Will it fit?

[Donna's Poolboy]

I'm thinking about installing a SWG this spring. I'm wondering where (and most importantly IF) one will fit with my current set up. Here's an overall view:

There's only about 9 inches of clearance between the concrete pad and the return plumbing:

The fence is vinyl and probably not a good place to attach the control unit, so I thought it could mount on the 4x4 pictured to the left of the heater:

Any thoughts on where it could fit? Also, as far as electrical requirements, do most run on AC 220 or 110 or do they require some kind of transformer?

Thanks,
Bill

 

[spishex]

Plenty of room between the filter and heater. That's not ideal, but not the end of the world either, and certainly beats not having a SWG imo.

You could replace the 'T' that separates the two return valves and turn it into a '+', incorporate the stub out for the 3/4" line (or is that 1/2"?) into that and you'd have room after the heater.

 

[Heckpools]

There must be at least a 12" (25cm) straight pipe
run before (upstream) the flow switch. If the switch is plumbed
after the cell, the cell can by counted as the 12" (25cm) of straight
pipe. To ensure proper operation, verify that the arrow on the
flow switch (located on top of gray hex) points in the direction
of water flow.

copied this from the hayward home page.. it doesnt look like you have much room, without having to re-plumb some of your system. check this page out. scroll down to page 10

http://www.haywardnet.com/products/manu ... ual239.pdf

 

[Donna's Poolboy]

You could replace the 'T' that separates the two return valves and turn it into a '+', incorporate the stub out for the 3/4" line (or is that 1/2"?) into that and you'd have room after the heater.

Yep..I like that idea. I'd have 8" (possibly 9") from the heater inlet and the '+'.
The thinner line is 1/2" and feeds the 2 fountains. The return line is 1 1/2"

 

[JoshU]

The AutoPilot manifold requires 13" of pipe space, regardless of which cell you choose. Since the manifold incorporates both the cell and the tri-sensor there is no need for extra space as most other systems need for a flow switch and room between the switch and the cell.

I would not recommend adding a system before the heater.

 

[New2Me]

Most can be ordered in either 110 or 220 volt models, and use a transformer to get a cell voltage of 24-36v??? The Australian models usually operate at 220-230v? Some models have the controls built in to the cell (pentair) and just use a power transformer, some have cells, contollers, and a transformer, some have cells with a controller that has the transformer built in. Each has it's advantages and dis-advantages.

I didn't see if you have a control system, but if you do, you'll want to look at ease of integration. If you don't currently have a control system, you may want a SWG that can control your pump run time. Also, you may want to look at ease of programming, and operation with a simple timer, or a separate timer, and what loss of power does to your settings.

Knowing what the chlorine usage of your pool is can help you pinpoint which cell size is right for your needs. An over-size cell will cost more money initially and may not have a low-enough setting to keep from over-chlorinating with-out constant re-setting. A too small cell will require longer pump run times ($)to keep up. IMHO, the perfect cell size will give you the chlorine you need in one turn of the pool.

Also keep in mind that a SWG is for regular chlorine addition, other chlorine will be needed to shock with. Best Wishes.

 

[lovingHDTV]

You could come out of the heater and go up, parallel to the existing heater input pipe, u-turn it back down and mount the cell there. I'm pretty sure that you can mount the AutoPilot horizontal, but you will want to double check that. I don't have a clue about any of the other cells.

Secondly, you could take the heater output back, towards the fence then bring it around to the front to give you some extra space also.

dave

 

[Strannik]

if you bring the heater output up as dave suggests then you'll be able to fit in pretty much any SWG

the ones that have cell outlets at 90 degree will even look good

powerpack on a 4x4 is fine, also i'd cover it from rain and sun with some sort of a hut, and imo it will be to low to be convenient

Australian units destined for USA usually run at both 110-220V

i wouldn't suggest mounting it before the heater unless your heater has titanium core

 

[New2Me]

If you go up and over, and then use a clear cell(reliance, zodiac,etc..), you can watch the "bubbles" generate, and tell all of your friends that you're making your own hydrogen! It will also be easier to get to for service, and for what you will pay, don't you want to be able to show it off?