Mdragger88
Bronze Supporter
Yet another newbie with chemical ?
- Thread starter Lablover1211
- Start date
Wow! That was a test in patience and also allowed me to have a completely new relationship with my pool!! Who knew?!! Well it took a few days but I finally passed the overnight test and my pool never has been so clear. Waiting for the FC to normal out today. When is a good time to recheck my other values? As I’m not sure how the night chlorine affects the other numbers yet.. but I’m learning 
Oh, also. Since I blew through my 0871 bottle I was wondering if you all happen to know where I should reorder this. I see the Taylor sight has some but I wanted to get a bigger bottle, as I’m gonna be a chlorine testing fool from here in out. I’m worried about expiring since I won’t be using this during the off season.. on yeah .. in 3 weeks. Glad I cleared all this up n time to close. 
Most of us get our refills from TFTestkits.net. Some have purchased off of sites like Amazon, but be ware the product can be old. TFTestkits only sells fresh reagents.
Orders from tftestkits.net come fresh with a ~2 year expiration date. Amazon etal is hit/miss.
FC over 10 makes the PH test invalid. The other tests aren't particularly time sensitive so you won't adjust your TA unless you find the PH to be swinging after once the FC dies down. The CH test doesn't matter for your pool and the CYA hasn't changed significantly in the last few days.
FC over 10 makes the PH test invalid. The other tests aren't particularly time sensitive so you won't adjust your TA unless you find the PH to be swinging after once the FC dies down. The CH test doesn't matter for your pool and the CYA hasn't changed significantly in the last few days.
Mdragger88
Bronze Supporter
Way to go! Enjoy your hard work!
The purpose of overnight chlorine loss test is to eliminate the possibility of fc loss from the sun therefore if you have loss at night it must be due to organics.
I assume that’s what u were referring to.
Test fc daily to be sure & maintain the higher target level for your cya in this chart
FC/CYA Chart so you don’t get algae again.
When you’re fc falls below 10 test all your parameters & we can help u get it all straight
Not sure what your weather is like but we don’t recommend closing until the water temp is consistently around 60 degrees & opening in a similar fashion before water temp rises above 60/65 in the spring.
Here’s the guide
www.troublefreepool.com
The purpose of overnight chlorine loss test is to eliminate the possibility of fc loss from the sun therefore if you have loss at night it must be due to organics.
I assume that’s what u were referring to.
Test fc daily to be sure & maintain the higher target level for your cya in this chart
FC/CYA Chart so you don’t get algae again.
When you’re fc falls below 10 test all your parameters & we can help u get it all straight
Not sure what your weather is like but we don’t recommend closing until the water temp is consistently around 60 degrees & opening in a similar fashion before water temp rises above 60/65 in the spring.
Here’s the guide
Closing (Winterizing) Your Above Ground Pool - Trouble Free Pool
Closing an above ground pool at season’s end should be a fast and worry-free process. Learn the basics of above ground pool winterization in easy steps.
www.troublefreepool.com
Thanks so much for the encouragement and continued help!!
Im always happy to learn ... so... here are my results today...
FC-8.5
CC- 0.5 (very light pink after testing FC)
TA-1
PH-7.5
CH-130
CYA-50
I’m worried about opening my heater valves due to corrosiveness. With these readings I’m wondering if I’m good.
I’m aerating right now to bring up PH
calcium hardness I think I off too.
Im always happy to learn ... so... here are my results today...
FC-8.5
CC- 0.5 (very light pink after testing FC)
TA-1
PH-7.5
CH-130
CYA-50
I’m worried about opening my heater valves due to corrosiveness. With these readings I’m wondering if I’m good.
I’m aerating right now to bring up PH
calcium hardness I think I off too.
Calcium does not matter for you. Some is great. You have some. Test it only so you know you have some. Which you do. 
you have a typo with you TA but that is prolly fine too.
all pools have their own happy spot for PH but as long as yours is 7.2-8, Yup. Fine again. If it’s 7.2 - 7.8 that’s even better.
heat away.
you have a typo with you TA but that is prolly fine too.
all pools have their own happy spot for PH but as long as yours is 7.2-8, Yup. Fine again.
If it’s 7.2 - 7.8 that’s even better.heat away.
Mdragger88
Bronze Supporter
Did u run any slam level water through the heater to be sure there were no nasties in it?
checked out your pool log - they all look great
Tomorrow afternoon test & then add liquid chlorine to get to 8ppm - do this everyday day until u get a feel for how much your pool “drinks” then u can dose daily but test every other day if u like.
If u dose it to the top maintenance target for your cya
FC/CYA Chart
you ensure you will never go to the minimum or below even if you lose 4ppm in one day from lots of sun, swimmers, debris etc.
When your ph rises to 8 use muriatic acid to lower it back down to 7.2 - let it rise naturally then rinse & repeat -over time this will lower your ta & eventually your pool will find its happy ta & the ph rise will stabilize
checked out your pool log - they all look great
Tomorrow afternoon test & then add liquid chlorine to get to 8ppm - do this everyday day until u get a feel for how much your pool “drinks” then u can dose daily but test every other day if u like.
If u dose it to the top maintenance target for your cya
FC/CYA Chart
you ensure you will never go to the minimum or below even if you lose 4ppm in one day from lots of sun, swimmers, debris etc.
When your ph rises to 8 use muriatic acid to lower it back down to 7.2 - let it rise naturally then rinse & repeat -over time this will lower your ta & eventually your pool will find its happy ta & the ph rise will stabilize
Thank you again for sharing your knowledge... and patience 
Sadly, I did not run the shock through the heater. I was told the concentrated chlorine from my frog get system that I use to have was the main reason the corrosion killed my heat exchanger. I was too afraid of that high of chlorine for those many days would have done it again
It’s holding steady at 7.8/8.0 free chlorine right now. But I’m so glad u have me that tip to see what kind of loss I may have I. Order to keep the maintenance.
i was afraid the high TA would be corrosive too. But I’mon track to raise this darn PH to 8.0 and then use the acid to lower as you suggested. Thanks again!!
Sadly, I did not run the shock through the heater. I was told the concentrated chlorine from my frog get system that I use to have was the main reason the corrosion killed my heat exchanger. I was too afraid of that high of chlorine for those many days would have done it again
It’s holding steady at 7.8/8.0 free chlorine right now. But I’m so glad u have me that tip to see what kind of loss I may have I. Order to keep the maintenance.
i was afraid the high TA would be corrosive too. But I’mon track to raise this darn PH to 8.0 and then use the acid to lower as you suggested. Thanks again!!
Low pH destroys the heater. Chlorine is not an issue. The very acidic stew of Trichlor bled back into the heater core and destroyed it. If you use Trichlor in a feeder after a heater, the pump should not ever be turned off while there is Trichlor there.
Oh wow! Always appreciative for correct information. That’s so interesting. And I’ll have to keep an eye on the PH now that I have replaced that heat exchanger...
