So i thought I was done with slamming as my pool is clear (except for some dirt and leaves on deep end bottom). I had passed the OCLT and my CC reading is 0.5 or less. The FC reading is 24 and had dropped 3 FC over the past 24 hours which may just be my normal FC dsily loss especially since my CYA is at 40 which is less than the recommended reading for a SWG pool. My concern is when i run my pool sweep in the deep end it makes large brown clouds. I am not sure if this is the dirt being swirled up or remaining algae. Should I continue to SLAM?
When will slamming be Done?
- Thread starter George Whitzel
- Start date
Re: When will slamming be Done?
Three criteria for ending SLAM:
pass OCLT
CC of .5 or less
Crstal clear water with no signs of algae, dead or alive
You may have ended your SLAM too soon. I wouldn’t even bother with OCLT until that water is clear as glass, meaning you can see if a quarter on the bottom is heads or tails!
Three criteria for ending SLAM:
pass OCLT
CC of .5 or less
Crstal clear water with no signs of algae, dead or alive
You may have ended your SLAM too soon. I wouldn’t even bother with OCLT until that water is clear as glass, meaning you can see if a quarter on the bottom is heads or tails!
Re: When will slamming be Done?
I can clearly see the drain cover but haven't dropped a quarter in the pool. I really think it is dirt not algae as i have dogs that dig near the pool and kick dirt around. I planned to have a pool party tommorrow to celebrate my sons birthday and afraid If i kick add more LC to raise the FC to a level of FC 30 we may not be able to safely swim in the pool.
I can clearly see the drain cover but haven't dropped a quarter in the pool. I really think it is dirt not algae as i have dogs that dig near the pool and kick dirt around. I planned to have a pool party tommorrow to celebrate my sons birthday and afraid If i kick add more LC to raise the FC to a level of FC 30 we may not be able to safely swim in the pool.
Re: When will slamming be Done?
You can swim safely up to your SLAM level, just don’t go over it.
You can swim safely up to your SLAM level, just don’t go over it.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,749
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Re: When will slamming be Done?
If your dogs are putting a significant amount of dirt in the pool from your yard, you will struggle to not have larger than normal chlorine loss.
If your dogs are putting a significant amount of dirt in the pool from your yard, you will struggle to not have larger than normal chlorine loss.
Re: When will slamming be Done?
Thanks Marty and Kelly for your replies.
- - - Updated - - -
When will i be able to obtain reliable PH readings again?
Thanks Marty and Kelly for your replies.
- - - Updated - - -
When will i be able to obtain reliable PH readings again?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,749
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Re: When will slamming be Done?
So i had algae and used the SLAM method to clear up but it took about 5 days to totally clear it. I did 10 OCLT tests during that time and used up all of my reagent for FC testing in my Taylor test kit. I really wanted to run one more test before increasing my CYA up to 80. I went to Leslies as I had seen before that they sold TAylor reagents. My Taylor FC tesing instructions call for using DFD powder (R-0871) to turn the sample pink color and then drops of R-0871 (Titraing) to turn sample to clear. Leslies did not have these but they sales person says they use a Taylor kit and use both something called DPD-1 and DPD-2 to perfer their testing. He was trying to convince me to buy them and do the same. I walked out without buying. Did i do the right thing?
So i had algae and used the SLAM method to clear up but it took about 5 days to totally clear it. I did 10 OCLT tests during that time and used up all of my reagent for FC testing in my Taylor test kit. I really wanted to run one more test before increasing my CYA up to 80. I went to Leslies as I had seen before that they sold TAylor reagents. My Taylor FC tesing instructions call for using DFD powder (R-0871) to turn the sample pink color and then drops of R-0871 (Titraing) to turn sample to clear. Leslies did not have these but they sales person says they use a Taylor kit and use both something called DPD-1 and DPD-2 to perfer their testing. He was trying to convince me to buy them and do the same. I walked out without buying. Did i do the right thing?
Re: When will slamming be Done?
So i have continue to SLAm for about 2 weeks now. My pool is clear (in fact I can see the screws on the main drain covers clearly) and my CC has mesured below 0.5 for the past week. The reason I have continued is because I can not get a OCLT to read less than 1.5 -2.0 diffrence. It used to be quite a difference at the start but for the pat 5 days has stayed in this 1.5 to 2.0 range. Trying to figure out why and whether i should stop the SLAM. Please advise.
So i have continue to SLAm for about 2 weeks now. My pool is clear (in fact I can see the screws on the main drain covers clearly) and my CC has mesured below 0.5 for the past week. The reason I have continued is because I can not get a OCLT to read less than 1.5 -2.0 diffrence. It used to be quite a difference at the start but for the pat 5 days has stayed in this 1.5 to 2.0 range. Trying to figure out why and whether i should stop the SLAM. Please advise.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,238
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Re: When will slamming be Done?
Have you checked for gunk behind any lights? Do you have any handrails or ladders in contact with the pool water?
Algae loves to hide behind the lights and in voids in ladders. Also, check the skimmer weir doors - especially on the back sides.
Have you checked for gunk behind any lights? Do you have any handrails or ladders in contact with the pool water?
Algae loves to hide behind the lights and in voids in ladders. Also, check the skimmer weir doors - especially on the back sides.
I have check and cleaned the skimmer entrance and Weir gate. I do not have any ladders or other metal devices in the pool. I do have a large single pool light that has a metal ring around it that protudes slighly from the pool wall. When I brush the walls i brush ovef znd around this light as well.
I am getting some debris in the sock that I installed in the skimmer basket. Also i am geeting debris in the pool sweep catch net. I do have 2 dogs that live out by the pool and do digging near the pool. Could it be this non algae debris that is causing the problem?
I am getting some debris in the sock that I installed in the skimmer basket. Also i am geeting debris in the pool sweep catch net. I do have 2 dogs that live out by the pool and do digging near the pool. Could it be this non algae debris that is causing the problem?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,749
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
See post #5.
The light niche needs to be opened up. Algae is normally found inside of them.
Ok is the light removal a difficult thing to do? Where can I find instructions for removing and re-installing the light. Being under water might be difficult. Do I need too drain pool to just below the light level. Hate to do so but I and worry about my eyes with a current FC of 25.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,238
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
There is usually one phillips screw at the top. Remove that screw, tilt the top outward and lift the entire light housing upward. There should be enough cord coiled behind the housing to allow the light housing to be put on the deck. You can just let the light float in the pool. Scrub the housing and the niche mounted in the wall.
EDIT:
You may be able to reach the screw and light without getting in the pool. And no, you don't need to drain any water to remove the light.
It's safe to get in the pool as long as FC is between minimum and SLAM level based on your CYA - [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] - and you can see the bottom in the deep end.
EDIT:
You may be able to reach the screw and light without getting in the pool. And no, you don't need to drain any water to remove the light.
It's safe to get in the pool as long as FC is between minimum and SLAM level based on your CYA - [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] - and you can see the bottom in the deep end.
Proavia: thanks for the information on pool light removal.
My FC this morning was 25 with no drop from last nights reading (passed OCLT) so I may not have to remove the light afterall unless you think it is stiill a good idea.
My FC this morning was 25 with no drop from last nights reading (passed OCLT) so I may not have to remove the light afterall unless you think it is stiill a good idea.
If you think the SLAM is down, let the FC drop some. But I'd still want to get in there and look behind that light. Did you see the pictures in the link I posted above? Tip: have the vacuum hose connected and running and nearby when you pull the light, in case you need to vacuum up a bunch of sludge fast.
borjis
LifeTime Supporter
That is possible.
I did not remove the light fixture from my previous pool when I had mustard algae and first SLAM.
But I did start the slam at the first sign of the algae near the steps in the shallow end. Not sure if that made a difference.
I'd say if you pass the OCLT 3 days in a row, you are good to go.
And if you can, contain the dogs from dumping dirt in for those 3 days so it doesn't throw the test off.
I did not remove the light fixture from my previous pool when I had mustard algae and first SLAM.
But I did start the slam at the first sign of the algae near the steps in the shallow end. Not sure if that made a difference.
I'd say if you pass the OCLT 3 days in a row, you are good to go.
And if you can, contain the dogs from dumping dirt in for those 3 days so it doesn't throw the test off.