I have salt water chlorine generator pool. However, last year, I had pool service, which asked me to replace something in it for around $500 or change to chlorine based pool. I am new owner of the pool, so I asked the difference. The pool service guy said no difference except chlorine based pool is light chlorine compared to salt water generated chlorine and anyway in winter it is unable to generate enough chlorine, so they treat the pool as regular chlorine pool.
So, I changed to fully chlorine based pool. Is it good or bad? What the reason?
Any help appreciated.

Thanks!

I’m looking for input on what this is and how to get rid of it. It’s only on the cement in the deep end.

My pool finished construction in March this year. A month after pool start up, I added salt up to 2800ppm. In another thread, I was told the bottom of my target range is 2600. My last test showed I am now at 2600ppm salt. Should I add salt now, or once it gets to 2400? And when I do add, what should my target be when I calculate the number of bags I need to dump in with PoolMath?

For 5 years I've maintained my pool myself. Decent success, typical setbacks here and there, but generally ok.

This year used a pool guy, mainly bc I was away taking care of my sick mom. I also didn't want to leave the pool shut, so got a pool company who my friend uses.

So here's the question. I'm back now at the pool. Pool guy shows up for my weekly visit. I see him test my pool with a dip strip. No joke. I was laughing and said whats this. Is this how you do it. Then he told me that every other week he takes a sample back to the office. I call BS on that. Take a sample and then come back a week later. Yeah right.

Should I dump these folks? On the plus, they use my chemicals and don't use a ton. I've learned a few good tips and pointers from them. On the negative, I don't think they used DE in my filter, pool had mustard algea twice, first time they definitely didn't use enough of my shock to resolve the situation, my pool has basically no CYA, burned through 12lbs of shock in 2 days.

I think I know the answer. Only reason I'm on the fence is bc they don't rip me off on charges, but for the basically weekly charge, maybe they aren't really doing a good job.

Hey all! Been on a bit of a journey with our pool (not the homeowner, roommate) and am seeking some targeted advice. For background, pool pump was out of commission for at least 2 months during the early part of the year and we had a bunch of storms, way too many pucks in floater that whole time (like 5-6), obviously huge algae bloom and pool was green. Cut to me taking over early this month using the TFP way (recommended by an uncle who is long term user) and pool is now super clear and looking great!! Performed OCLT and lost about 1ppm (tested around 8am, not 6am like I meant to) with no CC so we are good there.

For levels we are talking CYA of around 130-150. yes, seriously. Due to not having proper test kit, i went to pool store every day for about 2 weeks, plus a few days following that, then took an average of all CYA values given (from 93ppm all the way up to 161ppm) and am using a current value of 140ppm in PoolMath. It’s not an option for us to drain and refill due to drought restrictions/weather/etc.

To SLAM for the algae, we used liquid chlorine and had to bring our FC into the 30s+ and our current swim target is around 15/16ppm.

My questions are: is there a way I can accurately test my pH with such high FC? At the moment my kit is reading it as 8.2+, however the other day we accidentally fell below 10ppm and the water pH tested at like 7.5 on that day. Should I run with that as the accurate test? Is there a value/multiplier I can use to account or different method (using half pool water/half distilled) to get an accurate result?
Also, I have heard that CYA affects TA readings- is there a way I can adjust my home test results to get an accurate result? My home test put me at 110, whereas most recent pool store test (which says they adjust TA based on CYA) has me 79.

Our other roommate has planned a surprise party and needs the pool to be swimmable by August 4th so I want to make sure I’m able to get accurate FC, CC, pH, and TA results for swimmer safety.

I have attached before and after photos of the pool (we have staining on the surface) as proof of the TFP way!! Also, please feel free to ask me all the questions, I have graphs I made up and keep a log of all home and pool store test results

We have had our pool for 10 years now and things are getting old and worn.

Background Information:
1. There is a leak and I currently have a Sep 13 appointment with American Leak Detection.
2. The pool leaks below the skimmer level and I turned the skimmer line off so that only the main drain is on.
3. Apparently, the valve no longer seals well and the pump was drawing air.
4. The cover for our Autopilot DIG-220 has cracked, possibly leaking water.

Current Dilemma:
The pump stopped working.
I've talked with both Autopilot and saltpoolguys.com today and wonder if the pump burned out or did the DIG-220 stop working properly? We do plan to try to connect the pump directly to power to see if it actually works.
Autopilot said that 10 years is a good run for the controller, for $1,000 we can replace the DIG-220 and keep the SWG system (the Autopilot PPC1 cell was replaced in 2020)

A local pool company has given us an $8,000 estimate to replace the pump, salt chlorinator kit, and pool automation system.

Questions:
If we need to replace the pump, we were quoted for a "JANDY VS FloPro Variable Speed Pump 1.85HP with JPER controller. If I can purchase a new Autopilot DIG-220 for $1000, can we continue using the Autopilot DIG-220 with the new pump? Is there any reason to replace the SWG and the controller?

Thank you!

I need some advice from someone who may have experienced what I'm going thru.
Unground pool is a couple years old (17x33). Bought robotic Dolphin to clean. Since I opened it a week ago I've had dirt on floor of pool. Dolphin cleans it, I also use vac hose - looks good. Next morning - dirt. I have a cartridge filter. New last season. It's clean. Water tested yesterday & PH was a tad high (8) so I bought the ph lower. Some days I clean it 2x. It's maddening.
I've been running the pump 24 hrs a day since opening. Someone told me it could be environmental so yesterday I shut the pump off & let the pool sit all afternoon & overnight. This morning there was no dirt!! I turned the pump back on & 4 hrs later I went out & dirt was back. There are several wrinkles in pool liner (that's another problem for another day) & 2 of the wrinkles are in front of the 2 returns (there is no main drain) & the a lot of the dirt is in front of the returns.

I have an ancient kreepy krauler that I have repaired/rebuilt over the years. It is an integral part of my pool maintenance, especially when I fall a bit behind and need more vigorous cleaning. Somewhere along the way, I lost the adapter that screws into the skimmer, (KREEPY KRAULY | THREADED ADAPTER W/ 3240-079 | K12932) and on top of which the spring loaded pressure adjuster attaches.

I bought a new one, but the bottom end that threads into the skimmer is too small. Also, the top of it is smaller and the old pressure adjuster doesn't fit.

the new one is white, while the old was aquamarine colored.

Has there been a change in the standard thread/pipe size at the bottom of skimmers such that the old style Has Fallen too far out of favor to be available? Most sites don't even list at the part anymore, and those that do are out of stock. Is there a new adapter that doesn't thread in that will fit my skimmer and old pressure adjuster?

I would appreciate any help finding the part, or the presumed newer part that will work in my skimmer

I have an AquaLink RS4 and AquaRite SWG, installed together in 2007 and they used to work together fine with the RS controlling all aspects of the SWG. But while running through the diagnostics on the AquaRite I inadvertently changed the emulation. I just changed the control board on the AquaRite and no matter what emulation I try or how many times I cycle the power or in what order, the AquaLink diagnostic menu shows "AquaRite (not compatible)." I've tried to find the revision on the back of the AquaLink board, but don't really know what to look for and no letter codes are jumping out at me. If it helps, the PDA shows "3.0" as the version for all the software.

Is the Aqualink now permanently stuck in this mode of not recognizing the SWG? Must I buy a replacement circuit board, and how can I have any confidence that a used board from Ebay won't be incompatible just like this one?

I have a Hayward SP2607X10 with a motor that I replaced 2.5 years ago (SPX1610Z1M) with a new one. It started making this really loud screeching noise about a week ago and has been doing this since. I'm not sure what the cause of this is, but I know this isn't normal for it to be making this noise.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I attached a video to show the sound as a zip (couldn't upload mp4).

Planning to buy intex pool for resort in the tropics. Looking for some ideas and tips. Thanks.

Hello, I just downloaded the pool math app on iPhone. Is it paid or free? Thanks!

Hi,

My control panel has something labeled “SPA SAL” but I have no idea what this does…does anyone have ideas?

thank you!

I need some feedback from some of our ITI's like @AQUA~HOLICS, @1poolman1, or @Poolbreh. I have suspected a suction line leak for a while due to a large drop in pump pot water and loss of prime on several occasions the past couple months. I did a temp above ground suction line from pump into the water and the pump is holding water much better with no loss of prime. To me it seemed like validation I have a cracked line, and I suspected under the skimmer.

So I fabricated a replica of a testing manifold, much like some of the leak detection companies use (see below). I have a very simple suction line that goes about 25 ft from skimmer to pump. I used a Safe-T bladder plug in the PVC before anything at the pad to eliminate any valves, fittings, etc. So manifold to bladder plug that's it.

I increased the water pressure to 12 and timed it. Over the course of 20 minutes it dropped from 12 to 7. So I lost about 1 psi every 5 minutes. Does that seem like reason enough to investigate? I have a concrete saw and jackhammer reserved. Decking all marked and ready for surgery. Mentally I'm all ready to go in, but I expected to see my gauge fall more & faster. Now I'm wondering if it warrants the work - for now. Thoughts?

Does anyone have French Gray mini pebble with blue glass added? We're wondering what Stonescapes French Gray mini pebble would look like if we added a double dose of "Touch of Glass" (cobalt blue). Haven't been able to find an example of that.

The Slam info indicates that if FC level falls overnight it indicates contamination is consuming chlorine,and my test results at 10 PM showed FC at 6, but at 7 AM it down to 3. Am I just wasting time and chlorine?I believe the only source of contamination is the filter. I cleaned my filter cartridges a week ago, but I'm wondering if I they just have to be replaced. What are the recommendations for cleaning paper cartridges?

Ok so I have done this many times but when I moved the diverter value to VAC couple days ago and hooked up manual vac hose on the VAC port in the pool and finished cleaning the bottom of the pool, this is what I found in the pump basket. It’s bit yellow making me think it’s been there exposed to water for a whole but can anyone tell me if this is some debris that was probably sitting in the vac return line or something part of a fitting somewhere? It was not in the pool when I vacuumed.

It’s rubber, flexible, round with a lip on one side.

Hi everyone. I am new to pool chemestry and find mysef learning with a new in-ground 1500 gal plaster spa.

I have been using a Taylor K2006c kit to establish my base parameters.

The contractor set up the spa with a table chlorinator. I am having trouble controlling the TA and PH. I have used acid twice to lower the ph from 8.0 to 7.6 with alkalinity about 90. However, every time that I use the spa (which is only twice or may be three times a week) and turn on the blower for about 15 to 20 minutes, the ph is right back at about 8.0-8.1. I tested this last week by adding acid and turning on the pump, then remeasured and it was at 7.4. I waited about two hours and got into the spa for 20 mins and remeasured right after I got out.

FC -3-4ppm
CC - 0
TA 90-100
PH- see above
CYA - 45
Calcium Hardness - 100 which is my second problem.

How long do I keep adding acid. It does not make sense that I have to do this twice a week or every time use the spa. So far, TA has not moved to much, but I suspect that if I keep adding acid, it will, and then I will have to be using baking soda to increase TA!!!

Any help will be appreciated. Thanks,

Ed

So a few years ago I bought a pool filter from Leslies. It's a Jacuzzi JQC 420 cartridge filter. Shortly after my purchase Leslies stopped selling this filter. They not only stopped selling it but they have no replacement parts. When I go to the Leslies web site the only part they show is a sticker for around $38.00. Yup, I bet that's a great seller. I have had to scratch around to find compatable filters and have that resolved but today while cleaning the filters the air vent valve broke. I went to the local Leslies with the broken valve and they were unable to find the part and any thing that would be compatible. Once again I find a reason not to spend any money with Leslies. Product support does not live at Leslies. I reccomend shopping elseware.

I bought an Intex Ultra Frame XTR used, and it didn’t come with a ground cloth.
I have a sand base and I’ll put a Rhino pad over it, then the pool.
Do I still need a ground cover? Does it keep the sand from getting washed away?
Or does the Rhino pad pretty much do the same job that a ground cover would do?

I bought a used Intex 12x24 poll that didn't come with a manual. I need to to replace some plastic parts and I read that Intex Ultra Frame parts are not necessarily interchangable with Intex Ultra XTR Frame - how do I figure out which one I have?

My fiancé’s pool filter is leaking where the PVC piping connects to it. She has had a pool guy service her equipment, and I was able to meet him yesterday. He replaced the sand in the filter recently, but evidently something plastic cracked and now it is leaking. I watched him yesterday make an attempt to stop the leak, but it is now worse. I brought it to his attention that it looked like an O-ring was bulging out in one place and on the opposite side you couldn’t see the O ring. I would like to try a better repair Any thoughts, short of having to replace the filter? Thank you

I have Hayward side mounted multi-port sand filter. I’m replacing the bottom elbow assembly (part #SX244CD2FW) and lateral holder assembly w/S240DN (part #SX242MA1X) (Photo 2). Should the bottom elbow and lateral holder be pvc glued together?

I struggled to remove the existing bottom elbow assembly and lateral holder from the filter housing as it was fit together as one piece. It’s two separate pieces, but locked together with either pvc glue or wedged tight with sand at the male/female connection (Photo 1). I can’t physically pull the pieces apart nor see evidence of residual glue.

I assembled the new pieces, unglued, then finger tighten the elbow to the bulk head fitting on the housing’s exterior. The elbow’s male end does not seem to set home all the way into the female end of the lateral holder. There seems to be a little bit of horizontal slack/give, but approx. 1/4 to 1/2-inch vertical difference between the pieces (Photos 3 & 4).

Thank you in advance.

Hey all I am new at installing above ground pools and just now finally able to put it up. We had a big problem finding someone to make the ground level and add sand for us. Most could do it but they were months booked. We finally found someone and had them level up the ground and compact sand on top.

We purchased the Intex 26367EH 24"x12"x52in rectangular Ultra XTR frame version with salt water system from Amazon.

That same day we started putting up the pool. First with putting down the tarp that comes with it.

Next we assembled the poles that slide inside the pools liner. It was difficult but we managed to get all of them inside the liner hole without errors. While we were putting in the poles we also propped up the pool while we were going around adding the poles. It seemed to have held it up for us pretty well.

We then assembled the legs around the pool as we went around it. one by one. The only issue here was getting the poles holes to match the cutout in the liner for the support poles to snap into. But again, we managed to do all of them without any errors.

Once we had all the support legs up and holding the pool we then began to fill it up to half a foot in order for me to go into the pool get any wrinkles out. I was able to get 97% of the wrinkles out so I was happy with that.

Then we put 20 16inx16inx2in paver concrete blocks under each let - though each block was sitting on top of the sand. They may be where things got out of sync.

When we continued to fill up the pool I installed the 2 inlets (the 2 holes coming from the pool) and 1 outlet (going into the pool) caps.

As it filled up a little a little under half way I looked at it and noticed that both the front and back poles (the 4 poles) were slightly going inward but still looked pretty straight across. The other 2 on the left and right were going inward a lot but I watch a few YouTube videos of this type of pool installed and they said that was normal to look like that as it fills up.

A little over half fool (almost to the inlet/outlet holes) I still noticed both left and side sides still being inward. I checked the lets to make sure they were extended all the way out and they were - but the paver(s) were pushing it toward the pool and not the other way. The poles were firmly down on the pavers - middle area. So at this point I stopped the water and re-evaluated about what needed to be corrected before going any further.

The decision was made to dig under the pavers and pull them out. So, as difficult as it was we did manage to get all the left and right poles off the pavers. The front and back were still on them I dug enough in front of the pavers to allow the paver to slant down-ward (digging the sand under the block about half way to its center) in hopes it would allow the pole to slide down eventually when the pool again started filling up to the water line and had the max weight applied to them.

But this is where I stopped. I wanted to get anyone's opinion as to what I should do at this point? Should I continue filling the pool up to the line and see if the poles push outward as they should be since it not longer as the restrictions of the pavers? Should I drain the pool and dig so that all the pavers would be flush with the sand instead of on top of it?

Of course the latter would be a pain but also would messing up the pool and whatever would go wrong. I wish I could tell you that everything went perfect but I am no Hannibal Smith - the plan defiantly did not come together.

Here are a few angles of my pool as it currently sits.

How can I remove the bottom of the Pentair inner core cartridge from cartridge canister. parts of core broke trying to remove. Bottom piece of inner core broken and stuck.

Hi all, I'm new to the forum and a new pool owner. Thanks for having me. I have these white deposits all over my pool vac and broom handles. I've searched high and low for somebody with a similar issue, but I just cant seem to find anybody else who has had this issue. Maybe I'm doing it wrong? I've attached a picture. Thanks in advance to anyone who may know what this is!

Hi!

Tested my water this morning and things seem a little off and wanted to make sure I'm getting things straight before I'm out of town for a week.

Current test:
FC - 19.5! Was 14 five days ago and 12 two weeks ago and have an SWG.
CC -.5
pH - 7.8
TA - 100
CH - 375, but was 375 before I added 20 lbs of calcium chloride earlier in the week (I was trying to raise it)
Salt - 2800 (was 3000 five days ago)
CYA - measured 2 weeks ago at 80

My pool has been cruising along after getting help from everybody here. In the past few days, we've had a ton of rain - almost to the point where I thought I may have to drain a little bit, so I'm thinking something with the rain is creating this.

My questions:
Why is chlorine increasing at such a fast rate when over the past month, it's been generally steady except when I had to add some liquid chlorine about 2.5 weeks ago when I got low and it seems to keep rising with only my SWG? My SWG is currently running 24X7 (recommendation from here) and has generally been maintaining my chlorine until this week where it is rising like crazy!

Should I add more calcium even though it seems like it made no difference when I added 20 lbs of calcium chloride this week?

Should I raise my salt again as I just added 40 lbs of salt 2 weeks ago?

My SWG diagnostics are attached.

Pool is about 3 years old.

Thanks in advance!

Bobby

I purchased a replacement brush directly from metronics. It is wider, then the original brush on the dolphin unit. The packaging shows my actual model number. Any ideas?

Hey all. We have a pool with a spa that spills over into the pool. When the pump is off the spa water level falls to the pool level. Will placing a back flow valve on the intake side be enough or do I need on on every route to and from the pump?

I will try to attach a picture.

4 lines to the pump.
Main Drain
Skimmer
Cleaner
Spa

3 returns
Main
Spa
Spa Fountain

Thanks for the help.

I have a Hayward pump . I was weed whacking and I tore the ground wire off the pump. Does anyone know if this needs a specialty screw ? A certain type of metal ? Or size ? I took pics and i think I see the hole it would go into. Any help would be appreciated. Also I shouldn’t swim in the pool with the filter on I assume but I do anyways