I'm running my salt cell at 100% for the past couple of days with the pump running 24 hrs a day and I'm still getting constant FC of 2.5 to 3. The water looks to be nice and clear. I did the FAS-PDP test and CC is 0.5. I'm doing OCLT tonight and see what the reading is in the morning and will report back. Not sure what is going on.

I have read many posts were members talk about how bad the pool store testing is. I'm wondering why. What makes it so bad?

I'm in the process of planning to build a new house in a ski town. I'm interested in doing a gunite + plaster unit. My question is, can I just not heat it in the summer and use it as a pool and only heat it in the winter to use it as a hot tub? Maybe go with a salt system to generate chlorine. Any ideas/thoughts on this? Thanks so much.

My pump got really hot to the touch and shut off - after it cooled down I was able to turn it back on but there is weird smell , maybe a burning smell. Any idea what the issue might be? I’ve since turned it off…

First time post, been reading ever since we moved to our home with a TruClear by Jandy. I replaced the cell last year when it seemed like the problem was the cell (was about 4 years old). $400 later, I am faced with a constant "No Flow" indication anytime I am running. Flow is normal, I have a single-speed pump from Century, no leaks, cell is clean as a whistle (I cleaned it once more last night just for good measure). I've done a little homework and it seems that others have had issues with this "no flow" always on. I backflushed today with no change.

Our levels have been really wacky since the cell stopped producing chlorine, so I'm seeing some replying to other posts and stating that 'no flow' could be because of the makeup of the water.

I'm not happy with this cell, the cost is so high that I'm thinking of just getting another system entirely, but is there something I'm missing about this unit that makes it "no flow" all the time? It does not have a separate flow sensor, it's inside the unit...as to where it is, I'm not sure. Thanks for any help.

I'm sorry - I know this has been addressed before - I'm just struggling here to choose.

We purchased a home in Washington DC and I will finally fulfill my long time dream of having a pool!

The pool is in desperate need of re-surfacing. It is a simple rectangular pool, about 26 feet in length, about 8 feet at its deepest.

I am trying the choose between Blue Granite, Blue Surf, Slate Blue, French Grey and Aqua Blue. Looking for a beautiful rich medium colored blue.

I am attaching a photo of the pool as it is now. I actually think it's a pretty color as it is now - not sure what Pebble Sheen color would come closest.

Thank you very much in advance for any opinions, photos etc!

Hello all...

I've just ordered my RJ-60 SWG - exciting times! I'll be selling my Stenner pump setup soon if anyone's interested .

My local HD carries the Diamond Crystal Solar Salt, Diamond Crystal "Bright & Soft" for Water Softeners, and the Clorox Pool Salt. I also have access to AquaSalt brand pool salt and Pros Pick Quick Dissolve Plus Pool Salt - both for a bit less cost. I read on prior posts that the AquaSalt brand is not very clean and the Clorox brand can cause staining. I don't know anything about the Pros Pick brand. Are the two Diamond Crystal types both good? The yellow bag for softeners indicates a slightly higher salt percentage than the blue (99.9% vs 99.6%).

Thanks in advance for the advice!

Opened a pool that hadn't been open in 2 years, ph test showed yellow on my taylor 2006 test kit. It is a vinyl liner pool 18x35 around 25k gallons.
There is a white cloudy like film on top of the water, to my understanding I have sort of balanced the water, the ph is at 7.2, free chlorine 4, alkalinity 110. Yhe pump is starting to get like a green tint inside as well as the basket. When I first opened the pool and was vacuuming all the dirt it had backwashing would show dirty black water, the pool is now clean but when I backwash sometimes the water comes out green ish which is odd because the pool is clean and free of algae. I have attached a picture of the skimmer where the white film like thing kinda mixes into this blue ish green ish gunk

Bought a new house with pool already installed... My dad still has one, My wife had one, I grew up with one, I know basics, but it has been a long time since I did the work, so Dad coaches me from another state...

Pump broke week I moved in, replaced capacitor, fired back up....

What do you think this would cost to build in Atlanta? Thanks

I have been doing some digging on here about the RPM/GPM for this pump. The PB has put it at the following settings. From what I have read we want to run at the lowest speed possible to be able to still skim, run SWG, etc. but I'm trying to follow up behind them and see if this is where we really need to be. Our SWG is not on yet as we are still in our 30 days with a new pool. I've seen some RPM numbers in some posts on here that are much lower than what we are currently doing here. Just looking for some input. My signature is updated and correct. This pic is just for the pump, we also have a water feature. Both the pump and water feature are set for 60 GPM.

Vinyl above ground pool. Question on whether SLAM is finished.

OCLT and CC tests are passing. Pool looks clear. Yet when I brush the floor I can see puffs of brown/maybe dark green stuff, minor compared to before SLAM, but still there. Using DE in sand filter and it is reducing.

For deciding end of SLAM, do puffs in the pool floor while brushing count as “visible algae” (ie am I still failing one of the end of SLAM tests?)

Or am I perhaps just filtering out dead algae and thus can stop SLAM and continue DE enhanced filtering?

Thanks,
James

Hi all,

I've been seeing quite a bit of chlorine consumption over the past weeks (my pool was a tad milky last week but is crystal clear now) and finally went out to buy a K-2006 kit to do some better measurements (I used the Lamotte ColorQ2 before - I know, in hindsight, that was a stupid purchase) so I could follow the correct testing procedures.

FYI: my pool pump runs from 8am to 6pm.

Here's what the numbers looked like over the past few days (blanks = I didn't test that value that day):


So it seems my loss overnight (based on the last measurement) is 1.6 and part of that is recovered during the day with the SWG set to 35 (which, according to the SWG calculator excel generates 2.2ppm in 10 hours runtime).

With the water being clear (the spots on the bottom are stains, not algae):


I have a waterfall feature which is switched off but where I think the valve isn't closing 100% anymore so it trickles water onto the tiles - and that seems to be causing some algae (sorry for quality of picture but had to zoom in on my phone):


Obviously something is causing my overnight loss and that needs fixing - I'm not convinced that just increasing my SWG is the solution.

Is it the algea on the tiles?

Anybody any suggestions on how to move forward with this?

Thanks,
Bernard

Hey - looking for a bit of help. We have an Aquapure EI salt water sanitation system (yes, I know it's old!). We recently changed the salt cell and all was working fine for a few weeks then after the last set of storms/power cuts we noticed its stopped generating chlorine. The panel when flow is turned on is showing "off" and when flow is off "no flow" so power is fine but we can't turn it on. We thought maybe the pcb had gone but lcd board looks fine. The back board though..it looks like a resistor may have blown and not sure about one of the square block things (not sure what they are called). Any experts out there that can tell me if this board has had it and this is what would be causing power on but won't turn on for generation?? We can replace it but its about $700 so dont want to do that if it wont help. Pics attached! Thank you so much for the help.

I bought a new Dolphin Premier pool cleaner back in March. Been working great till last night. So what it is doing, is the power supply powers up, when you push the power button, the power supply comes on, but the reset light and the 1,2, and 3 button does not light up and to cleaner does not move. I called Maytronics, first person I got a hold of said it is the robot that has the problem not the powers supply. I called back to ask another question, the second person said it is definitely the power supply. So the are going to send me one. Well, this didn't leave a warm and fuzzy feeling with me. So my question is, has anyone on here had this problem with a Maytronic pool cleaner? If so, what did it end up being?

Hello pool enthusiasts

I’m looking to the forum to help me with my problem. This year’s opening hasn’t gone as well as past ones. Our pool and salt system has served us well since install, going on 8 years ago until now. Things started out with the no flow warning (Hayward Turbo Cell T 15) Controller is Hayward Goldline Aqua Rite. Through research on this site I was able to diagnose a bad flow sensor, which I replaced solving that issue.
Things were good for a few days then the inspect cell and check salt lights lit up. I had tested salt (test Kit from this site) which was 3200, i also took a sample to a pool store which tested to 3100. I went ahead and added 1 bag of salt, just because.
I have reset the controller 4-5 times, the check cell, check salt continues to return, yesterday it ran all day. Today warnings returned.

Here are numbers from my control after reset.
Pump running
3200
73
27.1
6.19
96p
-3100
AL-1
r - 1.59
E-15
Chlorinator off pump running
3200
73
33.2
0.00
97p
0
Al-1
r 1.59
E-15
Is it time for a new generator or do I have board issues, any other way to test things?
I removed cell, see no scaling, flushed w/hose but have not tried acid cleaning. Salt generator has never given issue before this and has only been hose flushed in the past.
Thanks for any help.
Mike

Hi all. These little brown stains started appearing on my liner randomly all over. The stains don’t go away with typical pool brush or rubbing with my finger. My pool chemistry is all fine. Local pool store is recommending metal out. Although they tested for Iron with a test strip and showed negative. Any ideas?

Thanks!

Curious if any other Ariel owners have solved the issues of coping scratching the sensors and the unit beaching itself on steps.

I am a big fan of Solar Breeze and really want the Ariel to work but I haven’t got more than 3 weeks out of one before having to exchange it.

Support has provided me with acrylic blocks but they do not protect the sensors except for a 90 degree hit. Also, they are weighing down the front of the unit and is causing it to needlessly spin.

I sent support a follow up email on how to resolve and am waiting a reply. I will update if I hear back but it the meantime …. Any owners solve these issues?

Anyone with a year or two of usage of the Ariel SolarBreeze and if so, how has it held up?

I have a CMP Aqua Level New Construction water leveler. It comes with plastic float valve but I see there is an option for a brass one available for it.

Before I buy theirs, I wanted to check if there was a proven "go-to" one being recommended.

I looked through the forum but didn't find this specific issue.

Salt cell died 2-3 weeks ago (thankfully under warranty still) and service company replaced it.
I go check after a few hours of them replacing it and I find this leak. The salt cell is still lit up and appearing to work (and yes, shuts off when my pump is off).
So I call the company back and let them know what's going on....he comes back with a new cell....only to find that the second replacement is also leaking at the same spot
Service guy told me he would contact Pentair and see how they want to handle the issue....not sure what that means, if he thinks he got a bad batch of salt cells from Pentair or what. He's working on resolving the issue but I'm just trying to understand why that leak would be occurring there, if there's something in the mechanics of the unit that would cause it.

We had a huge thunder and lightning storm today and a few hours later I noticed the pool water not filtering...

I assume this is related to the storm. Checked the control board - no display but no circuits are tripped. The pool heater is getting power. The GFI outlets outdoor are working fine. Any thoughts?

Hello from Michigan!

I have learned a tremendous amount from this forum, thank you all very much for your contributions.

After several years of trial and error, this forum, and the Pool Math app, has me dialed in.

I’m in Detroit, and we enjoy our small pool from April through October.

Keeping ~2,800 gallons of hot water clear, balanced, and safe is my favorite hobby!

Good afternoon!

Recently had to replace my liner, and made a super rookie mistake by overshooting my salt. It's reading 5,200 on my K1766. 15,000 gallon pool, everything else stable otherwise. Have been supplementing with liquid chlorine for now. I have a CaliMar SWG. I actually just looked at the label on the SWG, its says "Salt concentration-4500 ppm", then under that is says "Recommended range: 3,000 - 35,000 ppm". Not that I would ever take it to 30,000 ppm.... but does that mean high salt really doesn't have an adverse effect?

I was going to drain and refill some, but I might just let it ride at this point, should be okay right ?

This morning as I was getting ready to toss the robot (Dolphin E10) into the pool I saw the insides of the tracks are covered in rust stains. Yesterday when I removed it from the water I didn’t see anything, I set it out to dry on a stone wall and sprayed the tracks with a bleach/water solution. The tracks had nothing on them yesterday. Any idea what can cause this? My fill water doesn’t have metal in it. I don’t see anything on my liner yet. How do I get this off the tracks?

I've read through the SLAM method here and started it yesterday. Sounds great, added 4 lbs of CYA (level was zero before addition).

Pool is 18,000 gallons, in ground, vinyl, sand filter 300 pounds, new pump is running 24/7.

TC is 2, FC is 3 but should be increasing soon.

I've been using calcium hypochlorite granules from In The Swim, but was not checking it every day, now I will. There is no liquid chlorine in town at all, I saw in the forum you guys suggest this, ordered from Amazon today.

My chlorine tablets had gone out, so now there's Trichloro-s tablets in the floater.

So my problem is, people are coming over starting in 24 hours, the SLAM thing is not going to fix this by then.

I had a yellow algae bloom a few days ago, I bought Yellow Out and used 6 pounds for 18,000 gallons which is overdoing it.

I added 4 cups of that fiber cellulose this morning to the skimmer to try to filter smaller sizes of dead algae. I've stopped backwashing the sand filter.

I don't think there's enough time for any of this to work by tomorrow or the next day.

So if I dump flocculant in the pool, can I just turn off the pump for 16 hours, let it settle, and then run the sand filter pump from skimmer only to the return jets since the majority will settle in the deep end? Maybe it won't stir up the junk for 4 days?

I've tried vacuuming to waste, it works at first, and after 10 min the water turns milky white all the way to the top stair.

The algae is dead I believe. The water isn't yellow or green, but it's very cloudy.

I guess my main question is, will the floc keep the dead algae on the bottom for 4 days if I keep the main drain out of the loop of the sand filter????

I could waste out to the street for the next few hours, then replace with hose water for a half day, but I just put a lot of money if chemicals in there the last day or so.

My Polaris lost the front right wheel. It broke the plastic axle that holds the wheel to the body of the Polaris. Can someone advise as to which parts will be needed if it can be fixed. Thanks

Can someone tell me which valve is for spa? My spa drains to pool level everytime the pump turns off. I was told it was the check valve. Thank you!

Does anyone know a cheaper place to find these? Or a 3d print model of them? Is it possible to retrofit into the new screw in style? 20$ a piece seems like a lot.

Thanks!

Our pool is roughly two years old, and when I opened it in the spring, the underwater light fell out of the (plastic) wet niche. The brass / bronze mounting screw had corroded away. The instructions that came with the light state that the hardware must be replaced with the same type and size. I have no problem putting a brass screw back in the spot, but I'm wondering if the corrosion is a sign of something bad happening with the pool bonding system or some other issue. Or is two years about the lifespan of this screw in a SWG pool?

Hello everyone,

I recently noticed that my pool lights are not turning on. I have a Pentair Automation system and PAL Evenglow lights linked via a PAL PCR-4 box. I opened the PCR-4 box and realized no power was getting to it (the wifi lights were turned off so I assumed no power was flowing to it from the automation box). When I looked at the automation box, I flipped the breakers and nothing changed. Next, I tested the GFCI on the automation box, which the PCR-4 connects to. After pressing the "Test" button, I cannot get it to reset now. I don't know if this was the original issue, or if it was something else.

I need help with the following:

1. Assist me with getting the GFCI to reset
2. Assist me with identifying and fixing the issue for what the lights stopped working.

View GFCI video here: Login to view embedded media
Thanks, everyone.