First post. I have the Taylor TF-100 test kit. For some reason, I get pretty different test results. See table below:


I am taking water samples from the same spot each time. I am using the Chlorine only test tube. I rinse it out with tap water and dry it with a paper towel after every test.

I'm new to testing the water myself so is this fairly normal? Is it within the expected MoE?

My pool is in the floodplain. This past February we got hit with a 100-yr storm event and my pool had 7.5' of water over top of it. We had our safety cover on so we didn't get a lot of flood mud in the pool but there is a fine layer of silt. And a ton of algae and frogs and tadpoles. I've had it uncovered for weeks because the safety cover was ripped.

Now, I'm getting ready to open it up soon as I get my CORE-55 chlorinator to stop leaking at the joints. My first question is do any of you use something other than teflon tape around the threaded joints to prevent leakage? I've replaced the rubber O-rings and it still leaks and I used Magic Lube II on them as well.

My second question is the big one. My plan is to scrub the walls, vacuum the floor to waste while refilling with water to keep it full, then SLAMing it. Do you think this will work with the algae and amphibians or should I bite the bullet and drain it and refill it?

Advice is much appreciated.

My concrete deck is in really good shape but the original paint is dull and somewhat stained. It could use a new coat of white paint. There are a lot of options but each one has problems. Is there a paint used often by the professionals that will last another 15 years?

Thanks,

Ali

Hi All - I'm looking to upgrade the motor on a 2Hp Hayward MaxFlo XL pump to a variable speed pump and after thoroughly confusing myself I'm hoping to get a little confirmation before I pull the trigger on a new motor - manual here https://ca.hayward.com/media/akeneo_connector/asset_files/I/S/IS2300_RevE_d94c.pdf.

I'm looking at getting the following two pieces to do the upgrade
- This 2.25 HP VSP from Nidec NIDEC NEPTUNE VAR SLEED MOTOR 2.25 HP NPTQ225
- This GO kit Aladdin GO-KIT1V for Hayward Max Flo Pump Series 1800-2800

My questions are, is this all I need to do the replacement? I understand the pump needs a '48Y' flange, is this motor correct? Anything else I need to know or should get in advance?

Thanks for all advice, eager to give this a shot but I'm really a complete newbie to this type of thing.

Have customer with 5 year old plaster (new pool). Has some extensive copper staining (using some “blue” chlorine product).

Plaster feels smooth to the touch.

See pics. This forum has me paranoid about acid washes now.

Does anyone have any recommendations on a joint sealer for around my concrete and steps into the pool? I have attached a pic of the joint I would like to caulk. Or maybe comments on whether I should or shouldn’t seal this joint, thx

PFA the pics of my salt water pool's wearing out pool coping and deck. I'm in central Texas. I guess, extreme summer heat and winter freeze combined with salt water (?) causing these structures to wear out, turn black, endure cracks. Looking for suggestions to repair the cracks and chips first and how to maintain them better going forward. Please enlighten!

So a couple days ago (luckily JUST after it had finished a final cleaning before I closed the pool, sometimes you do get lucky) my Dolphin just stopped working. It was going along happily in a cleaning cycle, came back and it wasn't moving. Not unusual, at the end of the cycle the light stays blue a while but it's stopped because it's done. It seemed short though, so I turned it off, waiting 30 seconds, turned it back on. Nothing. I waited a few minutes, turned it back on, nothing. Waited until the next day, took it out of the pool, set it on its side, heard no noises at all, no movement.

The troubleshooting guide (http://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/dolphin-troubleshooting-guide.pdf) from Maytronics is of course woefully inadequate since they don't want you doing DIY repairs I guess. However, the dealers aren't exactly local to me (maybe 30 minutes?) and it's well out of warranty anyway so I'd probably want to do my own work as much as possible (it's just a little over 3 years old).

The guide just says "it might be the power cable, take it to a dealer and they'll test it". I'm an electrical engineer and pretty handy, has anyone tried testing the cable themselves? Are there any other steps I can take first before I drive it somewhere?

A new cable is $180! Pretty expensive for small gauge wire, but I guess it's 60' long and pretty fancy stuff, so $3/ft doesn't seem ridiculous.

My Hayward Variable speed pump has always had a minor leak at the 2"MPT outlet fitting. No matter what sealant I use, Teflon tape, T-2 Rector Seal, Blue Monster PVC/ABS thread sealant or any combination of them. I also replaced the 2" MPT fitting and it still leaks. Leaks at the same spot at the pump housing also no matter how loose or tight I crank the fitting. I've done 100's if not a 1000 different pipe thread joints at work over the years for heat exchangers running 150psi of hot glycol or Galden fluid and DI water. Never have I had a stubborn leak like this before. It has to be a deflective housing. So when I look up the parts diagram for the pump on a site like INyoPools and others, they show me the housing is SPX1600AA. But the description says that is a 1.5" inlet/outlet. Anyone know the correct part number for a 2" I/O housing for my pump? Not that I want to drop $300+ to fix this leak but I see no other way. I trust my plumbing connections.

Thanks in advance for anyone’s opinion on this. I have read some other threads on this topic, but I have added some additional info on my particular issue. Over the last month and only after a light overnight rain, the equipment breaker (newly installed 1 year ago) has tripped on 3 occasions when the Intermatic analog timer clicks the pool pump switch on the following morning. It has rained an additional 2-3 times without this happening, and the breaker has only tripped these three times each time after overnight rain. Each time I have closely examined breaker panel, timer box, wires, connections, motor power conduit, capacitor seal and connections - and no evidence water intrusion. Impeller axles moves freely. A pool electrician also found no evidence of water intrusion in those locations. Each time the breaker was reset with pump timer switch off and power to pool and Polaris timers run ok. But, when pump switch turned ON by either timer or manually, breaker trips after momentary about 1 -2 seconds of apparently normal running of pump. After waiting as little as 30 minutes, breaker reset, and timer or manual pump switch turn on now works and continues running normally. Total times Siemens breaker tripped - including times with me testing/retesting - about 7-8 times. Motor is Century Centurion B2854 with a run capacitor dated 2018. 30uFcapacitor tested at 29uFd with multimeter. The pool electrician wonders if it is the pool pump. The pool repair person wonders if it’s the (new 1 year ago) breaker. Any thoughts appreciated.

When we bought our house the pool already had a Hayward Aquarite SWG installed in it. We have had some bumps along the way with it, had to replace a control board once (~$400) and about 5 years ago had to replace the salt cell (not sure how old the cell was so it might have just been at the end of it's life). Then toward the end of the season last year I was getting some very wonky readings, low salt, then high salt, then normal, etc with no changes. Checked the cell it looked good, then when putting things away for the winter I found the plug for the cell where it plugs into the controller all burnt up. So it is looking like we are going to have to replace the whole system. Looking for recommendations, should I stay with Hayward, is there something better to consider out there? This is an in-ground 18x24 with deep end pool (Estimate 24k gallon) located in southern Michigan.

I have noticed over the past few weeks white crystals growing on the chrome surfaces of my lights. When you brush them off you can see pitting of the surface. Any ideas what would be causing this? The only other metal surfaces in my pool are the stainless screws that hold down the drain cover and the stainless water bond in my skimmer. Neither of those have crystal growth. I don't see it on the white fiberglass, but it would be hard to see.

My water is decently balanced and has been for a while. 50 CYA, FC 5.0 / CC 0.5, pH 7.4, TA 90 (but was 110-130 for the past couple of months), CH 320. I haven't had any major upsets. I have been using a combination of trichlor tablets and liquid chlorine mainly to ensure I don't lost track of the chlorine as I am learning. I plan to move to only liquid chlorine within a couple of weeks. I use dry acid to lower pH as our fill water is close to 8.0. This a brand new fiberglass pool that was first filled around mid-February with municipal water. I do have some iron staining on the whole surface of the pool that I need to address. I believe it is from soil getting into the water during landscaping work. We have a decent amount of iron in our soil. I have not tested for metals but I did the VitC test and it got rid of the stain. I'm trying to think of any other clues you may need.

Thanks for your help.

I'm in need of yet another skimmer basket. My last two have gotten stuck and were destroyed when removing them. We have a few very large magnolia trees around us and on a windy day our basket can get full which causes a major suction issue and pulls the basket down and it gets stuck. When I'm talking stuck, I mean majorly stuck. It usually takes half an hour to get it out. Yesterday when destroying another basket I notice a lip around one portion of the skimmer housing itself, about 4-5 inches below the water line, which I'm hoping to find a basket with a wide enough on top that it'll sit on that lip and not be able to be pulled down when it gets full of leaves.

A quick measure this morning was about 9 inches in diameter but all the baskets I'm finding are 8in or less. Anyone know of larger baskets or where to find them?

The first basket we had was this one and it worked well but it still got stuck and as sturdy as it was, was a huge headache to get unstuck. I'm thinking I need at least 8.5-9in in diameter basket with a lip on it as well. Any recommendations?

I have a large shallow area with 3 channels that go to a huge landing. All are about 4" to 6" in depth. I want to clean it with a 25 micron bag. I can clean larger debris with a net. I've called, asked, but no one seems to have a good solution for under $500, or even $1000. Below are some things I have tried and researched:

1. Call Bottom Feeder. Great vacuum for 4" area. However, they don't make heads that is about 8" wide to clean my 12" and 24" wide channels. It's also about $1500 with the smallest micron bag of 57 or attach a 60 sf filter.
2. Someone suggest to brush and push it to the main pool area and let riptide do the job. Lot of labor to brush and pushing it out one channel sucks in the other channel. A lot of work for little result.
3. Riptide or hammerhead requires at least 12" depth.
4. I used a pondovac or similar. Hoses, electrical cables, tubes, weak suction, and stops every 30 seconds is time consuming and too may parts to setup and carry. The other end drains out into a 25 micron bag.
5. Pool side/skimmer suction hose. Hoses requiring water filled to work, and it would just suck it right into my filter. Don't want that either.
6. Pool Blaster: Portable, but requires 12" depth. No go.
7. I looked and tried the Kokido xtrovac 200. It's tiny and was similar to using a handheld vacuum on a whole primary bedroom floor. They have the kokido 410 which looks promising, but I don't know if it will do 4" shallow area. Also, the smallest micron bag is 250 microns.

If I may ask you to put on your engineering cap, please make suggestions on what is the most efficient, cost effective way get the best and quickest result in cleaning the shallow area. I want something portable with a re-sizeable head to do 18" or 8" wide. I want something powerful like the bottom feeder (I think around 18 gallons/minute) and do small debris that could be heavy like a small pebble) and run off a 12v lifepo4 battery like the riptide. I want something that can connect to standard pool pole. I'll provide the manual labor as long as it provide quick results.

For reference, the tile is 16x16. The length of the steps is almost 40 ft long.

I can't figure out what this code is. I have replaced both temperature sensors. Cut the power on, The water temperature displays, pump comes on for a minute and then cuts off and this code displays and you hear a clicking noise from the control box.

Followup to my first post as a new pool owner over the weekend. Pool company opened pool last Thursday and dumped in chlorine and algicide (water was fairly clear to begin with but a fair amount of dirt/sediment on the bottom. I've vacuumed/brushed everything so the walls and bottom are clean but the water is still a bit cloudy. I can see the bottom, just not crystal clear. I'll run an OCLT tonight/tomorrow morning; but here are the results as of this morning. Anything else I should try or am I just being impatient? Still waiting for my comfort level/experience to grow so I can get to the "trouble-free" feelings, appreciate you all!

FC- 8
CC- 0.5
CH- 125
PH- 7.2(ish)
TA- 40
CYA- negligible (filled tube with my back to the sun and could still see the dot)

Does adding 90-degee turns reduce water pressure and flow like adding them to HVAC ducting does to air flow? I have to add some in for a SWG I'm thinking of putting in and was wondering. I know the SWGs have pressure requirements (max usually). I'm thinking of the RJ-60+ by Circupool.
TIA

I have a the pool cleaner, four wheel model on my inground pebble pool. The suction source is a dedicated port in the middle of the pool. Because of plumbing issues beyond my control, long runs, and many bends, my suction level at that port is not as high as I believe would be optimal. I do what I can to get the cleaner to move well but it’s slow. My question is, does the size of the throat inlet, small, medium, or large, make a difference in how efficiently it moves? Does the small or medium throat make for higher flow speed through the turbines making it move faster,, or do they restrict flow more than the large making it move slower, such that the large would allow more water to go through. Yes, I can try the different options, but I was just looking for some physics ideas to improve things. thanks in advance.

I cleaned my DE filter at the season start. It seemed like there was WAY too much DE. It holds 6-pounds. I was told to add 4.5 pounds after backwashing. I just completed a SLAM for mustard algae and am done. I have been only adding 3-pounds after backwash. Is that okay?

I was totally surprised at the amount of DE in the filter when I took it apart. I almost could not lift the filter put it was soooooo heavy.

Thanks

I have had the little giant pump since Dec 2018. It's been working fine until I checked this week. I keep the pump under my pool cover on the steps. I keep the water level at that step so water doesn't rise above the cover. I do use mesh cover so all the rain water ends up in t he pool.

Problem is the pump isn't working. Has anyone able to fix this types of pump? Currently it only makes buzzing sound but doesn't suck the water. I did find a YouTube video which shows different way to t-shoot. I am not that savy to switch the hardware inside. I did heck for any blockages there were none.

New pool owner and recent joiner here. We purchased a home with a pool 6 weeks ago and I think I’ve managed to keep things well enough in order. Here are today’s levels and the pool details:

TA: 100
pH: 8.0
FC: 5.4
CC: 0.0
CYA: 30-40
CH: 300
Temp: 78

15k gal concrete pool with PebbleTec finish. VS pump running at 2200 rpm for 8 hours per day, plus 1 hour at 2500 rpm for the robot.


A few things I’ve noticed:

- My pH likes to climb. We’ve had a lot of rain lately which is affecting my levels, but I also think our water features (waterfall & fountain in the spa) are contributing to these quick pH climbs. Any suggestions for stabilizing things or is this pretty normal? I’m adding acid weekly to bring it from the 8.0 range to 7.4.

- Are there any issues with using both Trichlor pucks and liquid chlorine as sanitizers? I have a 25 lb bucket of Trichlor left over from the prior owner and I’d rather not waste it. I’ve also purchased some 10% LC per the TFP quorum’s recommendations. Since my CYA isn’t high, I’d think I can sanitize using a combined approach until I run out of Trichlor or my CYA climbs too much. Any concerns with this approach?

- I get some calcium scale on my tiles, but my CH is well within range. Is this a function of high pH? We do have hard water here in TX, but CH is in range despite the scale appearing.

All things considered though, it’s been an enjoyable experience so far. The prior owner left the pool in great condition. This, plus buying a Taylor K-2006 have made things pretty simple for far.

Cheers

Our pool pump (Hayward Variable Speed) started making a strange, pulsating noise (like a beating heart). It is only 2 years old (only 2 summers, starting on the 3rd). It might be clogged (I briefly saw a "check for clogging" message on the screen, but can't find the message anymore), but no debris was
found in the impeller from the basket side access.
Has anyone experienced that issue?
Just checking before we take it apart...

The pool I inherited reduces the 2" coming out of the main pool pump. It's still 2" coming out of the filter. It's there a reason for this? Is it good, bad, neither?

Hi pool nerds! This chunk (in my hand) came out of my grout, and that made me notice the larger chunk above it that is out. Without redoing our whole pool, what product(s) should I use to patch these spots? This is a fairly isolated issue, so I'm thinking patching would be fine? I am only a second year pool owner and inherited this pool and its issues. This IS the corner with the steps (which are weirdly tiny in an otherwise big, beautiful pool?).

Thanks!

Spa return jets work in spa and spillway modes, but not in pool/auto mode. Valves in pool/auto mode are set to return water to the pool and the spa. I have to run my pump at 2100 rpms to get even a slight return to the spa in pool/auto mode.

Hello everyone, I have been doing a lot of lurking and information gathering in plans to get a pool installed. I am located in South Carolina. I have four different bids varying in price, but each contractor uses different equipment from the big names. I am still gathering information on specific models, but below is what I have acquired so far. Does anything stand out to you as being the best or concerning? We are going to go larger on concrete no matter who we go with as we are blending this into a covered patio we are also doing. Contractor B also provided a bid for a porch and was extremely competitive for that piece, but more expensive for the pool. I would say Contractor A has been our favorite, but also is one of the cheapest. Contractor A came very well recommended and was the only ones to mark our yard of a potential layout. They took a lot of time chatting, and turned around a quote quickly.

Best communication: A and D

18x36 rectangle 8ft deep
Wedding Cake Steps
Deep end bench full width
vinyl over stair
All are metal pool walls
Salt

Contractor A - $56,300 and 5% off by April 30
Pump: Pentair IntelliFlo3 VSF 3hp Pump 011077
Filter: Pentair C&C SD80 sand filter 145333
Lights: Pentair Microbrite ($1000 each to add more)
Salt System: Pentair Intellichlor IC40 520555
Vinyl: Latham liners
Steps: Vinyl
Coping: Cantilever edge
Concrete Included: 8x8x4x4
2 drains
1 skimmer
2 or 3 returns
1 led light included, we are going to do 3
Umbrella mounts are $25 a piece
Not included in price -Dirt removal $150 an hour, the estimate is 8 hours so $1200~

Contractor D - $59,105
Pump: Pump: TriStar® VS 900 Variable Speed Pump 1.85HP 115/230V #HAY-10-3234
Filter: Hayward 244T
Lights: 3 Hayward Spa lights
Salt System: Hayward AquaRite S3 Omni
Vinyl: Latham liners
Steps: Vinyl
Coping: Concrete cantilever
Concrete Included: 950 sqft
2 drains
1 skimmer, but can do 2 if requested
2 or 3 returns
3 led light included
2 concrete umbrella mounts if wanted free
Not included in price - Extra dirt removal is $400 per truck. They estimate 10 truckloads so about $4,000
Polaris 8642IQ pool robot

Contractor F - Waiting on quote



Contractor B - $68,500
Pump: Jandy VS Flopro 1.85HP
Filter: Jandy Pro series sand filter top mount w 2” valve SFTM24-2.0
Lights: Jandy Pro Series LED underwater 12W 100; cord ($1000 each to add more)
Salt System: Jandy Truclear
Vinyl: Tara or Merlin liners
Steps: Vinyl
Coping: Cantilever edge
Concrete Included: 4x4x4x4
2 drains
1 skimmer
returns?
1 led light included
Not included in price - Dirt removal is $400 per truck, estimate is 15 trucks so $6000~

Contractor C - $73,500
Pump: Pentair Superflo VS 2hp
Filter: Pentair C&C SD 60 Sand
Lights: Pentair Microbrite
Salt System: IntelliCenter i5P w/SALT
Vinyl: Tara or Merlin liners
Steps: Vinyl
Coping: Gray aluminum, can change to cantilever
Concrete Included: 4x4x8x8
2 drains
2 skimmer
1 overflow
returns?
3 led light included

Contractor E - $89,592
Not sure on models
Pump: Pentair
Filter: Pentair Cartridge FIlter
Lights: Pentair Microbrite
Salt System: Pentair
Vinyl: Latham liners
Steps: Vinyl
Coping: Cantilever edge
Concrete Included: 8x8x4x4
2 drains
1 skimmer
3 returns
3 led 1.5" lights
Not included in price -Dirt removal $500 per load

I have a 4 year old Anchor Solid Vinyl pool cover that keeps tearing. I use gorilla tape to patch some holes and vinyl patches to repair tears on the bottom and top. Does anyone know of a product that I can put on the cover that will wear better. I have 2 border collies that run across it because that is what they like to do.

Hello All,
Just coming to get some opinions on my current dilemma. Long story short the partner of my late grandfather whom we've basically been taking care of since he passed the last 10 years or so and was a bit of a hermit was nearing 90 and showing some memory issues and her children finally decided it was time to come pick up mom and move her across country with her. This leaves me to deal with my late grandfathers house that she was living in and has a fairly nice pool that was never used. I have experience properly keeping up a pool with Taylor test kits, cartridge filters, and liquid chlorine and other chems to maintain as perfect levels as possible and as easily as possible ( surprise - all thanks to TFP!). However this setup is a little bit different than I am used to, but no worries there, I will brush up on the TFP guides and surely be ahead of the game.

Since I will only be visiting the house once a week I see no reason to continue paying the pool company to come open the pool and another ~$400 a month to maintain it throughout the spring/summer/fall season. All they were doing is coming by once a week to empty the skimmer, drop in 3-5 tabs (according to old invoices), and brush it - I assume anyways. My plan is to spend around $900 on a skimmer and brush robot like my old pool and call it a day and drop some tabs in once a week when I go get groceries over near that area and other chems as needed. Ultimately pretty simple stuff. Would love to do liquid but I wont be there that often.

Anyways to the meat of the question - as far as I can tell the pump has no timer to run it. That seemed like such a standard piece of equipment to me that I am a bit baffled to be honest. My late grandfathers partner certainly wasn't going out every single day and manually running the pump all these years, did the pool maintenance company just allow the pump to run 24/7 or am I blind and missing a timer right in front of my face? I'll attach pictures but I've traced the electric from the pump to all the electric on the wall and do not see anything resembling a timer - mind you there is a black "TORO" box but I think that runs the lights right above it, I haven't cracked it open to look yet though as its taped shut, very slim chance thats a timer running the pool in there but that would be the only place, I'll investigate further later this week when I have time. Pool is currently closed down still from winter.

With no timer is my only option to just leave the pump running 24/7 for the next 5 months? A bit of a rhetorical question I suppose because if there is truly no timer it would make sense to just pay the money to have one installed(I don't want to spend more than I have to since we have a time limit in which we now have to sell the house, but of course it would be nice for the next owner to have it set up properly - I'd love to redo the whole area if I could its a bit dated), I'm just baffled and wonder if that's how its been running this whole time.

Anyways any input would be appreciated!

[Update: My technique was wrong - tftestkit 50ppm CYA sample was a big help. See my follow-up post below if interested in this subject; otherwise ignore this post.]

I purchased a bottle of CYA 50ppm water sample from tftestkits and did the block dot tests several times as a sanity check. Fail. The dot was clearly visible at 50ppm (at the "half way" mark). My reading came closer to 20-30ppm.

I'm going to reach out to them to be sure I'm doing this right (following all instructions here and on their site) and/or to find out if the sample may have been bad.

I don't want to whine about the CYA test here; I get the variances in eyes, lighting, etc., this is just an FYI in case others have tried this route to check your block dot skills.


My results:
Black dot test with CYA 50ppm sample: I get around 20-30ppm
Black dot test with my pool water: 60ppm (all other tests (FC/CC, pH, CH, TA etc.) within proper ranges)
Leslie's pool store test with my pool water: 78ppm <-- this was just for fun, I was comparing all of my tests to theirs for fun (mostly for salt before my refills arrived) but ignoring theirs.

Folks, I have ants in my Aqualink RS box!! How do I clean them out?? Can’t spray because of electronics..