Water is clear, CC is 0, but algae is still present?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
proavia said:
Many color-blind members do NOT have an issue with the FAS-DPD test as for them it changes from "some" color to clear.
Click to expand...
Right, my issue was for the last few drops, I just couldn't figure out if the solution was already clear or if there's an ever so slight shade of pink, then I add another drop, still wasn't sure, then another one...when I was finally confident it's clear, I was sort of second-guessing whether it really just turned clear or it already did a few drops ago but my eyes only registered the change.

Not sure if this makes sense. Maybe I just need to do this a few more times so I can get used to it.
 
Maybe do it a few times with someone else watching as well so you can compare what your see with what they see as the sample goes clear.
 
asura1 said:
For the purpose of adjusting CYA, should I treat such reading as 20, or less?
Click to expand...
If you confirm the CYA is low and not a solid 30, then add about 10 ppm worth of stabilizer until you are confident of the new CYA or 30, 40, or whatever you are trying to reach.
 
CYA still <20. Will get on with adding stabilizer (sock method).

I have looked through this forum and it seems like I need to wait 24 hours in order to test it again.

Should I still add 5ppm of liquid chlorine in the meantime? Any point in doing some vacuuming now? I'd hate to stand around and twiddle my thumbs.
 
asura1 said:
I need to wait 24 hours in order to test it again.
Click to expand...
Yes, wait 24 hrs after all the stabilizer is out of the sock & dissolved to do the next CYA test.

You can continue to add liquid chlorine as needed though. Brush and vacuum as you see fit at any time. :goodjob:
 
If I didn't know any better, I'd have jumped in right then and there 🥲

But I'm at peace with the fact that this is only the beginning and there's still lots of work to do

1000009020.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Texas Splash
In the pool house, I found an unlabelled plastic bag of slightly off-white granules that look like stabilizers but give off a strong chlorine smell (the stabilizers I bought don't have that smell), which I accidentally inhaled a little.

Could they just be old stabilizers or something else?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Stick with it. Something is still a bit off for debris to be settling like that. I believe you were going to add stabilizer so once you do that let's confirm the CYA is up to at least 30. Even if you over-shoot and the CYA is 40, that's very manageable at a slightly higher SLAM FC level.

Refresh my memory since this thread is getting longer, have you opened the filter before? I don't recall if you have, or what condition the sand may be in.
 
Pic #3 is what I was looking for - the plumbing connections. Your water IN and waste OUT are flex lines and can easily be disconnected from the MPV. But the 3rd PVC line is screwed into the MPV without a union. That means if you were to try and lift the MPV up from the filter body (to get inside and inspect the sand), you have very limited movement for that PVC line because it will still be connected to the MPV. Does that make sense?

Anyway, at some point it could be to your benefit to lift the MPV off the top to inspect the sand and perhaps do a deep cleaning. You have about what, 45-60 days left in the season? So if the pool water doesn't clear up soon from the SLAM, that might be the next step. Or you just live with what you have for a few more weeks and tackle the filter upon closing.

There are tons of videos on YouTube about opening a sand filter, so I encourage you to look at some so you can see what I mean about that 3rd line being attached to the MPV the way it is. In the future, you'll want to cut that PVC line along the straight part just before the 90 degree elbow that goes into the MPV and insert a union so you can take it apart in the future.

For now, continue with what you are doing. You've made some very good progress.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88 and asura1
Just tested again, I believe CYA is right about 30 (the level at which I could no longer see the black dot is just very slightly over the 30 line), and pH is >8.2 (solution looks somewhat more pink than 8.2 according to my wife).

I think the next step is adding muriatic acid to address pH - I will add enough to lower pH from 8.2 to 7.2, then test again in an hour.

One question on changing water level - obviously backwashing, rinsing and evaporation reduce water level, while rain and adding water from the hose increase water level. Assuming the chemicals are evenly distributed in the water, is it right to say these activities would have minimal impact on the chemical concentrations?
 
asura1 said:
is it right to say these activities would have minimal impact on the chemical concentrations?
Click to expand...
Absolutely. One or two backwashes not so much, but when several backwashes are required in a short period (i.e. SLAM) it can impact the levels. When water is lost, it takes salt, calcium, and CYA with it. Then when you add new water, it can increase the TA and pH a bit. New water has no CYA, so you have to watch that one for sure.
 
It's getting harder and harder to pull my wife back from the pool in this 30C weather...but I did read on the SLAM page that

"Though your free chlorine levels may seem high, you can safely swim in your pool so long as you can see the bottom".

Sounds like she can get in there when FC is below SLAM level. Maybe before the next scheduled chlorine top-up?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88 and Texas Splash

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply