I am so confused. We have an above ground pool with a sand filter and swg. We filled it for the first time this summer and were told to go ahead and add the salt and then adjust the other levels as necessary once we ran the swg on one cycle. Well first of all our swg is a year old and we keep getting a low salt reading even though I checked the level and it's not low but my cya is 0. What do I do next? I have stabilizer but I have no clue how to add it to the pool. I see people use a sock in the skimmer but I don't have an in pool skimmer just the one before the water reaches the sand. Do I put it in there? Also am I going to need to refill the sock multiple times because according to the bag of stabilizer I'm going to need 3lbs of this stuff? Again I'm so lost any help would be appreciated!!
Where to start?
- Thread starter angelgirlnv
- Start date
I have had great luck with putting the CYA in a sock tied to a broom handle and hung over the edge in front of a return.
Just stick a rock on the "broomy" part of it so that it doesn't move. I would add no more than 2lb at a time and retest CYA 24 hours after it dissolves. Make sure you don't backwash your filter for several days because otherwise, you might just be pumping that added CYA right out into your yard or the sewer. No problem using liquid chlorine until your salt cell starts working. Just assume that any CYA you add is already in the water, and keep your Free Chlorine levels appropriate based on the CYA/FC chart in Pool School so that you don't get algae. This is particularly important when raising your CYA for your salt cell, because if you get a bloom AFTER you add the CYA, you are going to need WAY more chlorine to do a SLAM should it become necessary. Once the cell starts operating, test several times a day and add liquid chlorine as necessary if you undershoot your levels, until you get your salt cell "dialed in". Once you do that, you will have a far more relaxing time of it. And above all, do NOT use the "dry acid" powder to lower your pH with a salt cell .. it will corrode those expensive platinum / rubidium electrodes.. use Muriatic Acid to lower your pH! I would highly recommend that you get your salt level known and the cell functioning before you raise your CYA levels high enough ( > 60ppm ) that it makes a SLAM difficult.
How are you testing your salt levels? With a test kit from Taylor or equivalent? Are you 100% sure you have enough salt for the device to function? Possibly, you just need to clean the electrodes and / or the salt sensor. More likely, you are actually in reality low on salt. If you end up with a little too much salt, worst-case scenario is it will make your pool water a little bit more "tasty" LOL
PS: do NOT use Clorox brand pool salt... many people have reported that it is contaminated with iron and will cause staining.
Just stick a rock on the "broomy" part of it so that it doesn't move. I would add no more than 2lb at a time and retest CYA 24 hours after it dissolves. Make sure you don't backwash your filter for several days because otherwise, you might just be pumping that added CYA right out into your yard or the sewer. No problem using liquid chlorine until your salt cell starts working. Just assume that any CYA you add is already in the water, and keep your Free Chlorine levels appropriate based on the CYA/FC chart in Pool School so that you don't get algae. This is particularly important when raising your CYA for your salt cell, because if you get a bloom AFTER you add the CYA, you are going to need WAY more chlorine to do a SLAM should it become necessary. Once the cell starts operating, test several times a day and add liquid chlorine as necessary if you undershoot your levels, until you get your salt cell "dialed in". Once you do that, you will have a far more relaxing time of it. And above all, do NOT use the "dry acid" powder to lower your pH with a salt cell .. it will corrode those expensive platinum / rubidium electrodes.. use Muriatic Acid to lower your pH! I would highly recommend that you get your salt level known and the cell functioning before you raise your CYA levels high enough ( > 60ppm ) that it makes a SLAM difficult.
How are you testing your salt levels? With a test kit from Taylor or equivalent? Are you 100% sure you have enough salt for the device to function? Possibly, you just need to clean the electrodes and / or the salt sensor. More likely, you are actually in reality low on salt. If you end up with a little too much salt, worst-case scenario is it will make your pool water a little bit more "tasty" LOL
PS: do NOT use Clorox brand pool salt... many people have reported that it is contaminated with iron and will cause staining.
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Hello and Welcome to TFP!
Did you drain and refill the water since March?
How are you testing the water?
What is the water temperature?
Did you drain and refill the water since March?
How are you testing the water?
What is the water temperature?
If you fill out your TFP profile signature with your pool size in gallons and what type of equipment you have, as well as posting a full set of test results from your own testing, the folks here will be better able to help you!
So we are testing using the test strips. I know they aren't reliable but it's all we've got for now until we can afford the more expensive test kits. Our pool is 22'x52" round so from what I can fine approx 10,450 gallons. Last year it took 5 bags of salt and was completely fine. This year were so far at 7 bags of salt (Morton brand). My salt test strip is reading 3660. Both last year and this year salt was added to fresh water. I've cleaned the salt cell 3x now with vinegar and I don't see anything on it at all and I'm still getting low salt warning. If I reset the GFCI the swg will run for about 5 hours and then the low salt light kicks back on. Should I try adding even more salt? Thank you for the advice on how to add the stabilizer! At this point I'm ready to call it and throw the whole salt system out the window!
Yes we drained, scrubbed and refilled due to an overwhelming amount of backswimmers and branches. Currently the only method of testing we have is the strips which I know aren't accurate but I figure its better than nothing. Water temp is currently sitting at 70 degrees.
Try unplugging or tripping the breaker on the salt cell and "reboot" it...see if that helps. If it's only a year old, its probably still under warranty.
Tried that runs for a few hours then get the same low salt light. Do you think we actually need more salt or does it sound like more of a defective machine?
What were the results of the salt test and who / how was the test done?
Going by the cell isn't accurate enough. There have been instances where someone has added salt because the cell said "low salt," but when the salt was tested, it was really high. Low salt can mean the cell is faulty. Again, an actual test is needed. If less than a year old, contact the mfg.
Using the Clorox salt test strips it's reading at 3660. We live in rural Nevada so the closest pool store is at least an hour away. I'm going to order a Taylor test but can you tell me if the k-2005 salt test kit would work I don't really have a lot of extra $$ to spend
It sounds like there is an issue with the SWG or the controller. I’m not a SWG expert, so I’ve reached the extent I can help here. I’d reach out to the mfg and see if they can replace under warranty.
Let's hope then that the manufacturer will send you a free replacement!Using the Clorox salt test strips it's reading at 3660. We live in rural Nevada so the closest pool store is at least an hour away. I'm going to order a Taylor test but can you tell me if the k-2005 salt test kit would work I don't really have a lot of extra $$ to spend
- May 3, 2014
- 62,672
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You need the K2006C if you are getting the Taylor kit. Plus the K1766 salt kit. You might find the TFPro Salt from TFTestkits.net a better value as it will include a SmartStir device for about the same price as the other two kits combined.