When they shot the gunite it started to rain pretty hard. They had to punch some holes in the wall to relieve the water pressure due to the rain. The flow of the water created some grooves from the shallow end to the deep end. Some of the grooves are over 1” deep. Can they just plaster over/fill this groove or will the plaster crack if applied too thick?
Water grooves in new gunite in-ground pool
- Thread starter TransientWake
- Start date
I bet that made your heart skip a few beats when you saw that 
It will be fine in the end. They can add the same stuff they will be patching the holes with to the floor to fill up the deeper grooves.
It will be fine in the end. They can add the same stuff they will be patching the holes with to the floor to fill up the deeper grooves.Gut wrenching for sure. They say it’s not good to see how that sausage is made...and it’s been messy. They will use the plaster to fill the weep holes and they will use the paster to fill in these grooves as well. I’ve been told that plaster shouldn’t be applied thicker than 3/4”, so I was concerned that this would be a place the plaster would eventually crack.
Nope, nope, nope!!! They should NOT use plaster to fill in the holes and groove. I will cirlce back with what they should use.
Okay dinner is done......................they should use hydraulic cement to fill in the holes and groove. THEN they should plaster over it to seal it.
Thanks! One follow up, As the pool floor slopes from the shallow end to the deep end, it’s not a straight slope...some ups and downs. How much of that can the plaster hide? Specifically, my question is how thick can the plaster be installed before you worry about cracking / shrinkage, etc? I have seen thicknesses discussed ranging from 1/4” to 3/4”. Can it be any thicker? In my simple mind I compare this to sparkling compound for drywall. It works great when applied in thin layer....but too think it starts to shrink and crack.
My PB tells me there is no such thing as cold joints with Gunite. I did some research and found that to be true if first pour was less than 7 days old, proper cleaning, etc. Well my shell is almost 1 month old. There was some miscommunication between PB and gunite sub. They poured my tanning shelf 6 Inch too short In length. I was ok with it, but sub proceeded to chip out the edge to extend it (using shotcrete). initially he was going to just shoot extra gunite. I told him that he needed rebar, so it would not crack. He reluctantly agreed…drilled some holes and added some rebar. I told him that he either needs to epoxy rebar into existing or uncover rebar and tie into it. PB disagrees and says don’t need that.
I can’t imagine that just shooting additional gunite without rebar is acceptable (and since rebar dowels are just drilled, I am assuming they will not provide any benefit) and will eventually crack in the plaster….even just cosmetic. I don’t want to see / deal with that after paying $100k for a new pool. Should I worry?
I can’t imagine that just shooting additional gunite without rebar is acceptable (and since rebar dowels are just drilled, I am assuming they will not provide any benefit) and will eventually crack in the plaster….even just cosmetic. I don’t want to see / deal with that after paying $100k for a new pool. Should I worry?
A wider angle pic….
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Since the main part of the shelf is tied into the walls and floor it will be fine like it is now. I have seen where they added to the shelf and did not use any rebar but I have not any follow up years down the road so don't know how well it held up.
Thanks. My main concern is if there will be a crack along the length of the new extension. The rebar is not tied bonded to anything. Just drilled and hammered into the existing shelf.
I understand you worry and get it. I REALLY think the rebar will keep that from happening. Then add in the plaster on top of it and you should be good to go!