Some upgrades.

chrger1970

Active member
Jun 21, 2014
31
Holmdel, N.J
Pool Size
26
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I'm making some changes to my pools pad plumbing. I'm adding a flow meter and an anode to the pool. Both are 2". Is it wrong for me to just go with 2" pipe the rest of the way to the heater inlet instead of having two reducers on each of these? At the outlet of the heater, its going to be a 2" check valve then back to 1.5" pipe.
 
Both "what" are 2"? Two reducers on what and where?
You likely will not have any issues with 1.5" or 2"...
What are you trying to protect with the Anode? How are you installing it...it likely will do nothing but add some Zn to the pool...
 
Both "what" are 2"? Two reducers on what and where?
You likely will not have any issues with 1.5" or 2"...
What are you trying to protect with the Anode? How are you installing it...it likely will do nothing but add some Zn to the pool...
Ok, I want to try and protect my heater with the anode, as I've already had to replace the coil assemble on a 10-year-old heater and a new one is around $900. I changed it about 5 years ago. Now, the outlet on my filter is 2", the anode is 2" in and out and I also want to add a flow meter that is 2" in and out. What I was thinking was to just us a 2" pipe from the filter into the zinc anode and the flow meter all the way to the heater. Then just reduce it after the heater back down to 1.5". I also want to add a heater bypass by putting a check valve on the outlet of the heater and a 3-way diverter valve on the inlet and let the check valve prevent the water from going the wrong way into the heater. That way when I open the pool, I can prevent all the shock and Crud out of the heater. (But wait there's more) On the suction side of things, the original valves have had broken handles for a few years now and I want to change them. Now, there is a 1.5" cross where the two skimmers and the main drain converge. I'm going to use a 2" cross instead of a 1.5". I figure that's allot of water coming into one location all at once and a 2" "Manifold" (if you want to call it that) would make the water flow better. What are your thoughts?
 
I want to try and protect my heater with the anode,
Here us what BoatUS says about anodes;

'Any time you have two different metals that are physically or electrically connected and immersed in seawater, they become a battery.'

You have a pool and not an ocean. (Its misapplied IMO). Buts lets imagine it isnt. The anode would need to be near, and preferably between the two nearby metals exchanging ions. They won't swim downstream because a sacrificial anode is elsewhere.
 
Here us what BoatUS says about anodes;

'Any time you have two different metals that are physically or electrically connected and immersed in seawater, they become a battery.'

You have a pool and not an ocean. (Its misapplied IMO). Buts lets imagine it isnt. The anode would need to be near, and preferably between the two nearby metals exchanging ions. They won't swim downstream because a sacrificial anode is elsewhere.
I've read that all pools should have an anode, especially salt pools. I bought this anode a couple of years ago, and figured now's the time to throw this thing in. I'm gonna put it right above the pump and motor, so bonding it won't be a problem.
 
I've read that all pools should have an anode, especially salt pools. I bought this anode a couple of years ago, and figured now's the time to throw this thing in. I'm gonna put it right above the pump and motor, so bonding it won't be a problem.
How do you feel about 1" eyeballs for the returns? Every use them?