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Just curious, do you have a skim-a-round or skim doctor? I have one and when I'm running higher rpms it will pull so much air into the plumbing that it stops pumping for about 10 seconds before starting back. I've gone back to my normal basket for now.

I'm just wondering how it calculates the gpm, is it actually measuring how much is flowing? If it was calculating actual gpm then losing prime over and over may explain it. Just a shot in the dark. I ask because you mentioned the vacuum stopping in the middle of using it.
 
BenB said:
Click on the item from the main screen and it'll let you input from/to/chemical to show how much to add. Is that what you mean?
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Yeah, I see it now. Not sure how I missed that. For FC, I'm using liquid chlorine, for figuring out how much to add in the app, should I be using "bleach"?
 
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RHanna said:
Just curious, do you have a skim-a-round or skim doctor? I have one and when I'm running higher rpms it will pull so much air into the plumbing that it stops pumping for about 10 seconds before starting back. I've gone back to my normal basket for now.
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No, nothing like that.
RHanna said:
I ask because you mentioned the vacuum stopping in the middle of using it.
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That was a one time thing, hasn't happened since. I closed all valves completely except for the skimmer I was using to vacuum. Lost prime when the skimmer filled up.
 
Excellent, SLAM is off to a great start. The drop of 1.0 FC suggests a SLAM is not needed, but given the history I think your decision for a "reset" is a good one.

Your CYA is 40, so your SLAM FC level is 16 ppm FC.

In the evening, if possible, add the required amount of liquid chlorine, unplug the SWCG, and brush the pool. After brushing, test your FC so you know the actual resulting FC level from your last addition, and as long as it's close to 16 (say, e.g., 14 or more), use that as your OCLT starting level.

I think it's a good idea to have your cover on if you plan to be using it regularly. For one thing, it may have some algae on it. Secondly, that's your normal condition, so it's important to know that FC is holding with the cover on. I would roll it up in the morning and let the pool breathe through the daytime.

Yes, use Bleach as your source in PoolMath, and be sure to enter the sodium hypochlorite % shown on the chlorine jug label into PoolMath when calculating the amount to add.

Great looking pool by the way!
 
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Knowing the challenge / cost with getting test supplies in Canada, here's my tips from being in the same boat down here in Aus.

During the SLAM, use a 5 ml sample size, and one drop = 1 ppm FC. Go back to 10 ml for start and finish of OCLT.

For salt, 5 mls is also fine, and one drop = 400 ppm salt, rather than one drop = 200 ppm, close enough for managing the salt level. Ignore the automation number unless it's causing some other issue.

For CYA, provided you don't backwash or drain water for any reason, be careful with weights and PoolMath, and if your last test result was (for example) 40, and you add enough CYA to get to 60, just enter 60 as a test result and re-test in a month. You can add a "note" log saying CYA is an estimate, if that's helpful. Chances are you'll run out of CYA reagent faster than anything else.

Getting your pool volume as correct as possible also saves on testing. Keep a written log of chem additions and the effect on the pool. If it's always higher than expected, reduce your pool volume in PoolMath a wee bit. (or vice versa).

For me and pH testing, using just a wee bit less pool water (maybe 6 mm (1/4") below the proper amount), and four drops instead of five is actually easier for me to match the colour.

CC is very seldom important, so you can skip that test occasionally.

Never leave the test kit or any dropper bottles in the sun or heat for more than a few minutes. Keep them cool and shelf life will be longest.
 
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I'm a little confused this morning.

I made a faux pas yesterday and added too much chlorine. It was at 20 last night. This morning it's 13 (0 CC). I expected it to drop by 1 or so like the previous night. What does this mean? What should I do next?
 
It probably means the first test was an error giving you a false pass. This makes sense if it’s the case because with everything else you had going on, that test should have failed like this one.

So you SLAM until you pass the 3 criteria. Tomorrow’s test will verify whichever one was an error.

Yesterday’s adding error is an error, but you still would have passed it either way if nothing was growing in your water.
 
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Also, don’t get discouraged. You are new to both testing and the program. They both are super easy but take a few tries to dial in and get right. Many times peoples perceived pool volume is off and overshooting/undershooting occurs, needing some tweaks.

You’ll see a pattern, dial it in accordingly and be on your way. :)
 
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KevinBond said:
. I guess I can just do these every night?
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Sure can !! Once it’s second nature it’s only needed to prove you have a problem, Or to prove your SLAM worked once you have clear water. For a newb I like to recommend getting a few tests under your belt so you are good at it when it counts
 
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FC 16 is the target.

I shouldn't have mentioned 14. That was only in respect of not staying up all night trying to get it to exactly 16. Main thing for OCLT is to let the water mix after your last chlorine addition, then do the starting test.

Anyway, all good, you're underway with the SLAM and it will really pay off for your summer ahead.
 
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Yes. You will almost certainly pass the OCLT, but rules are rules. What kinda world would we be living in without rules ? :ROFLMAO:

Maintain SLAM level *until* you :

Have clear water
Pass OCLT
CC of .5 or less.
 
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Really cold and rainy today. Pool is really steaming with the cover off. Any harm in covering today while I'm slamming? Can. I just flip the cover off over the area I'm adding chlorine?
 
KevinBond said:
Really cold and rainy today. Pool is really steaming with the cover off. Any harm in covering today while I'm slamming? Can. I just flip the cover off over the area I'm adding chlorine?
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You can cover the pool. It may retain CC, but not a big issue. Remove it when the sun comes out.
 
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Yeh, you may have a hidden algae farm somewhere. Think through anywhere it might be hiding. Also, any surface runoff from paved areas or the garden can contribute.

Another unique aspect for your SLAM is the cover. As my cover ages, I'll start to see green inside the bubbles, especially around the edges. It's really hard to get algae off a cover as it gets old. If the cover is fairly new, some people have taken it off, flipped it upside down, and washed it with a mild bleach solution, say, one part pool chlorine to 4 parts water, plus a stable broom to move it around, then rinsed off. Requires a paved driveway, or quiet (and friendly) cul-de-sac, and some old clothing!

Another factor is that the chlorine is slowly oxidising the plastic the cover is made from. At higher chlorine levels, this will happen a tad faster.

You can find out by choosing a time that you won't mind the overnight heat loss, and leaving the cover off and performing your OCLT.
 
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