So I have been wondering, is it better to run pumps longer with lower % of SWCG or shorter with higher % on the SWCG? If you are circulating water without the SWCG on, does the SWCG increase the PH even though it is off or does the SWCG only increase PH when it is on? If the PH increase is more with the SWCG on, I would think it would be best to have it on as little as possible with higher % on SWCG to maintain chlorine levels. Or does running the SWCG at higher level reduce its life more than having it on more at a lower level. If PH increase is more when SWCG is on I would like to have it run as little as possible with a higher % production and then just circulate water with it off as necessary to skim pool. Thoughts?
Water going thru SWCG without it on - PH?
- Thread starter MCF50
- Start date
50,
A SWCG does not increase the pH of the pool water.
Aeration from spillover spas and shear descents increases pH, as will as high TA..
Thanks,
Jim R.
A SWCG does not increase the pH of the pool water.
Aeration from spillover spas and shear descents increases pH, as will as high TA..
Thanks,
Jim R.
That's interesting. Then why is the number one negative of SW pools is PH issues requiring addition of acid?
The only water I have moving when I have SWCG on is a VERY gentle roll of water from hot tub down a short wall into the pool. The water disturbance is minimal. So based on 'SWCG' doesn't increase PH, then it makes sense to put SWCG as high as possible with absolute minimal pump run time, correct?
50,
When you compare a standard chlorine tablet pool, with a saltwater pool, it does appear that the saltwater pool requires more acid.. But that it just because the chlorine tablets include the acid, so it is not a fair comparison.
In my case I run my pump and cell 24/7 because I like making a little chlorine all the time and I especially like skimming all the time..
I doubt you will see much difference, but it would be interesting to try your idea and see if you can tell any difference in pH increase...
Let's see what others have to say.. Calling @JoyfulNoise
Thanks,
Jim R.
When you compare a standard chlorine tablet pool, with a saltwater pool, it does appear that the saltwater pool requires more acid.. But that it just because the chlorine tablets include the acid, so it is not a fair comparison.
In my case I run my pump and cell 24/7 because I like making a little chlorine all the time and I especially like skimming all the time..
I doubt you will see much difference, but it would be interesting to try your idea and see if you can tell any difference in pH increase...
Let's see what others have to say.. Calling @JoyfulNoise
Thanks,
Jim R.
So here is an idea!!!! If chlorine tablets contain acid (I DID NOT know this) why not keep the tablet dispenser full with tablets and have it barely open to always add a little chlorine and acid while the pool is running..whether the SWCG is on or not.
Because the acid (CYA) builds up over time and decreases the chlorine effectiveness until such point that algae starts growing.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,444
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
It really does not matter how you run the SWG, what matters is lifetime. The SWG plates have a finite lifetime and chlorine generating capacity. The more you use them the closer you get to wearing them out. So to maximize their lifetime, and limit their usage, TFP recommends running at a higher CYA level to reduce chlorine loss to UV photolysis and to keep your pool clean and well maintained to avoid excess chlorine demand. We also recommend that pool owners keep their saturation balance, CSI, slightly negative to avoid calcium scale build up on the plates which can adversely affect their lifespan. Borates also help to control pH rise inside the cell.
not trying to hijack the thread, but i've always wondered...how negative is slightly negative? i try to keep myself somewhere between -0.3 and 0, but often the first day or so after i've added acid i end up down near -0.6 since i still haven't mastered exactly how much acid i need to get from 8.0 to 7.8...
- May 23, 2015
- 24,444
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Any CSI value between 0 and -0.3 is fine. A temporary drop to -0.6 or lower would be expected if you dose a large amount of acid all at once. It won’t stay that low for long and so there’s no I’ll effects for a transitory low value. When people wreck plastered pools, it’s because they use pucks indiscriminately and their pH/TA usually crashes without them knowing about it and stays that way for weeks or months on end. That’s why pool service companies always have a bucket of soda ash in their trucks to offset all the acidity caused by constantly using trichlor pucks.
Use the PoolMath app to calculate small pan changes. As long as you measure first, store those test values and then use the app to calculate how much acid is needed, you’ll hit your target value pretty easily.
I follow the TFP recommendation pretty close and after 7 or 8 months my cell has no buildup 
I was expecting something when I checked it.
I was expecting something when I checked it.