Appreciate any advice or insights on the following-- thank you.
Just finished construction on a new vinyl 20' x 40', 30,000 gallon rectangular pool. We are beginning to suspect that the pump and skimmers are not working properly- either they are not strong enough for the pool size; not programmed correctly (running on high cycle 9am to 5pm then turns off); or not set up/installed correctly or defective. The pump is a Hayward 1.5 hp, 2 floor drains, 4 jets and 2 skimmers. There is a thick ring of pollen formed around the edge of the water (after 4 days of running the pump) and a cloud of pollen on top of the entire pool several inches thick. The water appears stagnant even when the pump is running on high. Thank you.

My Total Alkalinity is 120. The app says to add acid, but I am not sure how much to add? I added 1 gallon of muriatic acid 3 days ago when Total Alkalinity was 141 and my PH was 8.2. My PH is now 7.8 so ok, but the Alkalinity is too high.
Thanks SO MUCH for any advice!

I have a client with an IC 40 and I believe the low voltage fuse is bad. Is it as simple as replacing and how do I remove it? There's a small panel over it, does it pop out and swap or will I need to get behind it and remove the wire to it? Seems there's a 'clip' with a body it.

Back story, opened to a swamp. I had a leaf cover only on over winter, didn't drop my vacuum etc like I should have (in my defense we had a go live software situation where I was working 70+ hours a week). Anyway, green down the walls, on the floor though the water itself wasn't green.

Cleaned her up, balanced my chemicals, slammed her until I had no overnight chlorine loss and my CC is zero. I did put a bit of algae remover in on the advice of the pool guy that came out to fix my leaky pipe.

But now I just cannot for the life of me get this slight haze out of my water. I know it looks clear but I know my pool and it's not all the way clear. I am in the south and we do have the "pollenating" going on to the point my black car has a yellow haze on it. The pic attached isn't great. You can, indeed, see the bottom across the pool. It's just a faint.......haze. My son and neighbor agree. Slightly cloudy.

Do I need a clarifier for the first time? Will it help? Or do I just start slamming it again?

FC: 6
CC: 0
PH: 7.4
ALK: 70
CH: 100
CYA: 50

I want to program my WhisperFlo VST through the EasyTouch8 controller. I have all of the pump connected through the Com port and working.

Question 1: How can I program the pump to a certain speed when the pool is calling for heat? The pump is set to run at a 2,250 rpm for most of the time. It bumps up to 3,000 RPM when the fountains are turned on. There's also a button programmed to run at 2,850 RPM when pushed to aid in vacuuming. Now I'd like the pump to run at 2,500 RPM when calling for heat. This is the flow rate that fully opens the inline check valve.

As true with most folks, I find EasyTouch programming to be more difficult than learning Calculus.

So I’m just wondering if anybody knows how to do the CYA reading without having the little bottle with the red cap? I had to re-order one cause I lost it and I’m just wondering if there is someone who knows what the measurements would be and how to do that without the bottle?

I all I know there are threads addressing this but... No lights on IC 40 ,I checked fuse , mine does not seem to have a light inside that lights up, not sure what to do next.

Hi All, on startup my gas heater will not fire i can hear everything but the ignition. Do the cheap iginitors on amazon work or should i go OEM?

Hello! Thank you all so much for helping us learn all about our new pool. It was installed in January, and I have some questions about our equipment. I have a Hayward VSP. Typically it runs between 1600-2300 all the time. Even on 1600, it is enough to flow through the heater and the SWG with no issues. One question – when I look through the “window” of the basket, it is almost NEVER full of water. I clean it twice weekly, there is never much in it. But I read that it should always be full of water, so why isn’t it? I prime for a full 8 minutes each time I clean the basket.

Today, we noticed that both the heater and the SWG were showing NO FLOW errors. The pump was running at 1600. The skimmer basket at the pool didn’t have much in it, but we cleaned it. I removed the cover from the pump skimmer, cleaned the basket, turned the pump back on high, but we still had the errors. On the housing of the cartridge filter, there is a red valve that we can open to release air and water. We opened that valve, it took several minutes for water to start coming out, but then it only released water for maybe ten seconds, then it was air again. This cycle repeated several times.

Occasionally I can hear the pump “rev up” and the water in the window bubbles and the red valve releases water. When this happens, the heater stops showing the FLOw error, and the NO FLOW light on the SWG flashes. But, after a few seconds, the pump slows down again and both flow error lights return.

Can you please tell me how to fix this issue? Also, what is that blue water spigot at the top? I don’t think that was ever explained to us.

Thank you so much in advance for all your help!

Jennifer

We have an inground pool with a 3ft and 5ft depth. My wife really wanted a tanning deck when we built a few years ago, but the cost was too high. She loves to read by the pool and has mentioned that she would like one of the in pool bar stools to sit in while she reads. I would really like to find her a lounge chair, possibly with legs or a tall base, that could go in our 3ft section that she could use. Preferably something where she could sit/lay on and stay under or partially under water. I have looked and looked, but can not find anything. Does anyone know of anything? I think she would really like that more than the bar stool . Thanks

Needing input on purchasing a new cleaner. We have a free form in ground pool approx 34,000 gallons. Our first cleaner was the standard Polaris pressure one, lasted 10ish years with repairs over the years. Never liked how it would get stuck all the time and spray water everywhere. 5 years ago we upgraded to Polaris Quattro pressure cleaner. Loved the robotic features, cleaned pool well. It was expensive and now needs so many repairs it’s not worth it. Not looking to have to spend $1,000 every 3-5 years for a cleaner. I’m not hooked on another pressure cleaner but would like to hear recent experiences from others on what you like/dislike about your cleaner. TIA

Howdy,

I turned on the heater this weekend, and everything seemed to work fine for about 5 minutes. Blower turned on, flame ignited, hot exhausted was blowing hard and hot water was coming out of the return lines. Then the unit's Service Heater led started flashing and the AFS led was lit up. I thought the air flow switch itself or the tubing may have gone bad, so I replaced it all earlier tonight. Heater seemed to work fine for about 10 minutes, but then the same AFS led lit up on the control board. I also checked the Fenwal this time, and it was flashing a single LED to indicate an air flow issue as well.

I reviewed Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading, but I'm pretty sure the switch and blower are fine.

Should I try partially blocking some of the vents as indicated in this thread? Mastertemp 400 heater AFS light I'm just confused on what to actually block.

Thanks,
Rand

Greetings:

I have a Rheem P-R406A-EP-C Heater that has a leak. Same as Raypak I believe. Upon investigation, one of the manifold studs sheared off. Can anyone confirm this will fix it? Raypak - Stud Bolt 181-405-Kit That is supposed to be for my unit, but there aren't the right quantity and they appear to be various lengths whereas the ones on my manifold appear to be all the same?

I am looking to replace all of my grids on my smbw4048, will the aftermarket ones from Amazon perform just as well as the OEM?

Looking at this:


Thanks!

Been away for a few years so starting over. Long story short, our pool was trashed by kids and Gulfstream heat pump burst in three places. I don't recall what size it was since gulfstream does not have a website log in for members and my log in here has changed my profile for my pool equipment even for years ago posts.
Looking for another heat pump size recommendation.
One thing that i did not like with other heater was that when pool pump turned off for the day the heater would go into lock up since there was no water flow, totally understandable but had to reset the the unit all the time. I can get by with a clean pool with pump running around 6 hours.
Any units out there that would sort of not heat and restart when water flow returns?

I have installed the Aquarite S3 Omni at my house finally! Going through programming and I get stopped trying to do the heater. It says I can’t because there’s no water temp sensor. My pool is closed so there’s no water in the pipe but I thought it wouldn’t matter. Searched around no dice . my Hayward rep is at home with it being after hours don’t want to bug him any ideas?

I'm making some changes to my pools pad plumbing. I'm adding a flow meter and an anode to the pool. Both are 2". Is it wrong for me to just go with 2" pipe the rest of the way to the heater inlet instead of having two reducers on each of these? At the outlet of the heater, its going to be a 2" check valve then back to 1.5" pipe.

My spa height is about 2 feet above ground and when I clean the filter by shutting off the system, closing the intake valves, and removing the filter housing... The water continues to flow back from the spa through the heater and into the bottom filter housing. Its not a huge problem, but with water that continues to flow back into the bottom, it makes it hard to fully clean out the housing. I was thinking about putting something between the filter and the heater and was curious if I should use a ball valve or check valve and if a check valve, which type? TIA

I'm having what I think are check valve problems - the spa is draining while the pool is off. I've changed the valve on the left, and the valve on the right is facing sideways so I've left that alone. The problem is still there. It looks like I've had this issue before in this forum but never got confirmation if the valve on the right is facing the right way or is it intentionally sideways?

I have a Jandy Aqualink RS controller with an indoor remote panel, spa side remote and iAqualink to allow remote access via a browser.

My equipment consists of:
* Main pump: Jandy VS PlusHP Model VSPHP270AUT
* Water feature pump: Jandy Model FHPM1.5
* Heater: Jandy Model JXI400N
* Salt Controller: Jandy AquaPure Model APUREM
* Chemical feeder: Hanna Instruments Model BL100-20

Currently each piece of equipment is on it's own relay, but the power for the heater, salt cell and chemical feeder are fed by the filter pump relay, so they only have power if the main pump is running.

My understanding is that since the main filter, heater and salt controller all have RS-485 control wires, they should have constant power (no relay) so the RS controller can control them. Is that correct?

One drawback I see with this setup is that I lose the ability to control these devices through the buttons on the panel when in service/timeout mode. Maybe I should keep them connected to the relays, but have the relays always powered on?

Looking for help understanding the correct way to wire the panel, or if there are multiple "correct" ways, the pros/cons of them.

I have an inground pool the skimmer is cemented in the ground. The top adjusting collar broke. I bought a replacement (spx1096ax adjusting collar) the only problem is I can figure out how to remove the old collar down in the concrete. Is the only way to remove the old one is to break it apart? The adjustment collar is pretty much the form for the cement it is literally cemented in.

I am going to change it my filter sand this year. My question is, should I change it before opening or after? Is it better to get the bad stuff out of the pool with the old sand, or use the new sand that 'should' catch more stuff?

The pool at the home we bought less than a year ago has an attached spa with spillover design. We don’t use spa mode regularly. It recently hit me that relying on just pool mode/the spillover might not provide enough filtration for the water in the spa.

Am I overthinking this, or is there a preferred way to handle spa filtration?

Should I be setting my automation to run in spa mode (sans heating) for a set amount of time each day? Is it better to partially open the drain valve so that the spa and pool drains are used simultaneously for an extended period of time? Should I brush the spa separately and run spa mode for a while immediately after?

Seems like any of those would be effective, but are they necessary and is one, or some other approach, the best practice?

Thanks!

Started my SLAM process yesterday and my SPA area has completely cleared up (the SPA water spills into the pool). The primary pool area seems to be getting less green (was murky green before). My question is how often should I be backwashing or completely changing my DE media? I did it once already today since the PSI on my pump went from 12 to 20. After cleaning and adding new DE, the pump registered 8 psi and is slowly climbing back past 15 PSI.

I do notice the return jets from both the spa and pool area are not as strong as I remember them to be. Not sure if that is related to the PSI increase.

TIA for any tips!

I have installed 2 new Nidec Neptune NPTQ165 's from Amazon. Both boards failed immediately by locking into Remote Mode. Following the instructions in the manual and from technical support did not solve the problem. These have been a huge waste of my time and left me with a stagnant pool. I wanted these to work as the UI looks much nicer than the Century single button control. I found threads on reddit and elsewhere where multiple others had the same problem. Inyo only sells the 2.7hp version of this motor. I wonder why? I have a Century EVQ165 on order.

I have a C5030 filter system, and I need to replace the 4 cartidges inside. I have found a couple options on Amazon that are significantly cheaper than OEM cartridges. They do have good reviews, but I'm nervous because I recently replaced the DEX2422Z2 seal with a non-OEM part, and it needed to be replaced within a couple months.

So, would y'all recommend OEM filter cartridges, or would a non-OEM be okay for this part?

Thanks!

Hi All,

Had a leak over winter so needless to say lost approx 10-15k gallons of my 33k gallon pool. Have not done a salt test, but would expect majority of salt gone. My RJ60+ is giving me a No Flow light though. Could that be because of the low salt levels? I would expect it to read Low Salt. I know no one can diagnose my exact problem (may flow switch is bad), but wondering if a very low salt reading would produce a No Flow error.

Hi everyone,

Since we moved into our new home two years ago, we've had a pool - and the whole family absolutely loves it!
We're not pool experts by any means, so we're hoping to tap into the collective wisdom of this community to help us keep our pool in great shape year after year.

Thanks in advance for all your tips and tricks - we really appreciate it!

Hi, this is my first post. We bought a house with a pool about a year and a half ago. We kept the company that serviced the pool for the previous owners. I am thinking about moving away form the service and maintaining the pool myself...that is how I ended up here.

We are having an issue with a Leyland tree that looks to be dying in our yard. It is directly behind the pool and I think it could be related to the overflow drain, which appears to either dump the water at it's base or the pipe may run below it and could have been damaged. We recently did a backyard project. OUr landscaping company thinks that the pool salt water could be killing it.

Yesterday I took a hose and ran water through the drain but could not find where the water came out. So a few questions as I don't know how the overflow works really.

Is the drain attached to the main plumbing system for the other pool components? Or is it just a simple pipe that runs and dumps the water some where below the level of the pool drain?

Should I be able to see where the pipe terminates or could it just be somewhere in the ground?

There is a valve under a green over that you can see in the picture attached. That is in perfect alignment to the overflow drain in pool. It is also next to the auto fill float valve. Which one is it tied to?

The pool was built in 2017 and the Leylands are very tall, as you can see in the pictures. The Lelyand turning brown started happening after we moved in.

Any help or guidance on what I can do would be much appreciated.

Thanks

For now, it's a small leak. Maybe 8 weeks ago, I started noticing there was air in the system (lots of bubbles) when the pump started up but I didn't see a leak. My pump is about 9 years old (motor spec pic was taken in Dec 2015) and it's still working fine but I can finally see where it's leaking. I'm not sure if it's actually the pump motor itself or at the connection to the next piece. I don't know the correct names of all the pieces parts. I went to YouTube to see what it would take for me to replace the pump motor and it looks doable...with y'all's help! Does anything other than the pump motor typically need to be changed when changing the pump motor? What is the name of the part with the metal band around it with a handle? Is that white piece between the pump motor and the big, flat round part made out of concrete? This is the YouTube video I watched about how to change the pump motor:
Login to view embedded media . I found a couple of motors that look like mine on Amazon in the range of $200 but I haven't done any other online shopping yet. Looking for any advice and warnings. Let me know if you want additional photos. This pump does everything we need so not looking to install anything different.