Which ph test do I believe?

diy_darryl

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2014
52
St. Louis, Missouri
Just opened pool last weekend and had some iron stains. Being impatient, brought ph and chlorine to zero and put in a pound of ascorbic acid that we had leftover even though we were out of Jacks Purple. Stain cleared of course, got stuff on order.
Supplies arrived and of course stains returning by now. No big deal going to start over.
Problem is, my K-1000 ph test is showing shy-high ph Maxed out in color =8+, but my test strip shows ultra low like 6.2 which could be believable due to the ascorbic acid that was in the pool.

Which one do I believe?

Heading out to buy Walmart’s cheap drop test and their test strips and see if anything agrees. I have to stock up on bleach anyway but I have to know for sure my ph is below 7.2 to treat for iron stain. Want to get it right the first time and move on.
 
Save your money and stop buying test strips. Buy a good test kit and new reagents every year.
 
I have the test kits recommended by this forum from TFTESTKITS but as you know the big one doesn’t do ph so I also have the K-1000 recommended here. I use those all the time but I stuck a test strip in also which led to my confusion.
So..... I DO have the good test kits recommended here so why the condenscending non-answer?

And my R-0014 reagent is stored ina cool place all the time and is not yet expired but not new this year. Should it not be good until the expiration date or do you sell it, hence I should replace it every year?

And I am heading to Walmart because I need bleach and I live in the country so trying to just buy something to get a test that agrees with another one. No pool stores near me.
 
If tour tf100 doesn't include the oh kit, then there must be an issue somewhere. How long ago did you buy it? It's supposed to.....

The tests included in the TF-100* are:

Chlorine Test (OTO) - Very dependable for detecting the presence of chlorine in your pool - normally used daily.* The most common cause of pool water problems is lack of chlorine.
*pH Test - This important parameter of your pool water should be tested frequently.* Too high and you can form calcium deposits (scaling).* Too low and*you can damage your equipment.
*Chlorine Test (FAS/DPD) -*This test separates the TF-100 from cheaper "bargain" kits*that*simply do not*have this test.* Measuring chlorine*VERY* precisely, even up to 50ppm+, this test is indispensable to a pool owner, especially when correcting pool water problems.
*Combined Chloramines Test - CC's are a good indicator of the need to shock your pool.* The TF-100 can measure CC's down*to*.2ppm.* Cheaper*kits will not have the CC's test.
*Calcium Hardness Test - Measure the CH of your pool water and your fill water as well.* This allows you to control and manage this important parameter.* Excessive calcium contributes*to scaling and too little*can damage your plaster.
*Total Alkalinity Test - TA buffers your pH.* While there is a lot of latitude with this parameter, close monitoring (testing) several times during the summer is essential.
*Cyanuric Acid Test - CYA protects your chlorine from sunlight.* It must be kept at the proper level to be effective.* Again, the cheaper kits do not perform this*essential*test
 
The K-1000 (which is included in the tf-100) is the test to believe based on what you are telling us.

AJW22 was being candid and NOT condescending when he suggested you save your money and not buy any strips.......they are simply a waste of money if you have a good phenol red (Like the k-1000) test.
 
Yes the strips while fast and convenient are at best not nearly as precise as FAS/DPD and reagents and strips only provide a wide possible result range allowing you no way to make accurate changes.
At their worst I found the strips to be wildly inaccurate for CYA and pH.
 

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