Water is stlll cloudy

[dmanb2b]

Roland,

I hear your frustrations, but the questions I asked you were so that we can eliminate any misunderstanding on your part of what our method is. You did not answer my questions.

Have you confirmed you are done shocking? We know your water is not clear, so to confirm you are done shocking please confirm that your CC is 0.5 or below and you have passed the overnight FC loss test. An updated set of #'s would help as well. At least FC, CC, PH and CYA. Bruce tested your water and the CC level was 5ppm, if I recall correctly? It takes a lot of chlorine to burn that number down.

After we confirm you are done shocking, then we can move onto the filter issue. I'm not familiar with cart. filters, but is the valve actually set to filter, instead of bypass?

We're trying to help you accomplish your goal, and that is to clear your pool and hopefully avoid you having to buy a new filter.

Trust us that the methods work, the forum is 17,000 members strong, so if we were trying to pull a fast one on you, someone would have already chimed in with their red flag. Just my two cents...we are here to help, so if you have some test results that would help us help you. Dumping chemicals blindly into your pool will not.

 

[Mule]

bk406,
I have and use a TF-100 test kit with a Taylor Speed Stir. I can't say for sure how accurate my results are, but I have tried to follow the directions and have come up with consistent results. The CYA test with the black spot seems a little subjective to me, but at about the 30 line on the tube, I can no longer see the black spot.
My pool hasn't been green in about three weeks. I haven't added chlorine in about two weeks and have had the SWCG turned off and my FC is now down to about 3.5. It stayed at about 14 for a few days after it was no longer green. Then, it still stayed high because I had the SWCG set a 70% with cold temps and no bathers. Water is about 52 degrees now. I'm PRETTY sure that I had it at shock level for enough time to kill the algae. I just want the water to clear up now so that I can close the pool. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Mule

 

[dmanb2b]

Mule...if you pass the overnight FC loss test, then it's likely a filter issue. Try the OFCLT 1st.

 

[ItGetsGreen]

"You did not answer my questions.", definitely true, and I haven't done all the testing required. And yes, my Taylor kit arrived, and I started making some tests. But I tried yesterday for about 15 minutes, I kept flipping through the book, about 50 pages without the tables, looking for the instructions (not the theory). And turned to the quick instructions under the lid, something about "dippers" just to test the chlorine and got lost. Sorry, I have so much work to do. I also was questioning the utility of relentlessly pursuing the proper pool chemistry when there is so much doubt if the filter is working correctly, and few definitive answers are available on this matter. So, yes, the algae is all dead, there can be nothing left, I know from experience from shocking this pool when it is at 60 degrees or less.

Thanks for your support, I am going to take a break for a few days before I write again.
- some say follow the TFP/BBB methods, guaranteed!
- some say the filter is your problem, guaranteed!
- the pool clarifier actually says guaranteed!
Still feels like folklore.

I've been down this road before, everybody says their thing works, and if it doesn't it is my fault. In the end everybody has advice but in fact I am responsible for understanding and fixing the problem. That is why I keep challenging and questioning, and honestly I haven't gotten answers to the questions I've posed either (and I am the amateur).

My head is "swimming", see you in a few days.

Roland

 

[dmanb2b]

We are here to help when you are ready. Let us know if you have any specific test kit questions as well as which specific test kit you are using. Take care