What is the grey powder like stuff at the bottom of my pool?

[BadDogPSD]

If I recall correctly, high chlorine can mess with the PH test, so your PH may not really be 7.8. I'd let's the FC levels drop & retest once your FC is below 10. Your target for FC is 8-10, so it should drop into that range in a couple of days.
TA is high. You can lower this with Muriatic acid. This will also lower your PH. You can raise PH through aeration. I've been following this advice- let PH rise to 7.8, lower to 7.2 with acid, raise to 7.8 by aerating, lower with acid & repeat until you get to the desired TA level. Aeration raises PH without affecting TA.
Your CH is high for a vinyl pool. I think the recommended level is around 150. The only ways to lower CH that I've heard of are water replacement (assuming your fill water has low/lower CH), or a reverse osmosis filtration system.
Overall, I think you're in pretty good shape. I understand there can be some user error while learning how to use the test kits. I know I messed up a few times. I've read that static can affect the PH test droplet size too, so it's recommended to wipe the tip with a soft cloth for the first few uses.
Maybe perform a few more tests before trying to make any adjustments. Just don't let your FC levels get lower than the recommend levels!

 

[poolhomeschool]

If I recall correctly, high chlorine can mess with the PH test, so your PH may not really be 7.8. I'd let's the FC levels drop & retest once your FC is below 10. Your target for FC is 8-10, so it should drop into that range in a couple of days.
TA is high. You can lower this with Muriatic acid. This will also lower your PH. You can raise PH through aeration. I've been following this advice- let PH rise to 7.8, lower to 7.2 with acid, raise to 7.8 by aerating, lower with acid & repeat until you get to the desired TA level. Aeration raises PH without affecting TA.
Your CH is high for a vinyl pool. I think the recommended level is around 150. The only ways to lower CH that I've heard of are water replacement (assuming your fill water has low/lower CH), or a reverse osmosis filtration system.
Overall, I think you're in pretty good shape. I understand there can be some user error while learning how to use the test kits. I know I messed up a few times. I've read that static can affect the PH test droplet size too, so it's recommended to wipe the tip with a soft cloth for the first few uses.
Maybe perform a few more tests before trying to make any adjustments. Just don't let your FC levels get lower than the recommend levels!

if everything looms good then I don’t know what this grey powder is. Lol

Sorry I have to ask this , how do I create aeration? I also read that liquid chlorine can raise TA and PH level as well? I’ve been using a ton of it because I thought I had to keep my FC at 11-13 with CYA 100.

Can I use sequestering compound to decrease calcium hardness? Or does it just remove scale?

 

[BadDogPSD]

I've had success increasing PH by pointing my returns upwards so they create a ripple on the surface, spraying water onto the pool surface when adding makeup water, and just getting in & splashing around. Fountains, waterfalls& other water features also help.
Not sure on using a sequestering compound. I'll defer to the experts on that one. But for the most part they seem to be discouraged as they fix one issue only to possibly cause another.

 

[poolhomeschool]

I've had success increasing PH by pointing my returns upwards so they create a ripple on the surface, spraying water onto the pool surface when adding makeup water, and just getting in & splashing around. Fountains, waterfalls& other water features also help.
Not sure on using a sequestering compound. I'll defer to the experts on that one. But for the most part they seem to be discouraged as they fix one issue only to possibly cause another.

Ok I will wait and see the result again when FC drop.

I know how to drain the water below jet from the filter drain, but if I need to drain more I guess I have to fill it and I literally the water and drain again. But I would imagine it will take forever this way to decrease calcium hardness.

Thanks a lot for your help!

 

[BadDogPSD]

Ok I will wait and see the result again when FC drop.

I know how to drain the water below jet from the filter drain, but if I need to drain more I guess I have to fill it and I literally the water and drain again. But I would imagine it will take forever this way to decrease calcium hardness.

Thanks a lot for your help!

Have you tested your fill water? Ours has high TA (130) & high PH (7.8), but low CH (70).

 

[poolhomeschool]

Have you tested your fill water? Ours has high TA (130) & high PH (7.8), but low CH (70).

just tested
CH 50 TA 30 PH 7.2

when I first opened the pool it was more than half empty and I filled it all up, the Clorox app told me I need calcium hardness... so I bought their product And added... on their test strip it said 250 and ideal.... but I guess I did this to myself. The new kit I got said 500!

 

[BadDogPSD]

just tested
CH 50 TA 30 PH 7.2

when I first opened the pool it was more than half empty and I filled it all up, the Clorox app told me I need calcium hardness... so I bought their product And added... on their test strip it said 250 and ideal.... but I guess I did this to myself. The new kit I got said 500!

Those are really good numbers! Once you get things dialed in, it should be pretty easy to maintain.

 

[poolhomeschool]

Those are really good numbers! Once you get things dialed in, it should be pretty easy to maintain.

Do I really need to drain all the water and replace then? What would you do if you are in my place? Should I drain every time I backwash? And dilute slowly? Is the calcium hardness a fix that need to be done right now?

 

[JamesW]

If the dust has any yellow to it, it's probably mustard algae.

To check for DE bypassing the filter, add 1 lb. of DE to the skimmer and watch the returns carefully for 2 minutes and see if any comes out.

 

[poolhomeschool]

If the dust has any yellow to it, it's probably mustard algae.

To check for DE bypassing the filter, add 1 lb. of DE to the skimmer and watch the returns carefully for 2 minutes and see if any comes out.

The dust is grey or dark grey/ dark brown. I am too scared to pour DE in it. I just backwash like a week ago and added the 3lbs of DE, if I put too much now it will come out or cause the filter not probably right?

 

[JamesW]

Take the filter apart and clean it well. Look for any damage that could allow de to pass. When you add new de, watch the returns carefully for 2 minutes to see if any de comes out. The returns should remain clear. If you see cloudiness, de is probably passing. Look very closely at the dust to see if it has any yellow coloring at all.

 

[poolhomeschool]

Take the filter apart and clean it well. Look for any damage that could allow de to pass. When you add new de, watch the returns carefully for 2 minutes to see if any de comes out. The returns should remain clear. If you see cloudiness, de is probably passing. Look very closely at the dust to see if it has any yellow coloring at all.

That is another task I need to learn, I don’t know how to take the filter part and put it back yet. I called the pool guy when I had a leak with a plumbing part. They did take the filter part and cleaned it. I know they checked it and everything seems fine.

I backwash twice by myself, first time I added 4lbs and I saw these grey powder at the bottom, this time I backwash and learned that I should add 3 lbs. I wonder if it could be the extra 1lb of DE powder I put in previously?

I will observe to check color tomorrow. I did the test with the recommended test kit and it said no CC. It could still be algae?

what do you recommend on the Hugh calcium hardness?
Thanks a lot!

 

[JamesW]

Algae doesn't usually cause CC.

You probably just need a full SLAM.

To prevent calcium problems, maintain the CSI between -0.3 and 0.0.

Check the filter as described.

Check for yellow coloring in the dust.

 

[mknauss]

I also read that liquid chlorine can raise TA and PH level as well?

Not correct. Liquid chlorine is pH neutral and does not add any TA.

 

[poolhomeschool]

Algae doesn't usually cause CC.

You probably just need a full SLAM.

To prevent calcium problems, maintain the CSI between -0.3 and 0.0.

Check the filter as described.

Check for yellow coloring in the dust.

Oh in that case, I only need to reduce the PH and TA then CSI would drop, and I don’t have to worry about the CH at all.
Also I read somewhere that I should deduct my alkalinity ppm 1/3 of my CYA reading?
In my case my 1/3 of 70 cya =23.3
TA 160-23=137 this is my correct TA?

 

[poolhomeschool]

Not correct. Liquid chlorine is pH neutral and does not add any TA.

What about calculating TA when having CYA of 70? Can I avoid replacing water for my 500 CH simply keeping my CSI in check. For my case if I lower the TA and PH the calculator said it will be ok.
Thanks for the help!

 

[JamesW]

Don't worry about adjusting the TA. Just input the number as tested and poolmath will do the calculation.

 

[JamesW]

Do this modified test to see if the test is getting interference from metals.

 

[poolhomeschool]

Do this modified test to see if the test is getting interference from metals.

Ok just did this.

Using this method The CH is 320
Without this method CH 450

 

[JamesW]

Did you count the original drops?

When doing the modified test vs the regular test, is there a better endpoint transition?