What to fix first?
- Thread starter wowens
- Start date
Paid pool guys to come tell me the bolts were stripped so cannot repair pump. If they take extreme measures to remove bolts it will damage housing and have to replace anyway. So now I'm shopping for a pump.
Suggestions? Recommendations?
See, I told you anything I go to fix leads to another problem.
No circulation for a week and just TODAY in a matter of hours pool turned black.
:,(
Suggestions? Recommendations?
See, I told you anything I go to fix leads to another problem.
No circulation for a week and just TODAY in a matter of hours pool turned black.
:,(
iam4iam
LifeTime Supporter
If the circuit breaker inside the house that controls the pump is a double then you have 230.
Capped off cleaner line. Pump now only from pool skimmer. New pump 3/4 HP Hayward MaxFlo. Back to square one. Circulation. Can not get vacuum to maintain suction.
Hesitant to start pouring chemicals in again. Will test water when back home today. Still can't see beyond 5 inches.
Hesitant to start pouring chemicals in again. Will test water when back home today. Still can't see beyond 5 inches.
Are you seeing any air bubbles in the pump strainer basket? If so you still have a suction side leak.
Took a bit but no air bubbles now. Pump sounds different. A sort of rhythmic beat like whir whir whir instead of just a steady hum.
Tested ph and chlorine. 7.2 and zero respectively so I didn't bother testing other until chlorine up. Off to add some gallons.
Tested ph and chlorine. 7.2 and zero respectively so I didn't bother testing other until chlorine up. Off to add some gallons.
Paid pool guys to come tell me the bolts were stripped so cannot repair pump. If they take extreme measures to remove bolts it will damage housing and have to replace anyway. So now I'm shopping for a pump.
Suggestions? Recommendations?
See, I told you anything I go to fix leads to another problem.
No circulation for a week and just TODAY in a matter of hours pool turned black.
did the PB tell you what was wrong with the bolts? was it the head of the bolt that was stripped or was it the threads that were stripped?
If it was the head of the bolts, with a little finesse one can either use a wide rubber band (covers the head of the bolt) and then place a socket of the size that will fit tightly over the rubber band and the bolt. there is also a socket that has a bunch of pins inside it that will form to the head of the bolt no matter how bad.
if the threads are stripped you can cut the head of the bolt off with a dremel and a metal cutting wheel then you should be able to remove what ever the head of the bolts was holding on, after the lid/item is removed there should be enough shaft left of the bolt to grab onto with a pair of vise grip pliers to remove the bolt (this method can also be used if the head of the bolts are stripped).
- - - Updated - - -
is there still stead flow from the pool return?
Each of four bolts had different stripped issue. One thread, one head, one non reachable. There was zero suction or return due to air in line we replaced.
Now new pump, capped off cleaner line so only suction is through pool skimmer. Still not enough to vacuum using vacuum cap over basket. Snaked line as far as I could. Currently 10 psi.
SLAMMING pool even with low psi and not vacuuming.
iam4iam
LifeTime Supporter
Spent the afternoon at wowens' house. Filter pressure 15 PSI with a few bubbles in visible through pump lid when I arrived, so first thing was backwash. Clean pressure 10 PSI.* Water is still just very "cloudy," not green, but you can only see maybe 8" below surface! She's been pulling water through vacuum at bottom of pool thinking there is a plethora of dead algae on the bottom of the pool from the mega dose of cal-hypo 75 by pool guy a few weeks ago. I suggested the pump was having difficulty completely priming via vacuum, since there were no bubbles at all within a few minutes of removing vacuum hose from skimmer, and that she may be better served just brushing for now until she can see the bottom--which may be a while.
Total of 10 lbs of CYA has been added since opening pool over a month ago. First 4 lbs added weeks ago. CYA test today showed near zero. (Water barely cloudy with full cylinder. Black dot still clearly visible.) Pool store measured at 20 ppm a few weeks ago (before wowens bought a test kit). Where did it go??? Anyway, added 6 lbs today, which should put it around 30 ppm. That took pH down to 6.8, and TA to 80. Adjusted with borax and washing soda. Last reading of pH was 7.3 and TA was 120. No FC when I arrived. Added 2 gal.** 8.25% bleach. FC back to 0 in an hour! Continued to "SLAM" harder until FC maintained near 20 for a few hours (with no further additions), which is when I left. Pressure had gone from 10-14 PSI in about 8 hours. Told her to backwash at 15 and keep checking FC level. I told her rapid pressure rise was GOOD NEWS (evidence of filter clearing the water)!
Just got word that she had to leave abruptly. Upon returning, FC=13 and 16 PSI. She backwashed (pressure back to 10 PSI) and added 2 gal* bleach (which should raise FC to about 21 ppm) and went to bed. I reminded her to take another reading first thing in the morning!
A few questions:
1) Is 10 PSI normal for a clean filter? (See asterisk below.)
2) Did I steer her correctly regarding vacuum? (Save until water is clearer. Just brush for now.)
3) Why is water THICK cloudy (instead of green)? (Water is still about the same color as second picture in post #15 of this thread, even though it sat for a week with no circulation! New pump installed just 3 days ago.)
*10 PSI seems low, but perhaps only because my clean pressure is 12.5 PSI. She has long been concerned that flow between skimmer and pump is restricted. Indeed, suction in hole at bottom of skimmer does not seem to be as strong as mine, but that is subjective and non-quantifiable. I told her even if her suspicion is correct, she still appears to have sufficient water flow, since the pump will prime and the flow at returns is strong.
**I am referring to the 121? oz jug as a gallon.
Total of 10 lbs of CYA has been added since opening pool over a month ago. First 4 lbs added weeks ago. CYA test today showed near zero. (Water barely cloudy with full cylinder. Black dot still clearly visible.) Pool store measured at 20 ppm a few weeks ago (before wowens bought a test kit). Where did it go??? Anyway, added 6 lbs today, which should put it around 30 ppm. That took pH down to 6.8, and TA to 80. Adjusted with borax and washing soda. Last reading of pH was 7.3 and TA was 120. No FC when I arrived. Added 2 gal.** 8.25% bleach. FC back to 0 in an hour! Continued to "SLAM" harder until FC maintained near 20 for a few hours (with no further additions), which is when I left. Pressure had gone from 10-14 PSI in about 8 hours. Told her to backwash at 15 and keep checking FC level. I told her rapid pressure rise was GOOD NEWS (evidence of filter clearing the water)!
Just got word that she had to leave abruptly. Upon returning, FC=13 and 16 PSI. She backwashed (pressure back to 10 PSI) and added 2 gal* bleach (which should raise FC to about 21 ppm) and went to bed. I reminded her to take another reading first thing in the morning!
A few questions:
1) Is 10 PSI normal for a clean filter? (See asterisk below.)
2) Did I steer her correctly regarding vacuum? (Save until water is clearer. Just brush for now.)
3) Why is water THICK cloudy (instead of green)? (Water is still about the same color as second picture in post #15 of this thread, even though it sat for a week with no circulation! New pump installed just 3 days ago.)
*10 PSI seems low, but perhaps only because my clean pressure is 12.5 PSI. She has long been concerned that flow between skimmer and pump is restricted. Indeed, suction in hole at bottom of skimmer does not seem to be as strong as mine, but that is subjective and non-quantifiable. I told her even if her suspicion is correct, she still appears to have sufficient water flow, since the pump will prime and the flow at returns is strong.
**I am referring to the 121? oz jug as a gallon.
iam4iam
LifeTime Supporter
Update: OCL around 2 ppm, (20* down to 18), but pressure still 10 psi! I expected pressure to have increased similarly to the increase we say yesterday? Since it is too soon to expect a noticeable difference in water clarity, pressure increase is the only evidence I know of that the filter is actually working to clarify the water!
Question (in addition to questions in previous post): Should we be concerned about the lack of pressure increase in 2/3 the time that pressure increased from 10 to 16 yesterday?
*Miscalulated last night's addition. Each jug is about +3.5 ppm for her 23,000 gal pool.
Question (in addition to questions in previous post): Should we be concerned about the lack of pressure increase in 2/3 the time that pressure increased from 10 to 16 yesterday?
*Miscalulated last night's addition. Each jug is about +3.5 ppm for her 23,000 gal pool.
You may have been more actively scrubbing and stirring up the water yesterday,so I would not worry too much yet about the lack of pressure rise, if it does continue, you may want to add for DE as a filter aid to speed up clearing see Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter
10:30 pm
Cya 35 and climbing---cringe
Fc 22 added 6 gallons today to keep above 16 --2 at a time throughout day as fc fell
Took all day psi 10 To get to 14. Back washed.
When do you call uncle? I feel so stupid pouring $$$after bleach into pool when laptop crashed and phone crashed. We have other needs yet stopping pool makes it worse later but I'm not seeing improvement. I think I'm going against TFP and replace the sand. I do not know it's history.
Cya 35 and climbing---cringe
Fc 22 added 6 gallons today to keep above 16 --2 at a time throughout day as fc fell
Took all day psi 10 To get to 14. Back washed.
When do you call uncle? I feel so stupid pouring $$$after bleach into pool when laptop crashed and phone crashed. We have other needs yet stopping pool makes it worse later but I'm not seeing improvement. I think I'm going against TFP and replace the sand. I do not know it's history.
Sand in the pump basket has to be good right?--sarcasm.
TA is 130 but pH is 7.1. What do I do?
Fc is 26 so letting it come down.
Remember I'm slamming. Help. Anyone?
TA is 130 but pH is 7.1. What do I do?
Fc is 26 so letting it come down.
Remember I'm slamming. Help. Anyone?
how long have you been constantly slamming?
the short answer is to just keep it up. it will clear.
the short answer is to just keep it up. it will clear.
iam4iam
LifeTime Supporter
She's been constantly slamming for only a few days. As slowly as the pressure is rising we are afraid it will take weeks just to see the bottom of the pool. Right now you can't even see 12 inches. But it is not green, it is very very cloudy. If flow at returns is still strong, would it not perhaps be advantageous to let the pressure rise beyond what normally would call for a backwash in order for the filtering to take place more efficiently? This, of course, is assuming there is still good flow at the returns. How much more effective is adding DE to the sand?
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Sent from my XT1045 using Tapatalk
If the clearing is slow because the particles are smaller than the sand normally filters, then adding DE to the sand filter will significantly speed up the clearing. If the slow clearing is due to channeling in the sand filter, then the DE won't help and some may go through the filter and into the pool.