Hi everyone,

I've decided to rebuild the pool, as i mentioned in other thread i had a crack and after fixing, it keep cracking more and it seems that the now removing the whole plaster and reinforcing cracks is the way to go. I've brought in a soil guy who did not recommend any specific soil analysis. I've also brought multiple pool builders and they did not think soil analysis was going to guide any of their work.

The pool has 45 years and the plaster was redone about 15 years ago (i bought the house about 2 years ago). Because of the old design, the deep end of the pool is 9 ft, while the shallow end is 3 ft. I've decided that shallowing the deep end to 6ft is a good idea as it will help to heat the pool.

When i asked about shallowing the deep end to the pool builder, and after looking at costs, he is suggesting that we build a pool inside the pool, this is so we future proof the pool from possible cracks. This will take off about 7 inches around the pool. The issue is that the number of cracks after removing the plaster is unknown, if we find more than the ones that we know off, we may end up with an expense that will bring us close to just building a pool inside a pool.

i'm not a big fan making the pool smaller and i cannot find any information about building a pool inside a pool. Is this a sound idea that will for prevent future cracks within the next 15 years with more certainty other than just finding and fixing existing cracks with gunite?

TLDR: My above ground pool is about 1/4 to 1/2 full, way below the pump, it is green water, and previously had algae sand like substance on the floor of the pool we couldn't get rid of. Should I completely drain my pool to do a more through cleaning?

I have a above ground pool that I accidentally drained the majority of the water out of. I left a pool pump inside of the pool to drain it partially (it had to much water in it) after unplugging it. I didn't realize, that even after unplugging the pool pump (there was no power going to it) water would still continue to be drained. It's about 1/4 to 1/2 half full now. Way below the skimmer where I have the pump.

Previously when the water was the proper level, there was a sand like substance inside of the pool settling on the floor, even with the pump on. We tried to vacuum it up, but it would turn into a dust cloud. After vacuuming up the whole pool, I would see a green particle like substance floating in the water. I jumped in at one point and attempted to touch it, to confirm it was algae instead of sand from the filter. I couldn't even get to it. As soon as I got close to it, it turned into a cloud. I'm pretty sure it was algae. We tried putting in some chemicals to shock the water to help get rid of it, but it didn't seem to help.

Now with my pool with about 1/4 to 1/2 full, the water has turned a nasty green. I'm debating if I should completely drain it, hop into the pool and attempt to clean the remaining algae residue in it? Whatever we were doing before to attempt to get rid of the algae clearly didn't work, so I'm thinking with it completely empty, I would have better luck at cleaning it off the liner. I'm not what chemical I should use to accomplish this, or if this even the right approach. I've read online that completely draining your pool could damage the liner, or debris could fall into it and damage it. But if I clean it out the same day I completely drain it, and then add in a few inches of fresh water, I should be fine?

Or is the approach of refilling the pool, so that way I can turn the pump back in, and putting some additional chemicals to get rid of the algae and make the water not green a better approach?

At this point, the season is almost over, and by the time we get it all cleaned out, it will be time to close it out for the year because it will be getting cold. So I'm not looking to use it this year, just take care of the algae so next year it will be in good enough shape to hopefully use.

Thanks for any help and advice!

my pool had algae a few weeks ago and they come and go with shocks. Recently I added 16 oz SeaKlear algae removal and prevention (copper sulfate pentahydrate). Next day I saw a lot black thing on the wall and bottom. Are they copper or black algae?

We recently had a pool installed and the installer did not do the electrical installation for liability reasons. The electrician wired up all of the equipment except for the Jandy iqpump 01 because he didn’t know how to do it and in his defense the manuals are very unclear in regards to our specific system. Here is what we have Jandy VS Flopro 1.85 Hp which comes with the speedset controller, Jandy TruClear SWG, and Jandy iqpump 01. Does anyone know how to wire this equipment together so they all 3 work together?

I am looking for advice on the best way to resolve a broken fitting.

As best as I can figure the prefab concrete slab for the pool equipment has settled (purchased house with pool 3 yrs ago. Pool is 11 yrs old). The connection for the chlorinator no longer aligns correctly (pic 1 & 4). The Chlorinator has been prone to leaking unless the fitting was extra tight. The over tightening of the nut has cracked the union (pic 2 & 3). When you disconnect the chlorinator and try to align the fittings you can see the offset (pic 4 & 5).

As you can imagine, the pool is offline. I am in Dallas and it now gets up over 100 during the day. With this heat it will not take long for the pool to go green. I really don't like working in this heat (I defer outdoor tasks to fall/winter/spring). I am hoping to do a quick fix now. Then make a better repair during the winter when I can leave the pool offline for an extended period of time and algae would not be a problem.

To fix the cracked union, I see two options: A) heat up the union with my heat gun and remove the union (I have seen youtube videos about this method, but am skeptical that it will not ruin the PVC pipe). Option B is to use a PVC reamer I purchased on Amazon to ream out the Jandy value that connects to the chlorinator. I have a replacement union and nut for the chlorinator.

Do I fix the alignment issue now, or in the fall? Will a new union and nut be leak free?

Option 1) Add shims to raise the canister and the pump, but this will most likely put stress on the pump (input connection).
Option 2) add shims to raise the canister and replumb the connection from the canister to the pump (pic 5 & 6)
Option 3) cut the pipe on the input side of the pump to see the the connection was under stress. Shim the pump if needed. Then do option 2

We just passed the 10th anniversary of the “Day the Earth Smiled” photo project. The photo shows the Earth as seen from the Cassini probe orbiting Saturn. Apparently, the day and time the photo was to be taken was publicly publicized in advance and they asked people to go outside, look up, and smile at that time.

We had our pool replastered about 3 months ago. We are in Lake Havasu City, Az and the water here is very hard. I test our water almost every day with the kit and use liquid chlorine along with muriatic acid. I input readings into Pool Math app. Pool constantly needs acid along with the chlorine. Is this just something with the new plaster, or a constant need? The app is telling me to add 45 oz of baking soda to raise total alkalinity. Doesn't this raise the pH as well? Im confused. I certainly dont want to mess up our plaster. Thanks in advance.

I have a Hayward T-15 that's about 8 months old. Check cell light came on for the 1st time, so we pulled it out to check it. On the side where the water enters the cell there was what looked to be a piece of paper sitting on top of the grid. It was hard and stuck to the grid. It only appears on the one side. I thought it might be scale, but acid doesn't dissolve it. It looks like it was some sort of paper that got caught. The hose isn't spraying it off. I spent as long as I could in the excessive heat trying to carefully remove it bit by bit with tweezers. I'm looking for any suggestions on something else I can use to try to get this removed.

Also, possibly related, the cell is reading a salt count of 2600-2800 ppm, but my Taylor kit is measuring 3400. I know discrepancies are common but I am concerned it's an issue with the cell. I've had to bump the output up much higher all of sudden and since it is my first season I have no baseline to determine if this normal. CYA has dropped again due to rainfall, so I am working to bring it back up.

The picture is of the substance I pulled off the cell that has been sitting in straight muriatic acid (31.45%) for about 3 hours now with not much change.

Hello everyone. The forum was so helpful at getting me through my pool opening and month-long SLAM. Now hopefully you all can keep me out of trouble with my DIY plan for replacing my pump and plumbing.

With replacement of a few parts, the setup I inherited has been working adequately, but:

• There must be air leaks I haven't found since the pump always has some air in it and fails to prime about once a week (after being off for 12 hours). A couple of times, it has run for a couple hours without a prime and has been boiling hot.
• All of the joints are coated in silicone, and it looks like someone welded in a bunch of threaded connectors that seem likely candidates for leaks.
• There is a water leak, losing a good inch a day, I think from the pump housing, where the ground is always wet. The pump seals are bad.
• A few days ago (not when hot), the single-speed pump motor became really loud, up multiple decibels. The motor is just a year or two old. I opened the housing and didn't find any damage.

So I'm thinking of replacing everything between the 3 underground poly pipes and the filter - VS pump, replace the extra piece of poly with PVC, replace the valves.

• I hope that welding all possible joints should help the air leak situation.
• I'd like to keep the valves which aren't in bad shape, but I think they're welded to impossibly short pieces of PVC.
• I could keep the pump housing, but it's old, would need to be resealed, and would limit pump motor options.
• I get $400 from the power company for an Energy Star pump.

Of course, I need to get the parts before the pump dies and get the installation done in a day. Any obvious pitfalls? Any changes you would make? Is it an issue that the pump is sitting on the ground? Any recommendations on the pump?

Thanks for any voices of experience.
John

Im a first time pool owner and would like to learn how to keep my pool balanced. I tried the pool store testing and the suggestions were very pricey. I want to be able to learn how to test the pool myself and how to fix it if the levels are off.

Hi folks, first time posting here. I just got the Taylor/Leslie’s K-2006 kit and tested my water. I shocked the pool last night and ran the pump all night. I tested the water today and FC is at 8ppm and CC is .5. I know the FC is high because of the shock, but from my understanding a CC of .5 is at the limit of what’s acceptable.

I tested using 10ml of water because I just shocked, so I multiplied the drops by .5. My water is crystal clear, so I’m not sure if I have an issue, or if I need to retest using 25ml of water to get a more accurate reading. Seems to me that my CC can actually be less than .5.

Would love to hear what you all think. Thanks.

Thought I'd ask here before I do something regrettable. A few years ago I turned a nasty pool shed into a nice, usable pool house. I custom built a "love seat" over the pump, but space was limited by the filter housing. There are 12' pipes running behind the pool house bathroom to the heater outside.

Question: if Iwant to relocate the filter to the outside next to the heater, so that I can add a seat and turn the love seat into a couch, can the pump remain where it is and be 12' away from the filter? I've only ever seen the pump directly next to the filter. My initial thought is it's fine, just a lot of work to redo the pipes and valves.

Fellow TFPer’s,
We have a Jandy ePump VSSHP270DV2A that was installed Sep 2022 by a Jandy authorized installer. It seems to be much louder than I remember post install and I think it’s happened gradually over time. It did happen suddenly once before and the cause was a dead lizard jammed in the cooling fan area. I figured at this point it was the same and honestly hadn’t noticed it until the neighbors said it seemed louder. I took off the cover for the cooling fan and all I could find was more debris than usual (recently completed landscape project where they brought in sand/soil to bring up elevation after a drainage project. I fear maybe they slung it around the fan and it was ingested since it seems to coincide with when the neighbors mentioned it. Cleaned it off but the sound remains…is this a normal sound for this pump? I have a pending warranty request with Jandy for someone to come take a look. Any ideas are much appreciated!
-One video is 1250 RPM (usually run low speed at 1750 to keep some skimming action….our yard is a perimeter of bamboo and the leaves are constant) and the other is 2750 RPM
-impeller is clear, we use skimming baskets with hair nets…the only thing I haven’t checked is the cartridges (been about 3 months since I’ve cleaned them but no rise in filter psi right now)

Login to view embedded media Login to view embedded media

Yesterday my pump lost prime and I had to add some water to the basket to get it going. Woke up to the same issue today, looks like the spa suction is fine but pool side wasn’t working. Removed the skimmer float valve and it started working again. Not 100% sure the issue here but still testing. Any advice welcome!

Main thing I wanted to ask is I found this part in our Spa as well. Anyone recognize this?

I followed the TFP recommendation and added a bypass valve for my heater when I was building my pool. In the summer, when I don't use my pool heater, I let the water bypass the heater. I am wondering if I should also drain my heater (in the summer) by removing its drain plug?

New pool (completed May 2023). So all equipment is 3ish months old.

Saw some white flakes coming out of the jets recently and figured the salt cell was dirty. We went out of town and my Father-In-Law who was caring for the pool turned off the Chlorinator (chlorine levels were HIGH). White flakes stopped.

We returned and Salt level kept dropping on the system (Instant Salt got as low as 980ppm). But two separate tests of the water showed it actual amount was holding around 3000ppm.

When we turned the chlorinator back on, the white flakes returned, which confirmed the salt cell needed cleaning. Followed all instructions and cleaned the cell using a muratic acid mixture (there was LOTS of build up).

Rehooked everything up and it's been running about 24 hours now. Instant Salt reading has bounced between 1200ppm - 2300ppm.

Salt Test Strip reading = 3040ppm
Leslie's Store Test = 2847ppm
Instant Salt (per system) = 1750ppm

What else could be causing the cell to give such faulty readings??

Attached is the diagnostics for the cell.

Hi All,

I found a used Goldline "spa side" remote and receiver (2008?) came from an AquaPlus controller ... will this operate my ProLogic box (2017)?

See photos, please.

Pool pumps did not run yesterday so I went to check out what it might be, finding the low voltage circuit breaker tripped for the relays.
Reset it and it tripped again.
Checked & tested breakers and found the Main Filter Pump breaker would not trip when I pushed the ground fault test button. So that is the 1st part I need.
Did not explain the low voltage issue.
Tried switching two of the low voltage circuit breakers to see if it was bad. It was not, the breaker I switched to tripped the same.

I suspect my Transformer might be toast. We had a pretty bad electrical storm a couple of days back. It was working afterwards, but it may have taken a surge.

My transformer model is a Pentair 521082.
I noticed in an old 2018 thread someone had to replace one of these and the replacement ended up being a different part number.
The replacement part number was never mentioned.
Any suggestions on locating the 'right' replacement? I have found a Pentair 521233 that 'looks' like the one, but it does not have anything that says it is a replacement for my part.
Odd think is when I zoom in on the picture of the listing it has my part number on the transformer. (link attached)

I am a retired electronics engineer living in GA. We purchased our house with the pool about 5 years ago, but haven't really had any issues I couldn't resolve until now. Will post on the correct forum my questions.

Hi! We’ve be having a horrible wasp problem in S. Arizona. After being stung on the hand and missing 2 days of work, I decided to fight back. I used about 6 oz. of skill-it. IT WORKED! Wasps are gone. But now my crystal clear water Is cloudy. Chemistry looks good (pH is slightly high, CYA is 45, filters changed). Has anyone experienced this? Suggestions on what I can do?

I came home from vacation and had algea

So i scrubbed and added too much liquid chlorine. (2 gallons)!

3 days later and my FC is 20 and my CYA is 70. (PH is 7.6)

It has been dropping each day. Can i swim today?

Thanks

I bought a "Intex Krystal Clear 2150 GPH Sand Filter Pump & Saltwater System with E.C.O." system 4 years ago and it's been working great until recently. It was working fine this season until I plumbed in a large solar heater and moved the pump and filter. Now, the lights of the pump aren't turning on (kind of intermittently) but the pump is actually running.

When I turn it on, no beeps occur and no lights come on. The buttons are unresponsive. Every once in a while the "working" light starts blinking green and I see the LED readout at 05, which was the last time I had programmed. The cell is clearly not making chlorine though.

I did some searching here and see plenty of issues, but nothing that matches mine. Any tips? If not, any recommendations for a new pump/filter/Chlorine generator?

I have a 20x10x3.5 Intex above ground pool. My solar heater is on the ground since I didn't think the pump could handle a roof installation. I'd like my next pump to be able to handle pumping to my roof. Thanks!

My display board was loose and somehow my entire assembly started convulsing. I took everything apart and reseated the board, but now I have a No Flow solid indicator and only AL-0 through AL-5 on my Aqua Trol RJ. I know it was previously AL-7 but I can't get past AL-5 now.

Is there a fix to regain AL-6 and AL-7? I'd hate to spend $500 on a new board without understanding why this one is acting the way it is.

Moved from here.

Total and free Chlorine both 13.05 and TA 180.

I’ve had my salt chlorinator off for 1.5 days. I added more water. It’s not budging.

I’ve added muriatic acid 4 times in the last 3 days and while pH is fine (7.5) I can’t get the TA to go down.

All other chemicals are good. 300 CH. CYA 75. Salt is 3350 (up from 3200 before I turned chlorinator off).

Any recommendations besides draining and adding more water?

If something is referred to as a COMPOUND, is that just a way of saying it has “other” ingredients in it? Example: 100% Calcium Chloride Compound.

If so, will any of the ingredients Snow Joe is now including in their red bag matter? (See photos)

Any input regarding a less expensive price for calcium hardness Increaser appreciated. My pool eats calcium - I need 118 lbs to open and probably another 300 lbs throughout the summer.

Hoping someone can help. I had my water tested last week 0 chlorine, they told me to do super chlorinate for 24hrs, I also told them that the walls seemed a bit slimy....but they didnt suggest anything. Anyway, yesterday it started to turn green, today a little more. When and got tested, 0 chlorine again. This time they tested for phosphates and it was 750. Recommendation was to lower phosphates, poured the liquid in. Then tomorrow night I'm supposed to shock, then 24 hrs later they said to backwash and rinse. Then get retested on Monday. I feel like I should be doing something else, I know I'll wake up and wake up to a really green pool. I'm feeling depressed, finally a perfect weather weekend and my pool is green.

Hi all, back again.

We talked a few weeks ago and I updated my Intellicenter FW to 2.017 and all was pretty good, except I was getting a nagging alert that the Intelliflow 3.03/3.04 was out of date. I just hit "dismiss but show again" and everything seemed to be fine for a week or two.

Then one day during the day I noticed the pump was running at a very high rpm. I was adjusting the rpm in the app and tried putting it into service mode from the panel, but the pump was not responding to anything, including the schedule (everything else shuts off but pump still running at high rpm). Only thing was cutting the power at the breaker.

I turned everything on today, turned on the pump breaker and it primped and seemed to go to the "normal" flow so I thought to myself, great, maybe it was just a glitch. But come back and its doing the same thing - pump is running at high rpm and nothing will do anything except the breaker.

I have a service case with Pentair and someone is supposed to come take a look but was curious if there is something I can do in the mean time. I did not see a firmware for the Intelliflow pump on the Pentair site.

Went out this morning to backflush the sand filter and noticed the salt cell showing no flow and flashing lights. Any ideas of what might be going on? Thanks!

We just recently moved into a house with a hot tub and the previous owners gave us everything they use to maintain the hot tub. They never used chlorine or bromine and just used the ClearChoice Spa drops. Our water is crystal clear and it doesn’t have a smell. I tested it and the chlorine level is low (obviously) and the PH was high. Does anyone else use these drops and how do I know if my hot tub is safe and free of bacteria?