Zero CYA and FC but want to SLAM

Today marks day 9 of SLAM for me. The chlorine consumption is down but an order of magnitude when compared to the start of this process. I’m generally using less than a gallon of shock per day and only checking levelS 2 or 3 times a day.

I’ve been brushing the floor and walls every day and trying to vacuum at least every other day. I have a brand new cartridge filter and my pump has been on 24/7 since the start. My FC is kept at or above 12ppm, my CC is about 1 ppm (taken a few days ago). I don’t see any visible algae growth (no green).

Although the clarity has improved slightly from the start, the water is still quite cloudy. I am now able to see my return jet and almost make out the seam where the walls transition to the floor. My walls are a light blue color with no pattern, the floor is a darker blue with a pattern (as far as I can recall ...). See the pic with the red arrow pointing to the floor line. Keep in mind this pool is only 3.5 to 4’ deep!

Should I be checking anything else to figure out this clarity issue? A few years ago a pool store recommended a ā€œcoagulantā€ as they thought my filter wasn’t being efficient enough to clarify the water. It basically plugged up my filter and was trash. It was called ā€œdrop outā€ by ez clot for those interested. I’ve attached a pic. Should I be doing something else? Or just continue to stay the course?

Thanks again for everyone’s help and encouragement!
 

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Stay the course. Keep us updated on the clarity and your OCLT results over the next couple days.
 
Got I’ll hose down the cartridge daily from now on.

I haven’t actually performed the OCLT but I can start. I have noticed that I’ve lost very little of any chlorine overnight and that’s with tests we’ll after sunrise. I’ll do one to tonight and report back.
 
So its been just about 14 days since I started my slam. My water is still cloudy, although i do see a very small increase in clarity each day. Very very small.. I can now see the brush (barely) on the bottom.

I've been keeping my pump running 24/7 and I've been through 16 gallons or more of shock for a 6-8k gallon pool.
I ran an OCLT a few days ago and my FC was down 1ppm. My CC has been 0.5-1ppm which is a difference of 1 drop. I've also been vacuuming, brushing and cleaning my filter every day.

Am I ok to let my FC drift down a little so I can swim in the pool? It's driving me crazy just dumping money into it (Shock and electricity) and not being able to use it. Is there anything I can do to increase the efficiency of my filter? Keep in mind I put a brand new filter in at the start of the shock process and have cleaned it religiously. I also want to start putting my pump on a cycle so it is not on 24/7.

I'm close to running out of R-0871 for my DPD-FAS chlorine test and I called a local pool store to see if they had any in stock. The guy there (like a typical pool store) asked what was going on with my water and why I needed the R-0871 and that they would test my water for free. I told him it was cloudy, he asked what my calcium was, I said around 200ppm. His response was oh you need to bring that up and it should take care of your cloudy water. He didn't even have enough information to make that call if you as me, not to mention I think raising my calcium too high would actually create cloudy water, right? I'm rambling now, but I thought I would share my latest encounter with a pool store which reminded my why I don't like dealing with them. Although, this guy was honestly trying to help as it was clear I wasn't buying chemicals from him. It's just the inconsistency of information.
 
Calcium has no bearing on your water clarity at this time and your vinyl liner does not need a higher CH.
Good that the OCLT is at 1 ppm or less. Did you only do the one test? I would suggest another tonight.

If you wish, you can try using a clarifier. Not the EZ stuff you showed earlier, that is Floc.
You need to get SeaKlear Chitosan Clarifier. Follow the directions. DO NOT buy cheap clarifier at a pool store.

This is only used when it has been confirmed the organics are eradicated and your filtering system is struggling. Never use clarifier for a common cloudy pool. Chlorine is what you use for that.

If you can see the bottom of the pool, you can swim. As long as FC is at or below SLAM Level.

To get refills, go to TFTestkits.net. They have refills. You will not get the FAS-DPD refills at pool stores.
 
Calcium has no bearing on your water clarity at this time and your vinyl liner does not need a higher CH.
Good that the OCLT is at 1 ppm or less. Did you only do the one test? I would suggest another tonight.

If you wish, you can try using a clarifier. Not the EZ stuff you showed earlier, that is Floc.
You need to get SeaKlear Chitosan Clarifier. Follow the directions. DO NOT buy cheap clarifier at a pool store.

This is only used when it has been confirmed the organics are eradicated and your filtering system is struggling. Never use clarifier for a common cloudy pool. Chlorine is what you use for that.

If you can see the bottom of the pool, you can swim. As long as FC is at or below SLAM Level.

To get refills, go to TFTestkits.net. They have refills. You will not get the FAS-DPD refills at pool stores.

I did only run one test. I'll run another one tonight. The OCLT doesn't specify whether or not to have the pump on overnight, so is it ok if I leave it off assuming any added chlorine was at least 30 min prior?

So can I let my FC level drop to normal levels? Or do I need to keep it at SLAM level (my goal has been FC = 12ppm with CYA = 30ppm) until I have confirmed organics have been eradicated? What confirms this by the way? An OCLT < 1ppm and CC < 0.5ppm?

I looked into the SeaKlear Chitosan Clarifier you suggested and was able to find SeaKlear Natural Clarifier which was listed as Chitosan Clarifier. Do you happen to know if they are the same? I submitted a question on their website, just not sure how quickly they will get back to me.
SeaKlear Chitosan Clarifier (1 qt)

When was the last time you cleaned your filter? You should check that .. and definitely flush them clean before you follow Marty's advice. I think that will help with clearing the last particulate matter... hang in there. You are in the home stretch.

I've been cleaning once a day for the past 7 or so days.

Is there any issue swimming in the pool if the FC = 12ppm? I've been in to vacuum and see how the floor "feels" but I haven't spent much time in there.

Thanks again for everyone's help!
 

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So can I let my FC level drop to normal levels? Or do I need to keep it at SLAM level (my goal has been FC = 12ppm with CYA = 30ppm) until I have confirmed organics have been eradicated? What confirms this by the way? An OCLT < 1ppm and CC < 0.5ppm?
Stay at SLAM level today, at least. There are three criteria in SLAM Process for success. You are not passing the clear water. The other two are as you show. Check those tonight. You can leave your pump off overnight, but you need to run it for 30 minutes prior to taking your AM sample. Before the sun hits the pool surface.
Do you happen to know if they are the same?
They are. The one you linked is correct.
 
Is there any issue swimming in the pool if the FC = 12ppm?
You can safely swim in a pool as long as the FC is above the minimum and at or below SLAM level based on your CYA. You must also be able to see the bottom of the pool in the deep end of the pool.
 
As always, thanks for the replies and advice.

I ran another OCLT and I either didn’t lose any FC or I’m down 0.5ppm. It depends on how anal I am about there being no pink left. Sometimes I feel like there is just the slightest tinge left, I’ll add one more drop of R-0871 and it’s crystal clear.

FC = 12.5
CC = 0.5
30 < CYA > 20 it’s definitely more than 20 but not quite 30.

Also the clarity is improving every day, slowly but still. I tried to take a few pics before the sun was really up. You can definitely see the bottom all the way around but there is still some cloudiness.

So, my thoughts are to drop FC to something lower (not sure what yet) and raise CYA up to somewhere between 30 and 40ppm.

I was also planning on putting a new cartridge in my chlorinator which contains tricolor I believe. Not sure how to factor this into the CYA adjustment. The chlorinator has been turned ā€œoffā€ and contains a spent cartridge throughout this entire process.

This morning it was 60F and it will be over 90F for the next 3 or 4 days (almost 100F on Sunday). Having the pool be usable will be great!
 

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If you want to use the trichlor to raise your CYA a bit, that is fine. But do not go back to daily maintenance use of trichlor. Use liquid chlorine.
 
New to your thread and rooting for you as well. I did not see it discussed so curious to ask - at under 10k gallons did you ever consider a drain and fill at all - or at least a 50% replacement to help speed the process along? Realize it would be throwing away 14 days of slam work to consider now but it’s not a huge amount of water (I suppose everyone’s water supply situation is different.)

I am not an expert on this but maybe someone could suggest something to augment your existing filter .. filter basket sock type thing or something else maybe as it sounds like filtering is your biggest issue at this point.

Good luck and you definitely have more patience than I do!!
 
Sorry for the delay!

New to your thread and rooting for you as well. I did not see it discussed so curious to ask - at under 10k gallons did you ever consider a drain and fill at all - or at least a 50% replacement to help speed the process along? Realize it would be throwing away 14 days of slam work to consider now but it’s not a huge amount of water (I suppose everyone’s water supply situation is different.)

I am not an expert on this but maybe someone could suggest something to augment your existing filter .. filter basket sock type thing or something else maybe as it sounds like filtering is your biggest issue at this point.

Good luck and you definitely have more patience than I do!!

Yes, after day 10 I was getting antsy and this kept going through my mind. Water is very expensive in my town but it might have been cheaper to just start over. I’m not sure how the water chemistry would be with new water but I imagine it wouldn’t be full of algae. Also if I were to drain all of the water out I probably should replace my liner at the same time and I just wasn’t ready for that.

My pool is crystal clear now and I can see the bottom perfectly. I ordered the natural clarifier but I the water was near perfect before it came. It just took a lot of time filtering to get there. We have been using the pool every night which makes all the work 100% worth it. Other years we would use the pool on rare occasion and I would spend more time messing with algaecide and shock then actually swimming in it. It also hasn’t been this consistently warm.

I believe my slam was a total of 16 or so days and I used about 13 gallons of 12.5% shock, maybe a few more. The water is clear and algae free.

Thank you everyone for the help! This process works very well, it just takes a lot of time and effort, and some money. The amount seems to vary by situation. I learned something new and am now an expert at my pool. I no longer seek the confusing advice from pool store employees. Some may know what they are talking about but most do not.

Thanks again!
 
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