VS Motor Swap

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R

Rodex

Gold Supporter
Jun 2, 2019
340
Mansfield, TX
Pool Size
11000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool Edge-25
Well I was going to wait a few more weeks before I started looking at a VS motor replacement for my pump but overnight my Jandy Stealth 1.5HP motor started a horrendous death rattle.

Are there any particular brands anyone strongly suggests?
 

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Your Stealth pump, after examining the service factor, is actually a 2.25 total horsepower pump. That means that, if you use your existing impeller, you will overload the V-Green 165, which is a 1.65 total horsepower motor. And yes, that .6hp difference will cause you issues if you don't change the impeller. The motor is very good. I have installed many and they will work with a regular time clock if it is set properly. You may have trouble finding a 1hp impeller for your Stealth pump.

The Federal law that went into effect last July has changed the way pumps and motors are labeled to eliminate the confusion over service-factor horsepower ratings.
 
V-Green 2.7 = 2.7 total horsepower
V-Green 165 = 1.65 total horsepower
V-Green 085 = .85 total horsepower

The 2.7 has a totally different interface from the other two and can't be used with a time clock. It does have an auxiliary output capability to control a booster pump needed.
 
1poolman1 said:
V-Green 2.7 = 2.7 total horsepower
V-Green 165 = 1.65 total horsepower
V-Green 085 = .85 total horsepower

The 2.7 has a totally different interface from the other two and can't be used with a time clock. It does have an auxiliary output capability to control a booster pump needed.
Click to expand...
Can’t be used with a time clock interface or even a mechanical time switch? Mine has the latter right now but I was definitely going to want to redo the whole setup and automate a bit.

I don’t need a booster pump, I don’t think.
 
Rodex said:
Nice, thanks. It looks like the 48Y frame is compatible with the 56Y just doing a quick search but if anyone has any experience with the true compatibility, I’m all ears!
Click to expand...
The 56 is just a larger diameter motor. Your original motor is 56 frame. The V-green motors, though 48 frame, will work, I have installed at least 30 over the past few years. There should be a rubber spacer in the box with the motor that takes up the space to support the back-end of the smaller, 48 frame, motor. The Y is the type of end that bolts to the wet-end. Don't worry about the first Y in the motor listing. Its good that you noticed the type of motor as Jandy also used C-Frame motors on some of their pumps. You can use the 2.7 and will not need to change impellers nor use a time clock.
 
Rodex said:
Can’t be used with a time clock interface or even a mechanical time switch? Mine has the latter right now but I was definitely going to want to redo the whole setup and automate a bit.

I don’t need a booster pump, I don’t think.
Click to expand...
No, your setup does not need a booster pump. Not sure what type automation you are planning. There is a way of having a 2.7 work with any of the brands available by using the V-Green automation adapter.
 

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1poolman1 said:
No, your setup does not need a booster pump. Not sure what type automation you are planning. There is a way of having a 2.7 work with any of the brands available by using the V-Green automation adapter.
Click to expand...
There was a DIY setup I saw here last year that was in my wheelhouse. I think they used a VGreen motor as well, probably with that automation adapter. I’m looking at adding that pH/ORP/temp probe from Atlas.
 
I am going to order one of these Vgreens anyways, but now I am wondering if I should confirm that this awful sound isn’t the impeller…
 
Finally got this in and installed. Seems to be pumping okay. Is it normal for the pressure to be very low (5psi vs our usual starting 12psi)?
 
mknauss said:
What rpm are you running at?
Click to expand...
I was at 2850, cranked it up all the way and the pressure is at 11psi. Seems close enough!

I’m definitely losing prime somewhere though, as several leaks have developed - my Edge SWCG that I seem to have monthly problems with, and my backwash valve.
 
Both of those items on the pressure side.

I suspect you can run the pump at 1200 rpm or so (if you got the 2.7 hp motor) to close the flow switch on the SWCG.
 
mknauss said:
Both of those items on the pressure side.

I suspect you can run the pump at 1200 rpm or so (if you got the 2.7 hp motor) to close the flow switch on the SWCG.
Click to expand...
I got the 1.65 Hp motor after talking to Inyo about it. The flow sensor seems to engage at 850rpm. Should I keep it at 1100-1350?
 
Interesting that the flow switch is that sensitive. I would suggest staying at 1000 rpm or so. See how that skims the pool surface.
 
mknauss said:
Interesting that the flow switch is that sensitive. I would suggest staying at 1000 rpm or so. See how that skims the pool surface.
Click to expand...
Lots of bubbles at that speed. There is a big air gap in the pump lid and the SWCG plates aren’t covered - is that an issue?
 

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