We made it to gunite... finally!

[sll0037]

Our Dig is complete!

On to soil injections tomorrow, then plumbing.

• Are there any measurements I should verify now that the dig is done?

In regards to plumbing, my builder has not provided a plumbing layout, but he's scheduled to meet with me on site tomorrow at 2p. I'd love to get all this done the best way now, so as to maximize performance and usability in the future.

What plumbing items should I ensure are done "correctly" now to ensure I have the best set-up moving forward to use and service the pool?

As it sits now, I think we've accounted for the following:

1. 2 Skimmers - Plumbed Independently
2. 4 Returns - Looped
3. Two Pumps - One Main Pump & One Features Pump
4. Heater Bypass
5. Chiller Bypass
6. Chiller - Dedicated Return
7. 8 Spa Jets - Looped
8. Auto-Leveler
   • What's the best way to do this?
   • I've seen levelers near the skimmer and levelers at the equipment pad, but I don't understand the pros and cons.

Are there details I'm missing in regards to plumbing?

 

[wireform]

You can measure frame to frame to see if the size is much smaller or bigger then the plans. Nows the best time to catch that one before rebar begins.

 

[HermanTX]

What plumbing items should I ensure are done "correctly" now to ensure I have the best set-up moving forward to use and service the pool?

Use Sch 40 sweep 90 deg ells in place of straight 90s. You have to ask for them.
Avoid use of any flexible PVC
You could request independent returns to the pool if desired fine tune flow
Use only Jandy type 2 way and 3 way diverter valves. Avoid any PVC ball valve.
Ask for a plumbing layout - this ensures you the PB and the plumber can be on the same page.
If you have a Cartridge filter then put in a Tee between it and the pump to have a drain outlet. Connect that drain outlet to your landscape drain system if code allows that
Ask how the plumbing will be tested (air or water) and for how long.
Space out the suction lines from the return lines so you have space at the equipment pad to work on equipment.

 

[sll0037]

If you have a Cartridge filter then put in a Tee between it and the pump to have a drain outlet. Connect that drain outlet to your landscape drain system if code allows that

Would this be the same as my city requiring a waste line to be plumbed to my main sewer line from the equipment pad?

Also, is there any downside to have my equipment pad shaped like an L vs a linear, straight line?

• I currently have 10 ft of space down the side of my house (against the brick) inside the fence (red line) where we'd like to keep the equipment (10' x 3' Pad)
• If we need more space, I'd prefer to have the equipment pad turn right, where I'd have another 10 feet against the fence line (orange line).

I have about another 10 feet up the side of the house closer to pool before the wall opens up to the patio/outdoor kitchen, but I'm trying to keep that space open for a small shed build.

 

[HermanTX]

Would this be the same as my city requiring a waste line to be plumbed to my main sewer line from the equipment pad?

I have my gutter downspouts tied into my drainage that goes to the main sewer line. So I think yours is similar.

 

[sll0037]

I have my gutter downspouts tied into my drainage that goes to the main sewer line. So I think yours is similar.

We'll actually be tying my gutters into a new drainage system that exits at the street. My pool builder wanted to tie in the waste line into this system, but my city requires it to go into the main sewer drain.

 

[kimkats]

Measurement of pool-Add about 6" for shell and plaster. Going from side to side or end to end will mean adding 12". For the depth you measure from bottom to the middle of the skimmer opening. Again add 6" for the shell and plaster.

 

[sll0037]

Measurement of pool-Add about 6" for shell and plaster. Going from side to side or end to end will mean adding 12". For the depth you measure from bottom to the middle of the skimmer opening. Again add 6" for the shell and plaster.

I quickly checked my measurements this morning and it looks good so far.

It looks like I have an extra 2' of total width and 2' of total length, which is what the builder planned based on how thick he makes his gunite.

Should I be concerned with the slightly concave portion of the long wall near the deep end? It doesn't look completely vertical.

 

[sll0037]

Met with the PB today. It went well but he certainly wasn’t the plumbing expert. He called his project manager and they were conflicting each other, so I likely need to dictate what I want and ask they execute.

1. Glacier 215 Pool Chiller

• Since this is a new build, a dedicated return for the pool chiller seems ideal.
• Glacier calls for a 2” dedicated line to be centered on the pool floor.
• Is this the best way to do it?
• The pool builder wanted to either tie into the existing 4 returns or plumb in an additional 2-4 chiller returns to evenly distribute the cold water.
• Thoughts?

2. Sweep 90s

• I asked for Sweep 90s and he said it’s not a problem except in the actual pool structure. He said there is not enough room to facilitate sweep 90s in the pool.
• Is this true.

3. Lighting

• He included 3 bubblers for free but he said upgrading to 3 LED bubblers would likely set me back $800/each. Is that about right?
• Additional Microbrites would be $700-$800 each.

4. Electrical

• He said standard is 50 Amp sub panel.
• Should I be asking for 100 Amp? How much more should I expect to pay?

5. Pool Auto Level

• We’re planning for a float autoleveler in the skimmer but he said he hates them. He said he prefers to fill via a timed sprinkler valve.
• Is there any merit to this thinking?

I think I’m just going to insist on 2.5” piping on both the suction and return side for the pool.

He said the way my pool would be plumbed, I’d have the main pump for the Pool/Spa. In spa mode, almost all the pump power would be dedicated to the 8 looped spa jets. The features pump would let me run all three bubblers or all three sheer descents or all bubblers and sheer descents together.

I asked if he could do 3” plumbing to the spa but he seemed to think it might not be needed.

Should I ask for a certain size pipe to the three sheer descents?

I’ve been reading about plumbing all day and I’m not confident on a decision to the above questions yet.

 

[wireform]

Pool Auto Level

• We’re planning for a float autoleveler in the skimmer but he said he hates them. He said he prefers to fill via a timed sprinkler valve.
• Is there any merit to this thinking?

To me it's not the same. Timed to what, how does it know how much water to add. Autofill all the way baby.

I think I’m just going to insist on 2.5” piping on both the suction and return side for the pool.

The suction side should be larger then the return side. 2.5" for the return is unnecessary.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Sweep 90s (see picture)
Auto-fill in a canister with a float mechanism is the only type I request to be installed.

 

[sll0037]

Is there a brand and model associated with the autofill you pictured?

PB stated what he uses is Pentair but that it’s inside the skimmer lid with a float similar to what’s in a toilet.

 

[HermanTX]

Electrical

• He said standard is 50 Amp sub panel.
• Should I be asking for 100 Amp? How much more should I expect to pay?

For Reference - I have a 60amp sub panel. It powers the following
Pentair 3.0hp VS pump
Pentair 1.0hp Single speed waterfall pump
A 3/4hp booster pump for pressure side cleaner
A air blower for spa (think it is 1 hp)
1 500w standard pool light
1 ?w standard spa light
Automation system with SWCG
A 90W (equivalent) LED light over the equipment pad

Now I rarely have everything on at once (probably never) but I have had all 3 pumps on
So a 50amp sub panel may get you by but it depends what else you may add to the load in the future.
You can tally up the amps of every piece of equipment to look at maximum then rationalize what is likely to be on at any given time

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Plumber advised it was a pour n lid auto fill.

 

[ajw22]

Is there a brand and model associated with the autofill you pictured?

PB stated what he uses is Pentair but that it’s inside the skimmer lid with a float similar to what’s in a toilet.

Autofills that use a Fluidmaster valve have less problems then a float valve.

Pentair has autofill models with both valves. Get the model being used.

AutoFill - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Schwimmbad]

1. Glacier 215 Pool Chiller

• Since this is a new build, a dedicated return for the pool chiller seems ideal.
• Glacier calls for a 2” dedicated line to be centered on the pool floor.
• Is this the best way to do it?
• The pool builder wanted to either tie into the existing 4 returns or plumb in an additional 2-4 chiller returns to evenly distribute the cold water.
• Thoughts?

My plumbing installed for a future glacier chiller matches what you are planning and matches the glacier manual for a new installation. However another TFP’er messaged me that when he checked with glacier they told him of a limitation for this configuration. The return can only be about 25’ long since it only uses a sump pump to empty water at the bottom of the chiller. I’d suggest confirming with glacier asap. I can reconfigure my plumbing at the pad fairly easily if I need to change it around to dump the chiller output into the suction side of the pump. Hard to believe they don’t state this in the manual.

 

[Lampasas1]

Did your plumber ever provide you with a plumbing diagram? I’m interested because I have a similar set up and about to begin pool installation.

 

[Schwimmbad]

No, I made my own based mostly on feedback from the TFP members. The evolution of my plan is in my build thread, link in my signature. Showing below my starting diagram and my final diagram.

First diagram



Final diagram

 

[Lampasas1]

Do you think you will ever need to heat the spa and chill the pool at the same time?

 

[Schwimmbad]

I don’t have a spa, but depending on location that is certainly a possibility