What now?

[czbrody]

I have a 25000 gal vinyl inground pool. Up until now I have used the FROG system and depended on the pool store to tell me what to do. Right now I have chlorine tablets in the FROG feeder. I kept the leaf net on all winter (pretty mild here) and now I am ready to turn the heater on and start swimming. I want to get my water balanced before I turn the heater on. I also want to switch to the TFP system. I ordered the TF1-100 test and tested my water today. Here are my levels:
FC 1.5
CC 1.5
CYA 30
TA 100
Hardness 400? Not sure about that one.
Just wondering what to do next. The water is cloudy. I have been using the Dolphin to get the sand/dirt off the bottom. I added a couple pounds of powdered shock over the weekend. Not even really sure what my goals are as far as levels go. Can anyone help?

 

[JJ_Tex]

Step 1: Get your FC up to 4-6 and keep it there. See this chart: Chlorine / CYA Chart - Trouble Free Pool

Step 2: Post a full set of results from your TF-100.

Step 3: If your water is still cloudy, I'm guessing that is the start of algae from your chlorine being lower than the recommended level for your CYA. You will need to SLAM if so.

Step 4: Figure out a better long term chlorination (not the Frog, it has metals and expensive cartridges). Liquid chlorine or SWCG are the preferred methods here since they wont add CYA, metals, or any other unnecessary additives.

 

[ajw22]

Do you have the mineral cartridge in the Frog system? The minerals will add silver and copper to your pool water which can accumulate and cause staining in your pool. We don't recommend it's use.

You can't use Trichlor tablets for long without your CYA getting too high. Best way to chlorinate your pool is with liquid chlorine or a SWG.

How to Chlorinate Your Pool

Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

See

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

If your CC is 1.5 then you have an algae problem. Confirm that by doing a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. To clear algae you need to follow the SLAM Process Both of these require the use of liquid chlorine.

I suggest you read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

If you need to SLAM, you'll need lots of chlorine bleach on hand; like 10 gallons or so. What's the bleach situation in your area? Can you find some in a pool store, Home Depot, Walmart, Lowes?

Why do you question your CH (hardness) test?

Make sure you know your pH before you proceed...

Welcome and best of luck from the left coast!

 

[czbrody]

Thanks for the suggestions. I was able to get some liquid chlorine. Do you think 10 gal will be enough for a SLAM? I added one gal last night and when I tasted this morning my FC was 5.5 and my CC was .5.
My other readings were the same as the day before.
CYA 30
TA 100
Hardness 400
PH 7.2
My real question is how high should I try to get the FC for the SLAM? And how much chlorine should I add to get it there? Thanks!

 

[ajw22]

Follow the FC/CYA Levels

CYA 30 has a SLAM FC of 12.

Use PoolMath to calculate the needed chlorine doses.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

If your CC is 1.5 then you have an algae problem. Confirm that by doing a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. To clear algae you need to follow the SLAM Process Both of these require the use of liquid chlorine.

To confirm the need to SLAM, follow Allen's advice on the OCLT. Make sure FC is stable when you test after dark. Test again in the morning before sunrise. If you lose more than 1.0 FC overnight, something organic is consuming chlorine and you need to do a SLAM. Take your time on the tests since accuracy is key for the OCLT.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

CZBrody, welcome to TFP Our methods of pool care mean we've learned which chemicals are necessary for pools, and which are *not!*. Right now, your FC needs attention...... but you don't want to use anything powdered or puck form. Those all have a side ingredient of either calcium or CYA stabilizer. Your CH is high enough....perhaps you've been adding CalHypo Shock products which give you chlorine + calcium.

SO lets dial it back to find the product you need which is just chlorine. Pool Stores sometimes sell jugs of "liquid chlorine" in large refillable carboys or on the shelf labeled "Liquid Shock:" and possibly up to 12% strength. Home Depot and Lowes sells some cartons of Chlorine also and I think they're about 10% strong. Your grocery store sells basic household bleach 6% mostly, but you have to look for the jug that has NO thickeners, NO Scents, No Polymer technology etc. You want just basic bleach. And no matter where you buy it you want to check the date code to make sure it was manufactured in 2020, hopefully after the 30th day (end of Jan) at the earliest. And don't buy any that has been stored in the sun or hot garden area as those will have lost strength.

Our PoolMath App (or the classic web version found below) will guide you in how much liquid to use to get x result.

You want to look at Pool School and see what your recommended levels should be, along with how to do a SLAM process.

We're all happy to help. TFP has helped each and every one of us and we're just passing in on.....

Maddie