Wife just fired my pool guy - Want to make sure I am on right track cause plan on going it myself

Jason245

Well-known member
Jul 27, 2019
72
Fort Lauderdale FL
Last weekend instead of swimming in my pool, I saw it turn green. Needless to say wife wasn't happy (which means I very unhappy) especially since I was paying someone to take care of the pool. I went and shocked it (well double shocked it) up to very high chlorine, scrubbed like a crazy person to get up all the algie dust and spent several days repeating (added some Algecide for good measure) and hosing out the filter cartridge until it looked clean.

My wife saw just how great a job I did (mistake on my part), fired the pool guy, and declared that I am the new pool guy (saving us money, and also giving me a new hobby of becoming a pool chemist).

Did a lot of research and found this site (a little late), had a Taylor Test kit ordered (the 2006 one), and today I finally went and tested everything since I figured there was no point in testing it right after a shock.

Here is the info about my pool ( this is my first time doing these tests so I may have screwed something up):
Type of pool- Plaster
Size - ~10k gallons
SWG
Water Temp - ~82 degrees (Florida with solar pool heater :))
Salt - 3200 PPM (this is in line with the SWG manual)
FC 9.6PPM (I am guessing it is still high from the shock last week which probably pushed it to over 20 PPM)
CC - 0 PPM (No indicators of any )
PH - looked like it was over 7.8 (couldn't tell difference between 7.8 and 8.0 shades of red), I ran an Acid Demand test and 2 Drops brought me to ~7.4 which I am guessing is the ideal from what I have read).
CYA ~35
TA - 60PPM
CH either 190 or 200 (I may have miss counted a drop).

My actions :

First - CYA - Using the research I found here, the Taylor book and the manual for my SWG, I put about 35OZ (which is less than Pool Math and Tylor book says to add because I have read that it is much easier to add this stuff than get it out of pool), in a Sock and placed in skimmer basket (Whoever invented that idea is probably a genius much smarter than me so I followed like a sheep on that advise). The Goal being to bring it closed to the 60-80PPM range

Chlorine - My pool guy had my generator at 100% (which I am guessing is way to high if the CYA is right), and as such, I have reverted it to 50% and going to have to re-test my chlorine levels to see what changes to make (See question below about when to do that).

Second - I added about 64 OZ baking soda to Raise TA (Pool math says i need less to get it to 80, but I am trying to push it above 80 cause My PH situation and I assume that Muric Acid will eat down some of the TA.

Third - I added 12 OZ of Muric Acid it fit in a Dixy Cup easy so I figured I would start there and see what it does (tailor drop test said to add ~22 OZ)

My manual for the SWG (For what it is worth) says that CH should be between 200 and 400, so I am considering 190 to be close enough to fine and going to leave it for now and re-test next month.

Questions I would like help with if possibe:
1. ~ how long will the CYA take to dissolve in the Sock (I don't plan on re-testing it until fully dissolved as is as it used a lot of test chemical and it seem pointless to test before then). Also should I leave pool pump on 24/7 until fully dissolved, or leave it on its normal operating schedule (which I adjusted to about 12 hours a day until I sort everything out)

2. I am guessing I should wait until CYA is fully dissolved before trying to adjust my SWG percentages but want to confirm with the collective set of pool geniuses here. If I should test it, how long to wait from today to do re-test?

3. How soon should I re-test PH and TA after adding the chemicals I did to determine how much more needs to be added/adjusted.

4. Should I worry about the CH? As of now I figure I should focus on the other ones that are out of Whack first and then deal with that problem if it is a problem at all.

Any help or advise would be much appreciated
 
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mguzzy

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2015
793
OV, CA
Wow.. ammazing first post and great job on your chem stuff. I get to be the first one to say welcome to the club. Its fun to get a convert out of the gate.

Everything looks great, especially for a first timer. The other chem gurus will fine tune things for you too.

1) this varies depending on who you talk to.. I figure 4 days in my pool, then I retest.
2) This will be a ongoing tweak.. you want to make enough chlorine the hit your levels for the amount of time you run your pump and generator. So if you lower your SWG % you have to increase your runtime to compensate. You will find what works best with your system the number of swimmers, the weather and your power bill
3) I usually don't worry about TA right away.. if I am adding lots of chem like after I open the pool I let things settle and deal with TA last unless its wildly off
4) with a plaster pool you should keep your CH in the range to prevent plaster deterioration... mine is at 250 right now... if you run the pool math app you can see the recommendations based on all your other chemistry.

you will get in a rythm with your pool, when you test it and you'll see it react to your additions. its a living breathing entity.. treat it as such. If you just took over from the pool guy have you opened your filter and checked it. I would have suggested that before adding all the chems . Sometimes its good to start out with a good backwash or filter cartridge rinse. So for now let the chem levels stabilize, then rinse. Otherwise you may be just rinsing out all the CYA you just added. You didn't mention what kinds of filter or other equipment you have. Stick that in your signature so we know what you are dealing with.

Also find your sources for cheap chems.. I don't know how much you were paying the pool guy... but this will be waaaaay cheaper.. enjoy :)

Kudos to your wife for firing the pool guy ;)

Edit: can you list the chems you or the pool guy did put in your pool? Brand names if you have them. Some Algecides have metals in them so it would be good to know if you have a metal issue as well. Same with Shocks, they can have all kinds of additives that are not really necessary. You should be able to maintain everything with your SWG, Liquid chlorine every now and then, CYA, and muriatic acid.
 
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mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
22,447
Laughlin, NV
Welcome to the forum! Great start and great advice by mguzzy!
I am concerned you are adding CYA and it is not likely you completely eradicated the algae. Do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight.
Also, adding baking soda and acid counteracts each other. Sometimes is is necessary but very rarely. If you pH is in the 7's and TA is above 50 ppm, do not mess with them.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.
 

Jason245

Well-known member
Jul 27, 2019
72
Fort Lauderdale FL
Wow.. ammazing first post and great job on your chem stuff. I get to be the first one to say welcome to the club. Its fun to get a convert out of the gate.

Everything looks great, especially for a first timer. The other chem gurus will fine tune things for you too.

1) this varies depending on who you talk to.. I figure 4 days in my pool, then I retest.
2) This will be a ongoing tweak.. you want to make enough chlorine the hit your levels for the amount of time you run your pump and generator. So if you lower your SWG % you have to increase your runtime to compensate. You will find what works best with your system and your power bill
3) I usually don't worry about TA right away.. if I am adding lots of chem like after I open the pool I let things settle and deal with TA last unless its wildly off
4) with a plaster pool you should keep your CH in the range to prevent plaster deterioration... mine is at 250 right now... if you run the pool math app you can see the recommendations based on all your other chemistry.

you will get in a rythm with your pool, when you test it and you'll see it react to your additions. its a living breathing entity.. treat it as such. If you just took over from the pool guy have you opened your filter and checked it. I would have suggested that before adding all the chems . Sometimes its good to start out with a good backwash or filter cartridge rinse. YOu didn't mention what kinds of filter or other equipment you have.

Also find your sources for cheap chems.. I don't know how much you were paying the pool guy... but this will be waaaaay cheaper.. enjoy :)

Kudos to your wife for firing the pool guy ;)
It is a filter Cartridge (looks like a cylnadric version of a car air filter).

I went and cleaned it like 3 times with a hose in last week to get Green Algie out of it in last week so that sucker is pretty clean :)
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
14,638
Bedford, TX
Jason,

What specific model and size SWCG do you have?

Cleaning the filter will not remove the algae from your pool.. You have to kill it all..

Please do yourself a favor and run the OCLT that Marty has recommend. If you pass, that is great and you can move on with other things.. If you fail the OCLT, you will need to solve that issue first before adding anymore stuff to your pool.

Run the OCLT and let us know the result. Make sure the SWCG is off during the OCLT.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

mguzzy

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2015
793
OV, CA
It is a filter Cartridge (looks like a cylnadric version of a car air filter).

I went and cleaned it like 3 times with a hose in last week to get Green Algie out of it in last week so that sucker is pretty clean :)
great.. so what kind of chems have you been adding.. not sure if you saw my edit. Can you list the chems you or the pool guy did put in your pool? Brand names if you have them. Some Algecides have metals in them so it would be good to know if you have a metal issue as well. Same with Shocks, they can have all kinds of additives that are not really necessary. You should be able to maintain everything with your SWG, Liquid chlorine every now and then, CYA, and muriatic acid.
 

Jason245

Well-known member
Jul 27, 2019
72
Fort Lauderdale FL
W
Welcome to the forum! Great start and great advice by mguzzy!
I am concerned you are adding CYA and it is not likely you completely eradicated the algae. Do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight.
Also, adding baking soda and acid counteracts each other. Sometimes is is necessary but very rarely. If you pH is in the 7's and TA is above 50 ppm, do not mess with them.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.
Thanks for the advise.

I will re-test PH later today or tomorrow and see what comes. I am hoping that since my pool has been crystal clear for 3 days and my FC is so high still I am safe (combined with whatever the heck that Algicide did). But I guess I will have to wait and see.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
22,447
Laughlin, NV
Your FC is not very high at all and algaecide does nothing to eradicate algae. Depending on which one you used, it most likely either added ammonia or copper to the pool. Neither which you wanted.

Read through SLAM Process and FC/CYA Chart
 

mguzzy

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2015
793
OV, CA
W


Thanks for the advise.

I will re-test PH later today or tomorrow and see what comes. I am hoping that since my pool has been crystal clear for 3 days and my FC is so high still I am safe (combined with whatever the heck that Algicide did). But I guess I will have to wait and see.
The cool thing about the TFP method is they don't guess. The OCLT test will tell you if there is still chlorine loss that is not attributed to the sun.. its usually algae. If so they use s particular shock procedure called a SLAM to raise the CL to a specific level until the algae is eradicated. Read up on those in the Pool School. They are big on acronyms here if you haven't noticed ;)
 
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Jason245

Well-known member
Jul 27, 2019
72
Fort Lauderdale FL
great.. so what kind of chems have you been adding.. not sure if you saw my edit. Can you list the chems you or the pool guy did put in your pool? Brand names if you have them. Some Algecides have metals in them so it would be good to know if you have a metal issue as well. Same with Shocks, they can have all kinds of additives that are not really necessary. You should be able to maintain everything with your SWG, Liquid chlorine every now and then, CYA, and muriatic acid.

Not sure about the pool guy, but:

(uneducated me) put in 2 bags of Members Mark Shock in my 10k Gallon pool (test strip I had said my chlorine was low and algie was present when I did this and per the labels and pool size, this raised my chlorine to around 20PPM or higher).

I also added Salt to the pool (Clorox salt) since that was low and the machine told me to add it.

I added the home depot Algicide MaxBlue after all the algie was visibly gone and the filter was comming up clean for a day(which now I know has copper and is not a good idea but too late now) I followed the directions for if Algie is present (which is to add about 16 OZ to a pool my size) so between that and the Double Shocking of the pool and me scrubbing the whole pool daily with a brush (even if I don't see algie which I have not for 4 days) for like 6 days I think if any Algie is alive that stuff will never die and I should instead start treating it as a dependent for tax deduction purposes)

I have a couple of bottles (from previous home owner) of muratic Acid (the 20 Baum). Stuff is a few years old, but I don't see an expiration date.

CYA is the Home Depot Stabalizer.

Baking soda is from arm and hammer...... lol.
 
Last edited:

Jason245

Well-known member
Jul 27, 2019
72
Fort Lauderdale FL
I w
Your FC is not very high at all and algaecide does nothing to eradicate algae. Depending on which one you used, it most likely either added ammonia or copper to the pool. Neither which you wanted.

Read through SLAM Process and FC/CYA Chart
i will do the test tonight and tomorrow morning.

I was just thinking that because of the sun and low CYA count and the fact that I did not have a SWG on for several days that I would have had to have started at over 20PPM and it would have worked its way down from there (south Florida is Burtal when it comes to sun and UV).
 

kimkats

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2012
41,531
Tallahassee, FL
You are going to LOVE your pool when we get done with it!! Right now I am sure it is not your fav thing but your willingness to get the test kit and follow the ideas here will pay off big time! Your water will be clearer than it ever has been with pool guy AND your wallet will be heaver that before as well!

Kim:kim:
 

Jason245

Well-known member
Jul 27, 2019
72
Fort Lauderdale FL
You are going to LOVE your pool when we get done with it!! Right now I am sure it is not your fav thing but your willingness to get the test kit and follow the ideas here will pay off big time! Your water will be clearer than it ever has been with pool guy AND your wallet will be heaver that before as well!

Kim:kim:

That is what happened... My wife saw how clear I made the pool, said it had never been that clear in 6 years, and declared me the pool guy.

sometimes it is better and less work to fail than succeed... only problem is that I don't believe in doing a half Rear job. lol
 
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mguzzy

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2015
793
OV, CA
Not sure about the pool guy, but:

(uneducated me) put in 2 bags of Members Mark Shock in my 10k Gallon pool (test strip I had said my chlorine was low and algie was present).

I also added Salt to the pool (Clorox salt) since that was low and the machine told me to add it.

I added the home depot Algicide MaxBlue after all the algie was visibly gone and the filter was comming up clean for a day(which now I know has copper and is not a good idea but too late now) I followed the directions for if Algie is present (which is to add about 16 OZ to a pool my size) so between that and the Double Shocking of the pool and me scrubbing the whole pool daily with a brush (even if I don't see algie which I have not for 4 days) for like 6 days I think if any Algie is alive that stuff will never die and I should instead start treating it as a dependent for tax deduction purposes)

I have a couple of bottles (from previous home owner) of muratic Acid (the 20 Baum). Stuff is a few years old, but I don't see an expiration date.

CYA is the Home Depot Stabalizer.

Baking soda is from arm and hammer...... lol.
Thanks for the list
Don't use Clorox salt it appears to have iron in it and will stain pools.. it stained mine. Use Mortons or Diamond Crystal. water softener salt can be used too.
Muriatic acid doesn't degrade so you are good on that. My local mom and pop pool store does refillable bottles for Cl and MA. That's the cheapest price I found for MA
Arm & Hammers from the baking or laundry aisle is where its at!
I get CYA in 25# boxes from Amazon (PureTech)
I get Calcium Chloride in 25# boxes from Amazon (PureTech) as well
I get liquid 10% Chlorine when I need it from Walmart or my Pool store has 12.5%.. but I get the one that has the cheaper cost per % as it varies. I hear Home Depot has a good price on the HDX stuff. But I buy it as I need it since it does degrade. Even though I have a SWG as well I will use liquid chlorine as a kicker when it gets hot or I expect a lot of swimmers for a party, but I just buy as I need it.

Might want to get a test for metals in your pool.
 
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Jason245

Well-known member
Jul 27, 2019
72
Fort Lauderdale FL
Thanks for the list
Don't use Clorox salt it appears to have iron in it and will stain pools.. it stained mine. Use Mortons or Diamond Crystal. water softener salt can be used too.
Muriatic acid doesn't degrade so you are good on that.
Arm & Hammers from the baking or laundry aisle is where its at!
I get CYA in 25# boxes from Amazon (PureTech)
I get Calcium Chloride in 25# boxes from Amazon (PureTech) as well
I get liquid 10% Chlorine when I need it from Walmart or my Pool store has 12.5%.. but I get the one that has the cheaper cost per % as it varies. I hear Home Depot has a good price on the HDX stuff. But I buy it as I need it since it does degrade. Even though I have a salt pool as well I will use liquid chlorine as a kicker when it gets hot or I expect a lot of swimmers for a party, but I just buy as I need it.

Might what to get a test for metals in your pool.
Thanks, I will look into a Metal Test at some point after I get through this hurdle.

Would water Softner salt decrease my Calcium?

I am a little ignorant
 

mguzzy

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2015
793
OV, CA
Thanks, I will look into a Metal Test at some point after I get through this hurdle.

Would water Softner salt decrease my Calcium?

I am a little ignorant
no.. get the stuff that has no additives. It does not add calcium. its just salt. And you only need to add salt in the beginning of the year. As the pool evaporates the salt stays in. The only time you should have to re calibrate your salt is if you had to drain water from you pool for some reason and added it back in. for example I drain my pool through the winter to offset the winter rains.. then I need to add salt before I open it for the season.
In the Pool School area there is a list of Recommended Chems and Non Recommended Chems. They generally keep that list up to date.
 
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Jason245

Well-known member
Jul 27, 2019
72
Fort Lauderdale FL
no.. get the stuff that has no additives. It does not add calcium. its just salt. And you only need to add salt in the beginning of the year. As the pool evaporates the salt stays in. The only time you should have to re calibrate your salt is if you had to drain water from you pool for some reason and added it back in. for example I drain my pool through the winter to offset the winter rains.. then I need to add salt before I open it for the season.
In the Pool School area there is a list of Recommended Chems and Non Recommended Chems. They generally keep that list up to date.
My season is all year round... lol.. so it is an adventure...
 

mguzzy

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2015
793
OV, CA
Yeah.. I just noticed you are in Florida.. it rains all the time there. I used to live in Orlando as a kid.... Hey don't forget to put your equipment specs in your signature. The forum gurus use that to help make recommendations when you ask for help.
 
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