Hello,

First time pool owner on a new-to-us home, and already I'm tired of pouring chlorine daily into the pool. Very certain that I want to get a SWG and am looking for advice on how best to install it in my limited equipment space. I'm thinking of removing the existing inline feeder to get some space to install SWG (and its flow sensor) vertically. Planning on the CircuPool Edge40. Below are some notes, hoping you experts here can do a sanity check for me:

• There's only 19.5" of horizontal space before the return, and this space is occupied by 1) a tee that goes to a Polaris PB4-60 Booster Pump, and 2) Pentair 320 inline feeder
• I don't use the vacuum-type pool cleaner, but I don't really want to remove this
• I don't use the inline feeder, so planning to cut it out to make space
• In the space where the inline feeder used to be, make a vertical U for the SWG. See picture
• 
• Current control system is a Pentair EasyTouch PL4/PSL4, haven't opened this up yet but assuming I can wire the SWG into the load side
• Not sure yet how to cut out the coupler area after the pump tee to give me a place to connect an elbow. Are there elbows that could go right over the coupler?

So, do y'all think this plan is doable?

I have a Pentair VS pump. This morning I noticed the pump noise is much louder. It's a fluttering or ticking noise. I'm not sure where it's coming from but could be the fan. I posted a link to a short video so you can hear it. I'm looking for thoughts on what it could be before I start disassembling anything.

I've tried changing the pump speed and the noise is still there. The flutter is just faster at high speed and slower at slower speeds.

I'm going to be doing some major renovations to an existing lined steel-tank pool. The current Hayward in-wall skimmer is a small residential front-access design that isn't meeting expectations.

I'm hoping to install a wide mouth skimmer, but the deck framing in this area doesn't allow me to install a conventional in-wall skimmer with an attached basket - just no room for the install.

Does anyone have a product recommendation or a solution for a remote basket system? This pool isn't in ground - it's in-deck, meaning I've got good access for fun and features hidden underneath, so long as I can have some flexibility with basket placement.

Should I consider running the surface skimmer draw to another initial filtration unit plumbed in-line before my sand filters?

Thanks for any and all suggestions.

I’ve recently been having issues with my aquarite not showing accurate readings and bouncing all over causing no chlorine generation even though showing generating. I replaced both boards and tested salt level and calibrated. Seemed to work ok and was showing both correct voltage and amps. Next day went out and was showing voltage but no amps. So I went out and replaced the salt cell since it was 8 years old anyhow. Installed that and same thing, voltage and no amps. Made sure the cell was set for a T-15. It won’t even make the click when I turn off and then back on to calibrate. I have flow and the flow switch is 2 weeks old. So I have replaced the board, salt cell and flow switch. Did I possibly get a bad board? I put everything back on correctly and the jumper since it’s a 230v system. I’m about to give up and just go back to using chlorine.

I believe I have a leak at my skimmer. The issue is that I don't see any active leaks, so I assume it's leaking through the screws between the liner and the wall.

So far, I've tried the following:

1st attempt: Installed a new butterfly gasket—still leaked.
2nd attempt: Added pool sealant between the gasket, screws, and skimmer—still leaked.
3rd attempt: Repeated the second attempt and used tape, as you can see in the "middle view," to ensure it wrapped around the edge of the skimmer pool wall—still leaking.

I'm considering two more attempts:

4th attempt: Add thick, waterproof membrane tape, wrapping the edge of the skimmer wall to the liner.
5th attempt: Apply a 1.5 x 1.5 ft liner patch and check for leaks before cutting a new hole. Something like this:



Side note -
The middle view picture is how my pool currently looks. It doesn't drop below this level.
the skimmer itself looks fine. There is nothing wet exterior.

I have a Pentair Superflo variable speed pump (342001) and Jandy TruClear SWG. My old school dial timer is starting to lose time and needs to be replaced so I was looking to add timer automation with app control. Eventually might want to control valves for the spa and suction vac to make adjustments as needed.

What would be the best options for my setup? The pump and SWG work great but not sure if the brand compatibility makes a difference or not.

TIA!

Our pool temperature was 85 this morning, just looked at it and it said 142 so I ran out to check it out and the pump sounded like it was working too hard so I turned it to service mode real quick.
The filter basket looked at at least half or more empty of water for some reason and the pressure was reading a little higher than it should’ve been but not crazy.
When I opened the lid to the filter basket it popped up like it was under pressure and the water in there was extremely hot. Like hotter than it should’ve been coming from the solar heater since it’s only 90° today. And it definitely did feel like 140°.

Weird right?? Anybody have any ideas what could’ve done this? Nothing has changed recently so I’m very confused.

I just filled up the filter basket with water and restarted it and it seems to be working fine. And the reading is back down to 85 for the pool temp.

Pool recently started leaking. This skimmer is inline with our two bottom drains, also. Our water feature, which pulls from the ottom drain has also stopped working in the same time frame. I have leak detection scheduled for Friday, but in the meantime I have the bottom drain and this skimmer shut off. I am just running the pump on low and using the other skimmer to circulate. When I open either the skimmer or the bottom drain valves, I get small bubbles out of the returns, too. The pool has lost about 1.25 inches of water in a week since I shut the skimmer and the drain lines off. Ground is soggy right behind the skimmer and then further down the slope. If you had to guess, would you assume it's a skimmer leak or a break in the plumbing underground?

Hi everyone,

I am under construction in socal. 30 x 15' pool with a 3' raised bond beam on one side to retail a slope.

We just had our coping poured on a fairly hot day last Friday. Today I noticed that are about 8 hairline cracks forming between the joints, 7 of them are on top of the RBB and one on the spa.

Is this normal? Should I ask the pb to redo? They said its not an issues and it happens. I know all concrete cracks but seems excessive. They used 3500 PSI concrete with "some" fiber.

Just opened the pool and it looks like I have a broken multivalve union on the sand filter for the second year in a row. The upper black fitting in this picture is dripping.

Any ideas of what I’m doing wrong when closing the pool? I blow everything (or so I thought) out with a cyclone. I don’t think I’ve looked up what pentair says to do about closing and just assumed if I drain the water out it’d be ok.

Hello everyone my fiberglass pool has a Pentair globrite light which went bad. It is out of warranty. I was wondering what are my option for replacement. Can you just replace the bulb, or buy new light a crimp or solder a new light to old cable.
Just wondering what can be done with out having to thread a new wire and light. I find crazy that a new light is like 500 bucks. Why is t there an option to just replace a bulb.

We have a Foxx pool, 32 YO, replacing liner, and top step is cracked. We've repaired it with a fiberglass guy, that held for 2 seasons, then I patched the patch with some PC-11 (I think). We've decided to replace the steps (and concrete, over $8300, oh my) because we've gotten 3 different and conflicting people/methods of repairing the step crack, and because the steps are old. The pool store guy says new steps will be plastic steps ... says that's what Foxx has always used, although Foxx doesn't make the steps anymore. Just asking .... have you heard of plastic steps? I assumed the original steps were fiberglass. Thanks for any input.

Keep it at least a foot or two from the router. This solved my issue. I'd posted this in a thread that included other info on such a problem but the mods deleted it and asked me to post a new thread. Just wanted this out there in case someone runs into issues and is searching.

Pool Bubbled over winter somehow. It has come detached in one corner. I have not taken the cover all the way off yet. Just tested water temp and then noticed this. Is the liner ruined? What is my next step? Do i fill the pool all the way back up and see if that pushes out any of the bubbles?
I have a sump pump for ground water but it is not ran by a float. I have to manually turn it on. I have been running it.

Basically, the title says it all. Have an old Amerilite 120v fixture and it has some corrosion around the base from a leak where the cord inserts. The housing flooded and took out my LED light. I'm definitely going with another LED, either another Florida Sunseeker, or a J&J (have read good things) but should I go with the 12v instead of the 120v? I'm assuming it's safer, but I would have to figure out how to install the transformer since my current light cord comes up a conduit into black junction box that's about 12" off the ground. Thanks for any insight.

Howdy! We had our in-ground pool built a year ago and have had zero problems with it since startup. Until early this month...the lower (low pressure) bulkhead fitting on our Triton II TR-100 filter developed a small crack that leaked under higher pressure from the pump. Slowing down the pump stopped the leak, but air would suck in and bubble out the return jets. Builder replaced it under warranty, but commented that ours was the third or fourth one they've seen happen in the area. All on filters that had been installed last year. Same lower bulkhead, same Pentair Triton II TR-100, same crack in the same place on the fitting...

So is this a thing elsewhere in the US?

So in the past, I left my salt water generator cell in line 12 months a year. I’m sure this is a mistake and probably lowers the lifespan. My question is since I’m going to be replacing it can I use the old one as a dummy or can it cause scale or other problems due to pressure drops? If not, I’ll just order a straight through dummy Pipe. They’re not very expensive, but I thought if I have the old generator and it would work I would just use it, thought I would check here. Thx

Pool pump and filter pushing de and filtered material back into inground swimming pool for about 60 seconds upon startup and the pressure gauge drops back down to the same as after backwashing. Pentair FNS Plus 60 fiberglass DE filter. It's doing this even with new O-rings in the valve handle assembly and new filter grids. Valve handle is in down position. Filter pressure is at 10 lb with new de, and it starts this problem at about 15 to 17 lb, after which it drops back down to 10 lb as if it's starting all over again.

Has anyone used a Skim-around all-in-one? Does it work? Need to replace my current basket and looking at different options?

My Aquarite SWG seems to have stopped reading salt levels. Just opened the pool 2 weeks ago. Measured salt level with Taylor K 1766. Added salt to bring level to 3000 ppm. Started SWG, seemed to be reading average salt level correctly at 3000 ppm. Over last week salt reading has dropped first to 2100 ppm 3 days ago, then 600 ppm today. Retested with Taylor and salt level is 2600 ppm. We have had some heavy rains so that is not too surprising that level has gone down.
I Took the following readings from diagnostics.

Aquarite OFF
600
67
33.7
0
54P
-0
-0
1.59
-15

Aquarite Auto
600
67
31.9
.86
54P
-0
-0
1.59
-15

The readings for Auto were right after the click when going back to Auto.

The cell is a T-15 Turbo Cell 940. The cell is 3 years old.

Just to be sure all I would need would be a 3" hose with a clamp to backwash?

Hello! Thanks for a tremendous resource. Slowly but surely starting our pool/backyard. Currently have a old pool with 12+ years on plaster with nice brown tiles. While we plan on new equipment and options I want to find what we have in the ground now with a shovel. I'll be doing most of the work with plumbing. Personally I love the KISS method but at the same time the engineer in me wants to pre-plumb maybe a dedicated spa line etc.
The long plan is adding a overflow spa, ledge, heatpump, bubbler, deck jet gadget coming from bar (undecided). I'd really like to get the piping diagram figured out at this point to see what we have.
Currently leaning Omni PL salt package, heat pro, clean & clear 425sqft, heater bypass?, spa makeup etc

Current pad we did a pump swap a couple years ago.
The pictures of the pipes show 4 pipes underneath the irrigation going towards my skimmer, return and pressure cleaner (not in use) So I can see 3 but there are 4 pipes? Only getting one return to the pad.

Another pic I have 2 pipes heading towards my return across the pool. I assumed one was the return and the other the main drain. Is there a general way "this is how they did it in 79'" ?

quick sketches of our reno
Thanks for looking it over

I just started taking care of my own pool this week. My CYA is REALLY high - - over 100 on my TF pro kit. It was 186 on Monday per Leslie's testing. I put the hose in my pool for 4 hours as instructed and it was 178 the next day. I am on day 4 of filling the pool for 5 hours per da and letting it overflow and my TF pro kit still shows CYA over 100. What else can I do? Should I just let the hose run all night? Run the pump? Don't run the pump? Looking for advice.

Thanks in advance for your help! Glad I took over my own maintenance - - shame on me for paying $200 a month to someone and not double checking my pool chemistry.

Back again (moved away from my parents so pool maintenance went away). Info in my profile by 16000G vinyl pool. Elderly mom didn’t have it covered nor winterized just turned pump on.

She decided a week ago to turn the pump on to clean the pollen/debris off the top which of course stirred up the leaves/debris on the bottom (she did remove some she said).

Have to hunt down my TF100 kit and check regeant age today when I make it back over.

Have basically just backwashed filter/rinsed/ quick backwash daily and scrubbed sides/shallow end.

No way to see the bottom but last time I saw it plenty of leaves etc.

Debating if I want to vacuum it blind or drain 2/3 or so and refill (have landscape irrigation taps so quick to drain and fill) or both vs starting SLAM now with the organics in it.

.

I have an issue where my easytouch control only flashes despite having hit the reset button and entered manual start as well as timed start. I haven't opened the panel yet to see if a comm line is bad, hoping for some insight before I do so. It's set to run 0800-1200 daily and I've never seen it work. I need it to respond.

SLAM is completed! Once I drift down to FC of 10 is that the appropriate time to test salt with the K-1766 and turn on SWG and add salt?

Second question - water temp around 58 brrr degrees - does temp affect the reading?

Thanks!

Hayward TriStar VS-950. Out of warranty. Installed 2018 with new build. To me, it seems as though oscillations are more pronounced recently. Tech who came out to do warranty replacement of Hayward SWG said pump is going out, but I don't want to spend $2500 to replace just the front end (and/or $2000 for the backend)... I am tempted to disassemble and replace shaft bearings and whatever else makes sense and eval from that point..... since I am spending lots of money to repair my 2018 Silverado instead lol... Thoughts?

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I have a TH level of zero. Added 6 oz dry acid all at once ( oops) and FC and TC turned a very dark brown. I finally drained the tub and refilled it.
Is there a Hot Tub Chemistry for Dummies available?

I popped the cover and threw in the robot and ended up with this. I poured some Muriatic acid on a pile of it and boy did it bubble. Are there any steps I should take?

Hi all,
I’m located in Georgia and planning to build my own pool as an owner-builder. I’m curious if anyone here has gone through this process in Georgia? If so, how did you go about finding reliable subcontractors?

Also, are there any existing threads or resources that walk through the entire process step by step?

Lastly, I’m considering hiring a pool consultant to help guide me through the project and connect me with subcontractors. Any recommendations on how to find one?

Thanks in advance for any tips or insights!