I've had my Dolphin Active 30 for about 2.5 years (purchased from Marina). It has been a great pool cleaner up until it stopped working completely. I checked the impeller and that was completely clear of obstructions.

When I press the power button on the power supply, it he power ring and the Bluetooth/Wi-Fi light both flash blue and turn off immediately. That's it. Would love to know what steps I could take to figure out what the issue is.

I’ve been open for a week now and water temp with heater got up to 75-80. I usually just use liquid chlorine first couple of weeks because outside temps are in 70s but we had 2 mid 80s so kids wanted to hit the water. With that I decided to start up SWCG. Since FC already 5-6 with liquid I kept SWCG in 25% range for last 2 days.

Now the confusing thing is the difference between SWCG screen is more than the usually 300-400 between my liquid test. For instance screen keeps reading 3000-3100 while k-1766 with new reagent is reading 2400. Am I too far off? Should I just ignore panel and follow my tested result? SWG was inspected before my opening and completely clear as I usually am and it’s only 4 years old this year.

I tend to over think some of these things but just wanted to get some thoughts.

I started the slam process yesterday bcs the pool was turning a little green and recently have noticed some yellowish stuff on the walls and corners that easily brushes off.

Some background. I’m in central Texas and we just went through our yearly pollen bloom where literally everything outdoors is covered in a fine yellow powder. Keeping the pool clean and debris free is a daily challenge around this time of year. I have to clean out fully packed skimmers (tree pollen debris) twice a day for a couple of weeks. Glad we are past that now!

Also this pool is severely affected by ASR. This is likely our last season with it. We have cracks everywhere, hot tub hasn’t been able to hold water for two years. Just trying to keep the pool going for at least one more summer for my kids.

I’m following the SLAM protocol page. Removed debris. Brushed everything. Etc.

When I started yesterday:
Chorine was 0.
CC was also 0.
pH 7.5
CYA 50.

Per the calculator sLAM level for chlorine was 20.

Put in chlorine and it resulted in chlorine level of 32. Kept it above 20 all day (only had to add once). And had no chlorine loss overnight.

Water was cloudy and could still see a little yellow in a couple of spots this morning. Brushed it. Vacuumed some new tree debris off the bottom and ran the robot vac.

But now there is a fine debris all over the bottom of the pool. Kind of powder like but you can’t feel it. It’s kind of a tan color. I assume this is dead algae? When we brushed this morning it stirred up and made the water cloudier.

My pool vac (robot) does NOT pick this up. We can see evidence of this stuff in the pool skimmer socks. My biggest question is how to get this out of my pool? Am I expecting all of this to go through the filter?

Interested in this Confer Curve step system, including the add-on. Does anyone know if it will work in the short end of my pool? I'm worried that the curve of the oval will keep it from being flat against the wall. Any experience with this? Thanks!

Hi everyone. First time posting to TFP but I’ve learned a ton from the forums, so first, a thanks to all the participants. Second, I’m not sure if I should be starting my own thread or tagging SlipperyPete’s. I have a very similar issue with my MasterTemp 400 but let me know if I should move to my own thread.

My heater goes through the ignition cycle, blower starts and igniter clicks (three cycles) with gas smell, but no ignition. Service heater light comes on but no error LEDs under the control board light up. I’ve torn the heater apart a few times in the past (and now wish I’d just replaced it) to swap the heat exchanger pot last year and this month swapped the heat exchanger and control board. I’ve got so much sunk cost in the repairs now it makes no sense to replace, but I’m at a loss for the current issue. I’ve replaced the igniter and tested the replacement at 130 ohms at ~78 degrees. I’ve read conflicting posts about whether that means Amazon sent me a bad igniter, but I got one ignition yesterday only to repeat the backfire (?) process that had me calling the pool man. The pool man had me replacing the heat exchanger due to a slow crack/leak that he blamed for the ignition issue ($1,000 later, I think he was wrong). I’m at a loss at this point. I will say, when I took apart the heat exchanger pot the flame holder (the cylindrical piece not the cone) was in rusty/rough shape from the previous water in the pot. Before I replace that simply due to rust and drop another $200 into this guy, I thought I’d post here for any other advice. Thanks again all.

Enjoy as I briefly share my concrete pond return to a beautiful pool by following the guidance of TFP. (I'm not even one of the experts here, and I was just blessed to inherit this pool at the end of last summer (no it did not look like this then, but it was not sparkling either). Thankfully, I found TFP quickly in my search then and have been grateful for all the awesome folks and material here. Yes, it can feel a bit overwhelming at first, and yes, this will be my first battle with a swamp... but I'm confident this will end in my favor - so if you're new and feeling unsure, feel free to follow this little thread--it's meant to boost confidence, encourage, and demonstrate what goes on here at TFP! If I mess up at some point, you'll see me shoot up a flare and call in support, and you'll see great folks virtually jump into the muck with me.

With the right knowledge and some diligence, this pool will be opened and sparkling without all the craziness and costs of excess chemicals, trips to the pool store, or even pool service. Oh yes, there will be a good bit of regular old liquid chlorine...bottles and bottles of it. But that's pennies on the dollar compared to the endless cycle I could end up with if not following the principles here. The real challenge and enemy will be time - I was unfortunately unable to begin this Friday afternoon or Saturday morning. So I'm stuck with this one day before the weekly grind returns. Challenge accepted.

Here are my initial pics (a valiant effort will be made to transport all creatures big or small to a habitat of their choice):

I know this thread is a year old but I have the same problem but I don't have an Intelliflo pump. How do I know whether the com port is good? I'll replace the antenna set if necessary but I'd hate to do that and then have to replace the main board too.

Sorry - this was originally in another thread. So, I have no lights on the receiving antenna and no Intelliflo pump. Do you think this is a com port or an antenna problem and how do I check?

Long story short. Cover had a hole in it so we didn’t cover this winter because they couldn’t get us a cover made in time. Should I drain and refill or slam. I’m thinking slam but curious what yall think

Hi Expert,

I have a Jandy PLC1400 purchased in May 2023(1 year and 11month old). I found it recently stopped producing chlorine as I have it run at 100% overnight for 12 hours and no change in the FC level.

I wanted to confirm if it is really the cell is bad or other things. Since my last one lasted more than 6 years before it threw error 120/121, this is less than 2 years old and there is no error code which confused me.

I did an acid wash, but did not see any effect. The plates looks clean and there is no noticeable corrosion.

One thing to mention is 3 days ago, because the cell is not working, there was significant amount of algae growing and I had to add two gallon of liquid chorine to shock the pool. Now the water is clear and FC dropped to 0.5, but the SWG was not able to raise it.

The PH is 7.5 and Salt level is around 3000ppm.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Hello, my pool is only 4 years old and my pentair intelliconnect controller died. My pool only has a single speed pump and a booster pump for the pool sweep. The intelliconnect allowed me to run the equipment with the app on my phone, but to be honest I only used the app to turn off everything when I would do the weekly maintenance. I had all the equipment set to a timer. My question is should I replace it with another intelliconnect or just use one of those old fashioned mechanical timer, that will last for years? Also is there a timer that will turn on the pump and the booster separately?

I have had a pool since 2006 in southwest Georgia. I am a believer and have used the methods described in this forum to solve any problems I have had with water chemistry balance. However, this one has got me stumped as well as many of the pool service companies in my area. I have never had such a problem as I do now.

My pool is in-ground, capacity 25000 gals, vinyl liner (replaced in 2017) with a salt water chlorination system. My present water chemistry is PH 7.6, Chlorine 21.0, Alkalinity 110, Cyanuric acid 95 and salt level 2700. Prior to my problem and just opening the pool in the spring the water chemistry was PH 7.4, Chlorine 0.0, Alkalinity 80, Cyanuric acid 80 and salt 2600. I have several river birch trees around my pool which always have produced a lot of debris plus seeds in the spring that cause me to empty the skimmer basket and polaris frequently in the spring.

The present chlorine level is high right now due to increasing dosage of bleach to get rid of what I thought was an algae problem. It has remained high because I increased the salt system to an output of 80%.

Right now my pool is green (picture attached). I looks like algae but I do not have any algae dust on the bottom of the pool when I brush it. My water feed is from a well. The pool service people think that I have a metal problem. I have added their metal out chemicals (2 quarts) and ran the pump system overnight but I do not see an improvement this morning. I do not know how to test for metals.

What I do know, is that I have had this pool since 2006, have always used my water from the same well and I have previously never had a problem that I could not fix using borax, bleach and acid. Any help would certainly be appreciated.

Sincerely, Jim Kempf

We have another issue with our Edge 25, this time it’s looking like the control module. If I had to guess, the cheap plastic on the control module housing has cracked in multiple spots and we got wild rain a couple days ago. I bet it leaked in and is causing the issues we are seeing.

I’m waiting on a call back from Circupool to confirm, but if that is the case, we will be eyeballing switching to another brand.

What are some alternates people have had good experiences with?

Always wanted a pool since I was a child. So far, I’d rather clean the pool than my house … looking forward to learning how to maintain it.

My house's pool in NorCal has a pool that gets a ton of shade from a row of about 6 redwoods that line the southern edge of property. It really shortens the swimming season and I've been trying to figure out how to extend it without having to run my gas heater so much ($$$). I was told adding a heat pump might be a good solution especially if I solar panels/battery to the home which gets great sun as its beyond the reach of the redwood's shade. The temps still drop down into the 40's and 50's some nights, especially in the shoulder months, so I'm trying to figure out if the heat pump running only during sunlight hours is going to be enough to get my temps up to swim by midday. I'm open to other ideas as well, to improve the economics such as solar panels for the pool itself by building a pool shed over the existing equipment (not sure I'd have space to put it otherwise). I already have an automatic pool cover.

Hi
I am re-plumbing my equipment for a large 20 year old Gunite pool to accomplish a few related goals.
1. Replace old Propane Heater with Heat Pump (Propane is very expensive to use and not exactly environmentally friendly to heat a pool).
2. Move equipment around so that I can use the space that equipment is currently at for a small pool house/equipment shed/control center.

I am planning to place my DE Filter, Pump, Valve and Salt Cell in the back corner of this new structure that drill through the walls and dig a trench to the heat pump 8' away where there is more space for it.

In the end I will end up with longer plumbing runs to get to and from the heater and to get to the main return line from the pool. I tried attaching photos but even after resizing they are too big. I will get them on there as some point.

Generally I like to try and use supplies I can get locally so that if I am short one fitting or something goes wrong and I need a fitting I can just get one without waiting for shipping. Home Depot and all others locally do not have pressure rated fittings greater than 2'' PVC and no 2.5'' PVC 10 foot segments. If I want to go bigger to reduce the total system pressure head, it seems like I need to get 3 inch Schedule 40 pipe locally and then order all the fittings such as these. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-406-030-3-PVC-Sch-40-90-Elbow.
My question is this worth it? The new heat pump heater has 1.5'' inlet and outlet, my salt cell has 2'' threaded connections. So I will end up reducing the 3'' down to 1.5 to go into and out of the heater and then I have to reduce to 2'' for my salt cell and check valve (to avoid backflow of highly chlorinated water into the heater when the pump is shut off). I will of course have a bypass for the heater so that when I am opening, closing and cleaning I can run the pump at full speed without the heater in the loop.

I need to decide quickly as I want to get this operational and it is a whole lot easier to just use 2'' Schedule 40 PVC throughout but I do not want to take the easy route and regret it later. I plan to live here a long time, and we use the pool as much as I can in our medium length season in southeastern Pennsylvania.

I have the TFP test kit and noticed the pool store also measured TDS and phosphate (he said both were ok and the water was in good shape). Numbers were
pH 7.6
FC 5 (I just replaced my SWG and am in the process of titrating the chlorine production %, he said this should be between 0.7 and 3)
TA 90
CYA 70
Phosphate 250? (can't recall exactly but it was the 2nd lowest of the 4 color blocks)
TDS (don't know the number but he said it was fine)

When I've measured calcium hardness it's been 975 or so and draining the pool was recommended here. He said that he wouldn't with a TDS number coming back as normal. What are your thoughts about this? Thanks!

Pool guy is out of town for 10 days, I'd rather prevent too much water loss here. My initial thought is that I'll need to tighten this connection, but obviously I can't because the PVC is glued. So I'm guessing I cut it just behind the glued joint, screw in a new connector, and use a a coupler to put a new line of PVC in the middle portion. Is that correct or am I missing something?

I can't get the Youtube embed to work, here is a link to the setup.

We've a APCP-1700 that's about 1.5 years old now. Been through one summer down here in central Texas. Went out to clean the pool cover yesterday and came back in with pin and needles feeling all over my right hand. Checked with duct tape and yet, a bunch of fiberglass. Went back and checked everything I touch and the pump housing and handle has glistening in the sun. Checked it with tape to and it pretty much covered the tape.

I searched all around and didn't find any mention of this on Amazon, here or elsewhere on the web. Did I get one from a bad batch or maybe overlooked something about care or sun exposure?

Also - any recommendations for a cover pump? Honestly, really like how stable this one was except for this recent issue...

GM currently I have 2 of the gva 24 to control when I turn the unground spa on and off and was looking to purchase a 3rd to wire to on of the Aux controls on my Hayward on command. To turn the water fall feature on and off

I’ve looked in the internet and there seems to be another generic make out there called

TORK TPE24VA Valve Actuator Control, NSI 24v

Any suggestions ,

Will adding another Hayward work leveraging the AUX connection on the on command ?

Thanks
Pics below

1st post, so hi to everyone. Thanks for any input and advice. Now onto the issue...

16x42' fiberglass pool installed last summer. No issues. Several storms blew through the TN area recently and our 200# grill was blown by the wind approx 15' away, over pavers, onto the cover and dumped into the pool. Grill was removed and the cover was pulled back to inspect for damages. Water level was down and paver damage down both long sides (42') was observed. Initital thought was that the grill damaged/cracked the pool shell, water leaked down, earth pressure pushed in and sides bulged in. Now the pool wasn't empty but the level had dropped to about 2 inches below the jets. Pool installation company was notified and they said to add water back to the pool. They made 2 or 3 trips out to inspect. Insurance company was called, adjuster came, engineer came, leak detection company came. Still waiting on the full report. Leaks had apparently came from broken seals around jets, lights, etc... when the walls bulged, it caused this. Otherwise no leaks detected, no cracks or defects. I feel as though its going to turn into a finger pointing match between my homeowners insurance, the installers insurance and the pool manufacturers insurance companies. So any thoughts on what caused the bulge?

I've been told several possibilities. Still waiting on the engineers findings. I have my own opinions. I don't want to sway the comments but would to hear opinions on possible causes.

Plan is to remove the pavers, hand dig the gravel out and hopefully let the sides re expand and then put it all back. Hopefully better than it was so this doesn't happen again...but again, what caused it to begin with so that it doesn't reoccur?

As subject says. Any thoughts on dreame z1? It looks similar to the beatbot but better price.

I opened up my pool and the water was crystal clear. Recently the water has turned murky. I put in clarifier and ran the pump for over 48 hours. I used an automatic pool cleaner and was able to get some debris out, but still cloudy. Then I tried Shock and that doesn’t seem to help. I read on another site to use clarifier and don’t run the pool pump for 8 hours and then vacuum. I am
In the process of trying that. I have a salt water pool with a cartridge filter. Salt level is good, PH is good, and filter is clean. What am I missing and what should I try next?

Last winter, the wind managed to blow off the winter cover on my pool, dumping all the "tea" from the cover into the pool. We decided not to empty the pool because we had a particularly cold and long winter (for our region). I removed the cover and drained the pool finally and the mucky water has left a brown/yellow ring around the pool. Any suggestions for cleaning? Would a bleach or ammonia-based household chemical be damaging? I'm concerned about weakening the liner, but also about getting those chemicals completely out of the pool so they will not interfere with the water chemistry when i fill it up again.

This is an Intex liner, slightly faded from the sun after the 5 years it's been in service. I can take some pictures for you, but I think you can imagine the damage :-(

New liner is being ordered this week for my in ground pool. If anyone recalls, it split in the fall last year and we got a pool company onboard to change it now that the season is upon us. So, here's my question...

What brand of pool liner to get? We've been looking at Latham, Merlin, and Legacy (Imperial). Does it really matter what brand? Any tips for my first time liner replacement (I'm not installing it)?

As always, thank you for the advice!

Hi pleased to be a new member !! Looks like a great place for me to get good advice

I have a 10ft diameter Cowboy pool with Mastertemp 125. It’s coming up to 4 years old, and I’m starting to get HLS errors as the pool approaches 90deg, for the last couple of degrees. It does eventually get there.

I just replaced the pressure, and 3 sensors on the manifold. It’s better, but still giving HLS just before reaching set temperature of 90deg.

Any advice welcome …

Having doing my own testing from TFTestkits. When I start up my pool do I still need a opening kit from a pool store or do I just start testing and get my levels normalized? Hope that makes sense.

Hi all,

This morning, I realised that my IntelliFlo pump wasn't running. I checked the app for my IntelliConnect and saw the pump disabled. I enabled it and all good again.

Then I checked my notifications in the app and I see multiple errors, at this time all inactive:

Date Time Error
11/04/2025 20:03 IntelliFlo Disabled Mode
11/04/2025 19:58 IntelliFlo Communication Error
11/04/2025 05:41 IntelliFlo Communication Error
10/04/2025 00:00 IntelliFlo Communication Error
10/04/2025 12:39 IntelliFlo Communication Error
10/04/2025 03:15 IntelliFlo Communication Error
10/04/2025 00:14 IntelliFlo Communication Error
09/04/2025 22:20 IntelliFlo Communication Error
09/04/2025 21:07 IntelliFlo Communication Error
09/04/2025 17:26 IntelliFlo Communication Error
09/04/2025 14:31 IntelliFlo Communication Error
09/04/2025 08:18 IntelliFlo Communication Error
09/04/2025 01:54 IntelliFlo Communication Error
08/04/2025 20:04 IntelliFlo Disabled Mode
08/04/2025 19:59 IntelliFlo Communication Error
08/04/2025 16:01 IntelliFlo Communication Error
08/04/2025 01:11 IntelliFlo Communication Error
06/04/2025 14:37 IntelliFlo Communication Error
06/04/2025 06:45 IntelliFlo Communication Error

So I guess my pump went inactive yesterday evening.

I checked the cable between the pump and the Intelliconnect and it looks intact and well connected.

Any suggestions what I should do / check?

Thanks,
B.

Hello, had a 2HP Hayward Super Pump installed and there is an ooze coming from one of the connection points. Anyone know what this is, cause, and potential solution?

Just got a house that has a metal 24' AGP with standard returns. I've owned intex pool vacs and know they work great for this type of application so I bought another one. We'll they've redesigned the vac slightly. The hose is one piece and has proprietary fittings on each end (still about 1 1/4" hose). The original blue return fitting-to-hose adapter is now a pretty beefy grey 3". I am gonna flip this house and don't want to re-do all the PVC and was hoping someone knew of the 3" proprietary Intex return adapter to a standard 1.5" hayward style return. As it is I'm thinking I'm gonna have to epoxy something up but would prefer not to. Does anyone think a 1.5" male to barbed fitting would work?

I have an above ground pool that had all flexible piping, and I'm replacing with pvc. The guy that assembled our pool used a ton of silicone/caulk to seal all the fittings. When trying to remove the current fitting from the bottom of the skimmer basket, about 1/2" worth of the threaded portion broke off and is stuck on the threads inside the basket. I cannot budge it and I can't get any leverage on it whatsoever due to the flexible nature of the stainless steel panel/skimmer and the weird location of the broken piece.

Does anybody have any tips or things I could try to get this pieece out of here? I started to try to snip it and break it out in pieces, but I don't want to ruin the threads.

Picture attached.. Not the best view but this is from the top down, you can see the little piece stuck on the threads at the bottom.