess. Any repair techs had success? Any other ideas other than the jack hammer?

Greetings. I'm in the process of getting a warranty replacement on my 2x Color Globrites located on my Pentiar Bubbler Niches for Globrites. This is my Niche:


I had the old version [2021] of Globrites and will be replacing with the newer ones.

Question: when I look at the pictures of the New ones vs. the Old ones, they seem to be missing the "Lock Feature" located near the bottom where the cord comes into the light [where I circled].



Here is the best picture of the Newer Globrite; and I don't see a "Locking Feature" on these...


Anybody have any experience with this? Also, I know the fitment has to be tight in order to keep the Bubbler Water from Backing Up on the Electrical Conduit and Onto the Pool Equipment. Thank you, Shannon

Hey guys/girls!
Well, I’m a pool manager for a resort. I have 3 pool cleaners and the rest is up to me. I have 5 salt pools ranging from 120K gallons to 40K gallons. 2 of them are heated and 1 has a slide. I have 6 spas with all having 3-4 jets. Also, two splash pads with all kinds of cannons etc. I’m responsible for all repairs, preventive maintenance, balancing, and cursing out equipment occasionally. All equipment runs 24/7 besides the splash pads and all on sand filters. When winter ends, water temp rises, and when the people stampede its superrrrr funnnnn. All in all I enjoy my job and it isn’t actually that bad as I made it sound. Any questions or to say hey, let me know!

I have a Hydropool hot tub that I've owned for about 10-15 years. It runs just fine until I run the pumps (there are two separate pump motors) at a higher speed and then switch them off from the hot tub control panel. It will then trip the GCFI breaker.

The breaker I've had installed for years was a 60 amp GFCI. Someone suggested I replace the breaker. As a result of upgrading our pool, we had to do some additional wiring and ended up replacing the breaker for the hot tub to a new 60amp GCFI. The issue with tripping the breaker continues.

I'm having trouble understanding why the hot tub will run continously with both pumps on high but will trip the breaker when turning the pumps off. Could this be an issue with the motor(s)?

My salt cell has stopped working and I’m researching to buy a new one. I currently have a 15 but I’m seeing the 9 is a little cheaper and it will service pools up to 25,000 gallons. My pool is roughly speaking a 20,000. So I’m confused why the builder would use the 15 to begin with. Anyways can anyone assure me that the 9 will work? I’m thinking it should be fine but I’m not an expert on this stuff. Thanks!

Help! I have a very old (20+ years) A&A (now Pentair) in-floor cleaning system with 32 pop ups that has gone astray Actually, the upper dome of the water valve assembly blew up and cracked the PVC pipe. (I assume due to a intense pressure). I got replacement parts via the lifetime warranty that A&A provided as I am the orignal owner. And as I started replacing the pipes and reassembling the T-valve housing, I realized that the instruction page that comes with the replacement kit isn't very clear - especially with regards to the 2" replacement parts that apparently uses T-valves instead of plastic balls. Long story short - decided I need expert help. But unfortuantely no so-called swimming pool professionals in my area know much about the A&A infloor system - which is unbelivable because everyone has a pool in So. Cal. I've called about half a dozen pool guys and none of them know much more than how to clean pools. Is there someone out there that can get me to a guy who actually knows how to assemble/repair an in-floor system?

Does anyone have a (larger) bucket/container recommendation for mixing CC with their pool water (per instructions) as the reaction exothermic and i definitely felt like the container I used definitely warp/ possibly slightly melt the first time I did it…

Does anyone have pictures of NPT earthtone brick waterline tile installed? We like that it is a different size than normal 2x4 but we can not find any photo's of it installed

We just moved into a house and have a inground fiberglass pool that is roughly 20,000 gallons. I just opened it and shocked it and it's looking good. I just came across this website/app and ordered the pro test kit. I have been running through all the information on here but couldn't find anything about in-line or floating chlorinator. My pool does not have an inline set up and when I opened it it had a floating chlorinator in it. Was that just for the winter or do I need it during the summer? Or do I just test regularly and add to the pool as needed. Thanks in advance for any advice. I am looking forward to diving in deeper and learning more.

Hi! Can someone give me the overview on partnership with Marina? I need to buy a replacement power supply from them and I thought I remembered a discount code if I support TFP. Is it a certain discount for certain support levels here? Thanks! I also just ordered a pro testing kit yesterday so maybe I blew it and should have sponsored first for a discount on that item too?

I have push notifications and text notifications enabled in the app and on my iPhone. Notifications will show in the app but will not send me a push notification or text alert about them. I try to run my pump at low speed and as pressure build I would like to know if I get no flow. Running the new IntellaCenter. Thanks!

I have an i ground pool that I am unable to take care of. I cannot afford a pool person. It is currently been about 3 months since I have been able to use my robotic cleaner. The water is way down and green and I am thinking of draining it since it is rarely used the last couple of years. I don't know if that's the right thing or how to do it. Any suggestions on cost or alternatives?

Hi folks, after staring at a brand new pool that was installed last December, I can't wait any longer. Really appreciate the guidance in pool school, the wiki, and commentary on the forums - have learned a ton over the offseason.

I'm starting from a dirty, stinky, cloudy pool as the concrete guys did not recommend a cover over winter due to the green concrete and the weather was too cold to run the equipment at the time of install.

Here's my plan:

1) Run pump 24/7 to start filtering water, bypass heater
2) Vacuum pool
3) Add stabilizer to get CYA to 30
4) Dump salt targeting 3600ppm (for later.. SWG is off.. taking advantage of stirring water up during cleaning to help dissolve)

Wait a day

5) Full water test, adjust pH to 7.6
6) Follow SLAM process per guide
7) Finish SLAM, full water test
8) Add stabilizer to get CYA to 70
9) Start SWG
10) Continue water tests per pool school guide to dial in SWG/pump speed/pump run time settings

Any recommended modifications to this plan?

Before:



Thanks!

I’ve searched, but I can’t seem to find my exact issue, it seems like most of the time the spring and brass part that screw onto the clamp are the issue, but I can screw them off no problem and I can screw them back on no problem and they hold. This is my first time trying to remove the clamp from the filter housing this year and with the nut off the clamp it’s still locked in position. I’ve tried to wiggle it. I’ve tried to shake the top. I’ve sprayed silicone all around it, I can’t get it to move. Any thoughts? I even turned the pump on briefly with the gauge up top open to see if a little bit of pressure would make it move, it didn’t. Thank you in advance!

I'm a true newbie. Never had a pool before. Late last year we purchased a 16' Coleman pool. We are getting ready to set it up this year. Always heard that the filter they come with are not so good. We order a intex SX2800 sand filter. Wife wanted to go straight to salt so ordered the Intex QS1200 salt water generator. Will be getting the ground set up this weekend to get the pool up and filled. Ordered all my chemicals to get it established chlorine 1st then roll into the salt once the PH is set and the other leaves are good.
So with all that being said.
1. Being the Colman pool with the Intex filter system, will the connections be the same or will I need some adapters?
2. Is it worth to set up a PVC line vs the hose? If so dose anyone have an idea of what I would need to get to make everything work well together?

I just emptied and drained my Polishscapes/Hydrazzo pool. We repolished it to remove some mottling.(3 years old) What is the best way to add in the chemicals for startup being that this is not a new build and the plaster has already cured. Does it matter how fast I add in what is needed and in what order? Also when should I add chlorine/salt.

Thanks!

Looking for ideas on how to prevent my DIY aerator from tipping over while it's running. I stole this picture from another thread, but mine looks identical. How do I keep this thing vertical? It's connected to a sump pump sitting on the floor of the pool. Ideally, I'd like to angle my streams so they shoot more horizontal to cover more surface area. Once I do that, it will be even more unstable. Ideas?

New dude, I just did the same thing.



The winterizing rubber plug got sucked into the pipe nearest the filter pump because this year I didn't take the gizmos off first. The pipe has a 90 degree bend right at the end so I can't see down it. You say a shop vac sucked it out? There was enough pressure to get it out? Any advice?? Help!! Do I leave the gizmos in while trying to shop vac it out?

When we bought this house a few years ago, we knew the pump was older and may need to be replaced at some point.

While it probably hasn't been operating at optimal performance, it's still pushed out enough water through the jets to circulate water through the filter.

This Spring we've had crazy amounts of debris falling from the trees (not sure what they're called but look like little green worms). It has constantly filled my skimmer basket the last month or so and I've had to empty it regularly.

I noticed the other day a big slow down in pressure coming out of the jets. So slow in fact that the water looks almost still, whereas normally the water has movement to it.

I thought it might be that the debris from the trees has clogged the filter so I hired a pool company today to come out and completely clean the filter. That definitely increased the pressure a little bit, but the pool is still much calmer that it normally is with the jets on.

It made me think a jet was clogged but the pool guy seemed to think it was the pump. After cleaning the filter, the psi above the DE filter reads as almost 0 PSI.

As far as I can tell nothing is clogged. Skimmer is clear. Pump basket is clear.

Pump is a Century Centurion, Serial 10421CH. It's a 1.65 HP.

Does this sound like a pump problem or could it be that something else is clogged?

Thanks so much!
Chris

So over the winter I had a large crack show up in my Stonescapes mini pebble finish. They came out last week and cut out a section and patched it, matching the existing finish (of course the color will not match but that is ok). The patched area is pretty small in the grand scheme of things, about 3 feet long and 6" wide. After the patch was done we did a simple pool wash (instead of full blown acid wash) for the pool and then I refilled the pool.

My questions are around startup and pool chemistry. When I originally started up the pool when the pool finish was brand new. I followed the NPC startup procedures and then after that first month, I have maintained my pool according to Pool Math/Trouble Free Pool recommendations for a SWG pool. For a patch so small I am wondering if I should follow the full blown NPC startup procedure or not. So far all I have done is put the TA to about 60 and the pH is down to about 7.6. I haven't added chlorine to the pool nor CYA or calcium hardener. I've read differing opinions on salt during plaster startup so I'm probably not going to use the SWG for the first 30 days so will be maintaining with liquid chlorine during that time.

Note there is almost no plaster dust since the patched area is so small. So concerns around plaster dust with a heater or SWG aren't a concern with this startup.

Questions:
1) NPC startup recommends not using chlorine for 48 hours. I guess I can do that.
2) NPC recommends adjusting calcium levels after the 4th day. I'm at about 125ppm without touching it and NPC recommends not going above 200. Should I truly wait 4 days and then not go very high? Last year I kept calcium at about 250, but want to try higher numbers this year based on some issues I had last year. Was going to try to be between 300 and 350 this year. Will that have any affect on the curing of the new patched curing?
3) NPC also recommends not adjusting CYA until after the 4th day as well. Without CYA, any chlorine I add is going to get eaten up pretty quick. Right now my CYA is way less than 30, possibly near 0. Is there any real reason to wait on adding CYA to the pool?

Any other tips? Just trying to figure out the line between getting my water chemistry completely balanced vs what the plaster needs in this first week and first 30 days, keeping in mind it is only a patch...if that matters.

Hey all, I’ve got a Pentair recessed light in the pool/house we just bought. It had some water in it, but the socket wasn’t bad, no real corrosion. So I bought a new seal, and have tried repeatedly to get the tension ring to fully seal, and no matter what I do, thing never stops leaking. Can anyone assist? What am I missing? It’s not a large leak. Thanks!

Starting the process of opening the pool now it's warming up.

11.6k gallon gunite rectangle pool.

Followed TFP levels and charts, looks like I should get my TA down but have read other threads that say just keep your Ph in check and TA will sort itself out.

Anyways these are my results, what does everyone think?

CYA was added yesterday but I might have overshot/tested too soon...

Last year my solar cover basically disintegrated, and couldn't figure out why, maybe the higher FC? Got a replacement just don't want it to happen again.

Jandy TruClear SWG 8am-4pm 7 days a week at 1750rpm and set to 10% output.

Only other issue I fought last year was constantly rising Ph, but seems that's just how it goes with SWG.

Thanks all!

I am tired of getting different results from Pinch a Penny and Lesley stores along with different recommendations and would like to purchase the best test kit for my 10,500 gallon pool in South Fla. Obviously between the sun and rain - weather plays a significant factor in maintaining proper levels even though we only use the pool in the summer. I have researched test kits and can not decide between these two options: (1) Taylor K2006c (so I have more reagents) plus Taylor-1766 (salt test) and Taylor 9265 stirrer or (2) TF-Pro Salt. Please advise as to which option and why. By the way is the stirrer in TF Prosalt the same as Taylor 9265?

I have a Hayward Swim Pure Plus SWG that indicates the salt level which has been consistent with the store readings so I was also wondering if I still need a kit to test the salt level.

Thanks for your help!

Looking for a TSP alternative. I live up in Frisco (Dallas suburb), where we are packed together.
So I dont have a way to dispose of it without it hurting my neighbors grass (I have turf, thinking of run off), or pouring it out in the street and leaving a clean run off clearly showing I dumped something in the street lol.

I found some articles talking about Simple Green, but those are scented.
Cascade Platinum? OxyClean? Anyone used these?