Hi All - I'm looking to upgrade the motor on a 2Hp Hayward MaxFlo XL pump to a variable speed pump and after thoroughly confusing myself I'm hoping to get a little confirmation before I pull the trigger on a new motor - manual here https://ca.hayward.com/media/akeneo_connector/asset_files/I/S/IS2300_RevE_d94c.pdf.

I'm looking at getting the following two pieces to do the upgrade
- This 2.25 HP VSP from Nidec NIDEC NEPTUNE VAR SLEED MOTOR 2.25 HP NPTQ225
- This GO kit Aladdin GO-KIT1V for Hayward Max Flo Pump Series 1800-2800

My questions are, is this all I need to do the replacement? I understand the pump needs a '48Y' flange, is this motor correct? Anything else I need to know or should get in advance?

Thanks for all advice, eager to give this a shot but I'm really a complete newbie to this type of thing.

Have customer with 5 year old plaster (new pool). Has some extensive copper staining (using some “blue” chlorine product).

Plaster feels smooth to the touch.

See pics. This forum has me paranoid about acid washes now.

Does anyone have any recommendations on a joint sealer for around my concrete and steps into the pool? I have attached a pic of the joint I would like to caulk. Or maybe comments on whether I should or shouldn’t seal this joint, thx

First time poster/Long time reader of TFP and wanted to share my thoughts given everyone's help/info in the past.

- Why a robot? Was done w pressure-side cleaners. Replaced my Pentair Racer (3rd unit) and booster pump (4th unit in 5 years).
- Why this one? Was deciding between a corded Dolphin and cordless robot. Narrowed it to the Polaris version or this one. The 3-year full-replacement warranty was the easier option. And the price recently dropped as well.
- Why now? The pool has not been cleaned since the booster pump died in January. Sand/silt and larger debris has been accumulating and manually doing it was not working 100%.

I have a ~20x30 kidney shaped pool with rounded floors. Two steps and lounge ledge.
Updated the firmware (ver. 0.40) as soon as it came out of the box and charged it up.
The unit is hefty (23+ lbs) and took about 2 hours to fully charge (came w 60%).

The app was OK but not necessary to run. It does map a (very) rough image of your pool after the first time it does a full pass.
It took 3 hours to do a full wall/floor cleaning. The whole battery was spent and had to fishhook it out. The basket was filled and weighed about 4-5 lbs w debris/sand.
Charged it again and ran it the second day for a 2x pass on the floor only.

Final first impressions:
- The packaging was very nice and they spent good effort to make the unboxing experience nice.
- The access panel to the basket can seem flimsy. Doesn't have a firm 'click' to close.
- It is very solid and built but w the lexan plastic being shiny and new, you know it will get scuffed quick. Wish it was in a dull finish.
- It took two solid charges to fully clean a pool that had not been formally worked on 3 months. I expect regular use will make the job easier for Benny (that's his new nickname)
- The auto-drain for ballasts doesn't work if it runs out of charge. If it's at 0% and you plug into the base to recharge, it will auto-drain at that point. Keep that in mind. My garage got a nice puddle.
- For me, worth it for the $1100 special price. Daily charging will be a new thing but will keep the box for the first 30 days.

Feel free to ask any questions!

PFA the pics of my salt water pool's wearing out pool coping and deck. I'm in central Texas. I guess, extreme summer heat and winter freeze combined with salt water (?) causing these structures to wear out, turn black, endure cracks. Looking for suggestions to repair the cracks and chips first and how to maintain them better going forward. Please enlighten!

The title says it all. For those who close their pools for the winter and open in the spring, I wanna see your water right after you remove the cover and before cleaning, SLAM, etc.! Whether crystal clear or green swamp, let’s see it!
I posted pics of mine. Keep in mind, I closed November 1st and opened March 16th, LOL. My dark liner hides the dirt well, but I fished at least 20 worms out of there . Somehow my FC was 9 when I opened. Very strange. lol now it’s y’all’s turn. NO CHEATING!!!!!!


PoolMath numbers opening day after running pump for 4 hours or so…


Not too bad!


If you zoom in, you may be able to see some worms and specks of dirt lol


^^^^^ Liner is only on its third season and already fading. Oh well, I don’t like it anyways and want a different design.


Keep this thread going! Whether you open in March, April, May, June, whatever! And again, no cheating!

Not much here yet. Cover still on, but peeled it back again and ran some basics. Been crystal over the winter, but added a little Cya to bump me up from 30. Added a little Acid and Bleach. As soon as my trees drop some tassels, the cover will come off.

What did you do to yours?

So a couple days ago (luckily JUST after it had finished a final cleaning before I closed the pool, sometimes you do get lucky) my Dolphin just stopped working. It was going along happily in a cleaning cycle, came back and it wasn't moving. Not unusual, at the end of the cycle the light stays blue a while but it's stopped because it's done. It seemed short though, so I turned it off, waiting 30 seconds, turned it back on. Nothing. I waited a few minutes, turned it back on, nothing. Waited until the next day, took it out of the pool, set it on its side, heard no noises at all, no movement.

The troubleshooting guide (http://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/dolphin-troubleshooting-guide.pdf) from Maytronics is of course woefully inadequate since they don't want you doing DIY repairs I guess. However, the dealers aren't exactly local to me (maybe 30 minutes?) and it's well out of warranty anyway so I'd probably want to do my own work as much as possible (it's just a little over 3 years old).

The guide just says "it might be the power cable, take it to a dealer and they'll test it". I'm an electrical engineer and pretty handy, has anyone tried testing the cable themselves? Are there any other steps I can take first before I drive it somewhere?

A new cable is $180! Pretty expensive for small gauge wire, but I guess it's 60' long and pretty fancy stuff, so $3/ft doesn't seem ridiculous.

My Hayward Variable speed pump has always had a minor leak at the 2"MPT outlet fitting. No matter what sealant I use, Teflon tape, T-2 Rector Seal, Blue Monster PVC/ABS thread sealant or any combination of them. I also replaced the 2" MPT fitting and it still leaks. Leaks at the same spot at the pump housing also no matter how loose or tight I crank the fitting. I've done 100's if not a 1000 different pipe thread joints at work over the years for heat exchangers running 150psi of hot glycol or Galden fluid and DI water. Never have I had a stubborn leak like this before. It has to be a deflective housing. So when I look up the parts diagram for the pump on a site like INyoPools and others, they show me the housing is SPX1600AA. But the description says that is a 1.5" inlet/outlet. Anyone know the correct part number for a 2" I/O housing for my pump? Not that I want to drop $300+ to fix this leak but I see no other way. I trust my plumbing connections.

Thanks in advance for anyone’s opinion on this. I have read some other threads on this topic, but I have added some additional info on my particular issue. Over the last month and only after a light overnight rain, the equipment breaker (newly installed 1 year ago) has tripped on 3 occasions when the Intermatic analog timer clicks the pool pump switch on the following morning. It has rained an additional 2-3 times without this happening, and the breaker has only tripped these three times each time after overnight rain. Each time I have closely examined breaker panel, timer box, wires, connections, motor power conduit, capacitor seal and connections - and no evidence water intrusion. Impeller axles moves freely. A pool electrician also found no evidence of water intrusion in those locations. Each time the breaker was reset with pump timer switch off and power to pool and Polaris timers run ok. But, when pump switch turned ON by either timer or manually, breaker trips after momentary about 1 -2 seconds of apparently normal running of pump. After waiting as little as 30 minutes, breaker reset, and timer or manual pump switch turn on now works and continues running normally. Total times Siemens breaker tripped - including times with me testing/retesting - about 7-8 times. Motor is Century Centurion B2854 with a run capacitor dated 2018. 30uFcapacitor tested at 29uFd with multimeter. The pool electrician wonders if it is the pool pump. The pool repair person wonders if it’s the (new 1 year ago) breaker. Any thoughts appreciated.

When we bought our house the pool already had a Hayward Aquarite SWG installed in it. We have had some bumps along the way with it, had to replace a control board once (~$400) and about 5 years ago had to replace the salt cell (not sure how old the cell was so it might have just been at the end of it's life). Then toward the end of the season last year I was getting some very wonky readings, low salt, then high salt, then normal, etc with no changes. Checked the cell it looked good, then when putting things away for the winter I found the plug for the cell where it plugs into the controller all burnt up. So it is looking like we are going to have to replace the whole system. Looking for recommendations, should I stay with Hayward, is there something better to consider out there? This is an in-ground 18x24 with deep end pool (Estimate 24k gallon) located in southern Michigan.

I have a 24' circular Intex XTR above ground pool.
I slightly underestimated the amount of sand I'd need to build a pad under the liner this year.
Just guessing, I'd say the sand pad is an inch or two undersized causing a slight overhang of the pool liner all the way around.
See attached images featuring a top-down view of the issue at hand, as well as a cross section view. (Proportions not to scale)

My concern is that with the liner overhanging the sand layer slightly, will that cause unintended stress on the material? And if so, is it a concerning amount of excess stress, or something I can probably stop worrying about?

Thank you!

I have noticed over the past few weeks white crystals growing on the chrome surfaces of my lights. When you brush them off you can see pitting of the surface. Any ideas what would be causing this? The only other metal surfaces in my pool are the stainless screws that hold down the drain cover and the stainless water bond in my skimmer. Neither of those have crystal growth. I don't see it on the white fiberglass, but it would be hard to see.

My water is decently balanced and has been for a while. 50 CYA, FC 5.0 / CC 0.5, pH 7.4, TA 90 (but was 110-130 for the past couple of months), CH 320. I haven't had any major upsets. I have been using a combination of trichlor tablets and liquid chlorine mainly to ensure I don't lost track of the chlorine as I am learning. I plan to move to only liquid chlorine within a couple of weeks. I use dry acid to lower pH as our fill water is close to 8.0. This a brand new fiberglass pool that was first filled around mid-February with municipal water. I do have some iron staining on the whole surface of the pool that I need to address. I believe it is from soil getting into the water during landscaping work. We have a decent amount of iron in our soil. I have not tested for metals but I did the VitC test and it got rid of the stain. I'm trying to think of any other clues you may need.

Thanks for your help.

Opened my pool today. Some observations:

• Pool opened up pretty clean. Water temperature was 49F. Leaves all vacuumed up. See pics below.
• I added borates the end of last year and did not see any winter scaling.
• pH tested way high and added 40 oz of MA to begin working it down.
• I had 4 gallons of 12% chlorine with a date code of May 2024 in the garage. Added it to the pool. If full strength it should add 3PPM/gallon or 12 PPM. Tested at 6 PPM. So the LC became half strength after a year.
• Replaced the booster pump that had a bad bearing whine with a new PB4-60.
• Nipple on the Polaris 380 the flexible hose connects to broke off at a seam. Plast-aid seems to have fused it back together. If it does not hold then a new feed tube is $20.
• Looks like my 10 year old MasterTemp heater developed a crack in the manifold that rusted the bolts and sensors. Heater still fires and works. I need to see if the rusted bolts can be removed to replace the manifold or it will be a new heater.
• Need to replace some diverter valve stem O-rings that appear to be leaking before they rust out the actuator motor.
• Cover has a hole in it. I need to lay it out on the driveway and patch it.

Always something. I have a few projects this spring.

I'm in need of yet another skimmer basket. My last two have gotten stuck and were destroyed when removing them. We have a few very large magnolia trees around us and on a windy day our basket can get full which causes a major suction issue and pulls the basket down and it gets stuck. When I'm talking stuck, I mean majorly stuck. It usually takes half an hour to get it out. Yesterday when destroying another basket I notice a lip around one portion of the skimmer housing itself, about 4-5 inches below the water line, which I'm hoping to find a basket with a wide enough on top that it'll sit on that lip and not be able to be pulled down when it gets full of leaves.

A quick measure this morning was about 9 inches in diameter but all the baskets I'm finding are 8in or less. Anyone know of larger baskets or where to find them?

The first basket we had was this one and it worked well but it still got stuck and as sturdy as it was, was a huge headache to get unstuck. I'm thinking I need at least 8.5-9in in diameter basket with a lip on it as well. Any recommendations?

I have a large shallow area with 3 channels that go to a huge landing. All are about 4" to 6" in depth. I want to clean it with a 25 micron bag. I can clean larger debris with a net. I've called, asked, but no one seems to have a good solution for under $500, or even $1000. Below are some things I have tried and researched:

1. Call Bottom Feeder. Great vacuum for 4" area. However, they don't make heads that is about 8" wide to clean my 12" and 24" wide channels. It's also about $1500 with the smallest micron bag of 57 or attach a 60 sf filter.
2. Someone suggest to brush and push it to the main pool area and let riptide do the job. Lot of labor to brush and pushing it out one channel sucks in the other channel. A lot of work for little result.
3. Riptide or hammerhead requires at least 12" depth.
4. I used a pondovac or similar. Hoses, electrical cables, tubes, weak suction, and stops every 30 seconds is time consuming and too may parts to setup and carry. The other end drains out into a 25 micron bag.
5. Pool side/skimmer suction hose. Hoses requiring water filled to work, and it would just suck it right into my filter. Don't want that either.
6. Pool Blaster: Portable, but requires 12" depth. No go.
7. I looked and tried the Kokido xtrovac 200. It's tiny and was similar to using a handheld vacuum on a whole primary bedroom floor. They have the kokido 410 which looks promising, but I don't know if it will do 4" shallow area. Also, the smallest micron bag is 250 microns.

If I may ask you to put on your engineering cap, please make suggestions on what is the most efficient, cost effective way get the best and quickest result in cleaning the shallow area. I want something portable with a re-sizeable head to do 18" or 8" wide. I want something powerful like the bottom feeder (I think around 18 gallons/minute) and do small debris that could be heavy like a small pebble) and run off a 12v lifepo4 battery like the riptide. I want something that can connect to standard pool pole. I'll provide the manual labor as long as it provide quick results.

For reference, the tile is 16x16. The length of the steps is almost 40 ft long.

I can't figure out what this code is. I have replaced both temperature sensors. Cut the power on, The water temperature displays, pump comes on for a minute and then cuts off and this code displays and you hear a clicking noise from the control box.

Followup to my first post as a new pool owner over the weekend. Pool company opened pool last Thursday and dumped in chlorine and algicide (water was fairly clear to begin with but a fair amount of dirt/sediment on the bottom. I've vacuumed/brushed everything so the walls and bottom are clean but the water is still a bit cloudy. I can see the bottom, just not crystal clear. I'll run an OCLT tonight/tomorrow morning; but here are the results as of this morning. Anything else I should try or am I just being impatient? Still waiting for my comfort level/experience to grow so I can get to the "trouble-free" feelings, appreciate you all!

FC- 8
CC- 0.5
CH- 125
PH- 7.2(ish)
TA- 40
CYA- negligible (filled tube with my back to the sun and could still see the dot)

I got a Riptide XP pool vacuum cleaners, and WOW, 65k-68K, no problem. This equipment, along with a skimlite 6317 pool pole, will clean this size pull up in no time. It sucks up dirt and debris like nobody's business; you just steer it and not try to fight it. This thing will blow every automatic pool robot out of the water in the category of cleaning . . . the robotics are Tonka toys compared to this commercial grade equipment. I have a Dolphin s400, and that thing is as dumb as a door knob; the debris basket is tiny. Most of the time, the Dolphin can't even suck up oak leaves. Riptide, on the other hand, will suck up anything, even thin slate layers that fall into the pool bottom. For about ~$1000, it's is really worth it.

Downsides and Tips:
The debris bags is tough to put on and take off. Removing the bag is very difficult especially in cooler or cold weather. They have a tool to help, but a blunt flathead screw driver could help. Get the lifepo4 battery under $100. It is less than 10 lbs. The cable and connector are very heavy duty. You'll need to put some muscles to get it connected. This is commercial quality material and handling. You need a professional pool pole. Steering the riptide is done with twisting the pool pole. Hence, I got the Skimlite 6317 with quick snap to extend and retract. Once you turn on the riptide, you better get ready to steer because the thing will move itself. I find that taking it out of the pool while it is running is difficult because of the suction.

Suggestions:
I think that if Riptide made a "junior "riptide XP", it will sell to DIYer like hotcakes. I have step treads that are 16", 24" and 48" deep, so a 18" wide riptide would be perfect. Also, my steps and shallow areas are only 6" depth. A small riptide could take care of vacuuming shallow areas as well. These Riptide equipment are built to clean junior and Olympic size pools. They need make one for the residential crowds.

Summary: If you have a large pool and tired of incompetent robotic vacuums (pool bottoms), the Riptide will do the job. The robots and pool side pressure cleaners are good for maybe <30K gallon pools. Getting a riptide or similar equipment is really a Eureka moment assuming you have some muscles and some times for cleaning. It is very satisfying when you use the right equipment for the job.

Does adding 90-degee turns reduce water pressure and flow like adding them to HVAC ducting does to air flow? I have to add some in for a SWG I'm thinking of putting in and was wondering. I know the SWGs have pressure requirements (max usually). I'm thinking of the RJ-60+ by Circupool.
TIA

I have a the pool cleaner, four wheel model on my inground pebble pool. The suction source is a dedicated port in the middle of the pool. Because of plumbing issues beyond my control, long runs, and many bends, my suction level at that port is not as high as I believe would be optimal. I do what I can to get the cleaner to move well but it’s slow. My question is, does the size of the throat inlet, small, medium, or large, make a difference in how efficiently it moves? Does the small or medium throat make for higher flow speed through the turbines making it move faster,, or do they restrict flow more than the large making it move slower, such that the large would allow more water to go through. Yes, I can try the different options, but I was just looking for some physics ideas to improve things. thanks in advance.

I cleaned my DE filter at the season start. It seemed like there was WAY too much DE. It holds 6-pounds. I was told to add 4.5 pounds after backwashing. I just completed a SLAM for mustard algae and am done. I have been only adding 3-pounds after backwash. Is that okay?

I was totally surprised at the amount of DE in the filter when I took it apart. I almost could not lift the filter put it was soooooo heavy.

Thanks

I have had the little giant pump since Dec 2018. It's been working fine until I checked this week. I keep the pump under my pool cover on the steps. I keep the water level at that step so water doesn't rise above the cover. I do use mesh cover so all the rain water ends up in t he pool.

Problem is the pump isn't working. Has anyone able to fix this types of pump? Currently it only makes buzzing sound but doesn't suck the water. I did find a YouTube video which shows different way to t-shoot. I am not that savy to switch the hardware inside. I did heck for any blockages there were none.

Hi all,

I have been reading the forum for several years now. I follow as much advice as is practical. My schedule often puts me away from very long stretches so sometimes things get out of hand as my wife is not too interested in learning about the pool. When I am gone she will back wash and take a picture of a multi strip for me so I can tell her what to add as best I can.

Hopefully you all can help me with my pool. My plaster is bad and I am curious about the best path forward here for the pool as a whole and curious what y'all would expect whatever recommendations to cost.

• • Pool Stats - Pictures attached
  • o Kidney Pool with 9' deep end
  • o ~18,000 Gallons
  • o Likely Build Date - 1980s???!!!
  • o Replastered at least once long before I bought the home.
  • Lots of old stains; from before my time.
  • o Sand Filter - Replaced the sand myself with Zeosand a few years back
  • o Pump system doesn't leak that I can tell
  • o Pool leaks once water gets above a certain level on the decorative tile
  • o South Central US
  • o No Shade - Direct Sun most of day
• • Maintenance Regimen Currently
  
  • o Pending my cya and calcium will use - tabs, cal hypo or liquid to chlorinate
    •  right now keeping 1 tab in the floater and adding cal hypo
  • o Add 1/2 cup of Dia. Earth to filter and a splash of superblue clarifier to improve filter performance after every backwash
  • o Borates ~50 ppm
  • o Do my best to keep chemistry balanced with Muriatic acid and baking soda
  • o Trying Borates to see if they reduce chlorine demand.
  • o Had a high phosphate problem at one point many thousands of ppm. So i treat annual with the PR-10000
    •  I noticed that with the high phosphate i basically had no room for error with the chlorine;I would get a super bad bloom the second it dropped below the required level
• • Current State
  
  • o Just got water clear after it being a literal swamp from fall through winter; been slamming it
    •  Just said screw it as far as taking care of the pool over the winter.
  • o Previously have had issues with black algae; never really fixed it
    •  Its back and better than ever!
  • o Plaster pitter and cracking definately needs to be resurfaced at a minimum
• • Current Chemistry - Leslies vs My Taylor Drops - X/X
  • o pH - - 7.9/7.8
  • o Free Chlorine - 12.39/15
    •  Total Chlorine Same
  • o Alkalinity - 88/ (90 to 100)
  • o Borates - NA /50ppm
  • o Cya - 39/30
  • o Iron/Copper/Phosphates - 0 ppm
• • My Questions
  • o Given the poor state of the plaster is there much to be done with the Black Algae
    •  Would bleaching the whites in my pool do the trick. (50 lb pail of Cal Hypo?)
  • o Other than looking like Crud and consuming sanitizer is there anything dangerous about it?
  • o If I don't replaster the pool this winter would mixing a up a pumper of Jomax and bleach and following that up with a pressure washer be my best option?
    •  I would also not let the pool go to heck after.
  • o Given the the bad delamination of the latest coat of plaster what would be the best most economical to handle the replastering.
    •  A friend who is a contractor recommended ripping the whole thing out; he is not a pool professional, but a thoughtful guy who is currently DIY re-doing his own kidney pool; jack hammering out all the old plaster. He said this would cost ~$80,000.
    •  His reason being the water intrusion behind the top coat of plaster from the delamination
    •  He also said it would probably be cost prohibitive for me to do what he is doing with the aid of guys he already has on the payroll.
  • o Considering whatever y'alls recommendations are about the pool/plaster. Would yall recommend upgrading the pump and filtration system from sand?
    •  I got way ahead of myself a couple years back now and now have a CircuPool RJ+ Series Saltwater Chlorine Generator on hand.
  • What is all this going to cost me!?!?!?!?!

Thanks

-Andy

New pool owner and recent joiner here. We purchased a home with a pool 6 weeks ago and I think I’ve managed to keep things well enough in order. Here are today’s levels and the pool details:

TA: 100
pH: 8.0
FC: 5.4
CC: 0.0
CYA: 30-40
CH: 300
Temp: 78

15k gal concrete pool with PebbleTec finish. VS pump running at 2200 rpm for 8 hours per day, plus 1 hour at 2500 rpm for the robot.


A few things I’ve noticed:

- My pH likes to climb. We’ve had a lot of rain lately which is affecting my levels, but I also think our water features (waterfall & fountain in the spa) are contributing to these quick pH climbs. Any suggestions for stabilizing things or is this pretty normal? I’m adding acid weekly to bring it from the 8.0 range to 7.4.

- Are there any issues with using both Trichlor pucks and liquid chlorine as sanitizers? I have a 25 lb bucket of Trichlor left over from the prior owner and I’d rather not waste it. I’ve also purchased some 10% LC per the TFP quorum’s recommendations. Since my CYA isn’t high, I’d think I can sanitize using a combined approach until I run out of Trichlor or my CYA climbs too much. Any concerns with this approach?

- I get some calcium scale on my tiles, but my CH is well within range. Is this a function of high pH? We do have hard water here in TX, but CH is in range despite the scale appearing.

All things considered though, it’s been an enjoyable experience so far. The prior owner left the pool in great condition. This, plus buying a Taylor K-2006 have made things pretty simple for far.

Cheers

Our pool pump (Hayward Variable Speed) started making a strange, pulsating noise (like a beating heart). It is only 2 years old (only 2 summers, starting on the 3rd). It might be clogged (I briefly saw a "check for clogging" message on the screen, but can't find the message anymore), but no debris was
found in the impeller from the basket side access.
Has anyone experienced that issue?
Just checking before we take it apart...

The pool I inherited reduces the 2" coming out of the main pool pump. It's still 2" coming out of the filter. It's there a reason for this? Is it good, bad, neither?

Hi pool nerds! This chunk (in my hand) came out of my grout, and that made me notice the larger chunk above it that is out. Without redoing our whole pool, what product(s) should I use to patch these spots? This is a fairly isolated issue, so I'm thinking patching would be fine? I am only a second year pool owner and inherited this pool and its issues. This IS the corner with the steps (which are weirdly tiny in an otherwise big, beautiful pool?).

Thanks!

Spa return jets work in spa and spillway modes, but not in pool/auto mode. Valves in pool/auto mode are set to return water to the pool and the spa. I have to run my pump at 2100 rpms to get even a slight return to the spa in pool/auto mode.