VSP Schedule

Jun 21, 2013
6
New pool owner and trying to figure out the best schedule / speeds to set up for the variable speed pump. I am currently running 24/7, which is fine with me, since I tend to get a bit of debris in the pool from some nerby trees, but thinking I could reduce the speeds a bit and save some electricity. I know I might need to play around with it, but not even sure where to start as a baseline and the Jandy docs don’t seem to offer much guidance ... and neither did my pool builder.

Plaster pool
25K gallons
3 returns
2 skimmers
Jandy VSP 2.7hp (600 RPM - 3450 RPM)
Jandy DE filter (Max Flow Rate 96 GPM)
Nature2 Fusion Soft Salt Chlorinator (Flow Rate – Min 30 GPM / Max 120 GPM)

I also have a Polaris pressure cleaner that I have set to run from 9-1, but I have that off a booster pump, so don’t think that factors in.
 
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There's pretty much never a reason to run a pump 24/7 other than you just want to.

If it's just surface debris you are worried about run as slow as possible while still keeping the pool clean.

You've got that mineral whatever in there. Not sure how you have it scheduled to operate so if you need a min flow thru there all the time run the pump just faster enough to not get a flow error on it.

You don't have a heater mentioned so that's not a concern. Same for no water features.

I would guess around 1400rpm would work. Not much to really schedule or program.
 
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One way to approach it

Run your VSP most of the day at an rpm only fast enough to have water flowing over the Weir door on your skimmer. If that speed doesn’t skim good enough all day you can always program in points of the day to spin your pump faster & call it/them ‘high skim’ or whatnot.

For my pool with the heater and all, that comes out to 1450rpms. Every pool is different & many folks without heaters can run their pump slower than I can (1100-1200rpm) & still get water flowing over the Weir door. Then I have mine programmed to run a high skim speed 2x a day (once in morning, once in evening). It’s really whatever works for your setup & debris load experienced.
 
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Not sure if this changes anything, but I probably should have added these two based on comments above
AquaCal 450 heat pump / 60hz. I haven't been running it much, since it's kinda useless unless it's already warm out. I am in NJ.
Jandy 3' Sheer Descent - although I don't run it very often. Maybe once every 2 weeks for 30 minutes or so.

So maybe I update the pump to run for 12 hours @ 1450 ? See where that takes me and modify from there?

And if I am using the heater or water feature then manually turn the pump on to run as long as they are running, right?
 
Sounds like a plan.

That's part of the fun with VS pumps there really is no right or wrong. Run the pump as fast as slow as you need to make all your stuff work.

When nobody is there and the pool is just skimming to stay clean run slow and save electricity.
 
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So maybe I update the pump to run for 12 hours @ 1450 ? See where that takes me and modify from there?

And if I am using the heater or water feature then manually turn the pump on to run as long as they are running, right?
When your heater isn't on let the flow of your particular setup's water flow over the Weir door determine your lowest practical rpm setting. That value may or may not allow your heater to run when you want it actively heating... you'll just have to play with it & see it it will heat your water at your lowest over-Weir-door rpm setting on the VSP.
 
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Thanks all! I really appreciate the suggestions. I’ve never owned a pool and still learning. I definitely want to make use of the VSP, since I got my first post pool electric bill ... and WOW! Yeah running 24/7 is costing me WAY more than I anticipated 😂
 
Not sure if this changes anything, but I probably should have added these two based on comments above
AquaCal 450 heat pump / 60hz. I haven't been running it much, since it's kinda useless unless it's already warm out. I am in NJ.
Jandy 3' Sheer Descent - although I don't run it very often. Maybe once every 2 weeks for 30 minutes or so.

So maybe I update the pump to run for 12 hours @ 1450 ? See where that takes me and modify from there?

And if I am using the heater or water feature then manually turn the pump on to run as long as they are running, right?
Your jandy 3' sheer descent should be run every day for just a few short minutes otherwise the stagnant water can become algae infested.
 
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If you are there to enjoy looking at the water feature it's not a waste or too long it's what you had it installed for. Something nice to look at and enjoy.

Running it for an extended period of time when nobody is there or overnight when it's too dark to see anything is a bit of a waste of electricity I my opinion.
 
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If you are there to enjoy looking at the water feature it's not a waste or too long it's what you had it installed for. Something nice to look at and enjoy.

Running it for an extended period of time when nobody is there or overnight when it's too dark to see anything is a bit of a waste of electricity I my opinion.
And will run the PH to the sky for no good reason. Then you start having TA issues cuz you keep treating with MA to bring the PH in line which also takes the TA with it little at time. Don't run it unnecessarily with nobody around.
 
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And will run the PH to the sky for no good reason. Then you start having TA issues cuz you keep treating with MA to bring the PH in line which also takes the TA with it little at time. Don't run it unnecessarily with nobody around.

Which is what I said. Run it when you are there to enjoy it. Don't feel guilty about that.

A quick purge daily keeps it clean.

If your run the feature long enough to cause chemistry changes your test kit gives you the power to act as needed. pH and TA work together and should be adjusted in slow small changes. Large panic adjustments lead you to violent swings that make you pull out your hair.

The addition of borates to the pool, while not for everyone, can act as a great pH and TA stabilizer.
 
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