Trouble Free Pool -
PH
7.6-7.8TOTAL ALKALINITY
60-80
CALCIUM
350-550CYANURIC ACID
70-80My SWG manual says
ph 7.2 - 7.6
cya - 60 - 80
TA = 80 - 120
CH - 200 - 400
FC - 1 -3
Which source should I follow?
Which source should I follow for ideal water levels? TFP or instruction manual for equipment.
- Thread starter cluelesspoolfool
- Start date
TOTAL ALKALINITY
60-80
My SWG manual says
ph 7.2 - 7.6
cya - 60 - 80
TA = 80 - 120
CH - 200 - 400
FC - 1 -3
Which source should I follow?
I recommend a good test kit like the TF-Pro-Salt and obviously, we are going to believe in our recommended ranges.
You have to decide what you feel best about doing.
No one is going to tell you what to do.
tftestkits.net
You have to decide what you feel best about doing.
No one is going to tell you what to do.
TF-Pro Salt
For real ? That's like waltzing into any stadium and asking fans if you should root for the home team, or somebody else.
We're as biased here as they'd be.
If you'd like to give TFP a whirl, we'll guide you on the cheap and easy with spectacular results. If you'd like to go the typical pool store / industry way, do as they say. One of us has nothing to sell you but goodwill.
Here's the reason why you might like to go full TFP : How Clear is TFP Clear?
We do everything for a reason unlike the industry that does it because they've always done it that way. The higher TA for example was to combat regular tab use. Change to a SWG and they don't account for that and reccomend their usual higher TA. That'll constantly pull your PH up and be rather annoying, but the pool store has lots of acid to sell you for it.
It's either ignorant advice from them, or they know exactly what it will do, and advise it to sell you overpriced chemicals like baking soda in a fancy bag.
For SWGs we want a high 7 PH with a low but in range TA and the PH will be more stable.
We start at 70 CYA for SWGs, some warmer climates may need more when it gets nuclear out. You'll know when the FC isn't holding that it's time to bump the CYA by 10.
CH depends on your pool type, location and fill water.
FC needs to remain free and clear above min at all times per your CYA level. You lose FC daily to the sun with less loss now and the fall and the most loss mid summer. If you're losing 4ppm a day in July, you need to produce at least 4ppm per day with the SWG, *on top of* starting well above min so it can fluctuate. SWGs are slow to add FC and the sun will outpace them by a mile mid day.
We're as biased here as they'd be.
If you'd like to give TFP a whirl, we'll guide you on the cheap and easy with spectacular results. If you'd like to go the typical pool store / industry way, do as they say. One of us has nothing to sell you but goodwill.
Here's the reason why you might like to go full TFP : How Clear is TFP Clear?
We do everything for a reason unlike the industry that does it because they've always done it that way. The higher TA for example was to combat regular tab use. Change to a SWG and they don't account for that and reccomend their usual higher TA. That'll constantly pull your PH up and be rather annoying, but the pool store has lots of acid to sell you for it.
It's either ignorant advice from them, or they know exactly what it will do, and advise it to sell you overpriced chemicals like baking soda in a fancy bag. For SWGs we want a high 7 PH with a low but in range TA and the PH will be more stable.
We start at 70 CYA for SWGs, some warmer climates may need more when it gets nuclear out. You'll know when the FC isn't holding that it's time to bump the CYA by 10.
CH depends on your pool type, location and fill water.
FC needs to remain free and clear above min at all times per your CYA level. You lose FC daily to the sun with less loss now and the fall and the most loss mid summer. If you're losing 4ppm a day in July, you need to produce at least 4ppm per day with the SWG, *on top of* starting well above min so it can fluctuate. SWGs are slow to add FC and the sun will outpace them by a mile mid day.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,386
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You will eventually end up with TFP after you get frustrated trying to keep a pool with the manufacturers water chemistry from the last century.
We provide a lot of explanations for our recommendations and there are many people who are very successful.
The equipment manufacturers just post information that was developed in the 1950s and they just expect you to take your water sample to your local shop and buy whatever expensive concoctions the shop tells you to buy.
If you get algae at 1 to 3 ppn FC, they expect you to buy algaecide.
At the end of the day, you have to decide if you want to follow the pool stores or what this site teaches.
The equipment manufacturers just post information that was developed in the 1950s and they just expect you to take your water sample to your local shop and buy whatever expensive concoctions the shop tells you to buy.
If you get algae at 1 to 3 ppn FC, they expect you to buy algaecide.
At the end of the day, you have to decide if you want to follow the pool stores or what this site teaches.
Thank you, this is very helpful. Sorry maybe I worded the question wrong, I was trying to understand why the discrepancy existed between the manual and the TFP levels - like maybe there was a special reason the manufacturer wanted the PH that low.For real ? That's like waltzing into any stadium and asking fans if you should root for the home team, or somebody else.
We're as biased here as they'd be.
If you'd like to give TFP a whirl, we'll guide you on the cheap and easy with spectacular results. If you'd like to go the typical pool store / industry way, do as they say. One of us has nothing to sell you but goodwill.
Here's the reason why you might like to go full TFP : How Clear is TFP Clear?
We do everything for a reason unlike the industry that does it because they've always done it that way. The higher TA for example was to combat regular tab use. Change to a SWG and they don't account for that and reccomend their usual higher TA. That'll constantly pull your PH up and be rather annoying, but the pool store has lots of acid to sell you for it.
For SWGs we want a high 7 PH with a low but in range TA and the PH will be more stable.
We start at 70 CYA for SWGs, some warmer climates may need more when it gets nuclear out. You'll know when the FC isn't holding that it's time to bump the CYA by 10.
CH depends on your pool type, location and fill water.
FC needs to remain free and clear above min at all times per your CYA level. You lose FC daily to the sun with less loss now and the fall and the most loss mid summer. If you're losing 4ppm a day in July, you need to produce at least 4ppm per day with the SWG, *on top of* starting well above min so it can fluctuate. SWGs are slow to add FC and the sun will outpace them by a mile mid day.
View attachment 554199
Call the manufacturer and tell them you have algae with their 1 to 3 ppm of FC and ask them why and what you should do.
Ask the manufacturer why they have their recommendations where they have them.
Ask the manufacturer why they have their recommendations where they have them.
Because they are expecting it to remain a low 7 from all those tabs they have you using, (tabs are stabilized with CYA...... an acid), which is their ages old advice. Again, you'll be using a SWG but they don't understand the difference.
