Wiring Help - Intermatic P1353ME

[bscott8880]

Hi All,

I'm installing a new timer to support an existing single speed pump, salt water generator, and natural gas heater. I went with the P1353ME from Intermatic because of the different mode options and support for multiple circuits. The attached wiring diagram shows the approach I plan on taking (ground wires have been excluded for clarity). I'll be using AlumiConn 3-port connectors to feed power between circuits and the equipment. This timer has a fireman's switch, but Hayward says you don't need one for their heaters (not sure if this is true).

Questions for the Group:

1. Is there a different approach I should take with the wiring?
2. What mode is best for this setup? My guess Is mode 6 (Aux 1, Aux 2, Aux 3)
3. Will separate schedules need to be set for each of the three circuits?

Specifications for my setup:

• Pool - Mid to late 1960s Gunite (~30,000 gallons)
• Pump - Pentair Superflo N1 (1.5 HP)
• SWG - Hayward AquaRite W3AQR15
• Heater - Hayward Universal H-Series

 

[Jimrahbe]

Scott,

I suggest that call the Fire Department before you turn it on...

As soon as you turn on Circuit 1, 2 or 3, you will be shorting L1 and L2 together...

I don't think you understand how the timer works..

As an example.. Any voltage you put on pin 3, will come out of pin 4 when the circuit is on.

Same thing for Pins 5 and 6, and the Pins 7 and 8

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[jgofnj]

Scott,

I suggest that call the Fire Department before you turn it on...

As soon as you turn on Circuit 1, 2 or 3, you will be shorting L1 and L2 together...

I don't think you understand how the timer works..

As an example.. Any voltage you put on pin 3, will come out of pin 4 when the circuit is on.

Same thing for Pins 5 and 6, and the Pins 7 and 8

Thanks,

Jim R.

I am not an electrician by any means but I was looking at that wiring diagram and thought something don't look right but what do I know. As handy as I am, this is why I don't mess around with electrical work.

 

[1poolman1]

Hi All,

I'm installing a new timer to support an existing single speed pump, salt water generator, and natural gas heater. I went with the P1353ME from Intermatic because of the different mode options and support for multiple circuits. The attached wiring diagram shows the approach I plan on taking (ground wires have been excluded for clarity). I'll be using AlumiConn 3-port connectors to feed power between circuits and the equipment. This timer has a fireman's switch, but Hayward says you don't need one for their heaters (not sure if this is true).

Questions for the Group:

1. Is there a different approach I should take with the wiring?
2. What mode is best for this setup? My guess Is mode 6 (Aux 1, Aux 2, Aux 3)
3. Will separate schedules need to be set for each of the three circuits?

Specifications for my setup:

• Pool - Mid to late 1960s Gunite (~30,000 gallons)
• Pump - Pentair Superflo N1 (1.5 HP)
• SWG - Hayward AquaRite W3AQR15
• Heater - Hayward Universal H-Series

Jump 2 to 3,5,7. Attach 1 to the wires to the other side of the appliance (all black wires in the diagram) after removing from 3,5,7. Remember that you are only switching one side of the power at each appliance with this timer and the other side will continue to be "hot" unless the breaker is tripped off even if the circuit says "off." That can kill you if you aren't careful when working on the various items (not a joke but reality). Always check, then check again, that the power is off.

Older heaters needed a "fireman's switch" with a mechanical timer to cool them off before the pump shut off because of the tremendous amount of heat they retained after the heater shut off. Newer heaters don't hold that much heat because of the different insulating material now used in them. It is still a good idea to allow power to stay at the heater so that its cool-down fan will keep running when it stops heating. This is usually just a 5-minute run, so the power can shut off 5 - 10 minutes after the main pump.

Some will argue that you are now just relying on the pressure switch to keep the heater off, but in 30+ years I have only seen 1 fail in the closed position that would allow the heater to fire without waterflow. On the other hand, I have replaced hundreds that have failed open and wouldn't let the heater fire. Or you could go the "belt and suspenders" route and install a flow switch in series with the pressure switch.