Will Draining Water Help With Algae?

It's about the same green as the picture in my first post in this thread. I can't see the bottom of the 8 ft deep end, but I can see the bottom of the 3 ft shallow end.

Dang it! I just got the new cartridge for $120 too. I guess it's a complete waste at this point? I'm not sure I can bypass the Nature2, and I already threw away the old cartridge.

Thanks for the replies! Sounds like my best bet is to hold where I am until the drain and refill. I ended up adding 1 lb. LC tonight, so now I have 10 gallons on hand for SLAM. Fortunately, the Wal-Mart near me seems to have tons in stock, so I shouldn't have trouble getting more. I may go ahead and order another 10 now just to be safe. Even after SLAM, I may need to add about a gallon per day until I get the SWG installed in mid-May.
If you are careful to maintain the levels consistently you won’t need a whole gallon per day.
 
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It's about the same green as the picture in my first post in this thread. I can't see the bottom of the 8 ft deep end, but I can see the bottom of the 3 ft shallow end.

Dang it! I just got the new cartridge for $120 too. I guess it's a complete waste at this point? I'm not sure I can bypass the Nature2, and I already threw away the old cartridge.

Thanks for the replies! Sounds like my best bet is to hold where I am until the drain and refill. I ended up adding 1 lb. LC tonight, so now I have 10 gallons on hand for SLAM. Fortunately, the Wal-Mart near me seems to have tons in stock, so I shouldn't have trouble getting more. I may go ahead and order another 10 now just to be safe. Even after SLAM, I may need to add about a gallon per day until I get the SWG installed in mid-May.
Read the link I posted on the nature 2- there are directions on how to remove the minerals from the cartridge & also directions on how to replace it with the fusion soft (swg) & eliminate the cartridge.
 
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Read the link I posted on the nature 2- there are directions on how to remove the minerals from the cartridge & also directions on how to replace it with the fusion soft (swg) & eliminate the cartridge.
Thanks. Since I already got rid of the old mineral cartridge, sounds like my best bet is to take apart the new cartridge, remove the minerals, then reinstall the empty cartridge.

Perhaps this is why my water is still green despite FC levels being pretty high 🤔? When copper oxidizes it turns green, and since I’ve added a lot of LC recently, chlorine levels are high, thus there’s more oxidization than normal. Maybe? Just a guess.
 
Thanks. Since I already got rid of the old mineral cartridge, sounds like my best bet is to take apart the new cartridge, remove the minerals, then reinstall the empty cartridge.

Perhaps this is why my water is still green despite FC levels being pretty high 🤔? When copper oxidizes it turns green, and since I’ve added a lot of LC recently, chlorine levels are high, thus there’s more oxidization than normal. Maybe? Just a guess.
Your FC of 9ppm is not high. It’s within the normal range for your CYA level of 60ppm. If you had A CYA of 30ppm then maybe it’d be considered a bit high.
 
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Thanks. Since I already got rid of the old mineral cartridge, sounds like my best bet is to take apart the new cartridge, remove the minerals, then reinstall the empty cartridge.
Just so we know which system you have can you advise based on the article referenced by @Mdragger88


There are two models of the Nature 2 Fusion system:
  • Nature2 Fusion which has a chlorine puck feeder and a mineral cartridge
  • Nature2 Fusion Soft which has a 700 or 1400 SWG cell and a mineral cartridge
The mineral system part of this system is totally optional. We do not recommend using the minerals. If you have either Fusion system it is best to use the SWG side with an empty mineral cartridge.

This could be a possible solution to your future desire for a SWCG.
 
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Just so we know which system you have can you advise based on the article referenced by @Mdragger88


There are two models of the Nature 2 Fusion system:
  • Nature2 Fusion which has a chlorine puck feeder and a mineral cartridge
  • Nature2 Fusion Soft which has a 700 or 1400 SWG cell and a mineral cartridge
The mineral system part of this system is totally optional. We do not recommend using the minerals. If you have either Fusion system it is best to use the SWG side with an empty mineral cartridge.

This could be a possible solution to your future desire for a SWCG.
I think I have the first, because I don’t currently have a SWG cell.
 
Take a picture of what you have
Here is my pump/filter and a close up of the Nature2 system. I tried to capture the label as much as possible.
 

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Update: Since the step repair is happening in 2 days, I'm going to begin draining the pool today (mainly so I can space it out a bit and not cause any flooding, but I also think it will take quite a while). Before I drain to waste, I'll backwash for about 2 minutes or until the sight glass on the filter is clear. Then rinse a little, then set to drain and watch it go away ha. I've got my vacuum running now to hopefully mix up some of the algae in hopes that some of it'll get drained out in the waste. I plan to keep the pump running for now, but only set to main drain (no skimmer).
 
That is a different /older version of nature 2 - it’s not a fusion. It looks like you may be able to just run it without the cartridge, not sure.
Lets ask some smart guys first though-
@mknauss & @JoyfulNoise ☎️
When you put in the swg I would just totally remove that. If it is the last thing after the filter the swg you choose could go in it’s place.
 
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As long as you do not replace the cartridge, it causes no harm. Do remove it whenever you replumb.
 
Well, I started draining the pool today. I did a 5 minute back wash and 1 minute rinse first to hopefully get rid of some of the algae. It's draining pretty quickly - about 3.5 inches every 15 minutes or so. My guess is I need to drain about 30 inches total, but I'll see once I get close to the bottom of the steps. I'll probably wait until tomorrow afternoon or evening to get it as low as needed just to reduce the total time that the pump will be off (hopefully just over 24 hours).

Once I refill, first step is a water test. I'll test for FC (do I need to do CC too?), CYA, TA, CH, and PH (although I think I remember reading that PH will likely be inaccurate at this time). Once I determine the new CYA and FC levels, I'll begin the SLAM process. That reminds me... I need to order more gallons of LC just to have on hand.

If I'm missing anything, please let me know!
 
Well, I started draining the pool today. I did a 5 minute back wash and 1 minute rinse first to hopefully get rid of some of the algae. It's draining pretty quickly - about 3.5 inches every 15 minutes or so. My guess is I need to drain about 30 inches total, but I'll see once I get close to the bottom of the steps. I'll probably wait until tomorrow afternoon or evening to get it as low as needed just to reduce the total time that the pump will be off (hopefully just over 24 hours).

Once I refill, first step is a water test. I'll test for FC (do I need to do CC too?), CYA, TA, CH, and PH (although I think I remember reading that PH will likely be inaccurate at this time). Once I determine the new CYA and FC levels, I'll begin the SLAM process. That reminds me... I need to order more gallons of LC just to have on hand.

If I'm missing anything, please let me know!
Have you tested your fill water?

Also, suggest you clean the filter once the pump is off.
 
Have you tested your fill water?

Also, suggest you clean the filter once the pump is off.
Ah, no I have not tested fill water. Should I be concerned about that in GA? I think I remember being told at one point that it’s mainly well water and other sources that can have different readings.

And I honestly have no idea how to clean my sand filter ha. Is that difficult or time consuming to do?
 
You have a side mounted multi port valve so you will just remove the parts on top of the filter until you can see down in there.
 
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You have a side mounted multi port valve so you will just remove the parts on top of the filter until you can see down in there.
Thanks for sharing!
 
Ah, no I have not tested fill water. Should I be concerned about that in GA? I think I remember being told at one point that it’s mainly well water and other sources that can have different readings.
That water will be in your pool in about 4 days - why don't you test it now so you can see what is going into your pool?
pH, TA and CH are the main tests.
 
That water will be in your pool in about 4 days - why don't you test it now so you can see what is going into your pool?
pH, TA and CH are the main tests.
Ok thanks. Does that mean I can ignore the FC, CC, & CYA tests? (I don’t mind saving some of the reagent ha.)
 

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